Ramkhamhaeng (Thai: รามคำแหง) is a vast district that lies along Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major arterial road in eastern Bangkok. The area could be considered a suburb and is almost completely unknown to foreign travellers, with the notable exception of Suvarnabhumi Airport. Most of the venues cater to locals that have their own transport, so attractions are spread far out and it is hard to get around. Hua Mark and Bang Kapi in the southwest are the most interesting neighbourhoods, and also the easiest to navigate through as the Saen Saep Express Boat runs right through them. These are lively areas with shopping malls and restaurants that cater to commuters and students from the universities.
Eastern Bangkok almost stands synonymous to Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major traffic artery that gets jammed every morning and evening with daily commuters working in downtown. Rising property values in Sukhumvit has made this area more interesting to foreign expatriates in recent years, although seeing a farang is still a rare occurrence. With a total length of 18 kilometers, Ramkhamhaeng Road starts at Phetchaburi Road near Sukhumvit and ends far in the northeast at the junction with Suwinthawong Road (in the neighbourhood Min Buri).
The lower southwestern part is known as Hua Mark, a neighbourhood completely dominated by Ramkhamhaeng University. "RU", as it is commonly known, was opened in 1971 as Thailand's first open-admission university. It has an astonishing amount of students — official statistics state about half a million, almost all of them undergraduates. The university gave the neighbourhood its lively appearance, with many students shopping and dining at The Mall Ramkhamhaeng. Rajamangala Stadium can also be found here. Completed in 1998, it played an important role in the 1998 Asian Games and the 2007 AFC Asian Cup. It is also used as the current stadium of Thailand's national football team.
The junction with Srinagarindra Road is known as Lam Sali intersection. Go north from here and you'll stumble at Lat Phrao Road, which marks the beginning of a neighbourhood known as Bang Kapi. It is actually quite similar to Hua Mark, as everything still looks like a big grey mass of concrete, but students are outrun here by daily commuters. The Mall Bangkapi stole the hearts of the locals, and Thais flock to it in big numbers. For foreigners, there is actually not that much to do. Attractions are few and far off, and the shopping malls are lacking compared to those in other districts. It can easily be skipped on any Bangkok itinerary, but then you miss out on seeing where and how most of the locals live.
You would almost forget that nearly all foreign visitors to Thailand land here at Suvarnabhumi Airport in the far east of the district. Development in eastern Bangkok has been relatively slow, and it is expected that the recent construction of the airport will be the motor for more urban development in the area. Until now, this has at least been true for the hotel business, with many new hotels constructed at Lat Krabang Road trying to make a buck out of transferring passengers.
Bangkok and its traffic-congested commercial districts, including Ramkhamhaeng Road, are hard to navigate by car. Thus, the best way to get into the area is by boat. The Saen Saep Express Boat service runs on the canal of the same name, and you don't have to worry about getting stuck in traffic! The service runs about every 5 to 10 minutes and as the canal is exactly parallel to Ramkhamhaeng Road wit many stops along that road.
It is a fast and inexpensive way of transport as a single trip costs about 9 to 19 baht, depending on the distance travelled. The most important stops are The Mall Ram (in Hua Mark) and The Mall Bangkapi, both of which are served by the NIDA Line (that starts in Pratunam and goes all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung). The route is served by 100 boats of 40-50 seats, and operates from 05:30 to 20:30 daily. Most piers have English signs up, but be wary, as The Mall Ram does not have any sign at all, and from the boat it is not clear that you have reached the mall!
Be wary of sitting at the outer sides of the boat as polluted water from the canal sometimes spills over on-board. Also be careful when entering and exiting the boats as "safety first" does not seem to apply for the crew here. During rush hour, you might have to fight your way in the boat as too many people are trying to get on. Another minor annoyance is the noisy atmosphere during the ride, don't expect a sensual experience.
By public transit
Opened in August 2010, the Airport Rail Link is an alternative way of getting in. The City Line of that service has a stop at Ramkhamhaeng, which is at the utter southwest of the district at the beginning of Ramkhamhaeng Road. There is a direct service from Suvarnabhumi Airport in the east, as well as from Phaya Thai, Ratchaprarop and Makkasan stations in the west. Do not take the Express Line as it skips Ramkhamhaeng completely.
Getting to Ramkhamhaeng by bus is very troublesome, but at least its a cheap way of doing some exploring. Expect a long ride though, and ask a local where to get off as you easily get lost in traffic. An important route is bus 40, that starts at Hualamphong Train Station and then passes Rama IV Road, Phaya Thai Road, Siam Square, Sukhumvit, Pridi Phanomyong Road and Ramkhamhaeng Road with The Mall Ramkhamhaeng as its final destination.
