== Stay safe ==
== Stay safe ==
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Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. In
the old days it was a rather dangerous place, but nowadays it's a fairly safe city, at least during daylight hours. |+|
Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. In , but 's .
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|−|More of an annoyance than a danger, Cambodia's omnipresent touts, moto and tuk tuk drivers are probably the most aggressive in Southeast Asia; the harassment is constant. | |
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|−|In terms of actual danger, although things have changed a lot, there are still more bad guys with guns than in some Asian cities. Official figures (almost certainly underestimates) report an average of 50 incidents per month (Cambodians and foreigners), leading to 5 deaths and 10 serious injuries. Most commonly Cambodians are victimised for their cell phones or motorbikes. |+|
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|−|In early 2008 The Phnom Penh Post reported - and many foreign residents attested to - a large upsurge in bag-snatching. The victims are most often foreign females riding in tuk tuks or on motorbikes (either as passengers or drivers ). These incidents are sometimes ultra-violent, with women dragged off moving motorbikes and thrown to the road. In early 2008 a young French woman was killed in one of these attacks. |+|
and tuk drivers are the in .
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|−|If you must carry a bag, keep it on the side facing away from the street or, when using motodops put it between you and the driver. Bag-snatching is a particular problem outside popular expat hang-outs (e.g. Elsewhere) on weekend nights. Some moto-dop drivers may be in league with the thieves. Moto drivers who work the riverside are generally quite reliable. | |
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|−|Avoid walking in quiet areas at night, try to find a dependable tuk tuk driver, and don' t carry unnecessary valuables or cash. |+|
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|−|Most girlie bars catering to foreigners are in the cross-streets going back off the river, and there are dozens. Freelance girls are picked up at clubs like Heart of Darkness and Martini Bar. Thus a third Phnom Penh danger is HIV, which surveys reveal is carried by about one-quarter of Cambodia's female sex workers. Additionally, certain high-risk sexual behaviours are emerging in recent Cambodian population studies: nearly 100% of men who have sex with men ( MSM) also have sex with women; a new class of 'hidden' sex workers, such as beer girls and park-based prostitutes, is often out of reach of educators; there is very low condom-use among 'sweethearts', and people often have multiple sweethearts in one year; male clients persuade or force prostitutes not to wear condoms. (This happens to 67% of Cambodian prostitutes every week.) NGOs have got the HIV rate down from around 2% to around 1% over the past decade. But it's possible these emerging behaviours will cause that to reverse. If you engage in paid sex, use a condom - with water-based lubricant if needed - without fail. Have the necessaries ready in your room (or pocket) before you embark on a night out drinking. |+|
are in . () of and , and or . in , a or .
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Having said all that, the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is none of
these things: it is getting hit by a motorbike - or thrown off one - in the city's diabolically unpredictable traffic. Cambodia has arguably the worst drivers in Southeast Asia. Although traffic tends to be slower than Bangkok's and less dense than Saigon's, it is literally all over the road: two streams going in each direction at any one time; plus endless switching from one stream to the other. Thus crossing the road is dangerous - constant 360 degree vigilance is essential ; being on a motorbike, back or front, is asking for trouble. |+|
Having said all that, the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is none of : it is getting hit by a motorbike - or thrown off one - in the city's diabolically unpredictable traffic.
Cambodia has arguably the worst drivers in Southeast Asia. Although traffic tends to be slower than Bangkok's and less dense than Saigon's, it is literally all over the road: two streams going in each direction at any one time; plus endless switching from one stream to the other.
the road is dangerous360 degree vigilance is essentialon a motorbike, back or front, is asking for trouble.
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== Cope ==
== Cope ==
Revision as of 13:40, 7 April 2008
Phnom Penh is the capital and largest city of Cambodia, located at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap rivers. Despite its reputation as a 'rough' city, Phnom Penh is easy to get around and is a great introduction to Cambodia.
For western visitors, even those who have visited other Asian cities, Phnom Penh can be a bit of a shock. It can be very hot and (in the dry season) dusty, its infrastructure is lacking, and it is very poor - much poorer than, for example, Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), and Manila. Visitors who cannot adjust to rubbish filled streets, constant harassment from tuk tuk drivers and touts, and large numbers of beggars, may not enjoy the city.
But things are changing, and Phnom Penh is becoming more pleasant and relaxed, especially over the past four or so years. It is striving to architecturally become more of a 'developed capital', including highrise buildings, while still retaining much of the beauty that made it a Paris of the east before 1970. The city's French colonial buildings are beautiful, so its streetscapes make for a pleasant contrast to the concrete ugliness of Thai cities.
