Göreme

Goreme (Göreme, pronounced guh-reh-meh, uh like er in "her") is a town in the Cappadocia region of Turkey. The town is centered in the middle of a internationally popular region that is best known for its natural rock formations, often called "fairy chimneys".

Göreme

Get in

By bus

Several bus companies (Nevsehirliler, Metro, Goreme Tourism, Suha and Göreme Cappadocia) have day-time and overnight buses that run directly from Göreme to Istanbul (or directly from Nevshehir, 20 minutes down the road). You can catch a bus from Istanbul by catching a ferry to the Harem ferry port. Make sure you book a couple of days in advance in peak times as buses book out. There are connections to Konya (3½ hours), Denizli (10 hours), Pamukkale (10 hours), Selçuk (12 hours), Kusadasi (12 hours), Marmaris (13 hours), Bodrum (13 hours), Alanya (9 hours), Çıralı (10 hours), Canakkale (17 hours), Kayseri, Trabzon, Van.

If you book your ticket directly to Göreme, make sure that the bus (or a smaller van associated with the bus company) will drop you off at the Göreme bus station (otogar) even if the bus ticket says Goreme. It is a common occurrence for a bus company to sell you a ticket that says Göreme but then drop you off somewhere in Nevshehir, sometimes at a tour office, and hope that the folks at the tour office will help you get to the Goreme bus station.

There are numerous buses from Göreme to other parts of Turkey. The cheapest fare quoted to Istanbul as of July 2010 was 50 TL direct from Sultanahmet (Old City), Istanbul by Suha Company with reclining seats and tv-sets at the back of every seat, though this required changing buses at Nevsehir and arriving at Göreme by shuttle most of the times.

By plane

The nearest airports to Goreme are in Kayseri or Nevsehir. To Kayseri Airport, Turkish Airlines as well as Onur Air or Pegasus have several flights a day from Istanbul. SunExpress is another low-cost option.

Outside the airport are only taxis (cost 12 TL to the main bus station, otogar) and arranged shuttle buses, no dolmuş. The stop for city buses is a bit down the road following the airport exit. The Kayseri otogar is far from the airport. From otogar, there are very limited direct lines to Göreme (10 TL), but more frequent lines to Avanos, where you can transfer to a local bus for the remaining 9km to Göreme; the station is unmarked and the ride costs 2.5 TL.

If you have a hotel transfer option, take it: it is much more convenient.

Get around

The town of Goreme is very, very small, and you can walk to the tiny center within minutes from any part of town. Available for rent are mountain bikes, scooters, motorcycles and all terrain quads. There is regular bus service to Nevşehir (every half hour as of Oct. 2008), and from there to regional destinations including the underground cities at Kaymaklı and and Derinkuyu. Goreme is very, very small and there is not much to do. Dolmus (minibus) service runs approx. every hour to nearby larger towns like Avanos and every two hours to Urgup. However, the last dolmus services to all towns, including Nevsehir, are in the late afternoon, and you will need to check the schedule in advance to avoid getting stuck.

While the valleys are close to Goreme, it is best to rent a car or take a tour to see the major sights, such as the underground city and the best fairy chimneys, as they are located far away from town and are difficult to reach by public transportation (with the exception of the underground cities, which are easily reached by bus (dolmus)).

See

Love Valley

There are many, many travel agencies in Goreme, all of which offer the same one day packages that include a stop at one of the underground cities, a walk through the ancient churches decorated with frescoes, and finally a stop at a carpet/pottery/oynx shop. Avoid buying at the shops, however, as you pay 2-3 times higher through commissions.

• Göreme Open Air Museum. The museum has a collection of caves and fairy chimneys. Be sure to visit the church in a cave across the highway outside the museum entrance, whıch is included in museum admission (save your ticket). The museum is very small and repetitive (church next to church next to church). Some have nice frescos, but other have geometric motifs that can be seen for free in the chimneys across the street (easy hike). 15 YTL, 8 YTL extra for the Dark Church.

