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Pontevedra (city)

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==Sleep==
 
==Sleep==
 
* Hotel Residencial Mexico - Andrés Murvais, 10 - Tel: 986-845-939 - Reasonably priced and near the old town.
 
* Hotel Residencial Mexico - Andrés Murvais, 10 - Tel: 986-845-939 - Reasonably priced and near the old town.
* Parador Nacional Casa del Barón - Barón, 19 - Tel: 986-855-800 - Part of the national system of Paradors, this is a restored baronial palace.  Although it certainly falls in the "splurge" category (we only stayed there one night), it was a delightful experience (period furniture, wooden floors, etc.) that my children and I will never forget.
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* Parador Nacional Casa del Barón - Barón, 19 - Tel: 986-855-800 - Right in the historic district and part of the national system of Paradors, this is a restored baronial palace.  Although it certainly falls in the "splurge" category (we only stayed there one night), it was a delightful experience (period furniture, wooden floors, etc.) that my children and I will never forget.
 
* Hotel Galicia Palace - Avenida de Vigo, 3 - Tel: 986-864-411
 
* Hotel Galicia Palace - Avenida de Vigo, 3 - Tel: 986-864-411
 
* Hotel Rias Bajas - Daniel de la Sota, 7 - Tel: 986-855-100
 
* Hotel Rias Bajas - Daniel de la Sota, 7 - Tel: 986-855-100

Revision as of 17:07, 17 April 2008

Pontevedra is the capital city of the province of the same name, one of four that make up Galicia, an autonomous community within Spain.

Understand

Geography

Although Vigo, in the Southeastern corner of the province, is a far larger city, Pontevedra is beautifully picturesque and unsurpassed in the province for its historical and artistic importance. The Rias Bajas (Rias Baixas) coastal region has an abundance of natural beauty (mountains, green hills, rivers, lakes, estuaries, and seashores). The old city center is well preserved and contains numerous historic buildings and monuments. Pontevedra is proud of its cultural and natural heritage.

The city itself is built on a hill, with some streets sloping down toward the Lérez River. The majority of the town occupies the south bank of the river, although it has spread out in all directions in recent years.

Language

Both Galician (Galego) and Spanish are commonly spoken, but signage is increasingly in the local language. Galego shares characteristics of Portuguese and French, as well as Spanish, and anyone conversant in the Romance languages shouldn't have a hard time understanding written Galician.

Climate

The climate is mild and rainy year round, with the humidity that one would expect of a coastal area receiving significant precipitation. While summer is the "high season" for tourists, pleasant weather is to be had throughout the year.

History

Archeological evidence shows that the town existed as far back as Roman times. The city took its name from the nearby bridge, "Pontus Veteri" (Old Bridge). From the Middle Ages through the end of the 16th century, the city was one of the main ports and most populous cities in Galicia, though it afterwards declined first due to the disappearance the Castillian Crown, then later because of successive wars. During the 19th century the Spanish provinces were created and Pontevedra was designed as a provincial capital, bringing new institutions, industries, and population to the city.

Until the Spanish Civil War, Pontevedra was a social and cultural center, but after the war, as power was centralized in Madrid, industry migrated to Vigo because of the excellent port facilities. Pontevedra is currently undergoing a cultural renaissance, and its population is increasing due to the urbanization of the province.

Get In

By Train

RENFE Trains run daily back and forth from Madrid and Barcelona, but trains to/from Leon depart from nearby Vigo. You can find the train station on Rúa da Estación, Tel: (0034) 986 851 313.

By Bus

Bus service is common to/from many destinations in Spain, Portugal, and beyond. The bus station is located on Rúa da Estación, Tel: (0034) 986 852 408.

By Air

Peinador Airport (Vigo) and Lavacolla Airport (Santiago de Compostela) are only about 30-40 minutes from Pontevedra via the Atlantico highway (AP-9). Flights from those cities connect to Madrid, as well as other cities in Spain and Europe (London, Paris, Geneva, and Frankfurt).

Get Around

The city is ideally sized for walking, and nearly all of the items of historical/artistic interest are within easy walking distance of the city center, right in front of the Capilla de la Peregrina. Local buses are available and reasonably priced, and taxis are plentiful. Fares are typically small because distances are not large.

Car Rentals (unnecessary in the city, but may be useful to tour the countryside):

  • Avis (c/Peregrina, 49) [1] - Tel.: 986852025 - Fax: 986855992
  • Europcar (railway station or c/Calvo Sotelo) [2] - Tel: 986853150 - Fax: 986864198
  • National Atesa (bus station or c/Calvo Sotelo) [3] - Tel: 986844012

See

The old city, located at the top of modern Pontevedra, contains several worthwhile sites.

La Capilla de la Peregrina: very ornate old chapel, whose bells chime the hours.

La Basílica de Santa María

La Iglesia de Santo Domingo: medieval ruins.

Public Square: Where everyone goes to stroll in the evenings. When the weather is cold, nothing beats stopping at a street vendor for a packet of fresh roasted chestnuts.

La Alameda: public park, beautiful at sundown, you can see the sun setting out across out to the ocean. Monument. Small zoo.

The farmers' market by the river: stop and get some "queso galego" and "pan galego."