Getting around this vast district is sure to give you a headache. The locals use their own transport for attractions that lie too far off a boat pier or ARL station. Of course, metered taxis are abundant, but expect long rides and high fares (especially during rush hour). Buses are cheaper, but without a decent bus map, you are sure to get lost. Bus 58 and 113 from Makkasan Station drive over Phetchaburi Road and then head for Ramkhamhaeng Road. Both are useful bus routes for getting around as they travel all along Ramkhamhaeng Road from Hua Mark in the southwest to Min Buri in the northeast (and back).
Palms outside the Prasart Museum
- Museum of Buddhism Art (พิพิธภัณฑ์พุทธศิลปะ), 104 Phattanakan Soi 40, ☎ +66 2 321-0048(-50). M-Sa 10:00-17:30. This museum features a large private collection of Buddha images and is operated by the Foundation of Thai Arts Preservation. The exhibition focuses on the art of Buddha images in accordance with Thai history. An international presentation comprising light, sound (chanting) and scent (incense) explains the information to the visitor in an air-conditioned room. Besides Buddha images and artefacts of different periods, there is also an area allocated to be a shrine and a museum dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy and other major gods of various beliefs in Asia. Make contact in advance if you want to visit. 250 baht.
- Prasart Museum, 9 Soi Krungthep Kritha 8 Yaek 14, ☎ +66 2 379-3601. F-Su 10:00-15:00, must call to RSVP. This eclectic museum sprawls across manicured gardens, pavilions, shrines, chapels, and even an exact replica of the teak Red Palace (built by King Rama I for his sister). On display are art and antiques from all eras of Thai history, as well books and manuscripts, and replicas of various prominent Thai architectural works. Mr. Prasart is usually around, and he and his staff will make sure you have a nice guided tour of the place. 500 baht.
- Rama IX Royal Park (สวนหลวง ร. 9), Udom Suk Rd (far south along Srinagarindra Road), ☎ +66 2 328-1395, . 06:00-18:00 daily. Built in 1987 to celebrate the 60th birthday of the present HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej, this is the largest public park of Bangkok. It consists of six zones: the Homage to His Majesty, the Botanical Garden, the Trapangkaew Resevoir, the Rommaniya Garden, the Sanam Rasdara and the Water Garden. It is very very deep down the sois of Sukhumvit, so its best to stop over a taxi to find it. 10 baht.
- Wat Thep Lila (วัดเทพลีลา), Ramkhamhaeng Soi 41 (Wat Thepleela pier; at the end of Soi 41). One of the few temples in the Ramkhamhaeng area, this is a local temple that shows how the local inhabitants practice Buddhism. It is a big compound, which is fairly lively with people praying and showing respect to the Buddha statues. It was built in 1842 during the reign of King Nangklao (King Rama III). At that time, the temple was known as Wat Tuek or Wat Tuek Khlong Ton. Saen Saep Canal was dug for transporting troops and weapons to Cambodia. During digging work, Pang Lila was found at this location, a 1.2 meters tall Sukhothai-style walking Buddha image. The temple was renamed to Wat Theplila during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.
- Major Cineplex Bangkapi, 3F, Lotus Supercenter, 3109 Lat Phrao Rd (The Mall Bangkapi pier), ☎ +66 2 378-2435(-7), . M-F 10:00-00:00, Sa-Su 09:00-00:00. 60-220 baht.
- Major Cineplex Ramkhamhaeng, 73 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (Ramkhamhaeng.29 pier), ☎ +66 2 319-3036(-8), . 10:30-00:00 daily. One of the Major Cineplex chain of cinemas, this is a fairly modern branch that is close to Ramkhamhaeng University. English movies are shown, and Thai movies have subtitles in English. There are plenty of shops and places to eat around if you want to kill time till your movie begins. 120 baht.
- Safari World (ซาฟารีเวิลด์), 99 Panyaintra Rd, ☎ +66 2 518-1000(-19), . M-F 09:00-16:30, Sa-Su, hols 09:00-17:30. Safari World is Bangkok's greatest open zoo and leisure park. The 300-acre complex comprises a safari park that is populated by African and Asian mammals, a marine park with amusing performances of well-trained dolphins and seals, a bird park and a games corner. 700 baht.