The infrastructure is improving rapidly - fewer power outages, streets are paved, rubbish is collected more frequently. Beautiful wide boulevards, fine colonial architecture and a parklike riverfront with cafés and restaurants aplenty help make Phnom Penh a worthwhile destination. Not necessarily for its standard tourist sights, which are few. But as a place to relax, watch the streetlife and absorb local color Phnom Penh rates very high among Asian cities. The beggars are still there, along with a great number of street kids and kids selling tourist paraphernalia, but this is most visible in heavily touristed areas. And generally the kids are less aggressive than say their Indian or Vietnamese counterparts; though the tuk tuk and moto drivers clap, shout, wave and whistle for your attention in most parts of the city including its back streets, and are not above some hot pursuit when ignored.
Those who find themselves struggling with Phnom Penh's current state should recall the terrible times the city has been through in recent decades. In 1975 it was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then U.S.-backed government and the Khmer Rouge, and after it fell to the Khmer Rouge, it was completely emptied of civilians and allowed to crumble for the next four years. Most of the already small class of skilled professionals were murdered or driven into exile. The city fell to the Vietnamese Army in 1979, but the new Cambodian government had no money to spend on urban improvement until the peace settlement of 1992.
As Cambodia's economy has recovered a smallish new rich class has arisen in Phnom Penh, and a crop of new hotels and restaurants has opened to accommodate them and the tourist trade; there is now a large gulf between the extremely rich and the extremely poor, largely due to the nation's top-to-bottom corruption.
Take a trip to the green-domed Sorya mall and you're transported to the consumerist world to which the emerging middle and upper classes aspire.
All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered, although some major thoroughfares have names as well. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north-south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbers run west-east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g. the west side of the Boeung Kak lake).
House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially in a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number in the same street.
See Cambodia | Get in for general information on getting into the country.
See Cambodia | Get in | Visas for detailed visa information.
Domestic flights: US$6
International flights: US$25
Both must be paid in US dollars cash. In theory, you can pay by credit card, but the option is usually unavailable.
Phnom Penh International Airport (IATA: PNH | ICAO: VDPP) is the largest of Cambodia's two international airports (the other is at Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor Wat). There are daily flights from all major regional airports (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Taipei, Luang Prabang in Laos, and Hanoi via Vientiane, Laos). Airlines include Bangkok Airways, Vietnam Airlines, Lao Airlines, Shanghai Airlines, Thai Airways, Silk Air, Dragon Air, amongst others. The Malaysian low-cost carrier Air Asia has daily flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. The new terminal is a thoroughly pleasant and modern facility, and features a post office, bank (including ATMs), restaurants, duty-free shop, newsstand, tourist help desk, and business center.
The airport is about 11 km from the city centre. Taxis from the public taxi stand at the airport cost a flat US$9. Pay the fare at the taxi desk inside the door exiting the terminal, at which point you will be allocated a driver. For visitors on a budget without a lot of luggage, it's worth catching an official motocycle taxi for some US$2. Alternatively you can walk out to the main road and get a Tuk Tuk for about $5.
There are bus services to Phnom Penh from Poipet (on the border with Thailand) and from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam (US$8-10, 5-6 hours), as well as from points throughout Cambodia. Two of the largest bus companies, Sorya (formerly Ho Wah Genting) and GST, both arrive and depart from the rather chaotic "station" at the southwest corner of the Central Market. Capitol Tours runs buses throughout Cambodia and onward to Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, where they link up with Vietnam travel giant Sinh Cafe. Advance bookings are advisable, and can also be sorted out by most travel agents and guesthouses for a token fee.
Many travellers arriving from Thailand break their journey with a detour to Siem Reap, site of the ruins of Angkor. Most buses depart from/to Siem Reap in the early morning, a few more follow around noon; the journey takes about 5 hours. There are also frequent services to Sihanoukville. Basic air-con bus fares start around US$3-4; double-deckers with comfy seats, toilets, drink, food and bus-hostess charge up to US$10.
Ferries connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and usually take 4-5 hours; tickets for foreigners typically cost US$20-30. Many (but not all) of these ferries offer the option of sitting on the roof, which makes for a much more scenic, albeit less comfortable ride than the bus; take sunblock, a hat, and enough water to last you for several hours just in case the boat gets stuck.
Fast boats leave every morning around 8am from Chau Doc in Vietnam's Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. The boats make the return journey the same day and leave Phnom Penh around 1 PM arriving in Chau Doc in the early evening.
There is a very slow, once-weekly passenger train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.
- Phnom Penh to Battambang - Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
- Battambang to Phnom Penh - Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00
Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape; however other streets and footpaths are often rutted and pot-holed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motos, sleeping people, livestock and building materials. Many smaller streets either lack signage or bear misleading signs, however, Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating the city is not difficult if you know where you're going.
- Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) are available for rent, however Phnom Penh traffic is chaotic and dangerous even by Asian standards: public transport (other than motorbike taxis) is safer.
- Motorbike-taxis (motodops, motodups or simply motos in local parlance) are ubiquitous and will take you anywhere for a small fare. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel (50 US cents). Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger.
- Taxis are available at a few locations - most notably outside the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay. Taxis do not have meters, and fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary, due to fluctuating fuel prices; ask hotel/guesthouse staff for assistance (hotels and guesthouses will organise taxis on request).
- Tuk-tuks Cambodian-style consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a scenic experience of the city. Their clientele is exclusively tourists, and most drivers speak some English. A innercity trip costs maximum two dollars.
- Cyclos are three-wheeled cycle-rickshaws. Considerably slower then a motodop, and gradually becoming less common in the city, they are still popular with locals and foreigners alike. The nature of the seat lends itself to a quick and easy way to transport all manner of goods from one place to another, even other cyclos and the occasional motorbike as well.
- Walking can be a challenge, as cars and motos sometimes do not stop for pedestrians. To cross safely, judge gaps in the traffic and proceed with care - give oncoming vehicles ample time to see and avoid you, or try to cross with the brightly coloured and revered monks. On larger roads, two streams of traffic travel in each direction, totalling four streams of traffic you have to watch for: thus constant 360 surveillance is required when crossing roads. There is almost no street lighting off the major boulevards, and walking there at night is not recommended.
1. As a huge number of scarred or maimed locals can attest, motorbikes - either as rider or passenger - are the least safe alternative. On a motorbike you are exposed to the worst consequences of the city's bad drivers and appalling accident rate.
2. To obviate later disagreements, bargain a fare before you leave.
3. Tuk tuk and moto drivers sometimes tell passengers they know where a destination is when they don't - meaning you drive miles in the wrong direction, which in turn gives them an opportunity to hit you up for a higher fare. Sometimes the only English a driver knows is something like "Yes, no problem" - leading you to believe he knows where he is going when he does not. Most tuk tuk and moto drivers in Phnom Penh come from rural villages. Incredibly, some cannot find Sisowath Quay or Sihanouk Boulevard. (Roughly equivalent to a New York cabbie not knowing where Fifth Avenue is.) Notwithstanding, drivers are not above bluffing, or even a little bullying, to get you onboard. Make sure the driver genuinely knows where he is going before getting in/on.
4. Don't leave bags or other goods exposed to snatchers on motorbikes: such thefts from tuk tuks and motorbikes are now epidemic in Phnom Penh.
Sisowath Quay as seen from FCC
- Sisowath Quay (often known as Riverside) is an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap. It is normally fronted by a pleasant park, however this has been torn up for floodworks and re-landscaping for much of 2008. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is extremely popular with tourists and expat Westerners. The esplanade along the river is equally popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the Royal Palace (or rather, at the river-front park opposite the Palace), and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. See A Stroll on Sisowath Quay for a self-guided tour.
- The Royal Palace and the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed 11:00-14:00, when all sensible Cambodians take a nap. Entrance fee is US$6.25 (25000 riel) for both. No extra fee for camera. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts for a token 1000 riel (plus US$1 deposit) at the entrance.
- The National Museum (opposite the Royal Palace; admission US$3). Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. Main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in mediation pose. Unfortunately, no photos may be taken. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but alas (?), the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002.
- Wat Phnom (admission US$1) is on a hill at the center of a small park near Sisowath Quay, on St. 94. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than what you'll see there today, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you leave unattended. If you like, take a ride on the elephant there. His owner is kind of inventory of Wat Phnom and always nice to tourists.
- Independence and Liberation memorials - impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal.
- Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) (Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-300-698, fax 855-23-210-358)  was a school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields south of Phnom Penh; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs. For a introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's "Voices from S-21" (ISBN 0520222474). Documentary movie "S-21" can be purchased throughout Phnom Penh for US$1.50-2.
- The Documentation Center of Cambodia (66 Preah Sihanouk Blvd. P.O. Box 1110 Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-211-875, fax 855-23-210-358)  manages the museum as part of its mission to record the history of the Khmer Rouge, and gather evidence against Khmer Rouge leaders.
- The Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek (entrance fee US$2), about 17km south of Phnom Penh, is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place.
- Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump, where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over the refuse (which includes burning plastic and syringes) hoping to find anything of value. A certain type of tourist visits this place - if it's you, make sure you stop by the NGO "Pour sourire un enfant" , which helps the children of this place, and make a donation.
- Hash House Harriers running club meets every Sunday at 2.45pm at the railway station.
