Church of the Virgin of the Holy Water
Baños (de Agua Santa) is a small city in the Andean highlands of Ecuador under the smoke of volcano Tungurahua. Its name, which is Spanish for "Baths (of sacred water)," comes from the famous hydrothermal springs in the area. It's equally popular with foreigners as with Ecuadorians, and is known as the adventure capital of Ecuador. The streets are lined with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops, and tour agents. Although it seems a bit touristy and artificial, lots of people love it, and it's definitely worth a visit. It's an important hub for outdoor sports and jungle tours.
The small bus terminal is on the north edge of town and is within walking distance to the center and almost all hotels. However, if you need to catch a taxi, it should cost you less than $1.
There are frequent connections to Baños from Quito (3.5 hours, $3.50), Riobamba (2 hours, $2) and Guayaquil (5.5 hours, $7.00). Be aware there are reports of scams on the Amazonas bus company, whereby passengers are ditched in the southern districts of Quito. When ditched passengers then buy another ticket with another company, they are told they have to return to Quito and argue for a refund. Most buses out of Quito will leave from Terrestre Quitumbe, also referred to as Tumbe (located in the far south of the city). The closest bigger town is Ambato (1 hour, $1) on the Panamerican and there are very frequent buses between the two towns.
Easy, just walk. Nowhere is more than a 15 minute walk from where you start and usually even less. It is relatively flat in the city centre.
Also check out the mountain biking section should you wish to explore further afield.
There are also plenty of taxis around should you need one.
The neo-gothic interior of the church
- Church of the Virgin of the Holy Water (Nuestra Señora del Agua Santa). This neo-Gothic style church is named after the vision of the Virgin Mary seen near the appropriately named waterfalls and is therefore a place of pilgrimage for those who come to thank the Virgin for many miracles and to ask for her blessing. It was built with many volcanic rocks and the inside is lined with paintings depicting the Virgin's miracles, including saving the church from multiple volcanic eruptions.
- Cascada de La Virgen. This is the main waterfall near the city center which empties near the thermal baths.
- Manto de la novia, (Ruta de las Cascadas). This dynamic waterfall sometimes features two distinct chutes and has a cable car ride available.
- Pailon de diablo, (Ruta de las Cascadas). This is the most impressive of the falls in the area with an option to hike to the source for a closer look.
There are dozens of travel agencies offering rafting, climbing to Cotopaxi, mountain bike rental, multiple day trekking, jungle tours, etc.
There are many studios in the centro or hostals, within 50m of each other on the same street. They all cost around $20/hour but are mostly local women without full training. The nicer spa locations around town cost $35/hour.
If you want to get away from the hustle & bustle of the centro, try these options:
- Xu Jing Casa de Salud: excellent massages from a wise old chinese woman. Corner of Luis A. Martínez and Eloy Alfaro, across from Casa Hood. ($35/hr)
- Jade Spa, just a few blocks away on Avenida Oriente y Pablo Arturo Suarez. The services are excellent, the casa is sparkling clean, and the atmosphere is tranquilo and relaxing. Jade Spa accepts both reservations and walk-ins. ($25/hr) EDIT jan2013 - a little bit hard to find, few blocks from main plaza and close to La Biblioteca. Highly recommended.
Around Baños there are several easy trails. The tourist office (calle T. Halflants at the park) can provide simple maps.
On some trails you can find many signs on the way, though the indicated distances seem to be quite contradictory. Head up to the statue of the Virgin Mary which overlooks the town for nice views.. but be warned, it's a heart-pumping hike!
Cable car over Manto de la novia falls
Several agencies rent out mountain bikes (5$ a day or $1.25 a hour). But make sure that you or someone with experience checks out the bikes and ensures that they are safe to use. Especially check if the gear is clean and oiled enough - bikes look really good, but are sometimes not maintained like they should be. Also be sure to understand who has to pay for damage to the bike should it occur.
A popular ride is the 61km, mostly downhill, to Puyo. The first 18 km to Rio Verde is strewn with impressive waterfalls,
some reached by mini cable cars across the valley. Rio Verde's Pailón del Diablo is the most dramatic. The frequent tunnels on this road
mostly have bike bypassses and the only one you need to go through is the first one. There are good signs indicating where to go all the way to Puyo. From Rio Verde or Puyo there are frequent buses back to Baños, some of which will put you bike on the roof. It is also fairly easy to hitchhike your way back on a pick-up truck.
You can also sometimes include a small bungee-style jump off a bridge some 30 minutes from Baños.
Many companies organize rafting trips to the nearby Pastaza river. The rapids range from class II to IV, depending on the recent rainfall. A half-day trip costs about $25-35 and you are best off going with a respected, well-known organizer. The water is not too cold but beware of sunburn where the wet suit doesn't cover.
