Queen Charolotte Sound from The Snout lookout between Picton and Waikawa Bay.
The Marlborough Sounds are a visual feast of the interplay between the land, sea, nature and light. This series of drowned valleys is the north eastern edge of New Zealand's South Island and the northern edge of the province of Marlborough. The Sounds are divided into two main waterways, The Pelorus Sound, with Havelock at its base, and Queen Charlotte Sound, the main town of which is Picton. Of the two, the Queen Charlotte Sound is generally seen as being more picturesque, with the Pelorus being more remote. The inner Sounds (especially the Queen Charlotte Sound) has reasonably extensive residential development. The Pelorus, being more remote, still has areas of untouched native forest, most of which is only accessible by boat.
Flora and fauna
Almost every exploration of the Marlborough Sounds will begin in Picton, Havelock or Rai Valley, all on the southern side of the Marlborough Sounds. Picton is the northern most point of State Highway 1 in the South Island, the northern terminal of the Tranzcoastal train and is the South Island port of ferries from Wellington. Havelock and Rai Valley are on State Highway 6 between Blenheim and Nelson.
The roads around the Sounds while offering stunning views, are generally narrow and windy. Do not expect to travel at speeds greater than 60km/h and plan to give yourself plenty of time. Generally there are no loop roads in the Sounds - you end up coming out the same way you go in. Getting petrol can be a problem, especially in the evenings and at weekends. Picton has a 24hr petrol station (the Shell on High St) and Blenheim has a selection on State Highway 1 which bisects the town. Rai Valley and Havelock have petrol stations which keep reasonable hours.
- Just west of the settlement of Rai Valley on State Highway 6 is a turn-off leading to French Pass and Tennyson Inlet. Not long after you leave the state highway you will come to a junction. Taking the left fork the road continues over the Ronga Saddle yielding views of the Croisilles Harbour. The settlement of Okiwi Bay has petrol at the camp ground shop. The road then snakes around Elaine Bay before branching at the head of Admiralty Bay. The left road takes you to the French Pass settlement riding high on the ridge overlooking Tasman and Admiralty Bays. Allow 2 hours from the state highway to get to French Pass. Fuel is available at the French Pass store. The right road runs around the eastern side of Admiralty Bay overlooking the main Pelorus Sound to Port Ligar and Bulwer. Allow more than 2 hours to get to Bulwer.
- Leaving the state highway west of Rai Valley and then taking the right fork leads to Duncan Bay in Tennyson Inlet via the Opouri Saddle, from which are spectacular views. Tennyson Inlet is the end of the Nydia track.
- Traveling 12 km north west of Havelock is Kaiuma Bay Rd, which leads to the beginning of the Nydia track.
- At the southern end of Havelock is the start of the Queen Charlotte Drive, the scenic route between Havelock and Picton. The road climbs to Cullen Point. From the carpark at the top there is a short walk which leads to a lookout giving views of Mahau Sound, as well as Kaituna and Pelorus estuaries. From there the roads runs up to the head of Mahau Sound and then to Linkwater, where petrol can be purchased from the garage. 800m beyond the garage is the turnoff north to the Keneperu Rd and a further 2 km is the turnoff north to Anakiwa, the start of the Queen Charlotte Track. Queen Charlotte Drive then follows Queen Charlotte Sound to the Grove, Momorangi Bay and Ngakuta Bay, which has a beach good for a dip. The road snakes to the port of Shakespeare Bay with a lookout on the eastern side before climbing over the last hill to Picton. Allow 1 hour for this trip.
- Kenepuru Rd turns off Queen Charlotte Drive at Linkwater. This road first climbs and then hugs the side of the Keneperu Sound past Te Mahia resort, Portage (where petrol is available) to the head of the Keneperu Sound. The road continues up to a saddle where the road forks, the left fork to Anakoha and the right to Titirangi Bay and Endevour Inlet. The track to the stop of Mt Stokes leaves from that fork.
- From Picton, traveling east leads to Waikawa Bay. Beyond the bay the road climbs over to Port Underwood. It continues to Robin Hood Bay, White's Bay and Rarangi and Blenheim. This route takes 1 1/2 hours.
For rental cars in Picton go to http://www.nzrentalcarhire.com http://www.pictonrentalcars.com
Buses and shuttles route link Picton, Blenheim, Havelock, Rai Valley and Nelson. From Havelock, there is a shuttle to both ends of the Nydia track, Kaiuma Bay and Duncan Bay, Tennyson Inlet.
