Phitsanulok (พิษณุโลก) is a historic city in Lower Northern Thailand, the capital of the Province of this name, and about halfway between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. It has a population of around 80,000.
A city in the lower part of northern Thailand rich in historical, cultural and natural attractions, Phitsanulok is some 377 km from Bangkok. The province around it covers an area of 10,815 square kilometres, featuring mountains, plains and forest in the east and river basin. The Nan River, lifeline of the province, runs through the heart of the city.
Phitsanulok is a regional commercial and transportation hub. Many travellers will at least pass through Phitsanulok on way to and from the north. While the city itself is not the most exciting or prettiest place in the world, it can be useful for stocking up on supplies, and Phitsanulok is a great starting point for exploring the ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai. The local TAT office is at 209 Thanon Borom Trailokanat (08:30-16:30 daily).
In 1955 a fire destroyed most of the old downtown area. It was rebuilt with concrete midrise buildings, and is dreary and hot (even by Thai standards).
The city dates back to the 10th century when the Khmer ruled this region. Formerly, the city was named Song Khwae, meaning two rivers, as it was located between the Nan and Khwae Noi River. The original location of Song Khwae city is at Wat Chulamani. Around the year 1357, king of Sukhothai, Phra Maha Thammaracha Lithai, decided to move the town to its present location. Since then, Phitsanulok served as a strategic border town ruled by members of the royal family.
During the Ayutthaya Period, the town played a larger role as a buffer town between Ayutthaya, the capital city, and the northern kingdom. Following an administrative reform by King Borommatrailokkanat, it had served as the capital city for 25 years. After that, the town was downgraded to a strategic border town. It has played a major role in blocking the invasion of Burmese troops. King Naresuan the Great, who ruled the town in a capacity as Crown Prince, mobilized troops from Phitsanulok to fight against the Burmese who then ruled over the Siamese Kingdom, and reclaimed independence in 1584.
Phitsanulok became a strategic town in coping Burmese invasion again in 1775 in the Thon Buri period. During a tough battle, the Burmese army’s commander requested an appearance of a Thai commander, Chaophraya Chakri, and predicted that he would become a king. Chaophraya Chakri was later crowned the first monarch of the Rattanakosin period, King Rama I the Great of the Royal House of Chakri. Phitsanulok was upgraded to be a circle called Monthon Phitsanulok in 1894 in the reign of King Rama V. Now, Phitsanulok is a province.
Nokair offers three daily flights between Phitsanulok and Bangkok Don Muang (50 minutes). Bus #4 runs to the airport, as do tuk-tuks for about 10-20 baht.
Also from Don Mueang airport are flights by Air Asia, three daily, and by Thai Lion Air, twice daily. Return flights similarly.
There are several daily services north to Chiang Mai and south to Bangkok. Both take about 6-7 hours.
Extensive bus services connect Phitsanulok with Chiang Mai and Bangkok. As Phitsanulok is a major transportation hub, there are also regular services to the northeast. Phitsanulok is about 390 km from Bangkok. Buses take 5-6 hours for the journey. The return trip can take as long as 7 hours, depending on the Bangkok traffic. The bus to Chiang Mai takes 6 hours.
The main bus station was 2 km east of the train station just off Singhawat Rd. and moved in 2014 to south of the Indochina Intersection (ca. 5 km east of the city center). From there buses leave for Chiang Mai, Tak (via Sukhothai), Khon Kaen and Bangkok, as well as the surrounding provinces and to the towns within the province. Buses still depart from the more central bus station for Sukothai, Chiang Mai and Bangkok, among others, although maybe not as frequently. A ticket to Sukhothai was 60 baht.
You can reach the bus station by tuk-tuk, or hop on the bus on one of the stops downtown, for instance, on the broad road passing south of the Topland Plaza Hotel (a little west of the hotel). Note that the stops and buses have signage in Thai only.
There are also purple songteows (2 bench pickup trucks) which do the rounds inside the City. Each of these has a number written on the front, so ask first! From observation, it appears that numbers 6 and 12 at least, do go between the bus stations. Flag them down and pay the fare on exit.
