Iya ValleyTokushima (prefecture) : Iya Valley
One of Japan's Three Hidden Valleys, Iya is home to dramatic mountain scenery, traditional thatched roof homes, and historic vine bridges. Supposedly a hiding place for the fleeing samurai of the defeated Heike clan from centuries past, the isolation of the Iya valley has a rich history of being a waypoint for wanderers and a place one could go to be away from it all. The valley was somewhat raised into the Japanese and Western consciousness by outspoken Japanese-culture conservationist Alex Kerr. His book Lost Japan (ISBN 0864423705) presented an idyllic picture of a misty valley stuck in a time warp to days gone by.
The Iya Valley offers a different facet of otherwise urban Japan and is a welcomed reprieve for visitors due to its fresh natural environment, slow country lifestyle, and friendly welcoming inhabitants. Simply put, Iya offers the roots of Japan. If merely listening to the grumbles of Kerr, someone may be inclined to think that Iya (like everywhere else) has been devoured by what he calls the Moloch (aesthetically challenged over-development) since his first encounter here in the early 1970's, but the reality is that most of the valley still remain remote, unspoiled, and traditional. One could say that the lifestyle and environment still maintained are about as far from Tokyo's Shinjuku as one could get yet still remain in the same country. And while sections of the rivers have been replaced by the usual concrete channels to prevent landslides, the single-lane road widened (in parts) to accommodate dual-direction traffic, and some mountainsides covered by uniform cedar for logging, the Iya Gorge section at the start of the valley remains unmarred by development, the overall natural splendor of the valley proves to be a great escape while soaking in the bounty of its hotsprings, the tall peaks offer some of the finest hiking in Shikoku, and many of the less-visited mountainside hamlets offer glimpses into a past way of life that somehow still clings on here even though it has utterly vanished elsewhere in Japan.
The valley is divided into halves (which together can take about 2 to 2.5 hours by car to traverse completely): the more visited and (slightly) more developed Nishi-Iya (西祖谷 West Iya); and the more remote Higashi-Iya (東祖谷 East Iya ), which is also known as Oku-Iya (奥祖谷 Deep Iya). There are dozens of small settlements going up the mountain sides (some of them abandoned) along the main road that connects the two halves. In the western half, the 'downtown' section of central Nishi-Iya is the most condensed as well as the tourist area around the Kazurabashi. The largest district on the eastern side (Higashi-Iya) is the town center of Kyojo (京上) where many of the town's facilities are located. The historic hamlet of Ochiai (落合) in the eastern part of Higashi-Iya is of significance as it was registered as an important national preservation district due to its collection of traditional homes, terraced farm plots, and ancient walking paths. The far off hamlet of Mi-no-Koshi (見ノ越) at the base of Mt. Tsurugi and the intersection of three main roads is popular with hikers but has only basic facilities.
Detailed free tourist maps are available at any tourist point in or near the valley. Printed by the local government and available in Japanese or English, this is an accurate road map with clear explanations for points of interest, trail-heads, and other less known landmarks. But be careful with using any brochure showing bus schedules, as many routes and times were changed in 2018 (avoid trusting any schedule printed before Dec 2018. See "Get In" and "Get Around" below for details about using buses.)
The local government's recently renewed Miyoshi City tourism webpage (including the Iya Valley) is available in English, Japanese, Chinese and Korean, though the information is not very detailed and has several inacuracies, especially with hiking. However, very thorough information in English about the Iya Valley can be found on the extensive Iyatime website, which also has lots of interactive maps detailing just about everywhere in the valley and around.
Money and CommunicationsEdit
The only banks in the Iya valley are through the Japan Post (JP) bank. There are three JP banks in Iya, which also serve as the post offices, located in central Nishi Iya (at corner of 'old' Rout 32 and Route 45), in the Kyojo area of central Higashi Iya (at the town office building) and a small JP branch office in Ochiai (on the main road). The counters hold regular office hours (Mon-Fri, 9-5pm) but do not do international currency exchange. The ATMs are available 9am to 6pm on weekdays and till 5pm Saturday and 2pm Sundays/holidays. Foreign bank cards are accepted at the ATMs. There are no other ATMs in Iya, nor is there anywhere to exchange cash. The closest currency exchange would be in the major cities (Kochi, Takamatsu, etc) and the closest 24hour ATM would be at the 7/11 in the WestWest rest stop in Koboke.
Most larger hotels accept credit cards, however just about anywhere else does not. So be sure to have yen available.
Practically all inhabited areas in the valley are covered by good cell phone service, however many mountain trails and peaks will have limited or no reception. Pay phones (coin and card) are scattered here and there, usually in the more condensed areas. There are no internet cafes nor library with computers available, and few hotels (if any) offer computers to use. WiFi is sometimes available for use in bigger hotels, and the town has made a push in recent years to start introducing free WiFi hot-spots in common tourist areas.
Getting in no longer requires a week of hiking along misty mountain trails, but it certainly remains a bit more difficult than most Japanese destinations.
There are four airports on Shikoku Island, and the central location of the Iya valley makes all of them viable options if you intend to include other sights in Shikoku. Cars can be rented at any airport.
The closest airport to the Iya valley would be Kochi Airport (total 1.5 hours to Oboke via airport shuttle bus with express train) though the flight options are limited (mainly just Osaka and Tokyo).
Takamatsu Airport has more flight options, including international routes, and is about 2 hours away by shuttle bus and train to Oboke.
Tokushima Airport, though in the same prefecture as the Iya Valley, is actually fairly far and has only a limited amount of flight destinations. Expect 2.5 to 3 hours by bus/train combo.
And Matsuyama Airport has the most flight options, both domestic and international, but is the farthest of the bunch. Plan on at least 3 hours by public transport or a bit faster if driving and taking the highways.
For real international connections, Kansai Airport near Osaka is the way to go. Buses go from central Osaka to Awa-Ikeda station several times a day (4 hours).
The nearest train station to the main sights of the Iya Valley is at Oboke, which is along the JR Dosan Line between Kochi and Takamatsu. There are several local trains to Oboke throughout the day, and hourly express trains from either Kochi city or from Awa-Ikeda (connecting to Okayama/Takamatsu or Tokushima city.) The hourly Nanpu which runs from Okayama stops here (1 3/4 hours, ¥4410).
From Oboke you can connect to a bus up the mountain and through a tunnel into Nishi-Iya, but services are infrequent: there are up to eight buses per day on weekends only in the high season (April-Nov), and as few as four per day the rest of the time. Taxis from the station can also be arranged but prices are not cheap since the drives to points in the valley can be far.
For those looking to enter into the lower reaches of the valley (Iya Gorge, Matsuogawa Onsen, Iya-Kei Camp Village) one can instead get off at Iyaguchi Station (祖谷口駅) for more direct access, and hitch a ride or take one of the few daily buses that pass through the lower valley from here.
Long distance night buses to/from Tokyo stop at the Miyoshi Highway Bus Stop (三好ＢＳ), which is in neighboring Highashi Miyoshi-cho Town at the Yoshino River Service Area rest stop, about 15 minutes or so east of central Ikeda by car. This bus stop is not a final destination, but rather a stop along the way with buses traveling between Tokyo and Kochi city. For more info, see the bus access listing on the Ikeda page.
There are several buses daily from Ikeda's Awa Ikeda Bus Terminal (阿波池田ＢT), which pass by JR Awa-Ikeda Station (one minute away) and travel to the Iya valley. A few terminate in Deai (bottom of Iyakei Gorge area) and others go via Oboke into Nishi-Iya past the Kazurabashi Vine Bridge, and then continue all the way into Higashi-Iya and terminate in Kubo (久保). There are also other buses on weekends/holidays only that travel between JR Oboke station and the Kazurabashi only.
Caution: In 2018 and 2019, several changes were made to buses servicing the Iya Valley. In particular, buses do not go from Ikeda all the way through the Iyakei Gorge anymore, and new routes have been added linking parts of the upper gorge to Oboke. It is advisable to not use any printed local schedule in English made before October 2019 (there are many in circulation offered by hotels and rest areas). Up to date timetables in Japanese only can be found at Yonkoh bus company website, but they use PDF documents which can not be translated easily. However, for accurate English schedules to, from, and within the Iya Valley that are regularly updated, check the IyaTime Bus Timetables
There are also several local municipal buses that are not operated by Yonkoh (so the schedules are not available on the Yonkoh website) and these give access and routes not offered by the main buses from Ikeda. Again, some of these times were changed in 2018. These are also available in English on IyaTime, where they are compiled together with the main Yonkoh buses and therefore easy for understanding connections.