Dark Church

three Fairy Chimneys

Do

Most of the main attractions in Cappadocia (the underground cities, Pasabagi (Monks' Valley), Devrent (camel rock), Ihlara gorge, and Soganli Valley) are within driving distance (but not walking distance) from Goreme. Uchisar castle and the Goreme Open Air Museum are within walking distance. Cars are available for rent in the airports or in the town, and there is little traffic on the two lane roads, so driving is very easy and not stressful. There are also many, many travel agencies in town which run the same tour to the sights and to shopping points.

• Sunset Point - The view at sunset (or sunrise with the balloons) is pleasant, though nothing spectacular. Everyone in town knows sunset point.

• Hiking - Following the paths along the valleys is an amazing (and free) option. Check with your hotel owner or the tourist office for a map of the area with suggested walks and trails. There are several nice loops on packed dirt, sand and rock, that maintain a constant elevation and pass through the scenic valleys. However, the best views require some uphill climbs. Hiking can be extremely unpleasant and even dangerous in the scorching hot summers; though extremely rare, deaths have occurred as a result of the combination of heat and physical activity. Take lots of water, and prepare to return drenched in sweat.
  • Pigeon/Love/Red & Rose valleys can be walked individually or together and each 'trail' offers different landscapes. Pigeon valley walk starts from the end of the street Flinstone's Hotel is on and leads to Uçhisar (approx 1 hr). Love Valley starts from the Onyx Factory at the bottom of Uçhisar and takes you to Çavuşin (approx 1 hr). Red & Rose Valley is on the way back to Göreme and can be seen on a 2 hour 15TL sunset tour (available everywhere) or you can easily spend 1-4 hours walking around the valleys independently. All stunning landscapes and fun to walk around. Unfortunately the paths are poorly marked. Some are dangerous for days after it rains as they require passing through narrow areas above the valley floor and become slippery when wet.

• Hamami/Turkish Bath - There is a Turkish bath near the center of town to relax after a long day of hiking. The standard service for steam room, mud face mask, soap massage, and scrubbing is 60 TRY. An additional tip for your bath attendant is strongly urged.

For a cheaper option take the 15 min. scenic minibus ride to the nearby city of Nevsehir where you can get the same service in a non-tourist place for as low as 25 TL. Just get off at the main intersection in Nevsehir and ask around for "Hamam".

• Turkish Night Dinner. Nightly show 8PM-11PM. Hotels and agencies will offer to take you to a Turkish dinner show in an underground restaurant. It is very touristy with dance troupes, dervish dancing, etc. The food is ok and beer, wine, and raki is unlimited, though the quality is not good. The shows actually take place in nearby Avanos or Uchisar, but booking includes transportation. 80 TL.

Dervish dancing at Turkish Night

Buy

Pottery - Avanos, 10 km away, has been a pottery center for centuries. Many stores will sell pottery in Goreme, and you may end up at a pottery workshop at the end of a tour, but for the best prices, head into Avanos and wander around the back streets. Compare the prices and quality, and if you are worried about it surviving shipping/your backpack, ask them to stand on it to test the strength (vases, jugs, and larger objects should take their weight). While the quality in touristy shops is often high, you will be paying 2-3 times what you otherwise would.

PotteryStore

Carpets - Goreme and the surrounding area are known as one of the top places to buy carpets in Turkey. Their proximity to well known local weaving villages means the prices are generally cheaper than Istanbul and the atmosphere for purchasing far more relaxed with few if any hassles. For dealers, try Tribal Collections -Nomadic Rugs & Textiles- they get the best reviews.

Inspect carpets carefully before purchasing. Many carpet sellers buy used carpets from Turkish houses and "fix" them to sell to tourists at inflated prices. If you purchase one of these carpets, the price should be much, much lower. If you want a guaranteed new carpet, there are several carpet-weaving centers in Goreme, Avanos and other towns where you can watch the weavers working. (In Goreme, visit Gallery Cappadocia, behind AlaTurka restaurant.)

Don't forget to bargain hard!