Rias Baixas Tourism Board [4]

Do

Festivals

  • Festa da Romería de San Benitiño de Lérez: The date varies from year to year, but this summertime celebrattion takes place on the outskirts of Pontevedra. St Benedict is one of the most venerated saints in Galicia, and this devotion dates back to the late Middle Age. Lérez is a old Benedictine monastery, a sanctuary located on the Lerez riverbank where a small image of the saint is venerated.
  • Carnival: Since 1876, Pontevedra's citizens celebrate the reign and death of King Urco. Nowdays, Carnival takes places in the streets, and features street bands and fancy dresses (costumes).
  • Festa da Virxe do O: December 18th is the festival of this patron saint of the city.
  • Festa da Peregrina: On the weekend of the second Sunday in August, this festival starts with a floral tribute to the "Virxe da Peregrina" (Virgin of the Pilgrim), whose shrine stands in the center of the old town. It includes fireworks (weather permitting), bullfights, a marathon, a regatta, bands, and artistic displays. This also coincides with the Honey Festival (held in Verdura Square).
  • Autumn Festival: For one weekend in mid November, Plaza da Perdura is the venue for this cultural and commercial festival, bringing people to Pontevedra's historic centre to celebrate typical autumn produce like mushrooms, nuts, and legumes. Also on hand are several magostos (traditional chestnut festivals), folk games, and musical performances. Nearby restaurants offer typical autumn dishes to celebrate the festival.
  • Feira Franca (Medieval Fair): Held the first weekend in September, it celebrates the open market held in Pontevedra starting in 1467, a privilege granted by King Enrique IV, and originally lasted a month (15 days before the Festival of San Bartolomé and 15 days afterwards). This celebration commemorates Pontevedra's era of greatest influence and prosperity, from the middle of the fifteenth century through the end of the sixteenth century. Food, recreation, and history all abound, and include music, drama, and historic costumes.
  • Festa do Caldo Galego: On the second Sunday in March, this local dish is celebrated with its own festival. The stew is served in clay dishes, and the celebration includes a Caldo Galego contest. In an effort to preserve traditional recipes, including varieties which use squash, onions, rice, and chestnuts, each contestant much submit the list of ingredients. Entrants are divided into two categories: meat-based and vegetarian.
  • Festa dos Maios (Mayfest): On the first Sunday in May, this festival celebrates Galicia's Celtic roots. This includes a contest for the best "maio" (a conical construction covered with branches and flowers, around which a group of children dance in a ring and sing while beating sticks to mark time. The child with the best voice sings under the "maio."
  • Festa da Anguia: In late June, the Parrish of Pontesampaio hosts this celebration of various dishes prepared using eels.
  • Festa do Demo: In late August is the Festival of the Devil, celebrating the symbolic struggle of good against evil. The "devil" chases the children with his pitchfork, then they get to play traditional games in the town square.
  • Festa de Santiaguiño do Burgo: In late July, this festival ostensibly venerates the Apostle James, but includes food and sporting events in addition to its religious component. It includes the “Santiago Peregrino” marathon and fireworks. It is also held in conjunction with the traditional "Homage to Senior Citizens" celebration.
  • Festa de San Sebastián: Honoring another patrón saint of the city, this occurs on January 20th.

Buy

Eat

Find pulperías in the back streets and sample the octopus. It's delicious--and generally far cheaper than elsewhere in Spain. Pulpo a la Gallega is a wonderful dish of squid served on a bed of boiled potatoes, sprayed with olive oil and paprika. Like so much Spanish food it sounds ridiculously simple and is stunningly delicious

Galician gastronomy includes a wide variety of foods. Galician stew (caldo gallego) can be made with sausage (chorizo), ham, beef, or chicken, and contains chickpeas garbanzos), potatoes, cabbage, and other leafy vegetables. "Lacón con grelos" is very common all over the region: pork cooked with turnip, potatoes and chorizo. Both are typical winter dishes. Although fabada, made from fabas (large white beans), smoked morcilla (blood sausage), chorizo, and manteca (lard) is usually considered Asturian food, some excellent versions can also be found in Galicia.

Being so close to the sea, Galician cooking has plenty of seafood, including recipes for hake, turbot, sole, grouper and sea bass, squid, octopus, mussels, and velvet swimming crabs. And the list goes on: clams and oysters, spiny lobsters, European lobsters, triple-grooved shrimp, and scallops.

“Empanadas” are also popular: a flaky pastry stuffed with any of a variety of fillings, including ham, chicken, chorizo, potatoes and other vegetables, cheese, and olives.

Some typical desserts are: Santiago Tart (almond-based) and “filloas”, thin pancakes made from wheat. One of the best ways to end a walking tour is to stop in a pastelería and pick up a treat or two.

Drink

Galician wines have become much better known recently. In the back street pubs it is often served in a bowl, and you can pick the size bowl you want.

Sleep

  • Hotel Residencial Mexico - Andrés Murvais, 10 - Tel: 986-845-939 - Reasonably priced and near the old town.
  • Parador Nacional Casa del Barón - Barón, 19 - Tel: 986-855-800 - Right in the historic district and part of the national system of Paradors, this is a restored baronial palace. Although it certainly falls in the "splurge" category (we only stayed there one night), it was a delightful experience (period furniture, wooden floors, etc.) that my children and I will never forget.
  • Hotel Galicia Palace - Avenida de Vigo, 3 - Tel: 986-864-411
  • Hotel Rias Bajas - Daniel de la Sota, 7 - Tel: 986-855-100

Contact

  • Police Telephone: (0034) 986 833 080
  • Ambulance Telephone: (0034) 986 850 823

Get out

  • Take a bus along the south side of the Ria de Pontevedra as far as Combarro. You will need to ask somebody to tell you when to get off.

Stay Safe

Pontevedra is generally a very safe city. However, as with nearly everywhere in Europe, be aware of pickpockets, who may work in groups to jostle or bump you while a confederate lifts your wallet. Carrying a photocopy of your passport and only the amount of money necessary for the day's purchases is always sound advice.




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