A similar but even more restricted service is provided when coming from the north. Normally, the buses from JR Sadamitsu Station (貞光駅) do not run all the way towards the Iya Valley, but on weekends, holidays, and daily during various vacation weeks in the spring, summer, and autumn there is connecting service to Mi-no-Koshi at the trail head of Mt. Tsurugi. At other times, if you are heading to Mt. Tsurugi (剣山) from Sadamitsu (貞光), the regular (non-holiday/weekend) bus service along Route 438 goes only as far as the lower base of the mountain, and is a long way up. Coming from Mi-no-Koshi (見ノ越), figure on a four hour walk down the mountain to the bus stop there. Additionally, a similar service at similar times goes to JR Anabuki Station (穴吹駅). Details about these routes can be found in English on the IyaTime Bus Timetables.
Having a car for touring the Iya valley is probably the best for flexibility and convenience due to limited public transport. It is very much worth the cost of rental, and it may even be cheaper than using a bus if more than one person is traveling. See "Get around" for some rental options.
If you have your own set of wheels or want to try your luck hitchhiking, Route 438 from Sadamitsu and Route 439 from Anabuki connect directly into Higashi-Iya if your destination is Mi-no-Koshi (for Mt. Tsurugi), and offer the fastest route if arriving from Tokushima and Kansai. Along the way, try some delicious hand-made udon noodles (手打ちうどん) at the restaurant beside the river. Note that traffic is very light, especially on weekdays, and the roads are quite narrow and twisty.
If coming via Ikeda or Kochi, (or if from Tokushima/Kansai and you are not planning to first go to Mi-no-Koshi/Mt. Tsurugi), then the fastest option is drive north/south along Route 32 to enter the valley via Oboke along Route 45. In central Nishi-Iya Route 45 has a junction near the gas station with 'old' Route 32 (yes, the numbers are the same, but the roads are different), allowing one to turn left for the Iya gorge and Iya Onsen, or turn right for the Kazurabashi and Higashi Iya (Kyojo, Ochiai, Oku-Iya, Mt.Tsurugi).
It is also possible to drive the entire length of the Iya valley from Iyaguchi along 'old' Route 32 (turn off main Route 32 to follow the signs for Deai). This road is not for the faint of heart, as it is mostly one lane, very twisty, and often on the side of steep cliffs, though the scenery is breathtaking and the gorge here is almost completely undeveloped. Until a generation ago, this was the main way into the valley. About half-way you can also stop at the famous Peeing Boy statue, or ride down to the bottom via cable car for a riverside bath at the Iya Onsen.
For travelers from Kochi, it is not necessarily advised to take Route 439 from Otoyo, as the road is very twisty and goes over a mountain pass (Kyobashira-toge), which all together can take 30 minutes to an hour longer to get destinations in the valley (though the views are indeed quite pleasant).
Parking is free nearly everywhere in the Iya Valley with the single exception being the main Kazurabashi (vine bridge) in Nishi Iya. The large parking complex charges 300yen.
Although options are limited (and confusing), going deep into the valley is possible by bus, but one must have both patience and an attention to making a realistic schedule. The information center outside JR Awa-Ikeda Train Station has some English brochures including one on exploration by public transport, though be careful if you find here or anywhere with anything printed before December 2018 in regards to bus times since schedules and routes have changed.
For travel by bus within the lower Iya Valley, the areas of the Iyakei Gorge, Nishi-Iya, and Kazurabashi are serviced by buses to/from Ikeda or Oboke as well as some local municipal buses. See Get In for details on these services.
For travel deeper into the valley into Higashi-Iya, four of the daily buses from Ikeda continue past the Nishi-Iya Kazurabashi and onward to Kyojo, Ochiai and finally terminate in Kubo. But if looking to go further, don't despair! It is possible to ride on a local municipal bus (also serving as the school bus) to points deeper and occasionally as far as Minokoshi (Mt. Tsurugi base) at the farthest edge of the valley. Be sure to state your destination to the driver when getting on to be sure that it is the correct bus.
This local municipal bus begins/ends in Kyojo and runs daily all year as far as Nagoro (Scarecrow Village). Between April and November some buses continue on to the Oku-Iya Kazurabashi and Minokoshi (on weekends and holiday periods only including several full weeks at various times of the year).
For local bus schedules in English check the IyaTime Bus Timetables.
Note: The local buses to the Oku-Iya Kazurabashi run from April 1 to the end of November, and buses to Minokoshi run from mid-April to the end of November. These buses are on Saturday, Sunday and national holidays only during this time. However, they do run daily during the Golden Week period (usually around April 25 to May 10), during the summer holiday period (usually around July 21 to August 31), and the autumn leaf viewing period (usually October 5 to November 6). But these dates are subject to change each year so be sure to check before riding.
By rental carEdit
To get the most out of your experience in the Iya Valley, it is highly recommended to have your own vehicle.
Car rental is available in Ikeda at the Awa-Ikeda train station. Ask at the tourist office just outside for information on rentals. Descent English is spoken by staff here.
To Coo! in an English language online rental service that works in accordance with many major car rental agencies and offers good discounts beyond what one my find from the actual agency websites. Car rental is available from the major Shikoku cities and airports, with prices starting about 4000-5000yen per day.
For online bookings with larger agencies, one would have to go to the airports or major cities on Shikoku.
One unique and flexible option is Budget Rent-a-Car's Shikoku Pilgrimage Passport (四国巡礼パスポート) allowing 9, 12, and 15-day rental plans where you can either use all the days at once, or split the rental days into various trips within a one year period. Better still, with this plan cars can be picked up and dropped off at any Budget office in Shikoku or Okayama (on Honshu) for no additional cost. Nine day plans start at 37,800yen for a small car. Though Budget Japan's website offers English service, the page for this option is in Japanese only, so for English it would be better to call and reserve by phone.
The Kazurabashi Taxi Company ( tel: 0883-87-2013 [email protected] ) is based in Nishi-Iya and can provide service to/from Oboke Station or to/from other sights anywhere in the valley. Prices start at 4300yen per hour.for up to four people and 6500yen for up to nine people. They also offer tourist route courses, with a Nishi-Iya course starting at 7800yen (2.5 hours) and a Higashi-Iya course at 20,300yen (6 hours).
It is possible to cycle the Iya Valley, but you'll need a good bike (you can carry bicycles on Japanese trains if you put them in a bike bag), a healthy pair of lungs and a genuine sense of adventure. Bring water, as even the normally ubiquitous vending machines can prove few and far between in the Iya Valley. Reduce your speed when on narrow roads with limited visibility, use the posted mirrors to see around corners, and keep as far to the left as possible. Most of the locals are cautious drivers. If you make it to Tsurugi-san, you can turn left onto the road leading to Sadamitsu Town, which is a breathtaking 25-km downhill of switchbacks, little crumbling villages and stunning river vistas.
It is also possible to join the Tour de Nishi Awa, which is a large bicycle rally held every spring that traverses different sections of the Iya Valley and its mountain passes. http://tour-de-nishiawa.com/index.html (Their webpage has plenty of photos and videos showing what kind of road conditions to expect).
Distances are far in the Iya valley, so it may be best to try your luck at hitchhiking along the main road. As there are practically no sidewalks, be careful of vehicles barreling around turns. There are plenty of footpaths both through the hamlets and up into the mountains so one does not need to walk only on main roads. Most hamlet paths are for open public use even though many seem to go through people's property. Be sure to use courtesy if walking along a path close to someone's house, and only photograph people and homes with permission. As the roads up mountains are steep, there are many switchbacks and sharp curves, but these often have shortcut footpaths that bisect the hair-pin turns.
Single-day or multi-day ridge-line hikes are rewarding, allowing one to begin/end in different areas, though accessing and exiting trail heads can be tricky due to limited public transportation. (see Do for details.)
Though the Iya Valley is located in southern Japan, the temperature can be significantly lower than the rest of Shikoku, especially as one gains elevation.
Spring comes later to Iya than to the rest of Shikoku, but the clear air allows for long views. Daytimes can get pleasantly warm, allowing for great hiking weather, but the temperature drops considerably in the evenings, with freezing temperatures not uncommon overnight into early May on higher mountain tops. Trees begin to sprout leaves by mid April in most parts, but Mt. Tsurugi won't gain leaves till a month or so later. Rain is somewhat infrequent in the spring, but by early June the rainy season will begin.
The lower reaches near Iyaguchi can have almost the same hot, heavy humidity in the summer as anywhere else, but by the time one gets to Nishi Iya (and more so in Higashi-Iya) the air becomes noticeably more pleasant and less thick/humid during the daytime, allowing for a welcomed escape from just about anywhere in Shikoku. Evenings are often markedly different in the summer from the coastal cities in the region, as the forests and mountain breezes drop the temperature, making one enjoy being outside and offering great sleeping weather. A light jacket may even be needed if camping. June and early July are often rainy (though the moisture can bring fantastic fog formations that whisk up from the bottom of the valley), and the increased humidity through the season sometimes limit the extent of mountain top views. Mid-July and August have only sporadic rain, but by the end of the summer and early autumn the chance of a typhoon hitting increases, which can wreck havoc in the valley. Landslides are not uncommon during downpours, winds are ferocious, and hiking can be very dangerous in forests due to falling trees. If a typhoon is coming, its time to buckle down in a safe place and wait for it to pass.