Potter

Eat

Goreme has a wide selection of typical Kebabs and Pide, as well as some unusual 'pottery' dishes that are prepared and served in a clay pot which you can 'break' open. Often the 'pottery kebabs' are precooked earlier in the day so check around to see which restaurants require a 'pottery kebab' booking - it's likely that they will be the places that make the kebab on the spot (they take about an hour to cook). Many of the restaurants change hands on a regular basis, making specific recommendations difficult.

That said, Alaturca, with mains from 15-20 YTL, is considered to be one of the finer dining establishments in central Turkey, but is overpriced for the quality of food and a stiff service that is out of place in an otherwise informal town. Alaturca is on the secondary road that heads towards the open Air Museum.

• Cappadocia Kebap Center, Müze Cad. (just south of bus station across canal, it's small so look carefully). Good food at competitive prices, a standard döner sandwich is 4 TL for example.

• Meeting Point Cafe, Müze Caddesi (near the Canal). Cenap and Eliza are very friendly hosts; Eliza, being a South African Malay cooks delicious curry. Taste the excellent smoothies and fresh juices (orange and watermelon or watermelon and ginger are great). The cafe serves alcohol, which is very expensive.

• Manzara Restaurant, (up the hill from the center of town). With one of the best views in town, catching the sunset from the upper deck is a must do in Cappadocia. They also have a lower deck and indoor dining with a fireplace. The kebab plate is a good choice for dinner.

• Firin Express, (off the main street by the junction). Has freshly baked and wonderful Pide and Lahmacun for a few Lira.

• Safran Restaurant, (just down from the museum street after the see bank. First highest terrace in the middle of the center), ☎ +90 536 620 76 56 (mobile of John the manager) ([email protected]). Climb the stone steps to this charming terrace restaurant run by a friendly family from Malatya in Eastern Turkey who have worked in hospitality in Goreme for approximately 20 years. Emine is a superb cook. What makes the food of this restaurant amazing is that this is the only restaurant in the town whatsoever that makes both the eastern and western foods. Ilker, Emine's German-born nephew speaks excellent English and cooks delicious manti, Turkish ravioli, if he can be coaxed into it.

• Nazar Borek, (just up from Meeting Point Cafe). A small pastry cafe with outside wooden seating area on a platform above the canal. Proprietors Top Deck (Mustafa) and Reyfik are fantastic hosts. Their sweet and savoury pastries good value and delicious.

• Orient Restaurant, (on the way out of the village on the Uçhisar, Nevsehir road). A nicely decorated eating joint that can provide both not-too-expensive top end meals and fare to suit tighter budgets. Proprietor Refayi speaks excellent English and French.

• Old Cappadocia Cafe & Restaurant, Hakkipasa Meydani Isalli mahallesi (opposite of central mosque), ☎ 0384 271 2858, [1]. Homemade meal on your table. The mother is cooker, the father is baker and the son is waiter. All staff from in family. If you believe family kitchen, just visit there. 5 TL.

• Silk Road Kebabs has excellent and filling chicken kebab (get the 1/2 loaf) for 2.50 TL.

Drink

Simply walking by shops will open invitations for tea.

Tourists looking for a fun night on the town had best stick to the beaches, or stay in nearby Urgup or Avanos. Most bars have been closed down in recent years, and there are only one or two dive bars with scant clientele remaining. There are no discos left in Goreme. The social scene is much livelier in nearby Avanos and especially Urgup, which are larger towns offering discos, bars, cafes, and dining options. However, there is no public transportation to these towns after late afternoon, and taxis are expensive. Speeding, drunk or intoxicated driving, and fatal accidents are common here, so be careful travelling back and forth. Though expensive, it is best to go by taxi.

Sleep

Göreme has almost 200 hostels, hotels, and guest houses. In fact, most of the town has been overtaken by hotels, travel agencies, carpet shops, souvenir stores, and restaurants, ensuring healthy competition for rates and a short walk to the center (no more than 4 minutes) from wherever you stay. The friendly (and tout-free) accommodation office can help you find something, but you can get better rates walking around and comparing prices yourself (don't forget to bargain!). Upmarket and boutique hotels also exist in Göreme. Many places include breakfast in these prices (as of Mar 2008). As of 2012, prices have become higher - 20 TL is the starting point for dorm beds with breakfast, and doubles run upward of 50 TL.