- Khmer massage, US$3 for 1 hour @ Apsara - 13 Ph. 63 (0900-2100hrs, 7 days a week). Tel: 092 294 024. Beware: although the price had an official quote in English, you may have to bargain to get the real price. Offers the local Khmer massage - a relaxing form distantly related to Thai massage. The massage environment is extremely cosy and you will even get a free platter of fruit after your massage is over.
- Lighthouse Orphanage, Around 25 minutes from the center of Phnom Penh lies this small orphanage housing 70-80 Khmers aged from 1 year through to 18 years. Visitors are always extremely welcome at this completely independent organisation - expect to be greeted with smiles and handshakes from staff, quickly followed by a tour. However one should take some form of donation, ideally a bag of rice (ie. 50kg). (Sweets are not allowed.) If using a Tuk Tuk to get out there, the driver will be more than happy to show you something to pick up along the way. The children at Lighthouse love nothing more to have a chat and practice their english/french/japanese with you, have a game of soccer, or even just pose for a few photos.
- Mekong Cruises - boats leave every evening for a river cruise. Many provide snacks or dinners at sunset.
- Mekong Island - a nice trip across Phnom Penh to enjoy rural life and see weaving households in a rural area.
- Meta House art gallery - also shows films every weekend. N° 6, Phuong (St. 264), opposite Wat Botum.
- Thunder Ranch shooting range, near Cheoung Ek. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious to the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is probably no longer the case. Prices range from US$30 for an AK-47 to US$200 for a rocket launcher.
As elsewhere in Cambodia, transactions are made in US dollars and in Cambodian riel, and only upmarket places will accept plastic (normally with a 3 percent surcharge). Take lots of low denomination US notes - notes above US$20 can be difficult to change. In place of coins you will get back riel, at a set exchange rate of 4000 to the dollar. There are a number of international ATM machines dispensing US currency around the city, including the Sisowath Quay tourist strip and in Sorya Market. They also work with international maestro cards. You can change USD into smaller denominations at the currency booths along the footpath on Sisowath.
Popular tourist buys include Cambodian silk, local silverware, traditional handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes.
The Art Deco dome of the Central Market
- Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei - "New Market") is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. Sorya Mall, currently Phnom Penh's main Western-style mall, is nearby - less colourful that the traditional markets, but it is air-conditioned and contains a range of cheap fast-food outlets as well as a well-stocked supermarket named Lucky Supermarket. If looking for Sorya, go SOUTH of the Central Market. It's on a north-south street on the west side. Asking anyone in the Central Market will be futile, however they DO understand "Sorya".
- Russian Market (Cambodian "Psar Toul Tom Poung" - it gained the "Russian Market" moniker following the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s, but many motodops are not familiar with the name) offers the opportunity to buy fake designer clothing, fake swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.
Street 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.
- Colours of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Handicrafts from around the country.
- Kravan House, #13 St. 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.
- Stef's Happy Painting, Sisowath Quay (near St. 178, directly under FCC), . Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions.
Antiques dealers in Phnom Penh are an unscrupulous lot and may sell goods that theoretically should not be exported from Cambodia. See Heritage Watch  for listings of bad apples. For better or worse, however, most of the "antiques" being sold are fake.
- Hidden Treasures, #9 Street 148, has antiques, art and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby South-East Asian cultures.
- Monument Books,  #111 Norodom Boulevard (near Independence Monument), has a focus on books about and from Cambodia, like Angkor Wat, Khmer Rouge Regime, Cambodia history in many languages. They support cambodian publishers.
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats you won't find elsewhere in the country. Many of these include French-influenced dining as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and modern takes on traditional Cambodian dishes. The standard pizza-banana pancake-fried rice backpacker fare is also always easy to find.
The best area to wander is along the riverfront where everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros can be found. Take great care eating from stalls, however. Peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked should be regarded with suspicion.
Take the cross river ferry to sit on mats and eat cheap hawker food while watching the sunset over the city.
- Chenla Restaurant, #13 Street 278, is a non-profit restaurant which employs poor students from the Phnom Penh area. Great Cambodian mains from US$2-3 and large fruit shakes for less than US$1. Go for a meal and enjoy the after dinner conversation with the enthusiastic servers who like to practice their english!
- California 2 Cafe and Guesthouse  317 Sisowath on the riverfront is where expats and travellers cross paths. Here information is king. Local free travel guides and magazines are available for tourist. Ice cold beer is the cheapest on the riverfront, and the none of the menu items exceed five dollars. Specialty Baja Fish Tacos. 7AM-ish to 10:30PM.
- Home Away From Home, Street 93, is a small family run restaurant. Dishes are around US$2-3 and service is very friendly, but you may have to be patient if a bunch of people just ordered before you.