Boats are a good way to get round the Sounds. The size of the marinas especially at Waikawa Bay and Havelock is testament to that. Cook Strait at the head of the Sounds can be rough. Typically, transport will only take you within one of the Sounds.
Queen Charlotte Sound
- Cougar Line, The Waterfront, Picton, ☎ 03 573 7925 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 7926), .
- Overture Charters, Waikawa Marina, Picton, ☎ 03 573 5220 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 5739), .
- Beachcomber (The mail boat), The Waterfront, Picton, ☎ 03 573 6175 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 6176), .
- Endeavour Express, Picton Foreshore, ☎ 03 573 5456 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 5434), .
- Dolphin Watch Ecotours, Dunbar Wharf, Picton Foreshore, ☎ 03 573 8040 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 7906), .
- Arrow Water Taxis, Town Wharves, Picton Waterfront, ☎ 03 573 8229 or 027 444 4689 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 8266).
- Picton Water Taxis, London Quay, Picton, ☎ 03 573 7853 or 027 551 1284 ([email protected]).
- Pelorus Mail Boat, Jetty 1 Havelock Marina, ☎ 03 574 1088 ([email protected]), . Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays. Departs from Havelock Marina 9:30 am - Returns to Havelock late afternoon. A courtesy coach is available from Picton and return. Adults $128pp, Children up to 16yrs Free.
- Pelorus Water Transport, Jetty 1a, Havelock Marina, ☎ 027 239 0000 or after hours 03 577 6103 ([email protected]), .
- Marlborough Travel, ☎ 03 577 9997 or 0800 990 800 ([email protected], fax: 03 577 9979), .
- Pelorus Belle Water Taxi, ☎ 027 444 2852 or 03 574 2151 ([email protected]).
- Havelock Water Taxi, ☎ 027 618 3585 ([email protected]).
Rare Hectors Dolphin in Queen Charolotte Sound.
Dolphins, sea birds, forest from the ridgeline to the sea.
- Tui Nature Reserve Eco Boat Tours, Waitata Reach - Outer Pelorus (leaves from Havelock or Elaine Bay), ☎ 0800-107077, . Cruise the amazing coves and waterways of the Marlborough Sounds. Visit the remote and isolated 'Tui Nature Reserve' includes a guided conservation tour plus a 4WD trip to the top of the plateau forested hill. Ranked 8th by BBC Wildlife Magazine in the top 10 Best Eco-destinations in the World. (Dec. 2007)Maximum of six to eight people.
- Greenshell Mussel Cruise, Havelock Marina, ☎ 035779997, . The totally unique wine and food experience in the tranquil Marlborough Sounds. Cruise the sheltered waterways of the Sounds and visit a mussel farm to taste the freshest Mussels with a glass of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
- Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company, London Quay, Picton, ☎ 03 573 6078 or 0800 283 283 or from Australia 1800 007 083 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 8827), . 2007 New Zealand Tourism Award Winner. Mountain biking, kayaking, walking the Queen Charlotte Track. Tours or freedom hire. One day or many. Great team, professional service.
- Walk or bike the Queen Chalotte Track, . A 3 to 4 day walk from the historic Ship Cove through to Anakiwa in the Grove Arm giving unsurpassed views of Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds.
- Drive your own boat and explore the Pelorus sound with Waterways Boating Safaris, ☎ 03 574 1372 or 027 2551511 ([email protected]), . Visit beaches only accessible by boat. Full day or half day trips. Transport from Picton or Havelock
- Make your own cheese in the Mahau Sound. Take part in the Mystery of Cheese workshop. Sherrington Grange, Mahau Sound, RD 2, Picton (Sherrington Grange is 1 hour from both Blenheim and Picton. To find us, turn up Kenepuru Road at Linkwater and after about 20 minutes, take the signposted driveway (first road after the cattle stop). Alternatively, take a 15min water taxi from Picton to Waterfall Bay and be met for the 10min drive home), ☎ 03 5742655 ([email protected], fax: 03 574 2655), . Accommodation, activities such as walking, kayaking, star gazing and fishing also available. ""$110".
- Natural Encounters Walks - Queen Charlotte Track, Picton, . Guided and unguided walks on the Queen Charlotte Track staying in small boutique accommodation. Includes all meals, transport, daily luggage transfers, guiding services.