The air clears up nicely as the leaves begin to change (though typhoons still occur, see above), allowing for long views through the valley. Leaves in the upper reaches near Mt. Tsurugi start to change around early-October, and the majority of the valley is in full splendor through much of November. This is a popular time to visit, and the weekends and public holidays then bring an increased number of visitors to the valley. On the mountain tops, snow will begin to fall as early as the beginning of November.
Winters in Iya are cold. From central Nishi-Iya upwards snow can occur anytime from December to March, making roads difficult to drive on for those inexperienced in snow. In the central valley (Nishi-Iya area up towards Kyojo) the snow is usually not so heavy and melts within a day or two. As one gets farther east moving past Kyojo and/or up into the hamlets along the valley sides, the amount of snow will increase noticeably during and just after storms. By Nagaro and the Oku-Iya double vine bridges the the snow will linger through most of the winter, with the mountain tops (above 1200m) continually blanketed through the season. Most roads are not plowed, including the main road, so be ready to drive on snow if a storm has just occurred. The roads to Mt. Tsurugi are usually passable, and hikers will still blaze a trail to the summit and other popular mountain tops year-round. Most campgrounds close for the winter, and some facilities in the Oku-Iya area (including practically everything in Mi-no-Koshi) close for the season as well. Check ahead for time tables.
Vine bridges (Kazurabashi)Edit
Iya's best-known attractions are the precarious-looking vine bridges (かずら橋 kazurabashi), which used to be the only way to cross the river. There are two sets, a single bridge in Nishi-Iya and a double bridge in Higashi Iya.
- The most popular vine bridge is in Nishi-Iya and known simply as "Kazurabashi", fairly close to the main village, and sole destination for 90% of visitors to the valley. There is a rather large operation going on here due to the number of visitors, and the bridge itself is not particularly scary or atmospheric. Entrance costs ¥500 and the bridge's operating hours are officially defined as sunrise to sunset. Adjacent to the vine bridge is a very large parking area made to handle the loads of tour buses, with several souvenir shops and places to eat. There are also several small inns and a campground within walking distance.
- For considerably more atmosphere and far fewer crowds (if any at all), the Oku-Iya Kazurabashi (奥祖谷二重かずら橋) can be found at the eastern end of the valley, before the final ascent to Mi-no-Koshi. Located a short hike down through the forest, one really gets the sense of going somewhere hidden. There are two vine bridges here, namely the Husband's Bridge (夫の橋 Otto-no-hashi), the longer, higher up and thus evidently manlier of the two, and on the left the Wife's Bridge (婦の橋, Tsuma-no-hashi). These are a bit closer to the Tarzan kind of vine bridge and best avoided if you have a fear of heights, although even here there are steel cables hidden inside the vines. The surrounding are peaceful and idyllic, and on the other side is an excellent campground and a beautiful waterfall. There is also a small wooden cart that can seat up to three people suspended from rope cables near the Wife's Bridge where you can slide halfway across the ravine before you need to pull yourself the rest of the way with the rope in the cart, though if someone is waiting they often help pull at either end. The river is also easily accessible here, and is refreshing for a cool dip on a hot summer day. Entrance ¥500. Getting here can be a bit of problem as most buses usually don't come this far (buses run on weekends and holiday periods only), but if you have your own transport or a good working thumb, you'll be sure to enjoy the lack of mass access. See Get Around for bus options.
The lower area at the mouth of the Iya Valley between Iyaguchi and central Nishi-Iya is mostly undeveloped and simply stunning, and it is known as Iya-kei (祖谷渓 Iya Gorge). A twisty, mostly one-laned road meanders through this section ('old' Route 32), and allows for sweeping vista views and a Mario-Cart driving experience. From Iyaguchi the road snakes closer to the river, then after the tiny hamlet of Deai (turn here for Matsuogawa Onsen) you begin to ascend the valley wall. After a few more minutes you will pass the entrance to the Iya-Kei Camp Village, then it starts to get steadily higher and more intense. Panoramic view points are here and there, and when the autumn leaves are changing it is quite spectacular. Stop by the precariously perched Peeing Boy statue for a near vertical view of the turquoise waters a couple hundred meters below, and pass by the middle-of-nowhere Iya Onsen before heading into the central part of Nishi-Iya. Expect about an hour with viewpoint stops when driving from Iyaguchi to central Nishi-Iya. Three of the daily public buses also take this route (Awa-Ikeda Bus Terminal to Kazurabashi route via Deai), or for those looking for a hike, you can take a bus as far as Deai and walk along the winding one-lane road to Nishi-Iya in about 2 to 3 hours. See Get In for bus options.
Registered as a national historic preservation district in 2005, Ochiai's collection of traditional farmhouses dates back to the middle Edo era. Climbing up the side of a mountain, the hamlet is a weave of stone footpaths, terraced farm plots growing the famed Iya soba (buckwheat) and Iya potatoes, and welcoming local residents who are proud to show off their heritage and lifestyle. In recent years an effort has been made to restore the buildings here. Several of these thatched-roof homes have been beautifully restored and are now available to stay in overnight with Tougenkyo-Iya (See Sleep for details on staying in one of these traditional homes). On the opposite mountainside across the valley, a viewpoint has been built (equip with sparkling new public toilets) where one can take in the whole view of Ochiai. This can be accessed by road or hiked.
- San-jo Jinja 三所神社 This shrine is located in the center of Ochiai Hamlet (not along the road, but accessed by walking path from every direction) and the site dates back to the Edo era. Surrounded by towering cedar trees, the doors of the shrine usually remain closed, but the structure is of traditional wooden style and is a calm, cool spot to take a break during a warm summer afternoon. Adjacent to the shrine is a small open field, where twice a year (June 8 and August 5 on the Lunar Calendar) a local festival takes place. Participants wear traditional robes as they carry and throw to one-another long bamboo poles, while children wear traditional face paint and play drums and are pulled around in a covered wooden cart. A special portable shrine weighing about 100kg (220lbs) is also brought out and carried on the shoulders of four men. Outside visitors are warmly welcomed (there are usually very few, if any) and may even be asked to partake in the activities.
- Nagaoka-ke 長岡家 is a thatched roof farmhouse and one of the oldest still standing structures in Ochiai. A culturally protected building, it has been cleaned up nicely for visitors to walk through and see the interior. With its floor hearths, paper doors, and antique chests, it's a nice place to relax and view the valley. Local information is available here. Closed Wednesdays, no fee. It is located in the center of Ochiai along the hamlet road, about 150 meters below the San-jo Shrine.
- Nakochi なこち  Located about three or four minutes up the path from San-jo Jinja (to the right/northeast) or from the road just above, Nakochi is a cafe and event space situated in a recently restored traditional farmhouse. Usually only open on weekends and national holidays, it's a good place to take a break and enjoy a meal or cup of tea while exploring Ochiai hamlet. The house has nice views through the valley and is arranged with antiques and a traditional floor hearth. Various events are also held throughout the year here (potato harvesting, tea ceremony, art exhibition). Other activities can be arranged by request and include soba making, sausage making, guided Ochiai tours, star viewing, and mountain hike guides. See Eat for more details about the cafe.
- Ochiai-toge 落合峠 If one follows the road up through the hamlet, and then continue heading up for another 20 to 30 minutes by car, you will reach Ochiai-toge (Ochiai Mountain Pass). At 1520 meters, it is the highest driving road in the Iya valley (and actually 4 meters shy of the highest driving point in the entirety of western and southern Japan) and offers fantastic views of the southern ridge line, peaks, and valley floor exactly 1000m below. For those with a car, it is the easiest/laziest way to gain a mountain-top view of the valley. Stairs from the pass top lead 30 meters down to a toilet, and along the road 100m below the pass top is a large, newly paved parking area. A further 150m below the parking area is a small mountain hut (free to sleep) but not exactly 5 star accommodations (bring absolutely everything). The hut is surrounded by a mountain shrine area that is used for a small festival annually, and across the road here are some benches and a panoramic area that would be nice for a picnic. Water can be gotten from one of two streams a further 400m down the road (the 2nd lower stream is better). From the pass top a hiking trail heads off to the east for Mt. Yahazu (great view, but a fairly tough hike) or to the west for Ochi-hage (short easy hike, with better views than the pass). See 'Mt. Yahazu / Ochi-hage' under the Hiking section of Do for hike details.