- Jungle Bar and Grill , 273B Sisowath Quay, next to Riverside Bistro, has a varied international menu at very reasonable prices and a great happy hour. Free Internet and a great music selection.
- La Croisette, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 144, is a French sidewalk café that's open all day.
- Setsara Thai Restaurant, #3D Street 278, is a very nice little Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.
- Bali Café, 379 Sisowath Quay, has pretty good Indonesian food, along with Asian/Thai/Khmer and Western fare. Try the Tahu Telur (fried tofu with eggs). Be careful ordering water or you'll get the small plastic bottle of Evian - at US$3!
- Cafe Yejj, #170 Street 450, offers sidewalk seating and indoor seating both ground level and second floor. Reasonably-priced pasta, panini, burritos and local (Cambodian food). Particiaptes in breaking the cycle of poverty by training women-at-risk as employees. Service very good. VERY clean bathroom upstairs. Most dishes less than US$4.00. Located at the southeast corner of the Russian Market, less than 50 feet east of the corner of Streets 155 & 450. Sit inside if you do not want to be bothered by beggars. (October 2007)
- Equinox  on Street 278 (near Street 51) has now opened a pretty good restaurant. Pizzas, baguettes, burgers, pastas and some more western specialities on the menu. Great indoor outdoor ambiance. Meat and salads come from a local organization who encourage and teach farmers in organic growing methods.
- Friends Restaurant, #215 Street 13 (50m north of the National Museum) is run by and for a non-profit that rehabilitates Cambodia's street children, and does delicious international tapas and main dishes.
- Frizz restaurant, #67, Street 240  has traditional Cambodian cuisine, and also operates the Cambodia Cooking Class .
- Garden Center Café, #23 Street 57  is a garden setting café/restaurant that's popular with local ex-pats.
- Khmer Surin, #11 Street 57 (south of Sihanouk Boulevard) is a rather romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.
- Lazy Gecko, #23B Street 93, Boeung Kak Lake, does a REALLY good hamburger, and a percentage of their profits go to Janine's Childrens Orphanage.
- Le Duo, Street 322 (between Monivong and Street 63) has excellent Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pastas and pizzas.
- Metro Café, on the corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 148 (opposite Riverside Bistro), is a stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from US$1 and a great steak (about US$12).
- Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel) tel 023 990 373; is pleasant and has fun and refreshing Bubble Tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.
- Riverside Bistro, #273a Sisowath Quay  occupies an old colonial style building and features comfortable outdoor dining with brilliant views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists and local affluent Khmers. Try Khmer's "root of lotus".
- 102, 1A, St. 102 (one block south of Le Royal), tel. 023-990-880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations recommended. US$30.
- FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club), 363 Sisowath Quay. Modern colonial-style charm, superb views of the river and is a favourite expat hang-out that does particularly good desserts. Their signature cocktails, Tonle Sap Breezer and Burmese Rum Sour (US$4.50 each), are also worth a quaff.
- Le Bistrot, #4D, Street 29 - French and Italian in an old villa.
- Xiang Palace (Hotel Intercontinental) Chinese - expensive fine dining, dim sum.
Most of the time, Phnom Penh bars and clubs are safe enough and a lot of fun - however, some of the more "hip" places are popular with the notorious local "elite" youth (and their minders) who carry firearms and other weapons, and who are allowed to pass through so-called "security" checks without being searched.
Places to hang out after dark include Street 104, Street 278, and Street 108 around the Street 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses.
- UpDownbar, Located on Street 136, across the famous 136 bar. Relaxed atmosphere, with a bar upstairs and groundfloor.
- Barbados, south of Street 104 near the river, is a hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.
- Broken Bricks, on Street 130 between Sharky Bar and the riverside, is a great expatriate/English teacher bar with the most amazingly unique decor you'll ever see. Set in an old French colonial edifice, Broken Bricks has become an increasingly popular place to meet and chat for expats and tourists alike. Don't go there if you are looking for "hostesses"and disco music;do go if you are looking for good, informal chat, regular specials on good, strong drinks and the best rock MP3 jukebox in the country.
- California 2 Cafe and Guesthouse  317 Sisowath on the riverfront is where expats and travellers cross paths. Here information is king. Local free travel guides and magazines are available for tourist. Travelling off the beaten path, Jim the owner or many of his motorcyling enthusiast visitors have covered the country corner to corner. Ice cold beer is the cheapest on the riverfront but it closes at 10:30PM.
- DV8 Bar & Guesthouse  on Street 148 (near the riverfront) is a popular hostess bar with a good selection of spirits and a pool table on the 2nd floor - great if you're a single guy. Good accommodation on the premises.
