The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies slightly off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triumph. However, if you want to see real Paris at some of its finest and wealthiest, this is where to go. There are no major sights to see, museums to go to, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, real French people, and that atmosphere of the quintessential Paris you've always imagined.
Beyond this the south-western and north-eastern ends of the arrondissement have quite different characters, with the south-western mainly known as a midrange to high-end shopping district named for two major avenues which are lined with shops: Wagram-Ternes, feeling much like an extension of the Champs Élysées.
The north-eastern end, known as Batignolles is quite different with a grungy bohemian feeling and lots of bars and bistros which are popular with BoBos (short for bohemian-bourgeois aka "hipsters") from the 17th and elsewhere.
Line 3 has stops at Pereire, Porte de Champerret, and Wagram among others.
Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris's upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this!
The Parc Monceau is one of Paris's best kept secrets, painted by Monet numerous times. It is a very elegant centre of green in the middle of cosmopolitan Paris. Make sure you check out the statues, entrance rotunda and the surrounding mansions. Thanks to Haussmann himself this precious slice of parkland was reserved for the enjoyment and leisure of the people of Paris. It is unusual in France due to its casual, informal "English" style planning, and is a contrast to other Parisian parks such as the classically laid out and formal Luxemburg Gardens and the Tuileries. Randomly placed throughout the park are scaled-down architectural replicas including an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort.
The Park has free Wi-fi for the internet-conscience.
- Marché Poncelet. Street market.
- Parc Monceau. Great place for a walk or picnic.
- Marché des Batignolles, rue Lemercier at Rue des Moines. Tue-Sat 8:30am-1:30pm, 4pm-7:30pm. This covered market is known for its organic produce, and has fish and meat and a supermarket (G20) as well.
The XVIIe arrondissemnt has some of the finest Algerian cuisine in Paris- if you want a twist on the French wine and food, go try some!
- A Joy in Food, 2 rue Truffaut (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎ +33 1 43 87 96 79. Lunchtime only. Vegetarian home cooking which leans heavily into Laurel's Kitchen territory. It's not the Potager du Marais (see Paris/3rd_arrondissement), but it's a close runner-up.
- Jaipur, 25, rue des Dames (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎ +33 1 42 94 13 14. noon-2:30pm 7pm-midnight. The brothers who operate this Indian/Mexican restaurant are actually from Sri Lanka, but that doesn't seem to impact their ability to deliver on both of their favourite ethnic cuisines. When asked why Mexican, the youngest of the three (and the usual waiter) explained "because we like it". You will too. €20.
- La Gaieté Cosaque, 6 rue Truffaut, ☎ +33 1 44 70 06 07. Traditional Russian food which runs heavily into various roasts and stews. This one is definitely for the carnivorous. After dinner the very Russian patron will surely coax you into enjoying a few too many of his fabulous vodkas. Save a little room for a glass of wine around the corner though... €20.
- Le Réfuge, 34 rue Lemercier, ☎ +33 1 42 93 46 16. until 5am. The drinks speciality here is an assortment of flavoured vodkas. The food, served in the spacious seating area in back is traditional, including a huge cheese platter.
- Le Bistral, 80 rue Lemercier, ☎ +33 1 42 63 59 61. Inventive cooking in the Spanish tradition and an intimate atmosphere are what distinguishes this little place from the dozens of bistros in the neighbourhood, but it's probably the genuinely caring, warm, service which will bring you back again and again. €35.
- l'Abadache, 89 Rue Lemercier (Métro: Brochant), ☎ +33 1 42 36 37 33. A French-English collaboration, the cooking is mostly in the French tradition but with a English cheddar and quite a bit of English inventiveness. Go for the polenta with sun-dried tomatoes. €30.
- Aux Couleurs du Monde, 118, rue Truffaut (Métro:Brochant), ☎ 01-43-87-34-55. A Laoasian/Honduran restaurant with a superb atmosphere, trendy decor, friendly service and good food. It's not hard to understand why it's one of the most popular places with Batignolles BoBos as well as people from outside of the quarter, at least judging by the number of taxis queued up late in the evening. €25.
- Brasserie Wepler, 14, Place de Clichy, 75018, ☎ +220.127.116.11.53.24, . Excellent service, open late, menu from 27€. Seafood specialities.
- O Batignolles, 89, rue Truffaut (Métro: Brochant), ☎ +33 1-42-29-70-69, . A new favourite among foodies in the area, O Batignolles wins high praise from reviewers not just for the inventive and ever changing menu, but also as a wine bar. €15.
- Niv's, 8, rue des Batignolles (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎ +33 1 42 36 37 33. A Franco-Italian bistro with high-end Italian dishes.
- Le Kloog, 63 rue Guy Môquet (Métro: Guy Môquet), ☎ +33 1 42 29 59 18. This cozy and well-designed little space specializes in wholesome organic treats. They also offer a vegetarian deli and free WiFi.
- James Joyce Pub, 71 Boulevard Gouvion St. Cyr., ☎ +33 1 44 09 70 32, . Across from the Palais de Congres. Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer.
Map of the 17th Arrondissement
- Sans Gêne, 112 rue Legendre, ☎ +33 1 46 27 67 82, . The name means "Without annoyance", but given the shared toilet space perhaps it should be rethought. Still this second location for the popular Oberkampfian drinking spot has a lot going for it including clean trendy decor and more importantly free WiFi.
- Lush, 16 rue des Dames, ☎ +33 1 43 87 49 46. Grungy atmosphere and a well thought out selection of beers and tunes have made this a popular space with the bobo crowd. There's not much in the way of furniture, so it's standing room only when the place gets hopping. Of course that means you can fit more hipsters per square meter.
- Les Caves Populaires, 22 rue des Dames. until 2am. Another major bobo hangout, this one specialized in wine as opposed to the more beer oriented lush.
- Le Bar Belge, 75 avenue Saint Ouen (Métro: Guy Moquet), ☎ +33 1 44 70 06 07. Opened in 1954 as Paris was finally recovering from the occupation, the bar Belge serves dozens of different Belgian beers, ales, and lambics in locals-dominated, but very friendly room. They also have Vlaams Frites, the original "french" fries. Free Wifi.
- Hotel Eldorado, Rue des Dames 18 (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎ +33 1 45 22 35 21. The Eldorado, a former maison de rendez-vous, was once home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there's a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre's high prices, but they're within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10 am) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, especially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. 23/55 € - 49/79 € (''singles/doubles''). Confirm rates before booking, though - their website is not frequently updated..
- Hotel Prince Albert Monceau, 9 Rue Tarbe. Free WiFi
- Hotel Saint Cyr Etoile, 101 Ave des Ternes, ☎ +33 1 45 74 87 42, . Just around the corner from Palais des Congres. Small rooms - but that is to be expected. Friendly staff and a nice breakfast each morning.
- Hôtel Acacias Etoile, 11, rue des Acacias (Métro: Charles de Gaulle - Étoile), ☎ +33 1 43 80 60 22 ([email protected], fax: +33 1 48 88 96 40), . A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near the Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren't large, but they are immaculate. €129/night for one person, without breakfast; breakfast is €12 extra.
- Le Kloog, (see Drink listing). Free WiFi
- Le Bar Belge, (see Drink listing). Free WiFi