- Siam Park City (สวนสยาม), Sukhaphiban 2 Rd, ☎ +66 2 919-7200(-19), . 10:00-18:00 daily. This water amusement park contains a man-made sea with towering slides. Satellite attractions include children's playgrounds, aviaries, an open zoo and a botanical garden. 200 baht.
Endless clothes stalls at the street market
There are plenty of shopping malls in the area, and these are your best bet for getting daily necessities. If you want to buy cheap, there is an interesting street market running kilometers north along Ramkhamhaeng Road from The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 3. Many of the stalls only set up around 18:00, so the area is at its liveliest around 19:00. Expect endless stalls of clothes and accessories, mostly visited by local (female) commuters.
- Central Power Center Huamark, 177 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and 29), ☎ +66 2 718-6000. 09:00-23:00 daily. Another ordinary shopping mall, which is quite lively but not as crowded as in downtown. It looks a bit old, but is still a nice browse as prices are noticeably cheaper than in The Mall. As usual, most of the products cater to local 20-somethings, including clothes, accessories, bags, beauty products and mobile phones. There is also an ATM at Aeon Bank, which does not charge the 150 baht commission on using foreign cards.
- Fashion Island, 587-589 Ram Intra Rd (at the crossing of Ram Intra Road and the expressway), ☎ +66 2 947-5000, . M-F 11:00-21:00, Sa-Su, hols 10:00-21:00. Fashion Island is a large shopping mall that, as the name indicates, mostly focuses on fashion stores. But it's not just clothes, shoes and design, as there are plenty of books, gems, jewellery and furniture on sale. The usual chain restaurants, cafes and cinemas are also present, as is Robinson Department Store. There's even an amusement park with a monorail running around the mall.
- The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 2, 144 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (The Mall Ram pier), ☎ +66 2 310-1200, . M-F 10:30-22:00, Sa-Su, hols 10:00-22:00. This complex actually consists of two separate shopping malls, The Mall 3 at the northern side of Ramkhamhaeng Road and The Mall 2 at the southern side. Both are directly connected with each other and the road by an overhead pedestrian bridge. It is a good place to get something to eat, for example at Home Fresh Mart. There are plenty of chain restaurants too, including McDonald's at the side of the road.
- The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 3, 49 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (The Mall Ram pier), ☎ +66 2 310-1000, . M-F 10:30-22:00, Sa-Su, hols 10:00-22:00. The Mall 3 is rather generic and uninspiring, and anything on sale here can be found elsewhere in Bangkok (probably for less too). As it opened in 1986, it is obvious that it is older and more cramped than The Mall Bangkapi, but prices are somewhat cheaper. There are only a few escalators, so expect to walk the stairs to get to the upper levels. There are a lot of clothing stores, and clothes always seem to be on sale in the common space on the ground floor. Of course there are also the usual DVD and book stores, and a plethora of chain restaurants, such as KFC.
- The Mall Bangkapi, 3522 Lat Phrao Rd (The Mall Bangkapi pier), ☎ +66 2 173-1000, . M-F 10:30-22:00, Sa-Su, hols 10:00-22:00. A huge shopping mall that looks like it has just been pumped out of the ground (even while it already dates from 1994!). It looks brand new, shiny white and boasts four floors with all the chain stores you could possibly imagine. Thais absolutely love it, and flock to it in large numbers, but for travellers it is "been there done that". All the usual stores are in place, but at least it is a lively area with many commuters. Another plus is the Aeon Bank, which is the only bank that doesn't charge the 150 baht added commission for using foreign cards.
If you're looking for a quick snack, nearly all the sois of lower Ramkhamhaeng have carts serving simple street food for 50 baht or less. Aimed at the locals, prices at these street markets are remarkably cheaper than in common tourist spots. All three The Mall shopping centres have a big selection of chain restaurants in all shapes and sizes.
- Chlorophyll Bar and Grill, 82 Lat Phrao Soi 64 (just inside the soi from Lat Phrao Road), ☎ +66 8 707-0268. This Bali-inspired restaurant features outdoor dining in a quaint garden setting. They serve Thai and Japanese fair with an occasional musician at the weekends.
- Na Phra Ram 9 Market (ตลาดนัด พระรามเก้า), Ramkhamhaeng Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng, just south of the intersection with Rama IX Road). Just a simple street food market at the southern end of Ramkhamhaeng Road. It seems to be at its best during evening commute time, when many locals are picking up snacks at the hawker stalls. You can get many varieties of satay, fish, rice and many other things.