Scarecrow Village (aka Valley of the Dolls)Edit
This is one of the more extreme oddities of Japan, and a reflection of the realities of rural life in the country. Local artist Ayano Tsukimi, who was born and raised in Higashi-Iya, moved back to her house in the early 2000s after years away, only to see her once active hamlet nearly deserted, as is the case with many country-side towns. She began making life-sized dolls on a fluke to help "re-populate" her neighborhood, but it has now become her life's obsession. One can see examples of her dolls throughout the whole valley at tourist spots here and there, but for the full blown mind-bending experience one needs to head out to the remote hamlet of Nagoro along the main road on the way to the Oku-Iya double vine bridges and Mi-no-Koshi. Here one can see her extensive work of hundreds of humanoid dolls which at first glance may be mistaken for actual people as they are waiting at bus stops, working in fields, and even attending the now defunct elementary school.
- Manpu Gorge Located in the central part of the valley in Higashi-Iya, this steep-walled gorge was one of the main stumbling blocks that prevented road access to much of the valley until the mid-1900s. Literally meaning "ten thousand men", this is what it took to carve a road into the sheer rock faces here. The old one-laned parts are almost all widened now, and the Ryugu Tunnel opened in 2003 which goes under the roughest patch, but the one kilometer section of the original road which the tunnel bypasses can still be driven upon for those who wish for a little adventure. An awesome wire suspension foot bridge (no fee) spans the gorge here very, very high above the river, which serves as a secondary access route to the Ryugugake Cottages on the opposite side (the main route is by car bridge a little further along). To access this original road, when traveling from the Nishi-Iya/Kazurabashi direction turn off to the left just after the large brown wood sign announcing "Tourist Information" and "Ryugugake Park" (in English) and follow it around to the other side of the tunnel. From the other direction (from Kyojo/Mt.Tsurugi) turn left just before entering the Ryugu Tunnel.
- Bukeyashiki This very large thatched roof house is located on the upper part of the mountain side above Kyojo. One of the nicest restored buildings in the valley, it has valley views, a beautiful interior, and a classic set of Japanese feudal armor on display. Architecture lovers would appreciate the detailed construction. Located next door by the shrine is the O-sugi, the largest cedar tree in Iya. Entrance fee is 300yen. Road signs for access refer to this place as 'Old Samurai Residence' in English. To get here it is a 4.5km drive up through a mountainside hamlet (guide signs throughout) from the turn off near the Kyojo Tunnel.
- Higashi-Iya Folk Museum, in the large red building in Kyojo, a collection of traditional tools and displays are on exhibit, detailing the traditional lifestyle and the heritage of how the valley was settled by the refugees of the famed Heike clan. 8:30-5:00pm daily, ¥300.
- Chiiori House, ☎ +81 0883-88-5290 ([email protected]), . A mountain-side thatch-roofed, traditional Japanese farmhouse, restored at exorbitant cost and described in loving detail in Lost Japan. However its previous days as a drop-in spot, cultural experience workshop, and volunteer project are over, and it is now only open to visitors as a fee-based guest house by reservation. edit
- O-Tsurugi Shrine (お剣神社). Located in Mi-no-Koshi, not far from the Tsurugi chairlift station. It's not very much to look at, but it's traditional to stop here before starting your ascent. The shrine is in fact in three parts, with one in Mi-no-Koshi, one on the trail to the top and one at the very top of the mountain. Every year on July 15-17 a special shrine festival takes place, culminating on the 17th when long processions clad in white robes head to the summit.
Hiking in the valley, especially the eastern end, is quite popular and there are many trails of various lengths mapped out. For information in staying at the mountain huts see details in the 'Budget' section of Sleep.
- Mt. Tsurugi (剣山 Tsurugi-san, also known locally as Ken-zan, sometimes spelled 'Turugi', 1955m) is Iya's most popular hiking destination and the 2nd tallest in Shikoku (#1 being Mount Ishizuchi). One of Japan's "100 Most Famous Mountains", the name may mean "Sword Mountain", but this is a singularly inaccurate description of this gently rounded fell, and you can even take a chairlift up most of the way (¥1000). From the chairlift terminal, it's a half-hour climb to the summit. Alternatively, if you choose to hike up or down the long way (2 hours or so), you can stop at Otsurugi Shrine (お剣神社) along the way for a free sip of holy sake and a quaff at a clear mountain spring with drinkable water. On July 15-17 every year a special shrine festival takes place, culminating on the 17th when processions clad in white robes head to the summit. A staffed mountain hut with meals and accommodation is located on the summit, and camping is available near the upper chair lift station. The main access trail-head starts in Mi-no-Koshi. There is a large (free) parking lot at the base of the lift.
- There are several routes up Mt. Tsurugi. A map can be found near the lift ticket counter. Trails radiate from Tsurugi in a number of directions. Neighboring Ichinomori is a more intense climb than Tsurugi involving ascent chains, and also has a staffed hut on top. For a longer hike, head eastward across to Jirogyu and on to Maruishi, from where you can go down directly to the Oku-Iya double vine bridges and campground. If you opt not to go down here, you can continue along the ridge over Mt. Shiraga and onward to Miune. If starting early, hiking from Mi-no-Koshi to Mt.Tsurugi summit, then across to Miune can be done in a day (with sleeping in Miune hut), or you can opt to stay in one of the other free mountain huts along the way if your speed is slower. (see the camping explanation under "Sleep" for hut info)
- Mt. Miune (三嶺) is another popular trip, but less crowded and arguably prettier than Mt. Tsurugi. At 1893m, locals say it is the best hike to see the autumn foliage, but it's nice any season. The main trail starts at the hamlet of Nagoro (follow signs) with lower and upper parking areas (the upper area follows the crumbling road about 1km, not recommended if you love your car) and takes about 2.5 hours up. Miune can also be accessed in a very long day hike from Tsurugi-san along the ridge line, or to/from the Iyashi-no-Onsenkyo hotel in a rough 3.5 to 4.5 hour climb. It can also be accessed to/from Mt. Tenguzuka in the opposite direction of Mt. Tsurugi. A colorful description of the Tenguzuka route can be found at the Hiking in Southern Japan blog. At the top of Miune is a large emergency hut which can also be used for overnight staying free of charge (bring your own sleeping and eating equipment, and seal up food due to hungry mice).
- Mt. Tenguzuka is a tall, pyramid shaped mountain peak that has fine 360 views from its 1812m pointed top. Along the ridge below the peak itself, a broad expanse of sasa (short bamboo grass) fields curve gently over the mountain top, allowing for a fairly flat long walk around the area (eventually the path here just goes down the other side of the mountain). A very nice mountain hut is located nearby in the opposite direction of the sasa grass fields. This is a fine hike and peak, and you will see relatively few people compared to Tsurugi or Miune. It is about 2.5 hours from Miune along the ridge, or 3.5 to 4 hours from the Kubo trail head (At the final public bus stop, cross the bridge, follow the road up for 10 minutes. Bear left at the first turn off to go over the small bridge, and access the path just before where the road curves heavily to the left). There is also a higher access road above Kubo (saving about 1 to 1.5 hours of uphill hiking) that can be reached via the small road located a few minutes past the Ochiai area on Rt 439 (turn to the right at the brown sign for "Tenguzuka" in English) and follow about 8km, or get there the other way by going through the Iyashi-no-Onsenkyo Hotel (about 7km after the hotel). If coming up the trail (either from Kubo or the access road), once at the top of the ridge, the peak will be clearly visible to the right, with the sasa fields just beyond, and the hut is 20 minutes down and around the ridge to the left towards Miune.
- Mt. Yahazu / Ochi-hage On the other side of the valley, Mt. Yahazu 矢筈山 peak can be accessed from Ochiai-toge 落合峠 (Ochiai mountain pass). About 2 to 2.5 hours from the parking area near the pass top (if going up from Ochiai, the path would be on the right). This is fairly steep, but the panoramic views from the peak top are fantastic as this is the highest point on the northern side of the valley (1848m). Alternately, for those looking for a little less effort but a rewarding mountain experience, Ochi-hage is only a 30-40 minute hike and visible from the road here (take the path going to the left on the pass top if heading up from Ochiai). The beginning of the path is a gentle climb through the sasa-grass with lots of views, and the final 10-15 minute climb is a bit steeper but not too strenuous. The valley view is grand here, with Miune and Tenguzuka directly across the valley here Tsurugi-san far off to the left and the peaks of Nishi-Iya to the right. On a clear day, the Seto Sea and Takamatsu can be seen to the north. A further 4km hike (2.5-3hours) past Ochi-hage leads to Mt. Kanbo (the higher sasa-grass covered peak to the right) and from here paths go down to the village of Kurisuto (between Ochiai and Kyojo). Parking, toilets and a small mountain hut (free) are located near the Ochiai pass top. See the Ochiai Pass details in the 'Ochiai Hamlet' section under See for more information.
- As the valley is ringed by mountains, there are several other options for hiking in practically every direction.
There are several options for day-use hot springs to soak away your troubles, mostly at the major hotels. Admission fees for non-guests usually run about ¥1000 (other prices noted). Soap/shampoo is provided, but bring your own towels. A quick run-down from lowest in the valley to the upper end near Mt. Tsurugi:
- Matsuogawa Onsen, just off the lower end of the Iya Gorge near Deai, the simple baths are in a traditional setting. The closest hotspring to the Iya-Kei Camp Village. ¥510. Baths are indoors with a nice view of the river below.
