Tirta Gangga

The Water Palace

Tirta Gangga is a village in East Bali.

Understand

Tirta Gangga literally means water from the Ganges and it is a site of some reverance for the Hindu Balinese. Strictly, the name refers to the water palace built here in 1946 by the King of Karangasem. It is though widely used to refer to the general area which includes the water palace and some particularly stunning rural areas around.

Get in

Tirta Gannga is a popular side trip from the nearby coastal resort towns of Amed and Candidasa. Organised tours are widely offered.

Public buses run from nearby Karangasem town and Perama [3] buses can be chartered from Candidasa.

If you are driving yourself, Tirta Gangga is on the main east coast road just north of the town of Karangasem (Amlapura) and is fairly well signposted.

Get around

This is a great area of Bali in which to walk with many small roads and paths to explore.

See

The primary draw in this area for visitors is the Tirta Gangga water palace, a lovely maze of pools and fountains surround by a lush garden and stone carvings and statues. The one hectare complex was built in 1946 by the late King of Karangsem but was destroyed almost entirely by the eruption of nearby Mount Agung in 1963. It has been lovingly re-built and restored and has an air of authentic royal magnificence.

The centrepiece of the palace is an eleven tiered fountain and there are many beautiful carvings and statues adorning the gardens. This is a great spot to unwind and it has a real atmosphere of old Bali. You can bathe in the pools for a small charge which is additional to the Rp 6,000 entrance fee.

Rice paddies north of Tirta Gangga

The area around Tirta Gangga holds some stunning rice paddy terraces. Those postcard pictures of Bali rice terraces which you have all seen are usually from photographs taken here.

Lempuyang Temple (Pura Lempuyang Luhur) is about 10 km east of Tirtagangga on the slopes of Mount Lempuyang. This is one of the key nine directional temples on the island. Park in the car park and walk up the steps to the temple. The lower temple is always open but the upper temple (at the top of the dragon staircases) is often locked, so it is best to go with a Balinese driver who will usually be able to arrange for the temple priest to open it up for you. It's situated high up a mountain and there are magnificent sunset views at dusk.

Taman Ujung. South-east of Karangasem (Amlapura) is another water palace built by the predecessor of the King who constructed Tirta Gangga. It must be said that it is rather inferior but still a charming attraction and worth a visit. Taman Ujung was built in 1909 as a relaxation and recreation palace by the then King of Karangasem, I Gusti Bagus Jelantik. It was largely destroyed by the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963, damaged again by an earthquake in 1979 and has not been restored on the same scale as Tirta Gangga. You do get a sense of how lovely it must have been though. From Tirta Gangga, head back south to Karangasem and then take the minor road south east to the village of Ujung. Taman Ujung is another 2 km past the village, very close to the coast. If you are staying in Tirta Gangga or Candidasa, you will certainly be offered tours which include Taman Ujung.

Do

Tirta Gangga Water Palace

• This is a great trekking area with some of the best walks in Bali to suit all levels of fitness. Guides can be arranged easily at the water palace or from your hotel. The areas around Selat and Sideman (off the main Karangasem to Rendang road) are especially good. A good stating point for trekking information and for finding a knowledgeable guide is the Genta Bali restaurant at the water palace.

• Bathe in the pools at Tirta Gangga.

• Take photos. Almost every twist and turn you make in this area presents yet another photo opportunity. The terraced rice paddies and other landscapes are especially attractive but do not neglect the water palace itself.

Buy

There are many souvenir shops and stalls at the entrance of the water palace.

Eat

Good Karma is a great value, long-established restaurant above the main car park of the water palace.

Tirta Ayu inside the water palace is a good quality restaurant with a superb aspect looking out over the pools and gardens.

Sleep

There are several budget accommodation options alongside the main road both south and north of Tirta Gangga. Look for the signs.

• Cabe Bali, Temega village (about 1.5 km south of the water palace), ☎ +62 363 22045, [1]. Delightful bungalows in a very rural Balinese setting. Great gardens and a public swimming pool. German owned and managed. From Rp 700,000.

• Dhangin Taman Inn, (right by the entrance to the water palace), ☎ +62 363 22059. Basic rooms aimed at the budget traveller. From Rp 90,000.

• Kusama Jaya Inn, ☎ +62 363 21250. Budget acommodation just to the north of the water palace. From Rp 90,000.

• The Villas at Tirtagangga, Tirtagangga, ☎ +62 363 21383, [2]. Three different private villas adjoining the Water Palace. The largest of them, Villa Tirta Ayu, incorporates the former King of Karangasem's personal chambers. From US$ 120 to US$ 400.

Get out

The popular coastal resort towns of Candidasa and Amed are easily reached in about 20 minutes from here.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!