ATVs and Dirt Bikes
ATVs (All Terrain Vehicles) and motocross bikes abound in the town and you can easily rent one for a couple of hours or days. The hills surrounding the town provide good views of the town and the volcano and climbing to the antenna or to the cross are both good options. You can also drive down to Puyo if you don't feel like biking.
Many kinds of tours are organized to the Amazonas jungle from day trips to the edge to two week adventures deep in the jungle. You will get to meet natives in their villages, swim under a waterfall and see at least some small wild animals like frogs, fish and spiders. You can usually also bundle the tour with rafting if you want. Shop around a bit for the package and price that best suits your wishes. 55 dollars for the trip.
Several tour operators offer bridge jumping (puenting). There are two bridges this is done from, one is much higher than the other. Although the operators are not covered by any kind of liability insurance, the rigging equipment is of high quality and done professionally.
- An incident has occured on the higher bridge with an operator in early February 2012. Although two ropes are used, one of them snapped and the operator jut laughed it off and offered no refund to the poor girl. They are extremely unprofessional and just see gringos as people to milk money from. Its recommended you do bungee jumping somewhere else where they take your safety more seriously.
Dozens of tour operators offer rapelling down waterfalls (canyoning).
For a reliable, affordable, and fun outdoor activities check out MTS Adventure between Av. 16 de Diciembre and Luis A. Martinez near the church. Canyoning, rafting, canoping, bungee jumping, mountain climbing, hiking, etc. Guides are knowledgeable and fun.
There are a lot of different places to buy handicrafts, there are a lot of small business in front of the church in the middle of the town.
At the market you can find decent meals from $1.5 to $3.
- Napolitano Pizzeria Restaurante, 12 de Noviembre & Martinez. A laid back Italian themed restaurant with outstanding lasagna. Also has a pool table in the back room.
- Casa Hood, Martinez & Eloy Alfaro, ☎ 03-274 2668. Perhaps the most recommended restaurant in Banos, Casa Hood serves up an eclectic array of dishes that are all outstanding, including many vegetarian options. The atmosphere here is very relaxed and the many bookshelves full of books and games make it feel like a living room. Any of the books can be traded for your own and the games are open for anyone to play. $5-$8.
- Pancho's Snack Bar, Rocafuerte & Maldonado, ☎ 03-274 2395. The confusing mix of cultures inside these doors make the place a hit. Enjoy your superhamburguesa between the shrine to Che Guevara and the pictures of John Wayne.
- Arte Cafe y Te, 12 de Noviembre 500 y Oriente, ☎ 03-274 3448. This beautiful new cafe serves gourmet coffee, tea and delicious sweet and savory crepes. The cozy hammock chairs on the patio and the beautiful presentation of each drink and plate of food only add to the instant appeal of the French-Colombian owned cafe. $1.50-$5.
Sugar Cane Taffy (Melcocha)
Melcocha is Ecuador's hallmark candy and the majority of it is made in Baños. The abundance of sugar cane in the area makes this version of taffy a local specialty. It is a naturally sweet taffy made from boiled raw cane syrup. In store fronts that sell it you are likely to see it being made by pulling it and beating it against sturdy door frames.
Sugar Cane Juice (Jugo de Caña)
Sugar cane is also popular in a less worked form as chewable cane pulp sticks or squeezed juice.
Flaming Bob Marley - Leprechaun Bar
- Leprechaun Bar, Eloy Alfaro (between Oriente and Espejo), ☎ 03-274 1537. This is the happening place for travelers and hip people in Baños to hang out. By the front bar there is a large dance floor with the DJ playing a variety of music. Upstairs is a smaller dance floor. But the real gem of the place is the back yard, which has another bar, a stage for occasional live music, and a large fire pit that the staff keeps roaring all night long on weekends. Be sure to try the signature "Flaming Bob Marley" shot.
- Bar Cafe Jack Rock, Eloy Alfaro 541 & Ambato, ☎ 03-274 1329. Rock and roll themed bar with an always busy foosball table.
- Discoteca The Trebol, Av. Montalvo & 16 de Diciembre, ☎ 03-274 1501.
- Stray Dog Brewpub/Cerviceria, (Maldonado & Rocafuerte kitty corner from the city hall plaza), . Weekdays: 3pm-11pm (Closed Tuesdays). Sundays: 11am-7pm.. Perhaps the only microbrewery in town with tasty brews, sandwiches, and great fresh cut fries but terribly slow service. Expect quick pours but around an hour for most food. Beer is made with local virgin blessed water. $2 for beers, $6-10 for sandwiches/meals.
- Hostal Restaurant Erupcion Ambato & Thomas Halflants Crnr. phone="0998047456"  Is a quality lodging, clean and comfortable place in the magical downtown of Baños Ecuador, your accommodation includes breakfast, internet wifi, kitchen facilities, laundry service, cable tv, free map & tourist information.
