A nice looking 100-year-old house in Beverly
The Far Southwest Side of Chicago is home to a large Irish-American community, a ton of Irish pubs, and even a replica Irish castle.
Chicago's Far Southwest Side is absolutely not one of the city's main tourist attractions, but it does offer an interesting mix of South Side and Irish culture (i.e., the authentic Irish pubs are here). Until 2009, the area was a major international tourist destination on Saint Patrick's Day for its magnificent parade, the largest Saint Patrick's Day neighborhood parade in the world outside of Dublin. Today however, perhaps owing to a desire to avoid greatness and to become yet another boring, middling, mildly suburban area of little distinction, the neighborhood has decided to end the parade because it "had become something too big."
Beverly is the most distinctive of the Far Southwest neighborhoods and probably has the most to offer travelers. Here you will find Givens Castle, the Ridge Historical Society of Beverly and Morgan Park, and plenty of Irish pubs. You might want to visit just for a change in topography — Beverly is the only neighborhood in Chicago with hills, lending it the odd-sounding nickname Beverly Hills. Along with Morgan Park to the south, Beverly is one of Chicago's few racially integrated neighborhoods, with a sizable African-American minority living side-by-side with the neighborhood's large Irish-American community.
Mount Greenwood is a large middle class area of Chicago, home to many of the city's Irish-American firefighters and police officers and to St Xavier University. For those in search of an authentic Irish-American neighborhood, look no further. No tourists make it out here and the pubs will transport you straight back to the Emerald Isle.
If you have a car at your disposal, use it. Chicago's Far Southwest Side is not well served by mass transit and parking is plentiful throughout the district. If coming from the north, take Pulaski Rd or Western Ave; both are major roads and will get you there quickly. From I-57, take either the US-1/Halsted Avenue exit south to 103rd St, or the 111th St exit. From I-294, the simplest route is to head north from the Cicero Avenue exit and then to turn right on 115th or 111th St.
The Metra Rock Island line to Joliet passes through Beverly and Morgan Park. A one-way trip from downtown LaSalle Station to 103rd St will cost $3.05.
If taking the bus is an absolute necessity, then the best way to reach this area from the north is via CTA Route 49 (Western), with a transfer to Pace Route 349 (South Western) at 79th St. Route 349 will take you within walking distance of most attractions in the district. Do not take any routes running any east of Western, as they both end short of the district as well as run through some rough neighborhoods. All transit service in this area ends after midnight, so make sure you have enough money to get back via taxi (you will need to call for one) if you plan to spend the night at one of the neighborhood pubs.
Every South Side Irish neighborhood needs a haunted castle
- Givens Irish Castle (Beverly Unitarian Church), 10244 S Longwood Dr, ☎ +1 773 233-7080. Call in advance for hours. Certainly the oddest sight in Chicago's Far Southwest Side, this building is a replica of castle on Ireland's River Dee, built by a nostalgic and wealthy Irish-American for his fiancee in 1885. Today, the castle houses Beverly's Unitarian congregation and offers a yearly Halloween "Haunted Castle." Beyond the deliberate scares, the castle is purportedly haunted by an actual ghost: a young girl who used to live here. She tends to show up, wearing a long dress, during weddings or parties where alcohol is being served.
- Ridge Historical Society, 10621 S Seeley Ave, ☎ +1 773 881-1675 ([email protected]), . Su-Th 2PM-5PM. This historical society focuses on the Beverly and Morgan Park neighborhoods and offers tours, assistance with area research, and small, thoughtful exhibits such as a costume room and a doll house collection.
- Saint Xavier University Art Gallery, 3700 W 103rd St, ☎ +1 773 298-3081, . M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-3PM. A rotating gallery of works by professional artists.
- Beverly Arts Center of Chicago, 2407 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 445-3838, . M-F 10AM-9PM, Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. The Beverly Arts Center is a community arts center offering film screenings, dance and dramatic performances, and monthly art gallery exhibits.