Many of Göreme's hostels and hotels offer the unusual option of sleeping in a cave. Much of the rock in the area is sandstone (tufa) which is fairly soft, and for centuries rooms (and houses) have been created by cutting directly into the soft rock. Comforts in these 'cave rooms' range from truly cave like to beautiful and tasteful with modern bathrooms. However, be warned that cave rooms are often very humid and damp, and may not be suitable for those with breathing difficulties such as COPD, asthma, or respiratory infections. Many tourists get sick from the humidity in these rooms. Higher quality accommodations will have ventilation systems and windows, which may alleviate the problem to a certain degree.

While Goreme's nightlife scene is nearly extinct, the town can still be very loud during night and day, and many discerning travellers looking for an escape from the noise and the hassling of shop and restaurant owners have begun to stay in the nearby town (4 km) of Cavusin, where many boutique hotels have sprung up in recent years. Many hotels offer free transportation to and from Goreme. Cavusin is located closer to Red Valley, Rose Valley, and Love Valley than Goreme.

Budget

Most budget accommodations are located in the same area of town, and thus it is easy to compare prices. Facing the bus station's offices, head to the right and turn left at the road running perpendicular to the main road. Walk past the shops. At Dibek restaurant, before crossing the road bridge, turn right and head uphill. You will see a sign with the names of many hostels and hotels. Don't be afraid to bargain and compare prices.

• (Gümüş) Silver Cave Hotel, ☎ +90 384 271 2438 ([email protected], fax: +90 384 2712821), [2]. Informal & friendly service, clean rooms with en-suite shower/wc, and very reasonable rates make this hotel/pension a pleasure to stay in. Located in Göreme 5 minutes walk from the bus station, Gümüş makes a great starting point for exploration of the surrounding areas. Help with planning tours and visits to local culture is available upon request. Facilities include a cave bar, flower garden, barbecue & laundry service. Breakfast is included. Single €15, doubles from €25, triples from €35. +€10 for Deluxe rooms.

• Shoestring Cave Hostel, ([email protected], fax: +90 384 271 22 99), [3]. checkout: 10am. A good budget option with authentic cave rooms and dorm at 20 TL per person. Heat and hot water are solar powered often leaving a scarcity of heat in the cooler spring and fall seasons. A Turkish breakfast buffet is included. The common are has 2 computers for use. En-suite double room €35.

• Star Cave Pension, [4]. Great outdoor lounges and relaxed atmosphere. Includes a mediocre breakfast. All rooms built in caves with ensuites. Don't expect for promises of free transfers to the bus station to come to fruition though as the manager forgot us. The receptionist walked us. The Australian seems to have left to be replaced with a middle aged and a young Turkish guy. They were not good hosts unless you were handing them money. Whereas many hostels make cheap meals at a nominal price, this hostel offers an occasional meal at restaurant prices. Although it is not bad, going to an actual restaurant might be more economical. Dorm 20TL, doubles start at 70TL.

• Kookaburra Pension, Konak Sokak 10. Not far from the bus stop, walking south you should see a sign pointing the right direction. The signs disappear closer to the hostel, but any one around should be able to point you toward the small uphill alley. Beautiful view over the city, relaxed placed in a central location, free wi-fi, but many people have reported the owner as being incredibly rude. Staff is nice and helpful, but not very knowledgeable about the area. Breakfasts 3-5 TL, and uninspiring. Laundry service 15 TL. After lots of bad reviews on TripAdvisor, don't expect this place to be packed. Dorm 20TL, Double 50-60 TL.

• Flintstones. A bit up the creek; literally! It's up the dry riverbed from the scooter and bicycle rental near the bus station (and in fact, almost at the start of the pigeon valley hike) but they have nice rooms, a dorm, a pool and laundry service. And yes, you get to sleep in a cave so there might be some insects there. They have the same solar heated showers so be early or be cold. There are some mixed reviews though. 20 TL/double room.