- Hostel Backpackers Ricardo Z. Carrillo y Ambato Lovely, beautiful hostel with a great common area with bar, pool billiard, free films and good book exchange. Breakfast (and in low season also dinner on Mon., Tue. Wed.) included in the price (dorms from $10, private from $15 pp.). Run by two Argentinian backpackers. A little bit off the chrowd but therefore really nice and quiet - expect a gorgeous sleep! Also close to the the Virgin thermal bath. +59332741825 [email protected]
- Hostel Transilvania  16 de Diciembre y Oriente Big bright rooms and a great, relaxed atmosphere. Run by two backpackers who know exactly what budget travelers need and want. Tons of free amenities, gorgeous views and a their own fantastic restaurant next door. +59332742281
- Backpackers Paradise - Princesa Maria, Rocafuerte y Mera, Baños, Tel: 03 2741 035 [email protected] A bit of a walk from the main strip slightly up, but a friendly budget option with free internet and wifi, clean well stocked kitchen, DVD player and good hot showers. Staff are super friendly and helpful. Often shows as fully booked online when they have rooms.
- Hostería Spa Miramelindo, KM 15 Vía Baños Puyo, Banos, ☎ 032493004, . Located at just minutes away from Baños Ecuador, Miramelindo Spa Inn is one of the premiere hotels in town; we offer an outdoor pool, buffet breakfast, an indoor Hot Tube, Direct TV in every room, the best Ecuadorian cuisine in our restaurant. Rio Verde River and Pailon Del Diablo Waterfall is only minutes’ walk away from our hotel.
- Plantas y Blanco, Martinez y 12 de Noviembre, Baños, Tel: 03 740 044.  Opened 13 years ago by French owner Michel Leseigneur, this is one of the old favourites in Baños with it's great location in the centre of town. There has been report of a worker propositioning lone females in their rooms at night when the hostel is mostly empty, although he did leave when rejected/asked to. Doubles $8-12.
- El Marques Posada, Pasaje V. Ibarra y Av. Montalvo, Baños, ☎ 03 740053, . Located at the foot of the magnificent Cascada de la Virgin, El Marques Posada is a sociable and welcoming hostel decorated with warm colours and boasting incredible views of Baños from the roof terrace.
- La Chimenea, Luis A Martinez & Rafael Vieira (Coming from the bus station, continue 4 blocks along Calle Maldonado and turn left onto Calle Martinez. From there, you'll find La Chimenea around six blocks along and on your right.), ☎ 03 274 2725, . checkout: 12:00. Really nice place, very good value. Lovely roof-top terrace / cafe / kitchen with great view of the Virgin waterfall. Friendly, relaxed, and helpful staff. Every room is clean and modern, with hot water and balcony. Some rooms contain televisions. Internet computers in lobby (free). Swimming pool and jacuzzi (temporarily out of service as of April 2011). Steam baths available for rent. Information about the area. $7.50 -8.50 per person.
- La Floresta Hospedaje, Montalvo y Thomas Halflants, Banos, ☎ 032741824, . Mid range hotel with large airy rooms, spotlessly clean, helpful English speaking staff, a pleasant garden and excellent breakfast $50 US.
- Mayra's House, Oriente Y Eduardo Tapia 112, ☎ 593 3 2742 850, . Self Contained Apartments in the building of Mayra's Spanish School, (email: welcome at mayraspanishschool.com) Choice of Studio or One bedroom, all with private bathroom, cable T.V., fridge and fully equipped kitchen. All have access to rooftop terrace with stunning views of Baños.
- La Casa Verde Eco Guesthousel, el camino real, santa ana, ☎ 593 86 594 189, . checkin: 2pm. . la casa verde is your eco-friendly haven on the outskirts of beautiful and tranquil baños. set in a peaceful and scenic valley on the rio pastaza, la casa verde is surrounded by a magnitude of flora and fauna, including hummingbirds and fire flies, complete with spectacular views of the llanganates and sangay national parks. we offer the perfect place to rest, relax and enjoy baños, in a volcano safe area, in a sustainable and comfortable environment. please visit www.lacasaverde.com.ec for more info. $22.00.
- Hosteria Miramelindo, Via Baños-Puyo Km. 15 Parroquia Rio Verde, ☎ 593 3 249 3004, . . $30.00.
- Luna Runtun, Caserio Runtun Km. 6, ☎ 593 3 274 0882, . This adventure spa is located on a ridge high above the city and features swimming pools filled with volcanically heated water.
- Samari, Av. de las Amazonas Vía a Puyo Km. 1, ☎ +593 - 3 - 2741 855, . This all inclusive spa resort is the premier accommodation in the city.
- Mayra's Spanish School, Montalvo and 16 de Diciembre, ☎ 593 3 2742 850, . Mayra's Spanish School was established in 1998 and is officially recognized by the Ministry of Education and Culture of Ecuador. The school is centrally located in Baños with modern facilities, including comfortable classrooms, a library, bathrooms and kitchen. Lessons are available mornings, afternoons, evenings or weekends. $6.50/hr.