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Revision as of 05:05, 16 January 2009

Turning Torso in Malmö

Malmö [1] is Sweden's third largest municipality with a population of about 271,000. It is a port city located on the southern tip of the country.


Malmö, along with the southern parts of Sweden, belonged to Denmark until 1658. In many ways more Danish than Swedish, many inhabitants feel more longing towards Denmark than their home-country. The city is also very much like Copenhagen in its mentality and architecture.

Malmö has a large part of its inhabitants born abroad, thus contributing to a rich cultural life and many exotic and fine food opportunities. The ship building Kockums company used to be the city's biggest employer, but today the industrial city of old has been replaced by something more middle class.

Get in

By plane

Both Malmö Airport (Sturup) [2] and Copenhagen Airport (Kastrup) [3] serve Malmö. If you get to the Malmö Airport you'll then have to take the bus shuttle service to downtown Malmö, but first check the schedules at Flygbussarna's homepage [4] because on Saturday afternoons they don't have many buses. From Copenhagen Airport you can either take the train or the bus, bus being the cheapest option.

By train

Trains from Copenhagen cross the bridge in 35 minutes from København H (Copenhagen Central Station). They leave all day from Elsinore (Helsingør), traversing the east coast of Sjælland, before crossing CPH centre and then crossing the bridge to Malmö, also connecting Kastrup airport to the city. Extra trains leave in peak hours from København H (Copenhagen Central Station) to Malmö Svågertorp, on the southern fringes of the city with bus connection to the centre, making it 6 trains an hour. Expect to pay 190 SEK for a return ticket to Kastrup airport or Copenhagen Central.

There are about ten daily X2000 trains [5] to Stockholm and roughly 100 daily departures for the nearby university town of Lund (17 km north). For travel northward, there are hourly services to Helsingborg and Gothenburg with connections to Oslo. There is also a bi-nightly overnight service connecting Malmö to Berlin [6].

Night trains depart for Storlien (Friday and Sunday) with connection to Trondheim. For every-night connection, grab a train (or bus) for Gothenburg.

By car

If you don't take the train across the bridge (and tunnel), you can drive for yourself. It is a pay bridge, where you pay to enter Sweden (250 DKK in 2008), after you go through the tunnel and across the bridge, and then it costs the same to come back. The view is much less obstructed if you choose to go by car as compared to train. [7]

Öresund bridge

By bus

Gråhundbus [8], Swebus Express [9], and Säfflebussen [10] have routes to Copenhagen and other places. To Copenhagen the buses take longer but are cheaper than the train, especially for daytrips.

By boat

There is a ferry link from Travemünde, Germany to Malmö by Finnlines [11].

Get around

Malmö is best experienced by bicycle, the city is interlaced with lots of bicycle roads. Use the green Skånetrafiken [12] buses to get around town. Taxi is also a priceworthy option, fixed rates begin at 49/59/79 SEK.