- Elephant Bar, Raffles Le Royal. The classy bar at the classiest hotel in town, with frescos on the ceiling and live piano in the evenings. Try the Femme Fatale, a mix of cognac and champagne dreamed up for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967. Expensive.
- Elsewhere on Street 51 is an ex-pat hang-out with platform seating surrounding a small pool, in a French colonial villa. Big party first Friday of every month, when the place is packed.
- Equinox  on Street 278 (near Street 51) is a cocktail bar featuring paintings by local artist Soumey and photo exhibits by Isabelle Lesser, gaming room with a pool table and the unique bonzini foosball table of Phnom Penh, cool tunes, good food. Increasingly popular with expats.
- FCC and Guesthouse on Sisowath Quay, overlooking the river. Excellent place to meet professionals and travelling people. Happy hour 5-7pm.
- Golden Vine on street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge. Hostess bar with pole dancing and good food. Sunday roast recommended.
- Heart of Darkness has long been the most infamous nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron was shot to death but is now back in business. Some seating is reserved for well-heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local youth, so move if you are asked. While certainly not the safest place in the world, more nights go by without incident than not. A number of expats avoid it now, however. Saturday nights are always packed.
- Martini Pub & Disco on Street 95 (one block off Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station) is an infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, food US$2-6, burgers & fries, pizza, Asian dishes, gaming room, disco, outdoor big-screen showing movies or sports. There some copycat Martini bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this is the original. A place for single men and loose ladies.
- Monsoon Wine Bar on Street 104 is an intimate, cosy wine bar. Try a glass of wine from the well-chosen international wine list or nibble on something from the small but excellent Pakistani menu. Chilled vibe, cool tunes, friendly service.
A note on hostess bars
Surveys have found that the HIV rate among Cambodian female sex workers is 25%.
- OneZeroFour Bar  on Street 104 is a popular low-key hostess bar. The bar has a good range of single malt whiskeys.
- One3Six Bar Located on Street 136. A popular hostess bar.Great range of drinks plus they keep their 42 Below and Grey Goose Vodka in the freezer, so the shots are real smooth.
- Pit Stop on Street 51 is a popular hostess bar.
- Rubies on Street 240 is a wine bar favoured by young ex-pats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.
- Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, #126 Street 130, Phnom Penh  Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Located upstairs on the first floor above street level, Sharky's boasts a large space, huge center bar, outside balcony, and plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah". It's about three 1/2 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market).
- Sugar Shack  on Sothearos (the street in front of the National Museum and Palace) is a classy little hostess bar featuring a nice selection of wines, champagnes and single malts.
- VooDoo Lounge on Street 51 near street 108 is a new bar with a great range of drinks, nice decor, air-con, happy hostesses, and a pool table. Two other hostess bars nearby.
- Walkabout on Street 51 has food and good pool tables. Many freelance girls congregate here. Popular after hours bar, also has rooms available. Open 24 hours.
- Zanzibar on Street 104 is high energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, that's very popular among expats.
- Zapata Bar on Street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge is a stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.
Phnom Penh has a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from budget guesthouses (about US$5-20) through good quality mid-range hotels (US$20-50) to extravagant palaces (with extravagant prices to match).
Boeung Kak Lake, Phnom Penh
Low-cost backpacker accommodation is becoming more abundant by the week. Most is clustered either near the riverfront or at Boeung Kak Lake.
- Chiva's Shack Guesthouse & Bar, #8, St. 130 (40m from riverside) Tel: 012 961073/012 360911  is one of the newest low-cost guesthouses just off the Riverside. It has a great hang out area with tv, and wide selection of movies, games. The bar is reasonalbly priced, and has a pool table which is free to use. Be sure to visit their other location on the coast in Sihanouk Ville, a beach bar and restaurant with guesthouse attatched. Wild beach parties and great sunsets.
- DV8 Guesthouse & Bar, #7 Street 148; 012 776 885  is the legendary small boutique guesthouse located just off the riverfront; ground floor bar, second floor pool table. Rooms US$5-25.
- King Guesthouse, 141th Street, off Sihanouk Avenue; tel. 012 220 512; has ample rooms available to suit your budget. Provides own daily bus service to and from Ho Chi Minh City.
- Number Nine Guesthouse, #9 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake; tel. 012 766 225 / 012 935 813 - well known and popular. Excellent sunsets by the lake. Rooms US$2-4
- Number Nine Sister Guesthouse, tel. 012 424 240 - just around the corner from, but not as nice as, the original.
- Rory's Guesthouse, #33 Street 178 (facing the Royal Palace and National Museum and 100 meters from the riverfront) tel. 012 425 702  - rooms US$10-30.