Public buses serve the town, there are taxis and a few tuktuks near the train station. Away from the train station, neither are easy to find (2018), you may be better just jumping on one of the purple songteow (utes with covered roofs) and seeing where they go. The taxis are supposed to be metered, but it may well be that you need to bargain the fare.
Number 1 bus serves the route between the central bus station and the train station in the town centre, and leaves from the short road leading from the highway to the bus station. Tuks tuks from train station to bus station could be haggled down to at least 60B.
Decent motorbikes (Honda Wave, etc.) can be rented from the shop near the central bus station, at prices somewhat higher than the Chiang Mai standard (starting ~200 baht)
The old bus station is about 4Km from the actual City centre, (where the Clocktower is). The new bus station is even further away on the Nakhon Sawan/Uttaradit road. To get from one to the other - use a purple songteow (numbers 6 and 12 appear to go between them)or go directly ahead from the entrance of number one to the main road, turn right, and about 5km along is the main north/south road. To the right of this is the bus terminal number two about 1km distant, on the right hand side.
Phitsanulok is not well known to foreign tourists and thus has retained the charm of a typical, larger Thai city. Unfortunately, most of the older parts of the city were destroyed in a disastrous fire decades ago.
- Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat (Wat Yai), (near Naresuan Bridge). This is the most important temple in Phitsanulok and is the home of the famous Phra Buddha Chinnarat, one of the most revered Buddha figures in Thailand. The temple is host to a large fair every January. There is also a small market on the ground, where people offer souvenirs and local food. Connected to the temple ground of Wat Yai is the Nang Phaya Temple. There you can get a traditional Thai massage.
- Wat Ratburana, (on the southern side of Naresuan Bridge). This wat is best known for its very old and tall Chedi. According to legend this was constructed in the 15th century to house the ashes of the King of Sukhothai's two brothers. There is also the usual Thai temple buildings, plus, a small museum, and a boat used by King Chulalongkorn. (16.822,100.2606)
- King Naresuan Shrine and Wang Chan Palace Ruin. King Naresuan was one of the great Thai kings who liberated Ayutthaya Kingdom from the Burmese in the 16th century. This shrine commemorates his life. It is found north of the city centre, past the government offices. It is hard to miss. A small white building, inside the statue of the King. lat=16.8298. long=100.2617. Surrounding the shrine are the ruins of the palace the King was born in. Excavations underway in 2012. (16.8298,100.2617)
- City Pillar Shrine/Lak Mueang (Thai), (On the river, opp. Wat Yai.). The spiritual centre of the city and province. A Lak Mueang (Thai) or 'City Pillar Shrine' is a golden pillar, which represents the tutelary diety of each province of Thailand, housed inside an impressively designed structure. This shrine was designed by the Thai Fine Arts Department, in a Khymer style. (16.8243,100.2598)
- House-boats once a symbol of Phitsanulok, only a few of these are left on the river and some now function as restaurants and cafes.
- Buddha factory Essentially a small open workshop, provides an intriguing insight into how Buddha statues are created. Free, but donations welcomed.
- Bird Park next to the Buddha casting factory; with around 100 local species such as parrots (English is spoken!) and hornbills.
- Folklore Museum A small museum exhibiting local culture and society, as collected by Sgt.-Maj. Tawee. Interesting, worth a look. South of town centre. 50 baht entry. +16.8059 +100.2675.
More sights can be suggested by the helpful Tourism Authority office, at 209/7-8 Boromtrailokanat Road, a few streets south of the train station (walking 5-7 minutes)
Visit the temples and stroll around a Thai city that is still relatively unspoiled.
Several markets offer the typical variety of food stall dishes. During the day check out the market just south of the train station, which turns into a popular night market scene in the early evening. Some of the best buys are gai yang (grilled chicken) and kweitiou pat Thai (Thai-style fried noodles).
The Night Bazaar along the river offers lots of tourist-type food options plus after-dinner shopping with the usual night market items.