- Tui Nature Reserve - Eco Boat Tours, Outer Pelorus - Waitata Reach, ☎ 0800-107077, . Cruise the amazing coves and waterways of the Marlborough Sounds. Visit the remote and isolated 'Tui Nature Reserve' including a guided conservation tour plus a trip to the top of the plateau forested hill. Ranked 8th by BBC Wildlife Magazine of the top 10 Eco-destinations in the World. (Dec. 2007) A real highlight!
- Art by Sirpa Alalääkkölä, Ngakuta Bay, Queen Charlotte Drive, ☎ 03 573 7775 or 021 674772, . By appointment only.
- Marlborough Outdoor Adventures, Blenheim, ☎ 027 668 2009, . as required. Marlborough Outdoor Adventures offers a range of adventure activities whatever your level of fitness. Scenic drives to multi day alpine hikes. Coastaleering, canyoning, four wheel drive safaris, gear hire and transport to all the out-of-the-way places as well as a few main routes! A chance to see the real New Zealand with local, active and genuine operators who love what they do.
The local delicacies are the green-shelled mussel and local salmon. Farmed in large numbers (as well as settling naturally on pretty much any structure placed in the water), the mussel is available at most restaurants, cafe's and bars. Picton, Havelock and the Rai Valley have eateries on their respective pages. All the resorts listed under accommodation have restaurants attached.
All of the resorts have bars worth downing a few in.
- Linkwater Country Inn, Queen Charlotte Drive, Linkwater, ☎ 03 574 2507 (fax: 03 574 2517). Hearty Kiwi pub food
Kiwi families often have holiday homes which are rented out when the owners are absent. If you are staying for more than a couple of nights, or have a large group or a family in need of its own space, a holiday home can be a good option.
Queen Charlotte Sound
- Mahana Homestead Lodge, Punaruawhiti Bay in Endeavour Inlet, ☎ 03 579 8373 ([email protected]), . $33 - $75 per person.
- Bay of Many Coves Resort, Queen Charlotte Sound, ☎ 03 5799 771 or 0800 5799 771 ([email protected], fax: 03 5799 777), .
- Furneaux Lodge, Endeavour Inlet, ☎ 03 579 8259 ([email protected], fax: 03 579 8279), . $60 - $245 for 2 people.
- Waikawa Bay Seafront Apartments, Waikawa Bay, ☎ 03 573 5220 ([email protected], fax: 03 573 5739), . $130 - $245 for 2 people.
- Anakiwa Lodge, 9A Lady Cobham Grove, Anakiwa, ☎ 03 574 2115 ([email protected]), . checkin: 8am - 9pm; checkout: 10am (late checkout available, subject to bookings). At the start (or end) of the Queen Charlotte Track. $50 - $130 for 2 people.
- The Portage Resort Hotel, 2393 Kenepuru Road, Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand, ☎ 64 3 573 4309 ([email protected]), . $40-$325 per night.
- Te Rawa Resort, Wilson's Bay, ☎ 03 579 8285 ([email protected], fax: 03 579 8286), . $50 - $189 for 2 persons.
- French Pass Sea Safaris & Beachfront Villas, French Pass, ([email protected], fax: 03 576 5204), .
- Okiwi Bay Holiday Park & Lodge, Okiwi Bay, ☎ 03 576 5006 ([email protected], fax: 03 576 5005), . $14.50 - $88.00 per adult.
- Portage Resort Hotel, Keneperu Road, ☎ 03 573 4309 ([email protected]), . As the name suggests Portage is handy to Queen Charlotte Sound, being a short walk from Torea Bay. Portage will collect you from Torea Bay.
- Hopewell, Kenepuru Rd, Double Bay, Keneperu Sound (At the end of Kenepuru Rd. The website has detailed driving instructions and alternatives), ☎ 03 573 4341 ([email protected]), . BBH National Quality Awards, first place in New Zealand for 2005, 2006 and 2007 $26 - $42 per person.
- Ohingaroa Bay Cabin, 745 Kenepuru Rd, Mahau Sound (7km on Kenepuru Rd from Linkwater, Queen Charlotte Dr (between Picton and Havelock)), ☎ 03 574 1372 ([email protected]), . $65 per Double.
- The No Road Inn, Endeavour Inlet (4 hrs walk from Ship Cove, or 1 hr from Picton by water taxi.), ☎ 03 579 8300, . A new water front upmarket lodge for up to 8 guests.
Camping and Backcountry
There are a large number of Department of Conservation campsites throughout the Sounds, some only accessible by boat or kayak. Some are serviced; others are just a place to pitch a tent with a toilet and running water.
Enjoy the sun and a sauvignon blanc in Blenheim or the beach and art in Nelson.