- Iya Onsen, from the hotel perched on the edge of the Iya Gorge, take the slow cable car way down to the valley floor. The pretty river-side bath smells of sulfur, but the temperature is not very hot (nice in warm weather, but only just managable on a colder day). The indoor bath up at the hotel is basic and sparse. ¥1000-¥2000.
- Hikkyo-no-Yu Hotel, near the Michi-no-Eki and Fureai Center by central Nishi-Iya. The large indoor baths are elaborate and refreshing (by far the best indoor baths in the valley), but the outside stone-lined pools don't offer as nice of a view as elsewhere.
- Hotel Kazurabashi, closer to the Kazurabashi vine bridge in Nishi-Iya, the indoor bath is minimal, but the outdoor baths up the mountain via the short cable car are award-winning. Designed with charming rustic appeal, there are both men's/women's baths as well as a mixed-sex bath for the more adventurous. Small, traditional wood heated baths in private huts are also available for additional cost by reservation, but allow for an experience of cooking oneself in an iron cauldron. The adjacent thatched-roof tea house has a floor hearth for relaxing, or one can go outside to the foot bath on the broad balcony to take in the awesome view. Available for non-guests 10am-4pm, closed Wednesdays.
- Iyashi-no-Onsenkyo, located much further up the valley, the indoor and outdoor baths here are thorough enough, and mostly made of local cypress wood. A good option if coming from one of the mountain hikes or if visiting the double Oku-Iya vine bridges. Views are better from the ladies' side. ¥500/¥300 adult/children
- La Fôret Tsurugi, on Route 438 going towards Sadimitsu, a 10 minute drive from Mi-no-Koshi, this small hotel's simple baths in a quiet secluded setting are the closest to the Mt. Tsurugi trail head area. ¥500
There are several festivals of various size held throughout the year.
Most local Shinto shrines host their own festivals for the surrounding neighborhood, usually once or twice a year according to their own traditions. In these events, local customs often call for a group of men to carry a small (70-150kg) portable shrine around the shrine grounds while accompanied with drummers, people in costume, and sometimes pairs of people throwing long bamboo staffs. Each shrine and neighborhood has its own customs (one or two even have the attendees engage in sumo wrestling), but unfortunately, due to an ever dwindling population, many of these traditions are being lost. (See "San-jo Jinja" under the Ochiai Hamlet section of See for more specific information)
The largest festivals in the valley are the summer festivals, one each in Nishi-Iya and Higashi-Iya. They are held at the middle-school grounds on the in the weeks before the national Obon Holiday (August 15) as this is a common time for family members who've moved away to return home for a visit. These events are open to anyone and include food tents, games, performances, and fireworks, so if visiting the area at this time, ask around or look for promotional posters. Usually the Nishi Iya festival is the first Sunday in August, and the Higashi Iya festival is on August 13.
The Heike Matsuri festival is held the final Sunday of October and celebrates the tradition of how the defeated Heike samurai came to the valley eight-hundred years ago in order to hide from the victors in the Genpei War. This is held at the Kazurabashi grounds in Nishi-Iya and includes various performances including a theatrical re-enactment of how the warriors arrived in the valley.
A Bunka Matsuri (Culture Festival) occurs throughout the valley during the month of October, and aside from including the Heike Matsuri, there are also several special events happening, mainly on weekends. These include a jazz concert/dinner in the Bukeyashiki samurai house (usually first or second Saturday night of October), a Scarecrow festival in Nagaro (mid-October), singing and puppet performances, and various shrine festivals. For info, check at tourist offices in town.
The Yukigassen (Snowball Fight Competition)  is held on the final weekend in January in Higashi Iya, and has become a major event at a time when few visit the valley. Not simply a free-for-all, this event is team-based and participants often practice for months to coordinate their skills in the tightly ruled sport. There are several classes of participation including children, women's, men's, and 'just for fun' leagues, and the winners of the main event get to advance to the national competition annually held in Nagano Prefecture. Team sign up takes place in the autumn and usually registration ends about Dec 1.
Oku-Iya Monorail Billed as the world's longest monorail of this type, the small cars putter steeply up the mountainside and through the dense forest for a 60 minute loop of sorts. It could be good option for families with small children or the disabled who want to experience the mountain scenery yet are unable to hike, but not necessarily a super thrilling experience. Bring a beer or three for a more enjoyable ride. Leaves on request from the Iyashi-no-Onsenkyo Hotel.
Tsuzuki's Soba Atelier (古式そば打ち体験 都築) +81 0883-88-5625 www.iyjiman.com (in central Higashi Iya, across the river from the Kyojo Tunnel) Learn how to make the famous Iya soba noodles yourself, from grinding the buckwheat by hand in a stone mortar, to rolling out and chopping the noodles, and then chow down on what you've made. Also be entertained as Ms. Tsuzuki sings a traditional soba-making ballad, and be overwhelmed with the hospitality. Two-hour classes are ¥3000 per person, and include more soba than you could ever eat.
Yama Yoga www.yamayoga.weebly.com The energetic English speaking instructor offers a variety of scheduled drop-in classes and private classes at the picturesque main studio (located at the Ryugugake Cottages in Higashi Iya, non-guests are welcome to attend without reservations), as well as private lessons at other accommodations in the valley. A unique option is to reserve one of the "Yama Yoga Experiences" ('yama' means 'mountain' in Japanese) where you can go out with the instructor to do yoga within some of Iya's breathtaking scenery, including hidden mountain houses, deep forest glens, and panoramic valley viewpoints.
White Water Rafting Some of the best rafting in Japan is located just outside the mouth of the Iya Valley, and can easily be included with any trip to the valley (about 15 minutes from central Nishi Iya). See the Oboke and Koboke page for details
Iya doesn't have even a single chain convenience store (one of the only places in Japan?), but there are some mom-and-pop type grocery shops throughout the valley, and quite a few more souvenir shops (particularly near the main vine bridge in Nishi-Iya). It's best to bring along anything even remotely exotic. You can get good supplies of groceries from Boke-Mart, the local grocery by the station at Oboke, but selection would be better at the full sized supermarket in Ikeda near the bus station. Within the Iya Valley, Tani Shoten in central Higashi Iya is probably the best bet for buying groceries/drinks. (See the Grocery section under Eat for details on buying food in the valley.)
For those looking for camping supplies, there is a well equip Mont Bell outdoor store at the WestWest rest stop in Koboke, and the home center (hardware store) in Ikeda near the main bus station has some camping gear.
- Michi-no-Eki Nishi Iya (Located just before central Nishi-Iya on Route 45 next to the Hikkyo-no-Yu Hotel as you come from Oboke) The small Michi-no-Eki (on the right coming down the hill) has 24 hour restrooms and a whole spread of travel information and maps. The shop attached sells a variety of local goods, including hand-made crafts and boxed gift snacks, and a range of cooked local foods are available from their kitchen. Just outside the back door is a little antique stand jammed with old wares.
- Iya Fureai Park (Located just before central Nishi-Iya on Route 45 across from the Hikkyo-no-Yu Hotel as you come from Oboke) A little further from the Michi-no-Eki its hard not to spot the Fureai Park down the road, and its large grey concrete "rainbow" is a prime example aesthetically deficient government spending at its best (Alex Kerr must cringe whenever he enters the valley through here). What's on offer is very similar to the Michi-no-Eki but with a bit more going on, and the view of the river from the parking area is nice. If you cross the bridge under the rainbow you can ride the very kitschy Ladybug Monorail on a harrowing adventure at about 2km per hour around the lush hillside. Young children would enjoy, as well as those looking for a tacky photo opportunity (500/300yen adults/children). Within the parking area here is the Nakazo Cafe serving local fried potatos, Iya hot dogs, and drinks (see full listing under Eat). The emerald Iya River below is accessible here if looking to splash about, and on the banks there is an outdoor playground and camping area.
Iya has a wide variety of locally produced foods.
The local tofu (known here as iwa-dofu or ishi-dofu and translates as "stone tofu") is unique in that it is so dense that it was traditionally carried around with a strap of rope. With a rich flavor and hearty mouth-feel, its unlike any other tofu in Japan. Most large hotels serve it with the course meals and some smaller places have it available as a side dish.
Iya potatoes are a traditional staple grown in the small terraced farm plots seen throughout the valley. The potatoes are small and dense due to the rocky terrain. And for the culinary aficionado, try the locally produced konyaku which is a rubbery gelatin produced with Japanese yams and attains its grey color by being mixed with the ash of burnt cedar tree branches.
Wild game in the form of deer meat and mountain boar has become more common in recent years due to a hunter's butchery being established in Higashi-Iya in 2014. It can be found in some places but may only be available at special request.