Phitsanulok Mall: Standard chain restaurant fare. There is a Tesco-Lotus downstairs for self catering and other essentials.
The Big C mall: 3 km east of the city centre, has a wide range of small restaurants and a food hall.
- Jim Jum Num Lin (จิ้มจุ่มนุ่มลิ้น), Located at the northern edge of the municipal, opposite to NBT channel (The last northern intersection of Aka Thotsarot Rd..). 5PM-10PM. Local hotpot buffet with cheap and reasonably good food. No messy buffet bar, the food is served in trays and you boil in their tasty soup in a charcoal hotpot in front of you. The food can be asked as often as you like, meat or veggies, but be sure not to have any left over. They also serve local beers. Nice open air restaurant that locals like to hangout after work. 120-150 THB. (16° 50.316',100° 15.945')
- Connection House, Borom Trai Lokkanat Rd (Going southwest from train station/clock tower, past Xing Ming school but before playground/Leelawadee.). Thai and foreign food, cakes and coffee.
Close to bus station number one, out on the main road from the front of the bus station to the left, are street eat stalls which will do a very good meal for B40 - just look and point, not much is spicy, especially the noodles. They also have beer for B40 per can.
- It's a Cake. In the same building as the Lithai Guest House, sells great cakes and has good sandwiches, pasta, and Thai dishes. Internet.
- Fa Thai Farm, located near Naresuan University, ☎ +6686 795 2256, +6655 226 508, +6681 680 2285, . 7/7, 10am-10pm, (Karaoke all day till midnight). 30-year family run restaurant using all local herbs, vegetables & resources. Grilled fresh water prawn is famous signature dish since 1985. 800-seat restaurant offering authentic Thai food, seafood & Karaoke with accommodations for group events and parties. 9 separate Karaoke rooms available(reservations recommended for Karaoke). open air garden view or indoor air-conditioned. Entertainment for special event can also be arranged. Email: [email protected]
Phitsanulok is not a tourist-oriented city, and there is not a broad range of guest houses. However, there are several good options at rates much lower than in Bangkok or Chiang Mai.
- Asia Hotel, (a short walk from the railway station (turn left on the main road just past the 7-11).). From the outside this hotel doesn't look much, but it has clean fan or air-con rooms with hot water, Wi-Fi, and Thai TV. From the bus station bus number 6, 8, and 12 stop opposite the hotel. from 250 baht.
- BP Tower, (past the Big C on the main road (Mittraphap Rd) out of the city, down a side street, sign on main road.), ☎ +66 55 2208556. Pleasant 6 storey hotel. A bit away from the city, but on the ground floor of the hotel is a mini-mart, laundry, massage, and a small restaurant. Bus to the city is 9 baht, motorbike taxi, 50 baht. 300-500 baht. (16.8169,100.2922)
- ISC Coffee & Bed, 26/146 Wisuttikasat Rd, Muang, Phitsanulok ("about), ☎ +66 089-944-1631 ([email protected]), . Located above a cafe, this is a brand new hostel, and also the only one in town. The owner knows excellent English, as she lived in NYC for 8 months. Everything is new and very clean, with air conditioning, a puffy comforter and pillow, vibrant sheets, and two plugs at every dorm bed. Free locker is included that you comes with a key, plus a slot to put your own lock on. Each room has a balcony. There are multiple showers with hot water units. The Top bunks have their own individual reading lights. Any problem you have, the owner will help you with. She organizes day trips to harder reach locations with the guests, as many of the nearby national parks don't have buses that go to them and private taxis are expensive. The hostel is located within a 20 minute walk to the major temples and Night Bazaar, and is about a 5 minute walk from the Folklore Museum, Bird Garden and Buddha Casting Museum. Wi-fi is free and strong and extends the whole hostel (there are two routers) Update 4/16: My 6 bed dorm had no balcony and hot water showers were nowhere to be found on 3 stories, however the water was warm. No towel provided, which is a little bit disappointing for such a price. 280 baht.