• Local Cave House Hotel, [5]. Located in the center of Goreme, offers 9 cave rooms 1 family cave suite 1 honeymoon suite, deluxe suites with double and single bed.

• Rock Valley Pension, (300 metres from bus stop, plenty of signs along the road), ☎ +90 384 2712153 ([email protected], fax: +90 384 2712821), [6]. Great place to stay, with swimming pool and huge lounge area. Extremely friendly staff. Includes an impressive free breakfast and free wi-fi internet. Dorm 20 TL, double rooms from 50 TL.

• Nomad Cave Hostel, (5 minute walk from the bus station), ☎ +90 384 271-22-04, [7]. checkout: 10AM. €12.

• Kelebek Pension, Kelebek Pension Aydinli Mah., ☎ (+90) 384 271 2531, [8]. A simple, very beautiful hotel/pension. The rooms are nice and there's a beautiful, airy common area for relaxing, eating breakfast, and using the internet. I stayed in a small inexpensive room (with medieval frescoes on the roof) but some of the rooms are quite grand. €35 +.

• Ottoman House. Simple and affordable hotel with friendly, English speaking staff. Breakfast is included and the rooftop views boast views of the hot air balloons taking off.

• Arif Cave Pension Hotel, Aydınkıragı Mah, ☎ +90 384 271-23-61, [9]. checkin: 11AM; checkout: 10:30AM. Cave rooms at the top of Göreme town where you are able watch around. You can watch the sunset from the terrace. €35.

• Cave Life Pension, Eski Bağ Yolu (5 mins up the hill from the bus station, hotel's manager can pick you up if you call them), ☎ +90 384 271-29-36, [10]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 10AM. Just near Goreme Open Air museum with a beautiful view from the terrace. Free wi-fi in public areas. Extremely friendly and helpful staff. From €40 incl. breakfast.

Mid Range

• Traveller's Cave Pension, Gaferli Mah. No:28 (5 minutes walk from Goreme bus station: free pick up from Goreme bus station), ☎ +90 0384-271-2707 ([email protected], fax: 0384-271-2624), [11]. checkin: 24-hour; checkout: 10AM. located at high position at Goreme, with great Goreme national park view from their room and terrace. offers great breakfast, hospitality, cheaper OP tours and other service

• Traveller's Cave Hotel, Aidinli Mahallesi Görceli Sokak no 7 (5 minutes walk from the bus station: free pick up from bus station), ☎ +90 384 271-27-80 ([email protected]"), [12]. checkin: 24-hour. Located at high position. Good breakfast, books tours and other service (partner with HIRO tours), good free WiFi. €50-70.

Stay safe

Police Station at Open Air museum

ladder and chimney with foot-support

Cappadocia is quite a conservative region, and tourists coming from Istanbul or the coasts are often surprised at the difference. Almost all women in Nevsehir and the less-touristed small towns use hijab. Women and teens should wear pants or long shorts, and shirts with sleeves. Short shorts, miniskirts or short dresses, and tank tops or "belly shirts" are UNACCEPTABLE attire in Cappadocia. Women who are underdressed are viewed as "asking for it" - and may be subjected to staring, verbal harassment, groping or other forms of sexual assault. It is highly advised to respect the local culture and dress appropriately to avoid drawing unwanted attention.

The extreme summer heat makes hiking highly uncomfortable and occasionally dangerous; dehydration is common in hikers. Women should not go hiking in the valleys alone as there have been a few incidents over the years.

Hotels and homes burn coal for heat, creating a thick black smog in winter which can aggravate respiratory conditions.

It is not recommended to hitch rides with the locals after dark. Drunk (or otherwise intoxicated) driving and speeding are very common, as are fatal accidents, particularly on the roads between Goreme-Avanos and Goreme-Urgup.

There is a high concentration of stray animals here, but they are quite friendly and nothing to be afraid of.

Get out

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!