Nishi-Iya and Mi-no-Koshi have the usual range of rice and noodle joints for visitors, all a bit on the expensive side by Japanese standards. Try grilled amego (a local river fish) that are encrusted with salt at 500 yen a pop, sold by little stands here and there by the vine bridge. Or opt for a roasted skewer of dekomawashi which consists of the dense local tofu, even denser local konyaku, and the even denser still local potatoes and all slathered with miso paste at about ¥300 each.
Many places advertise the famed Iya soba noodles, made with buckwheat grown in the valley and renowned throughout Japan for its pure flavor. If you've ever been to another mountain in Japan you'll recognize the topping as the same sansai mountain vegetables served everywhere else, but with luck you'll stumble upon a local place that pickles their own sansai, which grow in abundance here but require effort to cure.
And only available in Iya, hirarayaki is a dish made from many of the local specialties such as tofu, potatoes, konyaku, and amego trout. Traditionally cooked on a large flat rock and heated by fire below, more commonly it is cooked on an iron griddle where thick walls of miso paste encircle a mixture of sake and miso, such that it cooks the ingredients like a stew. However, finding this on offer can be a challenge as its usually only for special occasions, but it is available at the Oku-Iya Hotel as well at some of the larger hotels in Nishi-Iya.
Nishi Iya (Lower Valley area)
- The Woody Rest, Iyaguchi. While not exactly in the Iya Valley, this is one of the last and only places to get a meal if entering/exiting the valley via Iyaguchi. If coming from Ikeda, it is located on left side of the main Route 32 a few hundred meters before the Iya Valley turn off. If exiting the valley, then turn right after crossing the bridge onto Rt 32 and go a bit past the Iyaguchi train station. Iya soba is available as well as a variety of Japanese meals. The menu is in English and the owner's friendly wife is usually on hand to take your order in her descent English. This is one of the closest restaurants to Iya-Kei Camp Village and Matsuogawa Onsen. 11am to 7:30pm, closed Wednesdays.
- Senkichi, Nishi-Iya (a little way up from Hikkyo-no-Yu Onsen and Michi-no-Eki). If looking for somewhere special, this soba restaurant is easily spotted by the ninja climbing up the outside of the building (If coming from Oboke, the ninja is seen only after just passing the entrance, so make a quick u-turn and go back 50 meters). Antique lovers will rejoice, as the inside is beautifully decorated with rustic style furniture, old house beams, and even a traditional sunken hearth. Great views extend down into the valley. The owner speaks basic English to help you along. Open for lunch, closed in winter. Closed Thursdays.
- Nakazo Cafe, Nishi Iya (Within Iya Fureai Park's parking area in Nishi Iya). This small cafe has outdoor seating and serves up local style hot dogs ("Iyahhodog") which sometime include deer meat, as well as deep fried whole Iya potatos, which are acclaimed for their dense texture (the place is run by the family of Nakazo Farm of Higashi Iya, one of the valley's main potato specialists). 10am-4pm.
- Iya-biijin, Nishi-Iya (located about halfway between central Nishi-Iya and the main Kazurabashi vine bridge, 1km either way) A large restaurant and hotel perched on the side of the valley in a new (but traditional looking) building, offering fine views and lots of local specialties.
Also, food and snacks can be found at Fureai Center and Michi-no-Eki in Nishi-Iya (see: "Buy"), both near the Hikkyo-no-Yu Hotel close to the central district.
Within walking distance around the Kazurabashi Vine Bridge are several restaurants, all only open during the daytime (no dinner), mainly serving Iya soba and local specialties (see above). Most look like they haven't been renovated since the mid-1970s, but this just adds to the step-back-in-time experience. However there is a newer soba restaurant inside the parking area's souvenir building if you are seeking a bit more shine, and near the entrance to the vine bridge is a unique restaurant/cafe in that it offers a menu with various treats and is actually without soba! (see below)
- Mori-no Kuma-san (The Forest's Bear) (in Nishi-Iya. Set on the corner overlooking the Kazurabashi, a few meters from the vine bridge's entrance.) 9am-5pm, closed Tuesdays. If you've had your fill of soba, or are just looking for a light snack or creamy gelato, then this is the place to head. With a nice woodsy feel, you'll find a variety of hot sandwiches, fries made with local potatoes, fruit smoothies, and even waffles drenched in Iya honey. Free Wi-Fi brings you momentarily back into the modern world, and the owner can speak a bit of English to help you along (with a menu in English too). Have a seat on the balcony, where tiny local birds are semi-trained to swoop in to pick sunflower seeds out of your hand (if not too busy, the owner will show you how, or just follow the how-to pictures on the wall).
Higashi Iya (Upper Valley area)
- Yanamoto's, Higashi-Iya in Kyojo (at the end/beginning of the main Kyojo street, at the opposite end of the large red all purpose hall/museum). From the outside this place looks more like a house than a restaurant, but it is open to the public. The specialty is okonomi-yaki (Japanese vegetable and meat pancakes) as the tables are set up to be grills, but rice and noodle dishes are also available. Beer is on tap, as this is the closest thing that the town has to a pub.
- Oku-Iya Hotel Restaurant, +81 0883-88-2045 Higashi-Iya in Kyojo (in the center of the main Kyojo street, next to the gas station). Easily seen from the street, and offering a variety of local dishes and standard Japanese meals, this is where Iya people go for lunch. The locally picked san-sai pickles are some of the best in town. They also cook locally caught deer meat curry and croquettes for lunch time if one wants to enjoy a hearty meal. And hirarayaki is also on offer, though it may need to be reserved in advance. English menu available.
- Nakochi (なこち) http://nakochi.site44.com/ (email: [email protected]) Higashi-Iya in Ochiai, (a few minutes up the path from San-jo Jinja). Set in a restored farmhouse, Nakochi offers a unique menu using Iya's local ingredients, but not in their traditional form (deer meat spaghetti bolognese, Iya tofu burgers, Thai style rice with minced deer meat, etc). Open every Saturday for dinner and lunch, and every Sunday and holiday for lunch only. Also on hand are traditional Iya set meals prepared with local ingredients (but an advanced reservation is needed for the sets). If not wanting to eat, a large variety of drinks are also available. As Ochiai's only cafe, its a great place to stop for enjoying the view across the valley. Breakfast is also available but by reservation only. (See the Ochiai Hamlet section under See for more details).
- Soba Dojo (そば道場), Higashi-Iya in Ochiai, (on the main road). Have some of the local soba noodles.
For those looking to buy food to prepare themselves, the closest real supermarket is located in Ikeda town. In Oboke a few dozen meters from the JR train station is Boke Mart and has possibly the biggest/best selection outside of Ikeda. Within the valley itself there are several mom-and-pop shops, with some that are so-so in their basic offerings and some that are indeed dismal.
In Nishi-Iya, some of the 'better' ones include one near the post office and another two on the main road near the Kazurabashi (do not take the straight road to Kazurabashi but instead turn left just after the Hotel Kazurabashi as if heading to Higashi Iya. They are located about 200-300 meters further along from here). The offerings are pretty limited. If looking for more than snacks, go back to Oboke or a little further up into Higashi Iya.
- Tani-shoten (in Higashi-Iya, close to the center of town near the intersection of Rt 439 and Rt 32. If coming up from Nishi-Iya, turn right off the main road before entering the Kyojo Tunnel onto Rt 439 towards 'Kyoboshira Pass'. Its on the left about 100 meters along, past a few houses) The best selection within the Iya Valley can be found here, though don't expect a full sized supermarket. However a little bit of everything is on hand including frozen meat and fish, a range of basic staples, snacks, fruit, bread, beer and a variety of sake/shochu. Come early in the day and you may be able to get a brick of fresh tofu or some wedges of konnyaku (or reserve for the following day if sold out). Open daily 7am to 7pm.
There are also shops in Kyojo (near the gas stand) and Ochiai (on the main road) but don't plan to prepare a seven course meal with what's on offer, as its mainly drinks and snacks.
Yoshida Tofu shop in Kyojo (on the small side street opposite the town office) makes and sells the valley's famed dense tofu.
If you want nightlife, you are completely in the wrong place! But a beer vending machine is available till about 11pm on the corner opposite the Higashi-Iya town hall in Kyojo, while Yanamoto's in Kyojo also serves as an impromptu pub (see listing under "Eat"). The valley's only real drinking place is in Nishi Iya:
- Onomiya (おのみ家) (In Nishi Iya, Across from Kazurabashi Hotel, near the turn off for the Vine Bridge/Higashi Iya). 11am-9pm (or later if customers present) Closed Wednesdays. The aptly named Onomiya (best translated as "A place to have a drink") is the Iya Valleys only izakaya pub, though it isn't very big. Lots of side dishes are available, though the drink selection is mainly beer, sake, and shochu. Catering mainly to locals, you'll probably be the only tourist, though don't feel put off as they'll welcome you warmly. Some main dishes are also available, but probably best to go for the Days' Special Set if wanting a full meal. A private room can be had for larger groups (equip with a karaoke player). The place is easily recognizable as its painted outside like an old fashioned orange and yellow bus, and a real one is usually parked out front since this is also home to the Kazurabashi Taxi and Bus Tour (which is convenient if one overindulges and needs a ride back). English menu available.