Malmö's Big Square (Stortorget)
  • At the heart of Malmö lie three squares, called Gustav Adolf's Square (Gustav Adolfs torg), the Big Square (Stortorget) and the Little Square (Lilla torg). Stortorget and Lilla Torg are directly connected at one corner, and a pedestrians only shopping street connects them with Gustav Adolfs torg.
    • At the center of the Big Square is a statue of King Karl X Gustav of Sweden, who took the city from Danish dominion. The ornate Malmö City Hall (built in 1546) is on the east side, and in the northwest corner is Kockska Huset, the house of Jörgen Kock, a German immigrant who became mayor of the city and achieved wealth simply and directly: by taking control of the city mint. In the winter the square becomes a skating rink.
    • The Little Square is the place for socializing and dining, with the edges taken up by various restaurants' outdoor tables.
  • Gustav Adolfs torg is surrounded on three sides by buildings containing shops and a McDonalds. At the center of the square is a bus platform. A cemetery lies at the south side of the square, through which one can reach Slottsparken, a beautiful park that surrounds Malmöhus.
Malmöhus Castle
  • Malmöhus Castle, located west of the old city core, was built in 1437 by Erik of Pomerania, inhabited by the kings of Denmark in the 1500s, and used as a prison until 1914. Currently it houses a history museum, art museum, aquarium, and terrarium. Sharing the castle grounds are the Kommendanthuset (Commandant's House) used for various exhibitions throughout the year. Fiskehoddorna - a small, traditional fish market - lies nearby.
Technology Museum, Malmö
  • Tekniska o Sjöfartsmuseet (Technology and Maritime Museum), located west of the castle. The largest section of the museum is devoted to transport, in particular aviation, and there are lots of cut-away models, including the entire front end and cockpit of a Vickers Viscount. Visitors can walk (crawl, actually in places) through a 1943 Swedish U3 submarine. Unfortunately the displays are only labelled in Swedish, but is well worth a visit, nonetheless. Adult entrance fee is 40SEK.
Slottsträdgården, Malmö
  • Slottsträdgården, (Castle Garden) located south of the castle, within Kungsparken (King's Park). This is one of the city's newest amenities and is an organic community garden, open throughout the year. There are eight themed gardens and a potager. Freshly picked flowers and vegetables are available for purchase in the summer months. There is also a small cafe, run entirely by volunteers.
  • Turning Torso, completed in 2005, is at 190 m the tallest building in Scandinavia. Mostly apartments with some offices, it's located in a new zone near the waterfront and has no observation tower or other sightseeing facilities, so it's probably best to admire it from afar (visible from almost anywhere in the city). If you are visiting in the summer there is a nice waterfront promenade and a open-sea bath nearby the Turning Torso. There is also a state of the art skateboarding park in the area.
  • Möllevångstorget square, south of the city center, has a bustling open-air market on weekends. The surrounding neighborhood is full of inexpensive Asian and Middle Eastern shops, restaurants and grocery stores catering to the alternative side of the city, the immigrant population and people who are tired of mainstream commerce.
  • Gamla Väster, between Lilla Torget and Malmöhus, is a quiet and sophisticated part of town with lots of galleries, design shops and restaurants.
  • Davidshallstorg is a square with design shops, clothes stores and restaurants. The atmosphere here is posh, so the vibe is very different from Möllevångstorget's. There are similar shops on the nearby parts of Davidshallsgatan.
  • Koggmuseet [13] lets you set foot on two cog ships built after originals from the middle ages.
S:t Petri church, Malmö
  • S:t Petri kyrka is the city's oldest church (from the 14th century), while S:t Johannes kyrka probably is the largest.
  • Browsing the shelves of Malmö Stadsbibliotek [14] (Malmö's public library, Kung Oscars väg) and admiring the building itself is a must for all architecture buffs and intellectuals. They will also want to go to Malmö Konsthall [15] (Malmö Art Hall, S:t Johannesgatan 7, free entrance).



Kungsparken, Malmö
  • Visit the Folkets park (People's Park, free entrance) [16]. Try the different rides on the amusement park (mostly for smaller kids, as the attractions aren't scary enough for teenagers). See the terrarium. Ride a pony. Sunbathe. Eat and drink.
  • Go to the Pildammsparken (with gardens, buildings from the Baltic exhibition in 1914 and a theater) and Kungsparken / Slottsparken (behind the castle). Sunbathe or have a picnic.
  • Don't miss Malmöfestivalen [17] - a free festival that takes place for eight days every year, with lots of cultural and culinary experiences.
  • Swim and sunbathe on the two-kilometre sandy beach Ribersborgsstranden. In the winter you can enjoy ice swimming, ideally combined with kallbadhuset's [18] sauna with panoramic view of Öresund.
  • Experience the multicultural area around "Möllevångstorget". Here you can find exotic shops selling asian and middle eastern food stuffs and a wide selection of pubs and bars. In the mornings there is also an open market where you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables.
  • The flat landscape of Skåne is ideal for golf. Around Malmö there are quite a few good courses and a new 36 holes PGA standard course being built.


The Malmö University [19] offers education on the university level.



Malmö offers four shopping plazas in the centre, HansaCompagniet [20], Triangeln [21], Storgatan [22], and Caroli [23]. Storgatan mostly has clothes for young people and coffee shops. The others offer the usual mixture of town shopping with clothes, cameras, jewelry, electronics, books, movies etc. blended with eateries, both international fast food chains and local ones. World famous Swedish glassware can also be bought there.

