Kaifeng (开封; Kāifēng) is on the southern bank of the Yellow River in northern Henan Province.
The city was the capital of China during several dynasties, and was visited by Marco Polo. Around 1,000 years ago, when it was the capital of the Song dynasty, Kaifeng was the most prosperous and busy city in China, even in the world.
Countless expats immigrated right here and lived their whole lives, especially Arabians and Persians, who afterwards formed a new ethnic group in China, named Hui (回族). Also jews settled in Kaifeng in the Bible Hutong (教经胡同; Jiaojing Hutong), still visited by tourists from israel.
The nearest airport is in Zhengzhou Xinzheng Airport (FTAT Code:CGO), an hour away and a ¥160 taxi ride. An alternative way from the airport to Kaifeng is to take a shuttle bus from just outside the arrival gate to Civil Aviation Hotel (民航大酒店）in Jinshui Road (¥15), then walk east for around 20 minutes to the mini bus station Deyi Bus Station (德亿汽车站） from where you can take a bus to near Kaifeng Railway Staion (¥7).
Kaifeng is on the Shanghai-Xi'an line. Hard seat tickets may be difficult to obtain but next day (or even same day) hard-sleeper tickets (from Shanghai, 12 hours, ¥216; from Xi'an, 7 hours, ¥140) are readily available outside peak periods. The train from Zhengzhou is around 45 minutes and costs ¥11-19.
There are buses to Kaifeng from other places in Henan, including from Zhengzhou Long-Distrance Bus Station and Luoyang Long Distance Bus Station.
Taxis are ¥5 for the first 3km and ¥1 for each additional kilometer. Rides within the city will not exceed ¥10.
Local buses go everywhere within the city and cost ¥1. Bus 20 is a sightseeing bus going to all the major sights.
One very good way to get around Kaifeng and see the sites is to take a rickshaw.
Landmarks and buildings
- Daiangguo Temple (大相国寺; Dàxiāngguósì; lit. Temple of the Chief Minister), Ziyou Road (Bus 9 or 20). This temple was first built AD555 during the Qi Dynasty with new buildings added in 1661 and 1766. The entire complex has 64 temples but the three main halls are of the greatest interest. The large rectangular Tathagata Hall (Daxiongbaodian) is where monks perform daily chanting rituals in front of three huge Buddhas. In the middle is an impressive bronze Sakyamuni, left is Amitabha and right is the Medicine Buddha, each with a silk hood surrounding their head. At the back of the three Buddhas is a Goddess of Mercy standing on a dragon's head and flanked by a various golden figures. Rising behind them to the roof are a multitude of heavenly figures supported on clouds. Along the side are sculptures of some peculiar looking Arhats; look for the one with an abnormally long arm reaching almost to the roof. The octagonal Arhat Hall (Louhandian) is beautifully constructed with upturned eaves and painted roof beams. The hall houses a four-sided golden Avalokitesavara said to be carved from a single tree. She has six main arms, one set holding aloft a Buddha and 1000 other arms radiating outward with an eye in each palm. The rear Tripitaka Hall has two floors, the upper holding sutras and the lower a white Burmese jade Buddha in the Burmese style and a glass replica of the Emerald Buddha in Thailand’s Grand Palace. Unfortunately, all halls have a No Photo policy. ¥30.
- Baogong Memorial Temple, (At the bank of Baogong Lake, buses 1 and 20). 8AM-5:30PM. Temple built to honor Lord Bao. ¥20.
- Yanqing Taoist Temple, Western end of Dazhifang Street. A small temple containing a two-story pagoda with a beautiful blue glazed tile balcony and painted carvings on the front gate. It appeared to be closed for restoration at last visit. (02/09) ¥15.
- Shudian Jie (Bookstore Street). Running north from Gulou Square this busy street is lined with a mix of old wooden and newer concrete buildings in various styles. Originally called Big Store Street in the Ming Dynasty it was renamed Bookstore Street in the Qing Dynasty when it became the center for shops selling books, paper and pens. Carved doors, shuttered windows and painted roof beams peek out from between oversized billboards but there is still plenty of facade remaining visible to give a feeling of the old street.
- Dragon Pavilion, Northern end of Zhongshan Road. The area around Dragon Pavilion was the site if the Ming dynasty palace of Prince Zhou. At the southern end of the street leading to Dragon Pavilion stands a reconstructed Wu gate. The remainder of the street is lined with many old buildings. In the late Ming period the palace was destroyed by floods, leaving only the foundations buried 5m under modern Kaifeng, however the city walls were later built along the same axis. A long bridge divides Yangjia Lake leading to the pavilion itself. Much the same views of the pavilion and lake can be seen by walking around the right side of the lake (without buying a ticket) as from inside the park. ¥35.