It is highly recommended that you make a reservation before arriving in Iya. Some places can fill up on busy weekends, while some smaller places may not be able to handle on-the-spot arrivals (often there is only a single staff on hand who may be unable to prepare a room without notice, and if no rooms are booked that night, there may even be no staff there at all).
Also, it is customary in Japan to state the time you plan to arrive when reserving (as in "about 4:00pm"), so if you foresee arriving later than planned, you should call to say when you will come, even if calling the same day as arrival. Not doing so can lead to problems, the worst of which would be that you are considered a no-show, and if no other guests are there, the staff may go home for the night, leaving you alone in the dark without a place to sleep.
There are no youth hostels in Iya — the nearest are in Oboke and Ikeda, outside the entrance to the valley — but it's an excellent place for camping. But be sure to understand weather conditions of Iya before pitching your tent (see Climate at the top of this webpage). For finding camping supplies, see the Buy section.
- Iya Kei Camp Village  (祖谷渓キャンプ村) (on 'old' route 32, between Iya-guchi and Iya Onsen.), ☎ +81 0883-75-2044. Set within the undeveloped section of the Iya gorge, this campground allows for tents or has small bungalows to rent. The river is easily accessible here, with lots of cherry blossoms in the spring and colorful leaves in the fall. Tent sites are ¥1000, and small bungalows run ¥3600 for up to five people, and bigger ones that hold up to eight go for ¥6100.
- Iya Kazurabashi Camp Village (祖谷かずら橋キャンプ村 Iya kazurabashi kyanpu-mura) (tel. +81 090 1571 5258). An excellent little campground in West Iya, on the south side of the river a 10-minute walk (mostly uphill) from the vine bridge. ¥500 gets you a patch of grass for the night, with beautiful views of the valley. Toilet facilities and hot water shower are provided. Staying here entitles you to a discount at the Hikkyo no Yu onsen, bringing the cost down to a more reasonable ¥700. Pick up a discount coupon from the caretaker of the campsite. Cabins are also available at ¥5000 Reservations are required for both camping and cabins (do not just show up without notice, you will probably be turned away even if space is available).
- Oku-Iya Kazurabashi Camping (奥祖谷かずら橋キャンプ). A rather basic, but magnificently placed campground located across the Oku-Iya vine bridges at the eastern end of the valley. Entry is ¥300 per person, plus the ¥500 to cross the bridge to the campsite (only once if you stay for more days). There is a separate cargo pulley system, so you can shift your supplies across the river without carrying them on your back across on the precarious vine bridge. There are only very basic toilet facilities and no showers. You can ask the owner of the minshuku across the road to use their bathroom for a small fee (about ¥300).
- Tsurugi-san Campground Above Mi-no-Koshi, there are a few camping sites available along the side of the trail to Mt. Tsurugi peak, just past the upper chair-lift station. They are high (about 1750m) and somewhat exposed, and not advisable if the weather outlook is less than fair. (head to one of the huts at the summit if the weather turn sour). Alternatively, ask nicely for permission to borrow a patch of lawn from one of minshukus — and show your gratitude by eating a meal or two there.
- For info on staying in a minshuku (inn) at Mi-no-koshi, see the offerings in Mid-range.
- Mountain Huts (yama-goya 山小屋) For those doing multi-day hikes in the mountains, there are several mountain huts along the highest ridge line in Higashi-Iya, that are almost all un-staffed and free of charge (the Mt.Tsurugi and Ichinomori huts being the exception). Tents can be pitched next to the huts if they are full. The Mt.Tsurugi hut has paid bunks and simple meals available, and off the side of Mt. Tsurugi is neighboring Mt. Ichinomori, with two huts (one paid, one free). If traversing the ridge line from Mt. Tsurugi, two small huts (Maruishi and Shiraga) lie along the trail from Tsurugi to Miune; the Miune hut is located just below the summit next to the pond; and the very nice hut near Tenguzuka Mountain is 20 minutes before the peak just off the trail heading from Mt. Miune. There is also a small, dusty hut located along the road close to Ochiai Pass. Be sure to bring everything you need as the un-staffed huts have no electric, or cooking/bedding facilities, and spring water may be unavailable if there is a lack of rain. More good info about the huts can be found in English here.
If hiking, it is not advised to camp in unmarked spots nor should tents be pitched along trails. Some may wish to do some commando-style camping secretly out of sight, but this is not recommended and one would be scolded severely and forced to move if caught. Japanese hikers often rise very early to see the sunrise from peaks (note to those sharing the free mountain huts), so it would be hard to ensure that one could get away with such camping. However, if one doesn't mind being exposed to the elements, just rolling out your sleeping bag and maybe covering it with a waterproof cover (a bivouac, not a tent) then it is possible to crash out on a peak for the night and enjoy the stars. Japanese hikers may find exception to this minimalist option, though one should be ready to get up if people arrive at sunrise. But be warned, summits get chilly overnight and/or freezing for much of the year, winds can be constant even on clear nights, and storms sometimes move in quick.
There are several great options (including onsen) for those not looking for top-end luxury nor the price that comes with it. Whole cabins can be quite affordable (in most other parts of Japan the prices would qualify as 'Budget'), most offering kitchens which allow for self catering. On the other hand, those looking for a 'classic' experience can try one of the several simple minshukus in Nishi-Iya, Kyojo and Mi-no-Koshi. The basic bed-only sudomari (素泊まり) rate starts at around ¥3500 per person, higher with dinner and/or breakfast. It also is worth checking the 'Splurge' section for accommodation as well, as several there offer rates of less than 10,000yen per person depending on what you're looking for.
Iya Gorge Area -At the bottom entrance of the valley, this area has an immediate sense of remoteness.
- Iya Kei Camp Village (祖谷渓キャンプ村), (turn off Rt 32 just past near Deai), ☎ +81 0883-75-2044, . Cabins available starting from ¥3600 for up to five people. No restaurant, so bring your own food. See the listing under "Budget/Camping" for more info. edit
- Matsuogawa Onsen (龍宮崖コテージ), Matsuo, Ikeda (near Deai), ☎ +81 0883-75-2322, . Not located in the Iya Valley exactly, but on a side valley a few minutes from the hamlet of Deai at the base of the western gorge area. The facilities are neat, traditional Japanese style, and the simple hot spring bath is refreshing. There are no meals available, but a large shared kitchen is here for guest use. At 3200 yen per person which includes the bath, its a bargain indeed, and for stays of 3 days or more there are reduced rates. A hike of about 30 or 40 minutes from here brings you to Kurozo Marshlands, a famous place for flower lovers and bird watchers. edit
Central Valley Area (Nishi Iya / Kazurabashi) -Though in the center of the Iya Valley, the compact area around the popular Kazurabashi is comparably built up, with several classic style minshukus (the much nicer hotels are a couple minutes by car farther out, see Splurge) as well as a collection of souvenir shops, snack stands, parking areas, and ramshackle buildings (some occupied and some abandoned). A convenient area if this is your final destination (especially if using the bus), but if you plan to venture further up the valley, consider accommodation somewhere less frequented.
- Minshuku Iya-sou (民宿いや荘), ☎ 0883-87-2242. Just a few dozen meters on the road down from the Kazurabashi bus stop on the way to the Kazurabashi bridge. Looks like a house, with a yellow sign out front. Nice, welcoming owners. edit
- Iya Kankou-ryokan (祖谷観光旅館), ☎ 0883-87-2125. Nicer than most, this homestay-like place is located just around the bend a few meters from the Kazurabashi bus stop. edit
Upper Central Valley Area (Higashi Iya / Kyojo) -Not nearly as uninspiring or touristy as the Kazurabashi area in Nishi-Iya, this area around the sleepy "downtown" section of Kyojo in Higashi Iya is a good central base for exploring the more remote and certainly more rewarding parts of the valley. No group tours here, so if looking for charm and a sense of seclusion, this is where to go.