- South Side Irish Parade, Runs along Western Ave from 104th St to 115th St, ☎ +1 773 393-8687 ([email protected]), . Noon, Su, 15 March 2009. This parade is a good deal larger and more energetic than the comparably staid celebration downtown the day prior. It started in 1979, almost spontaneously, after Mayor Daley had moved the original parade to the Loop. Remember that Beverly is a dry town east of Western Ave, whereas the western side of the avenue is lined with pubs. Accordingly, the east side of the parade is much more family-friendly than the somewhat rowdy west. Parking is easiest to the west of the parade and the churches to the east often provide refuge to those who came for the parade, but found the March weather too cold. While the parade itself starts at noon, festivities kick off at 8:30AM at St Cajetan Church (112th St & Artesian), with a performance of Irish songs and music, followed by mass. If you care to start even earlier, the pubs will be packed on Saturday night for "pre-parties."
- Heritage Gallery, 1915 W 103rd St, ☎ +1 773 233-0084 (fax: +1 773 233-0091), . M-F 10AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-4PM. This art gallery features the original works of its owner, Jack Simmerling, who specializes in pen-and-inks of Chicago landmarks and watercolors of Ireland.
- Hynes' Irish Cottage, 1907 W 103rd St, ☎ +1 773 429-0666, . Tu-Sa 11AM-7PM. You can buy just about anything related to Ireland here, from Waterford crystal, to Belleek China, from Shamrock studded sweaters to maps of Limerick.
- Beverly Hills Gallery, 2133-35 W 95th St, ☎ +1 773 239-7460, . M, Sa 10AM-7PM, T-F 10AM-7PM. This gallery sells fine art from all over the world and specializes in Celtic art by Courtney Davis.
- World Folk Music Company, 1808 W 103rd St, ☎ +1 773 779-7059, . M-Th 10AM-9PM, F 10AM-6PM, Sa 9AM-5PM. A music shop selling instruments, sheet music, and CDs, which also hosts concerts by local folk musicians.
- African American Images Bookstore, 1909 W 95th St, ☎ +1 773 445-0322. M-F 11AM-7PM, Sa 9AM-7PM. This bookstore focuses on books by or about African-Americans and African-American culture. It also sells various pieces of African art and clothing. Offers weekly events such as author talks and poetry readings.
- Bev Art Brewer and Winemaker Supply, 10033 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 233-7579, . Tu-Sa 6AM-7PM. Come here to make your own wine and beer, under the store's guidance. It also sells all the equipment you'd need to brew at home (or your hotel), if you prefer to get even deeper into Chicago history with a Prohibition-style experience.
- David McClain Antiques, 2716 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 239-4683. noon-6PM daily. David McClain runs his antique business out of his house and offers a quite large collection of furniture and some paintings and sculptures.
- Grich Antiques, 10857 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 233-8734. M-Sa 11AM-3PM. Grich has a lot of antiques and a wide selection on offer. Come prepared to bargain.
- Ms Priss, 9915 S Walden Pkwy, ☎ +1 773 233-7747, . T-F 11AM-6PM, Sa 11AM-4PM. Women's boutique shopping is not Beverly's forte, but Ms Priss will definitely beat your expectations.
- My Sister's Knits, 9907 S Walden Pkwy, ☎ +1 773 238-4555, . T-Th 11AM-6:30PM, F noon-9PM, Sa 10AM-4PM, Su noon-4PM. A small, friendly, and rather bohemian, knitting and yarn shop.
- Optimo Hat Company, 10215 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-2999, . A very snazzy specialty custom hat shop. $200-300.
- R & J Collectibles, 11400 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 779-8828. M-Sa 11AM-7PM. Offers various items from watches to books, mostly from the 1940s-60s.
- Safari Marketplace, 1403 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 233-8307 (fax: +1 773 779-2007). 8AM-6PM daily. An eclectic store offering African-American related items from audio tapes of Louis Farrakhan to African clothing and board games. The store also has a section devoted to world musical instruments.
- Best Bar-B-Q, 1648 W 115th St, ☎ +1 773 239-1522. Tu-Su 11AM-2AM, M 11AM-10PM. Southside carryout ribs and chicken joint. $3-6.