- Iron Pagoda, Next to North Gate on Jiefeng Road. Built in 1049 the 13 story octagonal pagoda is said to be the most famous pagoda in China. It got its name in Yuan Dynasty due the brown glazed tile covering its exterior giving the appearance of iron. It is still in good condition and can be climbed using the internal stairs. There is a Buddhist temple located near the pagoda. ¥20.
- The city wall. Surrounding the city is the old city walls punctuated at various points with gates. Of most interest are the North gate and Little South gate on either end of Jiefeng Road that resemble the arched gates in Xi'an. The other gates are merely gaps in the wall.
- Kaifengfujian Street (Kaifeng Tourist Theme Park). Set on the edge of Baogong Lake this new construction is supposed to be a recreation of old Kaifeng and is of little interest unless you are into hourly parades of people dressed up like Song dynasty officials. ¥50.
Parks and nature
- Banjiang Park, Next to Xinkai Gate. Just outside the city walls at XinKai Gate, a large statue of a heroic looking Mao fronts this unremarkable park. Inside are various gardens, statues and a rusting ferris wheel. ¥10.
- Millennium City Park (清明上河园; Qīngmíngshànghéyuán), 5 Longting West Road, Longting District (龙亭区龙亭西路5号; Lóngtíngqū Lóngtíngxīlù) (Bus 1, 15, 20), ☎ +86 378 5663819, . 9AM-10PM. This park is based on a Song Dynasty painting called Going Upriver for Qingming Festival. It illustrates Song Dynasty daily life, shops and workshops. ¥80.
- Cooking Museum, (On the West Gate).
- Kaifeng Museum (开封博物馆; Kāifēng Bówùguǎn), 26 Yingbin Road (迎宾路26号; Yíngbīnlù) (Next to Baogong Lake, bus 1, 4 or 9), ☎ +86 378 3933624 ([email protected]), . Tu-Su 8:30AM-11:30AM, 2PM-5PM. Exhibits on Kaifeng's history in first half of 1900s as well as Kaifeng's period as capital of Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). ¥10.
- Walk inside the wall. Take a walk along the inside of the wall between Xinkai Gate and Song Gate to see houses made from bricks scavenged from the wall.
- Chrysanthemum Festival. Each autumn.
- Yellow River, (Besides taxis, there is a city bus which leaves from near the Iron Pagoda park).
You will find a lot of snack stands around, which include Sandao (made of flour, bee honey, sugar and stuff), peanut cake, sesame cake etc. There are also many other cheap options.
- Night Market, Gulou Square (Gulou Guangchang) (In the center of the city). Wonderful selection of foods.
- Simen (四门儿). This is one of the many Muslim restaurants in the city. The mutton soup is just perfectly boiled, try it for breakfast during the winter.
- Diyilou Restaurant. A famous place to get the Kaifeng specialty, baozi, in best quality. These baozi contains soup, so be careful when eating them.
- Nanyangshi (南羊市), (Opposite No. 7 Middle School). Serves hula soup, which is the main choice of breakfast for the locals (other similar food stands are almost everywhere). They only serve in the morning time should it be sunny.
- No. 3 Chemical Factory (化三). This food might make you guys feel weird, but it is highly recommended. This is a donkey meat soup shop. Buy it, sit there, close your eyes if you really doubt its taste, and eat! Don't worry, the bosses of the soup shop and the chemical factory do not know each other.
Taiwan style milk tea stands in Bookstore Street (Shudian Jie).
- Hangtian Night Club. Karaoke, disco and billards.
- Zuitaibei, Drum Tower Square, ☎ +86 378 5251619. Soft music and dance.
- Dajintai Binguan, Gulou Jie. Located in the large gray-brick building with red lanterns hanging along the front. Friendly English speaking staff and comfortable rooms make it the ideal budget place. Rooms look a bit run down but are clean and the central heating is very welcome in the winter. The attached ‘business center’ is very useful for photocopying (¥0.5 per page) and email (¥3 p/hour) Dorm ¥60 with free breakfast.
- Jin Xue Hotel. A few doors south of the PSB on ZhongShan Lu. This new hotel is no-frills, but comfortable. Standard ¥80-¥98.
- Bai Yun Hotel, 101 South Zhongshan Road, ☎ 0378-5968568. Jason "The Rickshaw man" negotiated 100RMB for me. Located in the center of the city. Walking distance to the night market.
- New Century Grand Hotel Kaifeng (开封开元名都大酒店), 开发区大梁路人民检察院对面, ☎ +86 378 3399999 (fax: +86 378 3398888). Five star hotel with rooms with free internet. Listed rates for doubles ¥1,280-2,280, inluding breakfast.
Small town with mainly Karaoke Bar and restaurant to hang out. You can get a taxi ride to the "Huang He" (Yellow River) which is quite near from Kaifeng.
By train or bus, the bus station is across the street from the train Station.