Pembwe and the Southeast : Kilwa
Kilwa is a city in Southeast Tanzania.
Kilwa Masoko sprang up as the market town associated with the thriving Arab city-state of Kilwa Kisiwani on the large island surrounded by the Kilwa Bay. Over time the city-state collapsed and the brunt of the population moved off the island to Kilwa Masoko. Kilwa Kivinji is an pleasant Swahili town smaller and politically less important than Kilwa Masoko about 20km away. Today Kilwa Masoko is the capital of the Kilwa district in the Lindi region. Most visitors stay in Kilwa Masoko and use it as a base for visiting the other two Kilwas
At the present time Coastal Aviation offer a request basis stop off in Kilwa on their flights to Mafia. Flight times are: Dar to Kilwa Daily depart 10:30 arrive 11:40 Via Mafia 250$ per person Kilwa to Dar Daily depart 11:50 arrive 13:00 Via Mafia 250$ per person Please note minimum people required is two
The road is progressing from Dar Es Salaam with only 25km of road still under construction. This one stretch takes about one and a half hours and the remaining 300km takes between 3 and 4 hours. It is estimated that the road will be fully tarred by the end of 2012 check  for monthly road updates.
Buses run daily from both the north and south. From the north (Dar) big buses leave around 6am from Mbagala bus station. The companies running change regularly check with your lodge on the latest most reliable, the buses with four seats in a row are significantly more comfortable than the ones with five seats in a row & if heading south get a seat on the right hand side to avoid the sun and vice versa if from the north. It's best to book at least a day in advance. These buses will drop you off at Kilwa Masoko, however buses later on in the day to Lindi and other southern towns can drop you at Nangurukuru which is about 30km from Kilwa. From Nangurukuru you can get a minibus, shared taxi or private taxi to either Kilwa Masoko or Kilwa Kivinje.
From the south (Mtwara, Mikindani and Lindi) buses depart both towns at 6am and it takes about 4 or 5 hours, the road is paved all the way. These buses will also drop you off at Nangurukuru (see above).
Most hotels will arrange pick-up from the airport.
To get from Kilwa Masoko to Kilwa Kisiwani you will need to take a boat. Up market hotels will organise this for you (and charge you) alternatively you can organise this yourself as there are boats waiting at the dock that you can charter. Expect to pay around 10'000/- to 15'000/- for a sailing boat to drop you off, wait and then return you to Kilwa Masoko - more for a boat with an engine. If you don't speak Swahili you can hire a guide (who you will probably want to show you around the ruins) who should also take care of this, but bear in mind that the guide may not always try to get you the best price.
To get between Kilwa Masoko and Kilwa Kivinji there are shared taxis regularly, although if you turn up they will probably insist that you have to hire a private taxi or you will have to wait hours and hours. If you politely decline and offer to wait they usually leave every half an hour or so.
All three towns are small enough that the best way to get around them is by food (although see the safety section). There are a number of taxis and tuktuks (bajaji) around town if the heat is too much for you.
The fantastic ruins on Kilwa Kisiwani (which means "Kilwa of the Island"), a UNESCO world heritage site . Most hotels will provide you with a boat to the island and a guide. Guides with detailed knowledge of the history and archaeology are sometimes hard to find (but they ARE around)ask at the tourist inforation in town, but there are extremely informative signs to help you out if your guide only knows the location of each of the ruins and not the story behind them. There is also a useful book available with the history of the island and a detailed description of the ruins, which makes a good guide and a nice keepsake. See the Wikipedia page for more information.
The town of Kilwa Kivinji is less popular than the other two Kilwas but it is a charming, sleepy Swahili town, much of it built in the traditional style out of traditional coral-rag. It doesn't have the 'sights' of Kilwa Kisiwani but it is a pleasant town in it's own right and well worth a day trip from Kilwa Masoko.
Kilwa Guide's Top 10 in Kilwa
Top 10 Things To Do In Kilwa
Explore the Ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Snorkel or dive on untouched virgincoral reefs and have a chance to see some of the rarer rays, whale sharks & dolphins
Explore the inland waterways and mangrove forests for hippos, crocs and the elusive dugong!
Feast on the Indian Ocean's greatest seafood - lobster, prawns, octopus,crab & calamari all caught fresh that day
Catch your own meal - either sport fishing or with a local fisherman teaching you authentic methods
Go further afield and visit the Selous Game Reserve - Tanzania's largest protected area
Visit Kilwa Kivinje - once the German administrative capital for the region and now a peaceful fishing village
Explore Masoko town a typical relaxed Tanzanian coastal town, filled with friendly people & a bustling market
Visit the KIYODEA Research Centre,a local NGO running volunteer experiences & scientific research at their base on Masoko pwani
Almost all visitors choose to stay in Kilwa Masoko (there is no accommodation on Kilwa Kisiwani, there are a couple of budget options in Kilwa Kivinji) all the options below are in Kilwa Masoko.
Budget (prices in TSH)
M: +255-(0)-784-624-664 Prices are by room based on occupancy: room with 1 person is $100 w/ full board, room with 4 people is $190 w/full board, therefore a good choice for families!
Mostly caters to sport fishermen from Europe and South Africa. Rooms are very simple, food very basic, bar is well stocked. Not the most inviting family spot. Prices are per person, per day, $80 for a "fishing banda" and $100 for "beachfront banda"
During the day walking around town should be safe but after dark significant caution should be advised. There have been a number of tourists mugged in recent years, always travel in groups or take a taxi / tuktuk (bajaji)
For up to the date information on Kilwa Masoko and the UNESCO WOrld heritage site of Kilwa Kisiwani - check out Kilwa-guide.com [www.kilwa-guide.com] a free travel resource for Kilwa.
There are daily minibuses leaving Kilwa Masoko for Lindi and Dar leaving early in the morning - buy your ticket in advance and (especially if going to Dar) try and sit as close to the front as possible.
It is possible to get a daladala / shared taxi / private taxi to Nangurukuru and try to pick up one of the larger buses going either north or south that pass by between 10am and 2pm but be warned that these buses are often full and you may find that you cannot get on one.