- Beverly Bakery & Cafe, 10528 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-5580. Tu-F 5:30AM-4PM, Sa 7AM-5PM, Su 8AM-1PM; breakfast & lunch served until 3PM daily. This family-owned bakery is always a tasty place to stop by, but is an especially good stop around St Patrick's Day, when it offers various Irish treats.
- Canton Inn, 11824 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 233-5259. T-Th 11:30AM-9:30PM, F-Sa 11:30AM-10:30PM, Su 1PM-9PM. A Chinese take-out restaurant. $5-8.
- Frank's Chicago Shrimp, 10410 S Kedzie Ave, ☎ +1 773 445-3100. Su-Th 11AM-9PM, W-Sa 11AM-10PM. A small hole-in-the wall with that has been serving Chicago-style shrimp, mostly for take-out, for decades. $3-5.
- Grant's Wonderburger Grill, 11045 S Kedzie Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-7200. M-Sa 10:30AM-8PM. A family-owned local landmark serving burgers and curly fries since 1959. $2-5.
- Harold's Chicken Shack, 11857 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 779-9911. 11AM-2AM daily. The great South Side fried chicken chain is cheap, usually a little dirty, and always delicious. $2-5.
- Janson's Drive-In, 9900 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-3612. M-F 10AM-10PM, Sa 11AM-10PM, Su 11AM-6PM. A classic, neon-adorned, drive-in fast food joint with great Chicago hot dogs. $2-5.
- Lindy's Chili & Gertie's Ice Cream, 11009 S Kedzie Ave, ☎ +1 773 779-7236, . M-Th 10:30AM-10PM. A chili and burgers joint sharing the space with a traditional ice cream parlor. $2-6.
- The Original Rainbow Cone, 9233 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-7075. 11AM-10:30PM daily, March-December. For over 80 years South Side families have enjoyed the rainbow cone, a five-flavored ice cream treat of chocolate, pistachio, strawberry, Palmer House, and orange sherbet.
- Richie's, 3123 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 298-1548, . T-Th 11AM-10PM, F-Sa 11AM-11PM, Su 4PM-9PM. A good value Italian restaurant. Don't pass up the seafood. $9-14.
- Top Notch Beefburger Shop, 2116 W 95th St, ☎ +1 773 445-7218, . M-Sa 7AM-8PM. A south side burger institution since the 1950s with seriously juicy burgers made from quality beef. $2-8.
- Nicky's Yogurt Oasis (Yogurt and Hot Dogs), 10255 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 233-3072. 10AM-10PM daily. Beverly's top Chicago style grilled fast food option, with an extra dose of frozen yogurt and ice cream. It's a beloved shop, and it's almost always crowded. $2-5.
- Fox's Beverly Pub, 9956 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 239-3212. M-Th 11AM-11PM. A neighborhood Irish pub that is more of a restaurant than a bar, offering Irish and Italian food, as well as superb Chicago thin-crust pizza. $8-13.
- Franconello's Italian Restaurant, 10222 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 881-4100. M-Th 11AM-10PM, F 11AM-10:30PM, Sa 3PM-10:30PM. An Italian restaurant serving hearty portions of solid (if a bit overpriced) food. $9-14.
- Giordano's, 9613 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 445-6255, . Su-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-midnight. One of the best locations for Giordano's pizza. The restaurant's specialty is its heart-devastating stuffed Chicago pizza, although it also serves plenty of other Italian entrees. It also makes a fine thin-crust pizza, but if you are in the Far Southwest, you should probably get your thin crust from the masters at Vito & Nick's or Fox's. $10-23.
- Veggie Bite, 3031 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 239-4367, . noon-10PM daily. A Chicago junk-food establishment with a surprising all vegan twist. Try the Italian "beef" melt (made with organic flour and soy cheese?!) and wash it down with a glass of carrot juice. $8-12.