- Power Food Center, GF, Central Power Center Huamark, 177 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and 29), ☎ +66 2 718-6000. 09:00-23:00 daily. This is the food court of Central Power Center shopping mall, and it does a really good job at it. There are about a dozen separate counters for different kinds of food, including a Japanese, a Thai and a European food counter and a beverages counter. It works with a coupon system, so first buy coupons at the booth. Then you can spend these at any of the counters surrounding the central seating area. Recommended for those on a budget. 45-70 baht.
- Sinthorn Steak House, 3331/2 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between soi 85 and 87, near Lam Sali intersection), ☎ +66 2 377-7322, . 11:00-23:00 daily. This steak restaurant is touted as the largest halal restaurant in Thailand. Obviously they serve Arabian steaks, but also American steaks, European steaks, Italian food, Thai food and (from 16:00 onwards) Korean-style meat buffet. 300-1,000 baht.
There are plenty of coffee chains at the malls, including a Starbucks at The Mall Bangkapi. Some gay bars have congregated at Ramkhamhaeng Soi 89/2 near Lam Sali intersection. They are popular among Ramkhamhaeng University students.
- Jungle Jim's International Restaurant & Sports Bar, 165/5 Moo 3, Ramkhamhaeng Soi 112, ☎ +66 2 729-4763, . M-F 15:00-23:00, Sa-Su 07:30-23:00. Probably the only bar in the area that caters to foreigners living in the area. You can shoot some pool or sit outside at the lake. It's a place for relaxing, having a conversation and listening to music. There are 25 different kinds of beer on tap.
|This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
|| Under 1,000 baht
|| 1,000 baht to 2,500 baht
|| Over 2,500 baht
The western end of Ramkhamhaeng Road has lately become more popular among expatriates, as accommodation is cheaper than in Sukhumvit and Siam Square, while the Saen Saep Express Boat brings you to those districts in around 20 minutes. But further off it is still a long taxi ride to downtown.
The area around Lat Krabang Road has seen a fast development of hotels recently due to its proximity to Suvarnabhumi Airport. Many visitors stay the night here in case they arrive or take off at awkward times. Some visitors are only on transit and never even get to the city itself — for those, there are plenty of accommodation options for all budgets.
As Suvarnabhumi Airport is technically in Samut Prakan, there are also some accommodation options close to the airport in that province.
- Bangkok Rama Hotel, 1546 Phatthanakan Rd (between Phatthanakan Soi 48 and 50), ☎ +66 2 722-6612, . This accommodation offers a cable TV, mini-bar, refrigerator, radio and telephone. 575 baht.
- Nasa Vegas Hotel (โรงแรม นาซ่าเวกัส), 44 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng, at the intersection of Ramkhamhaeng Road and Kamphaeng Phet 7 Road), ☎ +66 2 719-9888, . You can't miss this hotel walking down the road as the building has an enormous size. Rooms are a bit small and furniture a bit dated, but they are clean, so for the money paid it is a good value. Not really close to the airport, but it is close to the Ramkhamhaeng ARL stop, which brings you to the airport in about 20 minutes. The downer of the ARL is that it runs right beside the hotel, which can give noise in some rooms. 890-2,900 baht.
Hotel map of Suvarnabhumi Airport
- Mariya Boutique Hotel, 1627/2 Lat Krabang Rd, ☎ +66 2 326-7854(-5), . This boutique hotel has 37 rooms, which are branded as either "deluxe" or "superior". All rooms have air-conditioning, cable TV, a refrigerator, and wireless internet, while only the superior rooms have a working desk and a seating area. There is also a restaurant attached to it. 1,200-2,000 baht.
- Grand Pinnacle Hotel, 444/4 Soi Maecham, Lat Krabang Rd (taxis have a difficult time finding it, so instead call the hotel for a free pick-up from the airport), ☎ +66 2 327-3876(-9), . This hotel is right at the edge of the airport, but surprisingly it has little aircraft noise. The staff at the desk speaks English well. There is no lift, so you have to walk up the stairs. Rooms are air-conditioned and have a room bar fridge, but the bathroom is a little cramped. A Western breakfast is included in the price, and while it is basic, it is satisfactory. There are restaurants on the road outside to the right of the hotel within a short distance. 1,500 baht.
- Great Residence Hotel, 1892/1 Lat Krabang Rd (free pick-up from the airport), ☎ +66 2 172-6150, . This hotel is only a five minutes ride from Suvarnabhumi Airport on the cusp of the airport grounds. Rate includes an American breakfast and a transfer from the airport. 1,800-2,600 baht.