The main shopping streets are Södergatan and Södra Förstadsgatan, where you can find all kinds of shops. Look out for Village, well designed homeware, at reasonable prices.

Form/Design Center, Malmö

Form/Design Center [24] (free entrance) is located on Lilla Torg.

Les Trois Roses (Gustav Adolfs torg, Davidshallstorg) is a great chocolaterie.

There are also some shopping plazas outside the city centre, like Mobilia Shopping Center [25] and Jägersro Center [26].

Getting Online

  • Sidewalk Express, Railway station. 19 SEK per hour.
  • Gameness, Mäster Nilsgatan 20. 20 SEK per hour.


Look out for pepparkakor, literally pepper cookies, but flavoured with cinnamon, ginger, molasses and cloves. Traditional accompaniment to glögg (mulled wine).


  • Many places around Möllevångstorget cater to the budget option. Get a falafel (15-25 SEK), Indian, Thai, Middle Eastern or Chinese meal from 35 SEK and up. Plenty to choose from. Råå Bar & Restaurang and Krua Thai on Möllevångstorget are two great, inexpensive Thai places. On Södra Förstadsgatan near Möllevångstorget are a number of good places - Ganesha does tasty and cheap Indian fast food for 45 SEK and up, and restaurant Middle East has good shawarmas for 30 SEK. Just off Möllevångstorget on Ystadsgatan is an unpretentious Persian restaurant which does good food.
  • Restaurant Asia is an unpretentious looking restaurant that serves delicious vietnamese food. You'll find it a short walk from Möllevångstorget, down Ystadsgatan. On the menu you will find food like Pho or Vietnamese springrolls. Very tasty and reasonably priced.
  • La Empanada [27] is a price worthy option for a budget traveller, big portions at a low cost. It is a chain with three outings that serves both Latin American and Swedish food.
  • Turkish restaurant Ankara (on Södra Förstadsgatan near the Hilton Hotel) does an excellent buffet (59 SEK daytime and 79 SEK evenings). On Friday and Saturday evenings they have a free belly-dancing show too.
  • Crépa Café, Spångatan 32, +46 40971755. Serves tasty crêpes with Greek flavor, in a trendy yet calm atmosphere. Mains 45-47 SEK.
  • Koh Chang Thai, Amiralsgatan 6, +46 406116496 [28]. Serves really tasty and cheap thai food in a calm environment. Mains 69-120 SEK.
  • Dolce Sicilia, Drottningtorget 6, [29]. Heavenly homemade ice cream.
  • Lilla glassfabriken [30], Holmgatan 9. Really tasty homemade ice cream and sorbet.
  • Di Penco, [31] is an Italian lunch restaurant situated a short walk from "Triangeln". They serve delicious home made pasta with freshly baked ciabatta bread for only 65 SEK.


Little square

There are a lot of restaurants in the Little Square with outdoor seating (with heating year-round).

  • Mello Yello, +46 40304525. A delicious mix of Swedish and European food. The best view and service is in the one located close to the Turning Torso and the beach (150 SEK each).
  • Paddy's, +46 04078600. Kalendergatan. Excellent Swedish food, don't let the idea of eating in an Irish bar put you off! Booking is essential in this busy restaurant.
  • Victor's, +46 40127670. Swedish and international cuisine.
  • Izakaya Koi, +46 4075700. Not quite like a Tokyo tavern, but it still manages to attract visiting Japanese businessmen.
  • Steak House, +46 40973497. Very nice food for a reasonable price by Scandinavian standards. Unfortunately service was poor.
  • Indian Side, +46 40307744.

There are also lots of mid-range restaurants in other parts of town.