- Waldo Cooney's, 2410 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 233-9781, . M-Th 11AM-11PM, F-Sa 11AM-12:30AM, Su noon-11:30PM. A quality pizzeria serving thin crust and stuffed Chicago pies. $7-18.
- Koda, 10352 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 445-5632, . Lunch M-F 11AM-2PM; Dinner: T-Sa 5PM-10:30PM, Su 4-9PM. An upscale French bistro and bar with a contemporary and interesting menu. Don't be fooled into thinking this will be good "for the South Side" — the food here is really top-notch. $20-30.
Aside from the parade, a drink may be the number one reason to make the trek out to the Far Southwest Side. Chicago is a city full of fake Irish pubs, but the only ones where the clientèle and servers speak with a brogue are down here, mostly along Western Avenue.
- Cork & Kerry, 10614 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 445-2675, . M-F 2PM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su noon-2AM. An unpretentious neighborhood Irish pub that doesn't serve food and has a great beer garden for the summer months.
- Corrigan's Restaurant and Pub, 3047 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 298-1315. Bar: M-F 3PM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM, Su 10AM-midnight, Restaurant: Su-Th 3PM-10PM, F 3PM-midnight, Sa noon-midnight. A community-oriented Irish pub that serves corned beef and cabbage if you are feeling in an Irish mood.
- Gilhooley's Grande Saloon, 3901 W 103rd St, ☎ +1 773 233-2200 (fax: +1 773 233-5103). M-Th 11AM-1AM, F-Sa 11AM-2AM, Su 11AM-9PM. A rather upscale, stylish, and attractive pub across the street from St Xavier's, offering a small selection of sandwiches and burgers to accompany a very large selection of drinks. Live bands perform F-Sa, while the neighborhood performs on open-mic Wednesdays. $5-8.
- Jeremy Lanigan's Irish Pub, 3119 W 111th St, ☎ +1 773 233-4004. Su-F noon-2AM, Sa noon-3AM. Come here to drink and reminisce about the old country. This pub is frequented by Irish nationals and puts on amateur live Irish music F-Su.
- Keegan's Pub, 10618 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 233-6829. M-F 2PM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su noon-2AM. A friendly neighborhood pub that may well serve the best pint of Guinness in Chicago. It's also right next door to Cork & Kerry, so you can switch between the two if you're unsatisfied with the one.
- Mrs O'Leary's Dubliner, 10910 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-0784. Su-F noon-2AM, Sa noon-3AM. Well, the name probably gives away that this is an Irish pub. It is very low-key and very popular with Irish immigrants. It's arguably the most authentic pub in the area.
- Sean's Rhino Bar & Grill, 10330 S Western Ave, ☎ +1 773 238-2060. M-F 1PM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su noon-2AM. More of a sports bar than the rest, but in this neighborhood everything pretty much winds up being an Irish pub. Live bands perform on Saturday nights.
Chicago's Far Southwest Side is a black hole as far as travel accommodations are concerned; if you are planning to stay in the area, you should try the Hilton just across the city boundaries in Oak Lawn, one of the Midway Airport-serving hotels in Bedford Park, or one of the many hotels by the Tri-State Tollway in Alsip.
- Hilton Oak Lawn, 9333 South Cicero Avenue, ☎ +1 708 425-7800 (fax: +1 708 425-1665), . checkin: 3PM; checkout: noon. A fairly standard Hilton, which offers a free shuttle to Midway Airport. $141.
- Beverly Branch Library, 2121 W 95th St, ☎ +1 312 747-9673. M-F 9AM-9PM, Sa 9AM-5PM. A big, modern facility with free public internet access as well as a very large selection of books. Its 3,500-item "Irish Collection" is especially noteworthy.
- Mount Greenwood Branch Library, 11010 S Kedzie Ave, ☎ +1 312 747-2805. M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM. Free public internet access.
- Walker Branch Library, 11071 S Hoyne Ave, ☎ +1 312 747-1920. M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM. Free public internet access.
- The Far Southwest Side has the city's largest Irish-American population, but the more famous (and politically-connected) one is in Bridgeport, home of the Daleys.