- LiThai Guesthouse, 73/1-5 Phayalithai Rd (some blocks southwest of the train station), ☎ +66 55 2196269 (fax: +66 55 219627 ext 500). Very clean, it has moderate prices starting at 300 baht for a single fan room with en suite bathroom. In-room Wi-Fi is free. Breakfast is included.
- London Guesthouse, 21/22 Soi 1 Putthabucha Road (short walk from LiThai Guesthouse (ask around)), ☎ +66 55 225145. checkout: 11:30. Shared bathrooms with cold showers and no flushing toilets. On one of the busier roads in town, so ask for a back room if noise is an issue for you. Pay another 20 baht for wireless password, good Internet speed. Good location, with night market & railway station nearby. Friendly & helpful staff. Old, spartan, double fan rooms for 100 baht.
- LV Gardenhome, (outside the city near Big C. Bus (9 baht) and songthaew (10 baht) during the day but no transport into the city in the evening, meaning you have little choice of what to do in the evenings as the place is quite remote.), . Very nice hotel - 2-storey with rooms surrounding central garden with water features. Bathroom, air-con, TV, and free Wi-Fi in all rooms. There are a few restaurants across the motorway open at night. Monthly rate of 3,500 baht is for a minimum 3-month stay.
- Phitsanulok Hotel, (across the street from the train station). checkout: 12:00. Big hotel with small rooms. It feels like a barracks. Not really a bargain but it's OK. Fan, table, chair, shower, squat toilet. You get toilet paper, water, soap and a towel. The staff hardly speak any English. Good option if you arrive on the train late at night. 200 baht.
- Karma hOMe hostel, 26/64 Soi Lang Wat Mai Apaiyaram,Phitsanulok. (Centrally located in a quiet road in the city about 500 meters from the train station,about 2 kilometers from bus station number 1 and about 500 meters from Topland hotel and plaza. Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (wat yai for short) which is the most visited temple in Thailand outside of Bangkok is only about 500 meters from us on the river front.You can go jogging along the promenade which is a short walk away. There is also the more interesting Wat Ratanna temple which is about 300 m.), ☎ 0888141268 ([email protected]). checkin: 7:00am; checkout: 12:00. Very clean cheap and new hostel near the train station, Topland plaza and all the main temples. There is a hammock rooftop where you can chill out or party. Bunk bed dorm style rooms with reading lights and shared bathroom. A place to do exercise yoga meditation or reading. The hosts are Thai and English and very helpful with a lot of knowledge about the area. Wifi is free and plenty of sockets for charging things. Kitchen area, fridge, stove, toaster and kettle for your use.They can even arrange free guided tours by local children who want to practice English. 200 baht.
- Amarin Lagoon Hotel, 52/299 Praongkhao Rd, ☎ +66 +66 55 220999 (fax: +66 055 220 944), .
- Grand Riverside Hotel, 59 Praroung Rd, ☎ +66 55 248333 (fax: +66 55 248987), . The hotel offers a free airport transfer. Start at 2,000 baht..
- Rattana Park Hotel, 999/59 Mitrapap Rd (about 500 m from the bus station. Locate the nearby 7-11, walk to the end of the road, then turn right onto Mitrapap), ☎ +66 55 378234. Walk-in price for basic air-con room is 690 baht with breakfast included. Hot water in the shower. Breakfast is basic Thai food, but was quite cold not all that late in the morning.
- Topland Hotel & Convention Centre, 68/33 Ekathosarot Rd, ☎ +66 55 247800, . Part of the Topland Plaza shopping centre, this is one of the better hotels. Buses to Sukhothai leave from in front of the hotel. Good lunch and dinner buffets. It is well worth the money, it contains a popular night-club. 1,600+ baht..
- Immigration Office (visa extensions and 90-day registry here), in the Floating Museum opposite the main Post Office, on the river (walk upriver from the night bazaar (same river bank) approx 10 minutes (you will need to cross a road junction). After about 10 minutes you should see the main post office on the right hand side. The Immigration Office is the traditional wooden building, on the left hand side, before the post office.).
Phitsanulok is a good stop-over from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (or vice versa).
|Routes through Phitsanulok