  • Svea Bar och Bistro, Mäster Johansgatan 11, +46 40121318, [32]. Serves high-quality, traditional Swedish dishes as well as modern dishes based around local Swedish flavours. Mains 155-225 SEK.
  • Indian Haweli on Södra Förstadsgatan near Möllevångstorget is not the best Indian restaurant in town and the service is quite bad (140 SEK).
  • La Couronne on Södra Förstadsgatan (north of the Hilton Hotel) does excellent moules marinieres with or without french fries and mayonaisse. Nearby restaurant Brogatan on Brogatan serves oysters at 14 SEK each, which is almost what you'd pay in the shop (12 SEK).
  • Nesta on the main shopping street (at the corner of Baltzarsgatan) is an excellent mid-priced Italian café, with good snacks and Malmö's best coffee.
  • Pizzeria Ristorante Siciliana (Möllevångsgatan 34) is an authentic Italian restaurant with great food. It was founded in 1970.
  • Moonlitlounge, Davidshallstorg 7, [33]. Has a nice mix between unpretentious cosyness and Davidshallstorg-style trendyness. Mainly Italian food. Mains 120-205 SEK.
  • Tempo bar och kök, Södra Skolgatan 30A. A trendy place with a modern version of Swedish food. Mains 75-135 SEK.
  • Metro, Ängelholmsgatan 14, [34]. Another restaurant and bar for the local hipsters. They also have club nights. Mains 115-230 SEK.
  • Yukai, Bergsgatan 35. A calm place with great atmosphere, great sushi and great service. Probably the best Japanese restaurant in town. Mains 64-175 SEK.
  • Lemongrass, Grynbodgatan 9, [35]. A sophisticated place serving asian crossover food to a well-to-do crowd. Mains 134-208 SEK.
  • Två Krögare - Bullen, Storgatan 35, [36]. One of few restaurants that still serve traditional Swedish food (husmanskost).


  • Bloom, Pildammsvägen 2, [37]. Five Course Menu, 695 SEK.


  • Möllevångstorget Any of the many bars, cafés and restaurants in this bustling part of town is good value.
  • Slagthuset, Jörgen Kocksgatan 7A, [38]. The city's best-known nightclub, housed in a former slaughterhouse (hence the name). The facility also includes a performance theater and restaurants during the day.
  • Étage, Stortorget 6, [39]. Popular nightclub in the Big Square.
  • Gatan Bar, Mäster Johansgatan 15. Lively pub with darts, located just off the Little Square.
  • Kulturbolaget (usually known as just KB), Bergsgatan 18, [40]. Malmö's premier rock club with many international and national touring acts. They also have clubs on weekends for those who are more into partying.

You can pick up the free Nöjesguiden and Dygnet Runt magazines in various stores to read more about Malmö's nightlife. They are only available in Swedish though.



  • STF Hostel Malmö City, Rönngatan 1, phone 040-611 62 20, [41]. The IYHF hostel in town. Dorm bed 180 SEK, singles from 325 SEK, doubles from 430 SEK. Add 45 SEK to the price if you're not a member of the IYHF. It opened in 2006, so it's new and fresh. Helpful staff.


  • First Hotel Garden, Baltzarsgatan 20, [42]. Central location, with a unique rooftop garden.
  • Elite Hotel Savoy, Norra Vallgatan 62. Central location opposite train station. Comfortable traditional hotel. Breakfast is a very relaxed affair!
  • Scandic S:t Jörgen, Stora Nygatan 35, [43]. A nice building with views over the Gustav Adolfs Torg market square and the famous Hansa shopping mall.


  • SAS Radisson, Östergatan 10, [44]. Central location, and very comfortable. Bedrooms are suite-sized, and include office area and living area, free Wi-fi and Internet. Breakfast is not served after 10.00am on weekdays!
  • Hilton Malmo City [45], Triangeln 2. A gigantic edifice towering over the Triangeln shopping center.


Stay safe

By the locals, Malmö is sometimes called "Sweden's Chicago". Street crime has become a problem, but the offenders and victims are usually young people.

The biggest problem facing a tourist is the unregulated taxi market. There are many instances of tourists being charged exorbant prices by unscrupulous taxi drivers. To avoid this happening to you, stick to the well known companies like 171717, 232323, Taxi Skåne, Taxi kurir etc. Avoid unmarked taxis (there is a small risk that the driver will rob or rape you, especially if you are a single, drunk woman). Always ask for the price of your trip before getting in.


Get out

The Öresundsbron between Malmö and Copenhagen
Skånetrafiken's Around the Sound (Öresund Rundt) ticket is a great way to see the surrounding region of Scania as well as North Zealand, Denmark (including Copenhagen). For 199 SEK, you get unlimited train travel and one ferry trip, for two days.


This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!