Juchitán de Zaragoza
A typical Mexican city with a lively market and a rough and ready feel to it. In the evenings, the town comes alive to a riot of squawking, thanks to thousands of noisy Rooks that flock to the trees around the plazas, giving the peublo something of a comic atmosphere, to say the least. Aside from that, for the traveler, the main reason to visit might be to break the journey to Chiapas, or simply because few other gringos do.
Oaxaca is around 4.5 hours away (M$230.00), and Tuxtla Gutiérrez (for Chiapa de Corzo) is between 4 and 5 hours (M$222.00), making Juchitan an obvious place to break the journey, however, most people seem to opt for a night bus, but then you miss out on some breathtaking scenery. Coming from Tuxtla, there is an obvious change in scenery between Chiapas and Oaxaca, and a feeling of entering Mexico "proper".
You can walk around by foot or use the shared taxis that ply Calle 5 - from the bus station, just walk a block away and flag down a taxi - it should be M$5.00 for a colectivo or M$25.00 for a private hire. If your feeling lazy, you could also flag a passing tuktuks, there are plenty buzzing around.
Around the main plaza is a lively market, there are many festivals and celebrations. Juchitan has a strong and vibrant Muxe community--cisgender men who dress in traditionally female attire who may or may not transition to a woman full-time. There a few churches around, if you have not yet seen enough of them.
Break the journey between Tuxtla and Oaxaca and see a Mexican pueblo that other gringos rarely visit. In May, there is Fiesta de las Velas, with a large procession to honor a patron saint.
As usual, around the main plaza are stands offering the usual array of Mexican fare and street food. Limited options for veggies. On the Benito Juarez side of the plaza is a more upmarket restaurant in a fake colonial house. El Jardin on Calle 5 de Mayo is another option.
Opposite the main plaza (left side if arriving from the bus station) look out for women mixing broth in large pots. It is a drink known locally as "Bopo". It is brown and foamy, and made from pulped Caucau and other veggies. Served in clay pots, it is somewhere between sweet and savory, and might be said to be an acquired taste.
The street for bars is Calle 5 de Mayo - a block towards the river from the plaza. El Zocalo, on this street, can be a fun night - a jukebox, big tubes of beer and endless snack possibilities.
Due to a lack of attention from tourists, both Mexican or foreign, Juchitan is not exactly packed with accommodation options and will feel overpriced compared to San Cristobal, etc. There are no youth hostels at time of writing.
- Posada 5 Mayo, Calle 5 Mayo (Five minutes walking from the station, ask for directions.). checkin: Anytime; checkout: 10.00 a.m. Budget option from 100.00 upwards. Has a narrow courtyard with facing rooms. Rather dirty, sagging mattresses but cheap. Rooms have prison style toilets, so hopefully you are on intimate terms with your roommate. edit
- Casa de Huespedes, Main Plaza (Hard to find but great location smack bang on the main plaza). Great location and cheap, starting 120.00 for a single. Ask some locals for directions once you are in the main plaza. Rooms are of the stained concrete rabbit hutch variety. edit
- Hotel Malla, (Next to the bus station). Rooms have cable TV, hot water and rooms with A/C are available. Is on main road so could get noisy. You´re probably best heading to the main plaza, as it is only five minutes by collective taxi. M$250.00 for a single. edit
- <sleep name="Hotel Lidxi Na Auria" alt="" address="Calle 5 de Mayo 60" directions="A few blocks from the plaza" phone="" url="" checkin="" checkout="" price="M$400.00 for a single" lat="" long="">Rooms have cable TV, hot water and A/C.
You can find internet and public telephones around the main plaza. Ask for directions.
Get a collective taxi to the OCC/SUD bus station, which serves many destinations around south Mexico. You can even get a night-bus to Cancun. Check times of departure when you arrive.
To go to Santo Domingo Tehuantepec you can take a autobus for MEX$50 (30 minutes)
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