- JL Bangkok, 5 Ramkhamhaeng Soi 23 (The Mall Ram pier), ☎ +66 2 369-2407(-9), . This is a boutique accommodation in a cosy and friendly atmosphere. It is only a one-minute walk to the night market and nearby malls. It is 23 kilometers from the airport, so not particularly close. The rate includes daily breakfast and free wireless Internet access. 1,400-2,200 baht.
- King Park Avenue Hotel, 9/999 Moo 1, Srinagarindra Rd (taxi or bus 553, close to Rama IX Royal Park), ☎ +66 2 748-1035(-49), . The visitors use this hotel as it is about a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. There are some shopping malls and a large park nearby, but for the rest, it's very far off from the centre of Bangkok. It has recently been remodeled, which is a good thing. Rooms are good, beds are comfy, breakfast is nice, and there's a friendly staff. 2,300-4,500 baht.
- MetroPoint Bangkok Hotel (เมโทร พ้อยท์ กรุงเทพ), 666 Lat Phrao Soi 130 (Wat Klang pier), ☎ +66 2 138-7777, . This hotel is quite far from the airport (about 22 kilometers), but it is close to the lively Bang Kapi neighbourhood and The Mall Bangkapi shopping mall. The hotel has 172 all non-smoking rooms that have private terraces and free Wi-Fi. 1,900-3,500 baht. (13.768596,100.632566)
- Queen's Garden Resort, 22 Lat Krabang Soi 7 (there's a free airport pick-up for confirmed bookings; go to exit door 4 or 5 at the airport and look for the employee holding the green Queen's Garden Resort sign), ☎ +66 2 172-6115, . On the banks of a sleepy river, the resort has views towards Lat Krabang Temple. It features high speed wireless internet, big screen TV, pool table, restaurant and beer garden. 1,000 baht.
- Regent Suvarnabhumi, 30-32/1 Lat Krabang Soi 22 (hard to find, so take the airport transfer), ☎ +66 2 326-4400, . This three-star hotel is very close to the airport, and is practical to spend the night before take off. It has been remodeled recently and looks very clean. Rooms are spacious with comfy beds, TV, a sofa and free Wi-Fi. Service is good too. There's a small shopping centre outside, but don't expect a lot for the rest. 1,200-1,450 baht.
- S.P. Power Lodge, 1473/3 Lat Krabang Rd, ☎ +66 2 327-1591(-5). Clean and basic hotel good for overnights while in transit at Suvarnabhumi Airport. If you go to the big green "tours" desk outside departures at Suvarnabhumi Airport, they will do an overnight with breakfast and a two-way transfer for 1,000 baht. Good rooms, free water and good internet. Truely only 15 minutes travel time and they do breakfast from 04:00. It is an ideal transit option. 1,000-1,500 baht. (13.72297753,100.7595943766667)
- Thong Ta Resort, 1888 Lat Krabang Rd, ☎ +66 2 326-7258(-9), . This budget hotel is mostly used for stopovers due to its proximity to the airport. A big downer is that many services have extra costs attached to them, including the pick-up from the airport. It does have large, clean and air-conditioned rooms with a small bathroom. No lift, so you have to carry your luggage upstairs. It is situated near a restaurant/bar parade, but there is not that much to do for the rest. The rate includes an American breakfast and free Wi-Fi in lobby and rooms. 1,000-1,500 baht.
- Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, 999 Moo 1, Suvarnabhumi Airport (inside the airport itself), ☎ +66 2 131-1111, . This is the only hotel that is actually inside the airport compound itself, connected to the main airport terminal by a pedestrian bridge. It's surprising how little airport noise you hear. It has been constructed together with the airport, so it is almost completely new and modern. It is very nice and, by Thai standards, very pricey. 5,000-7,000 baht.
Most of the hotels have free Wi-Fi, but inform before booking. Getting online on the streets is harder, but you can try the shopping malls. There's a Starbucks with paid Wi-Fi at The Mall Bangkapi. If you don't want to pay, there's free Wi-Fi at Assumption University in Ramkhamhaeng Soi 16 (Hua Mark). If you happen to be far out into the 'burbs, Fashion Island also has free Wi-Fi (but you need to register for a username and password; follow the instructions from the manual at their official website ).
If you keep driving on Ramkhamhaeng Road and continue on Suwinthawong Road, eventually you will end up in Chachoengsao. Here you can find the large Wat Sothon with a busy market in front of it (especially fun in the morning). In the evening, the market magically disappears, leaving no trace of its existence.
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