- Ryugugake Cottages (龍宮崖コテージ), (across the Manpu Gorge from the Ryugu Tunnel, in central Higashi Iya), ☎ +81 080-2981-6221, . This collection of seven modern cabins is located in the forested Ryugugake Park about ten minutes past the Kazurabashi and five minutes or so before Kyojo. One of the best deals in town, as the quiet mountain setting in the Manpu Gorge lets one feel like they are camping, but the comfortable cabins are each set up with kitchens, bathrooms, living/dining rooms, bedrooms, balconies, and even washing machines! Smaller cabins hold up to four, with the biggest holding eight people. There are no meals offered or restaurant here, but at just ¥4000 per person one shouldn't mind the task of cooking for oneself. If you are feeling carnivorous, a large covered barbecue pit is available (¥200 per person additional, great for parties, bring your own meat) and yoga classes are also offered in the main building most weekends (the instructor is one of the few people in town who can freely speak English) See Yama Yoga under Do (Other) for more info about the yoga offered. (**if you can not check in by 5:00pm, you must state this beforehand, and if you are delayed the day of arrival, you should call to say when you expect to get there. Not doing so may lead the staff to believe that you will not come and they might just go home.) edit
- Oku-Iya Hotel (旅の宿 奥祖谷), Kyojo, Higashi-Iya (near the gas station), ☎ +81 0883-88-2045, . Located in the far from bustling "downtown" area of Kyojo along the river, the basic but charming rooms start at ¥ 4500 without meals, and ¥7000 with dinner and breakfast, but for an additional ¥1000 one can sample the valley specialty of hirarayaki or for a total of ¥10,000 one can opt to have a locally hunted deer meat course. Guest meals are usually served in one of the stylish banquet rooms, but there is also a classic-looking cafe along the roadside offering a variety of meals. With an English menu available, the food is highly recommended. edit
- Kajiya Iya Romantei (カジヤ祖谷浪漫亭), Kyojo, Higashi-Iya (just up the hill above the gas station), ☎ 090-5144-9277 ([email protected]), . Located on the hillside overlooking Kyojo, this homestay is one of the most interesting places in the valley. The main building is a traditional wood house uniquely and beautifully restored and run by a quirky but very welcoming man who loves to talk about (in Japanese) his vast collection of antiques, tell stories of the valley life, and explain whatever local culinary treat he is cooking up for the evening (however he will do his best to speak in his very basic English as well). Meals are cooked over the large iiori (floor hearth) around which drinks are also drunk well into the night. He has also built a rather neat outdoor/indoor bath house with valley views and an adjoining chill-out balcony, for which it should be noted that this is one of the only places in town (or even most of Japan) where one can take a traditional goimunburo bath from days gone by, which is essentially a large iron pot heated from below by open fire. Prices run at ¥10,000 per person including meals, but bring your own alcohol if desired. edit
Mi-no-koshi area (Mt. Tsurugi base) -At an elevation of 1400m and the point where the trails and chairlift for Tsurugi-san begin, Minokoshi has several minshuku on offer during the hiking season (early April to late November. All closed in winter). Far and away from most other valley sights, the main reason to stay here would be if one wants an early start (or late return) for climbing the mountain. For info about sleeping in huts atop the summit, see Budget / Camping.
- Minshuku Matsu'ura (民宿 まつうら), ☎ 0883-67-5009, . Bed & breakfast located 100 meters from the Minokoshi lift station. Enough room for groups. ￥6500~ (including 2 meals); ￥3500~ (without meals) edit
- Kiri-no-mine Minshuku (霧の峰), ☎ 0883-67-5211, . Bed & breakfast type located close to the chair lift station. ￥6500~ (including 2 meals); ￥3500~ (without meals) edit
- La Foret Tsurugi (ラ・フォーレつるぎ山), Tsuzuro-6198-2 Ichiu Tsurugi, Mima District (On Rt. 438 1.5km north of Minokoshi), ☎ +81 883-67-5555, . Just north of Mt. Tsurugi base area (7min by car, 30min by walk), this cozy yet very pretty hotel is a nice upgrade from the standard minshuku offerings of Minokoshi. Set in deep forest on a peaceful little pond, the rooms are tidy and well appointed, and meals feature local specialties. There is also a hot spring bath available, very soothing if having just hiked. Per person room rates with dinner and breakfast are 7700, dinner only is 6800, breakfast only 5500, and just the room without meals is 4600. Definitely an excellent value for what you get. Expect lots of peace and quiet. (closed in winter) edit
Even though the places listed here are the valley's top-end in both price and offerings, they aren't all break-the-bank expensive, and some can even be in the realm of mid-range with per person rates less than 10,000yen per person. If looking to reduce the price, its worth digging a bit through their websites to find different options regarding meal plans, room type, and number of people per room/cabin.
Central Valley Area (Nishi Iya / Kazurabashi) -All the places in this part of the valley include their own hot spring baths (onsen). They are also all set up to accommodate large group bus tours, which are quite popular here among Japanese and other East Asian tourists.
- Hikkyo no Yu (秘境の湯), ☎ +81 0883-87-2300, . A large and lavishly appointed onsen (hotspring) hotel near to the Michi-no-Eki (道の駅) in Nishi-Iya. The valley views mostly look out across to central Nishi-Iya. The rooms are modern and plush, and the meals are elaborate. It's easy to access via public transport and walkable to points nearby. About 15 minutes by vehicle to Oboke and 5 minutes to the vine bridge. Prices start at about ¥9000 per person without meals, ¥12,000 with. Transport service also offered. For non-guests, entry into the baths costs ¥1000. edit
- Hotel Iya Onsen (ホテル 祖谷温泉), ☎ +81 0883-75-2311, . Feeling like you're about as far away from it all as you can get in Japan, this precariously placed hotel is located within the Iya gorge at the west end of the valley and famous for the cable car that takes guests to the not-particularly-hot spring baths in a beautiful spot beside the river. But there's a price to pay: ¥14000 and up per head, to be precise. edit
- Hotel Kazurabashi (ホテルかずら橋), 32 Zentoku, Nishiiya, Miyoshi-shi (15 min. by bus from Oboke station, 10 min. walk from Kazurabashi vinebridge), ☎ +81 0883-87-2171, . A modern ryokan with hot spring baths. Most guest rooms have mountain views and the staff are very accommodating. The open-air baths above the hotel (reached with a cable car) are probably the nicest in the valley, if not Shikoku, and include a traditional thatched roof tea house with burning floor hearth for taking a break in. The views from the baths are breathtaking (non-guest baths cost ¥1000). Dinner and breakfast are top-end kaiseki cuisine using local ingredients. ¥15,000 per person with meal. edit
Upper Central Valley Area (Higashi Iya / Ochiai) -Bus tours are few to non-existant in this part of the valley (mainly due to insurance restrictions for the sometimes single-laned roads), so if looking to get away from the crowds and a chance to stay in some of Iya's famed thatched roof farm houses, this is where to head.
- Tougenkyo-Iya (桃源郷祖谷の山里), Ochiai, Higashi-Iya, ☎ +81 0883-88-2540, . Located within the historic Ochiai hamlet, these half dozen or so thatched roof homes have been beautifully restored and outfitted for guests. Visitors have the whole house to themselves, and some can accommodate groups of up to 8 people. Each has its own unique characteristics, and all have pleasant views with idyllic atmosphere. Modern kitchens allow for self-catering, or arrange meals to either be delivered or cooked/eaten together in the home of one of the neighborhood residents (additional fee for meals). Prices vary on season or day of week, but can be quite affordable and start from about ¥8,000 to 10,000 per person (based on at least two people) and reduce with increased number of guests or longer stays. Local guides are also available for various courses. edit
- Iyashi-no-Onsenkyo (いやしの温泉郷), Sugeoi, Higashi-Iya, ☎ +81 0883-88-2975, . Located out in Oku-Iya on the way to the double vine bridge, this large, secluded complex doesn't get the loaded tourist buses found in the Nishi-Iya area, allowing one to have a bit of peace and quiet. Offering hot spring baths, restaurant, tennis courts, and various accommodations including standard hotel rooms, small separate cabins, and even traditional thatched roof guest houses to stay in. The hot spring is open for non-guests daily. This is also the location of the Oku-Iya Monorail and Miune mountain can be hiked to/from here. Room prices start at about ¥8000-9000 per person, but depend on the type of accommodation, meals, and number in group. Transport service offered to Oboke if reserved. Two additional thatched roof homes are also on display here and open free to visitors. The hotsprings are available to non-guests for ¥500/¥300 adult/children edit
- Chiiori Trust, Tsurui, Higashi-Iya, . House of Japanese-aficionado Alex Kerr, this tucked away thatched-roof farmhouse has undergone a thorough restoration and is now available for overnight guests or day-use. Though Kerr hasn't ever really lived here for any real length of time since acquiring the place in the 1970s, he now runs the house from his homes in Kyoto and Thailand as part of an NPO dedicated to restoring crumbling old Japanese architecture. The place is quite stunning and is now equip with modern amenities that balance out the traditional floor hearths and collection of antiques. However staying in such well-kept tradition comes at a price: minimum overnight fees are 21,000 for the house off-season and some weekdays, and go up for holiday times, weekends, and with increased number of guests. Meals can be arranged at additional costs. The neighborhood hamlet has very little going on, and the view down the valley in front of the Chiiori house is rather obstructed by tall cedar trees. A newer staff house is located just next to the main building. edit
- The gorges of Oboke and Koboke, with more of the scenic views and world-class rafting, are just outside West Iya.
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