- Simon's Guesthouse, #11 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake, tel. 012 884 650. Tricky to find but the layout of the rooms (with bathrooms or shared) allows for a nice, cool breeze. Rooms US$2-3.
- Top Banana Guesthouse, #2 Street 278  - A very laid back guesthouse with a cozy, sociable atmosphere and friendly staff. Rooms for as low as five dollars a night, and suprisingly good food.
- Capitol 3 Guesthouse, #207Eo, Street 107, Sangkat Beng Prolit, 7 Makara, Phnom Penh; tel. 023 211 027. Next to the Capitol Tours office and a terrific value at US$4 per night. Warm, friendly staff and quick laundry service. Five floors of squeaky-clean rooms that are out of the direct sunlight and never seem to get too hot - no elevators, though.
- California 2 Guesthouse, 317 Sisowath Quay (on the riverfront, close to Wat Ounalom)  has nice clean rooms with bathroom, air-con, 'fridge, TV. Laundry service, free breakfast. US$15-25.
- Frangipani Villa, #20R, Street 252, Sangkat Chaktomuk, Khan Daun Penh (near Pizza World) Tel: +855 (0) 12 687717, +855 (0) 23 212100, . 1960s building with small garden and granito bathroom. Clean, environmental friendly, free hi-speed Internet access in each room, free laundry, breakfast. US$30-45.
- Golden Gate Hotel, #9 Street 278, Sangkat Beng Keng Kang 1, Khan Chamkarmorn (near the Independence Monument) tel. +855 23 427618, . US$15-40.
- Paragon Hotel, 219B Sisowath Quay. Riverfront, near lots of good cafés. Rooms have bathroom, air-con, tv, fridge. No breakfast, but close to restaurants that serve breakfast. US$15-30.
- The Pavilion, 227, st 19 near the Royal Palace. Colonial building from 1920, lush garden, swimming pool, jacuzzi, free Wi-Fi, some rooms with private swimming pools. US$50-80.
- Hotel Cara, 18 Street 47 & 84 Sangkat Srass Chork, tel +855 23.430.066. A very nice hotel near of the river and port. Good rooms with hot shower, tv and a quite ambient. Some rooms with balcony. Free Internet access in the office area near the lobby but the breakfast is poor. US$ 35-50.
There are a surprising number of 4 and 5 star hotels in Phnom Penh.
- Intercontinental Hotel, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. A favourite among visiting dignitaries, but rather out of the way in the southwest corner of the city.
- Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd (just south of the French Embassy). Newly renovated with very nicely appointed rooms and suites.
- Raffles Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh (off Monivong Blvd), tel. +855 23 981 888, fax. +855 23 981 168, . Phnom Penh's grand old hotel, originally built in 1929 by the French, used as a dry fish store by the Khmer Rouge but given a loving redecoration by the Raffles group in 1999. Walking distance to Wat Phnom and the river, excellent service, wonderful attention to detail and the "Landmark" rooms in the old wing still use bathtubs and even light switches from 1929 (plus broadband Internet and walk-in showers). US$150/300 low/high season.
Cheap SIM cards for GSM phones are available on almost any major street. A vendor should have an activated test card to be used to make sure your phone will operate on that network. Calls between mobile networks can be be spotty and Skype calls from abroad to mobiles in Cambodia are sometimes dropped, so be prepared to redial frequently.
It is difficult to get a SIM card on the two most popular networks 011 and 012. The company does not want to sell SIM cards to non-Khmer people. They prefer that you buy a "tourist SIM card" which is only works for 7 days. It is easier to get SIM cards on the 015, 016 and 092 networks from street vendors.
There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most are in the 1,500 riel/hour bracket (a little under 50 US cents), but provide slow service, suffer occasional power outages and do not run firewalls or anti-virus programs.
- Sunny Internet, 178 Street (opp Foreign Correspondents Club), also Sisowath Quay (next to the Riverstreet restaurant). Provides a faster service at US$1/hour and is popular with tourists and expats.
- Galaxy Web, Street 63, near Sihanouk Boulevard. Excellent service, popular with Westerners.
Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets - most five-star hotels (which provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium), and a number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents Club, Fresco Café (under the FCC), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel).
The medical standard of the local hospitals can be very basic as well as the staff's knowledge on health treatment. This also applies to Calmette Hospital - the number one hospital in Phnom Penh. If you need to see a doctor it is recommended you go to one of the international clinics. They can also arrange transfer to a hospital in Thailand if necessary.
- American Medical Centre, #313 Sisowath (in the Hotel Cambodiana), 023 991 863 and 012 891 613 (out of office hours), provides health care of international standard.
