Jinotega

Jinotega is in Nicaragua.

Jinotega is the city center of Nicaragua's northern region by the same name which produces 80% of the nation's coffee. Not often visited by foreigners, it has a population of about 20,000 living inside a vast bowl formed by the surrounding mountains – perhaps the width of 200X100 soccer fields. It is known as "La Ciudad de las Brumas" or "City of the Mists" for the magnificent whisks of clouds continuously feathering through the top of the bowl.

The Jinotega region was perhaps the most war-torn region in the Nation's Century. Its remote location provided a haven for rebellious forces throughout the last two previous centuries. It's safe now, in fact you can visit the countryside without a problem if you wish, just find a guide. This will bring you to a corner of the world English speakers seldom see.

When to visit

Certainly the most adventurous time to visit is during the coffee season - December through February. You'll see trucks barelling in and out of the city on the north side, men hauling coffee in on their backs in a frantic scurry. Compared to cities such as Managua and Chinandega, which can be exceedingly hot all year round, Jinotega's climate is relatively pleasant due to its higher elevation.

Get in

From Managua there are direct buses several times a day. If taking a taxi, ask for bus terminal Mayoreo or simply for the terminal from where the Jinotega buses leave. At the Mayoreo terminal there is a counter where you can purchase your tickets to Jinotega. Bus fare is C$70, or about $4. The expressos are nice because they make fewer stops and you don't have to change busses in Matagalpa.

Also you can arrive from other towns in the north such as Matagalpa or Esteli (via Matagalpa or via a northern route).

Get around

Taxis are prevelent and cost C$6 ($0.35) per person anywhere in town. Fares are around C$10 at night.

See

From within Jinotega you can see Peña de La Cruz, a hill with a cross at the top. The location provides splendid views of the Jinotega valley and surrounding mountains. At the base of Peña de La Cruz within Jinotega there is a cemetery. Cross through the cemetery, stopping to ask where the "sendero" or trail to the cross is located. The journey to the top is steep at times, taking about 30-60 minutes. At the top there is a cool, refreshing breeze.

Do

Of course you can hike to the famous cross, or there are trails in the hills opposite the cross. Many locals go swimming in lake Apanas or its sorounding creeks, but the water isn't the cleanest. You can join the locals and play a game of soccer or baseball. There are several sites around town if you just want to walk around. Also check out some of the restaurants listed here, whoever wrote that section did a good job.

In general Jinotega has a small town feel with not a lot of things to do. The people are friendly but more reserved than you will find in the bigger cities of Nicaragua.

Buy

If you need something, first check the Everything for $1 (More or Less) store north of the cathederal a couple blocks. They have tools, shampoo, candles, mugs, etc. If they don't have it, try the more expensive stores like Tienda Rossy, south of the cathederal, or, Almacen Gloria, at the north-west corner of the Union Park. There are a million other little stores too. Just walk around and ask until you find what you need. Pali is going to be your closest thing to a supermarket here. The markets here are excellent, really worth an afternoon wanderings, especially the 'food court' authentic yet surprisingly flavoursome local cuisine for 30cords and up. Also on the far side of the markets close to Pauli, a few great cowboy bars with lots of great local personalities and with visiting street sellers the shops come to you.

Eat

• La Perrera, 3km outside of town on the Matagalpa highway, is by far the best. Expect to pay C$50-140 for good food, some of which is Italian. The taco salad is excellent (and cheap!) if you're sick of iceberg lettuce--they grow their own with good varieties brought from the States. Catch any bus before 6:00 there for C$5 and ask them when you can catch a bus back to town. Walking down is dangerous, I've been told, but it's also beautiful when the stars are out!

• Also quite good is Roca Rancho, which looks like it would be a crazy cabana bar, but is quite tame (read: dead) most nights of the week. Decent live music and cheap Victorias can be had on Thursday nights starting about 7:30pm. The Diablito is a nice appetizer experience and I've enjoyed their fajita chicken and bocitos de pollo.

• Restaurante el Cony Instead of the fish soup (a fish in a la soup), try their chuleta de pollo a la plancha wasn't bad and they have some neat historical photos of Jinotega. From the rotary, head west, through the narrow alley that runs on the north side of the river, and then keep going west.

• Everyone talks about Soda El Tico, but it is hit and miss. They have decent breakfasts and some go there to enjoy a cheeseburger. Ask them to give you more than three french fries. The vaca negra is a cool way to end the meal.

• La Colmena is supposed to be the nicest restaurant in town, but it's gone downhill. If you're going for expensive, heavy meats, try Restaurante El Tico instead. The filet mignon there is quite good. It comes with four french fries. Father and son own Soda and Restaurante.

• Hotel Cafe seems overpriced and very ordinary.

For quick lunches, try the tacos at Cafeteria Trebol, on the north side of the central park, with orange-carrot refresco and fruit salad afterwards. Across the street from Soda el Tico is Buffet el Buen Sazon, which is typical but very good. They have a nice salad selection. The pico de gallo and tortilla chips are a treat! There's also Comedor Chavarra near Soppexcca, a block west and a couple south. Same food as you get cheaper in the market, but you can eat it without smoke inhalation.

For a cheap afternoon snack, Pizza Movil Express in the central park is better than Chaba's Pizza and at C$10 a slice, much cheaper too. They're open roughly 3PM-9PM.

For a good burger and beer in town (La Pererra has excellent ones), Country Burger, a few blocks north of Esso Central, gives you one with lots of veggies and decent (non-limp) fries.

The pharmacy south of the cathederal has Cadbury chocolate. For the same price you can pick some up at Castillo de Cacao in Matagalpa. The Eskimo parlor is nice when you want an ice cream cone. There's a newer, cheaper, and friendlier one just south of Punto Moda.

Drink

Roca Rancho has C$12 Victorias and live music on Thursday nights starting at 8PM.

Soppecxxa is a good coffee shop that is popular with the few extranjeros in town. Its two blocks ?west? from Supermarket Pali. Check out the bar map they have at La Biosfera Cloud forest retreatTwiggy295 15:30, 13 August 2009 (EDT), 4kms out of town, it lists all the great bars in Jinotega a very entertaining day out.

Sleep

Hotels run from $4 to $100 a night and are easy to come by.

• If you brought more collared shirts than non-, stay at Hotel Café.

• If you have a beard, Chacos, and a ten-year-old Arc'teryx backpack, stay at Hotel Central.

Work

Of all of the places in Nicaragua to do volunteer work, Jinotega is perhaps the most worthy. Due to its problematic history Jinotega has suffered through a serious decline in infrastructure. Jinotega is a place largly forgotten by the outside world.

• AVODEC - the Association of Volunteers for the Development of Communities is a good NGO to visit. It's a small Nicaraguan-founded NGO focusing on sustainable development. It's about 4 blocks north of the Esso Central. Just ask your average Jinotegan where AVODEC is, they will probably know. A couple staff members there speak English.

Get out

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