- Dr Marissa Regino-Manampan. Filipino MD @ 262B, Street 63. Clinic phone: 023-217 349.
- International SOS medical and dental clinic, #161, St. 51 (Pasteur), 023 216 911, has local and foreign doctors providing the whole range of standard health care as well as a 24h emergency service.
- Naga Clinic. N° 11, Senei Vinna Vaut Oum (St. 254), Tel: 023-211 300, Mobile: 011-811 175.
Crime-wise, Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. In terms of armed robbery you are safer now than before. However as population and incomes have grown, so has vehicle ownership - but not driving skills - meaning the city's roads are its most dangerous places. Augmenting that danger is the present wave of bag-snatching.
More of an annoyance than a danger, Cambodia's omnipresent touts, moto and tuk tuk drivers are possibly the most aggressive in Southeast Asia; the harassment is constant.
There are still more bad guys with guns than in some Asian cities. Official figures (almost certainly underestimates) report an average of 50 incidents per month (Cambodians and foreigners), leading to 5 deaths and 10 serious injuries. Most commonly Cambodians are victimised for their cell phones or motorbikes. Avoid walking in quiet areas at night, try to find a dependable tuk tuk driver, and don't carry unnecessary valuables or cash.
Phnom Penh's bag-snatching epidemic
However as the risk of armed robbery has waned, a wave of bag-snatching has arisen to take its place. In early 2008 The Phnom Penh Post reported - and many foreign residents attested to - a large upsurge in this crime, both in broad daylight and at night; in crowded streets and deserted ones alike. The victims are almost entirely Western women riding in tuk tuks or on motorbikes (either as passengers or drivers). Sometimes pedestrians are also targeted.
Often these incidents are ultra-violent, with women dragged off moving motorbikes and thrown to the road. In November 2007, a 28-year-old young French woman named Aurelia Lacroix was killed in one of these attacks - though Aurelia's death is just the tip of the iceberg.
If you must carry a bag - and preferably don't - when using motodops put it between you and the driver. In tuk tuks put it under your seat. Apart from their appalling road safety record, motorbikes do not allow you to protect your bag as well as you can in a four-wheel vehicle.
Bag-snatching happens all over Phnom Penh, including outside popular expat hang-outs (e.g. Elsewhere) on weekend nights. Some moto-dop drivers may be in league with the thieves. Moto drivers who work the riverside are generally quite reliable.
Human Immuno-virus (HIV)
Most girlie bars catering to foreigners are in the cross-streets going back off the river, and there are dozens. Freelance girls are picked up at clubs like Heart of Darkness and Martini Bar.
Thus another Phnom Penh danger is HIV, which surveys reveal is carried by about one-quarter of Cambodia's female sex workers.
Additionally, certain high-risk sexual behaviours are emerging in recent Cambodian population studies: nearly 100% of men who have sex with men (MSM) also have sex with women; a new class of 'hidden' sex workers, such as beer girls and park-based prostitutes, is often out of reach of educators; there is very low condom-use among 'sweethearts', and many Cambodians have multiple sweethearts in one year; male clients persuade or force prostitutes not to wear condoms. (This happens to 67% of Cambodian prostitutes every week!) NGOs have got the HIV rate down from around 2% to around 1% over the past decade. But it's possible these emerging behaviours will cause that to reverse.
If you engage in paid sex, use a condom - with water-based lubricant if needed - without fail. Have the necessaries ready in your room (or pocket) before you embark on a night out drinking: condoms can be hard to find at 2am with two bottles of beer onboard.
The Asian-made condoms onsale everywhere - such as the Japanese brand Okamoto - are too small for most Western men. Your bargirl will often refuse to have sex with you if the condom doesn't fit right; and if she doesn't refuse, you are in danger.
If you don't know where to find a larger brand and size, you can buy Durex Fetherlite 52.5's at the pharmacy one block behind the FCC, on the corner. (Look out for the large green neon cross.)
Phnom Penh's traffic
Having said all that, the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is none of the above: it is getting hit by a motorbike - or thrown off one - in the city's diabolically unpredictable traffic.
Cambodia has arguably the worst drivers in Southeast Asia. Although traffic tends to be slower than Bangkok's and less dense than Saigon's, it is literally all over the road: two streams going in each direction at any one time; plus endless switching from one stream to the other.
Crossing the road in this city is dangerous. Constant 360 degree vigilance is essential. Being on a motorbike, back or front, is asking for trouble.
Sihanoukville, Battambang, Siem Reap and Angkor are within a few hours' reach; see above. Some companies also offer services to Kampot and Bokor National Park.
Several tour companies offer day-trips to Tonle Bati, which includes Ta Prohm, an Angkor-era temple not to be mistaken for the Angkor-area temple of the same name.
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