Amed Beach with the sun disapearing behind Mount Agung
- For the city in Turkish Southeast Anatolia with the Kurdish name Amed, see Diyarbakir.
Amed is a long coastal strip of fishing villages in East Bali.
Amed refers to a long stretch of coast running from the village of Cucik about 14 km eastwards incorporating the seven villages of Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Selang, Banyuning and Aas. The pace of life here is slow and the coastal scenery quite stunning making Amed the perfect place for a relaxed holiday in Bali.
Amed is the most recent tourist development area in Bali. It was only in 2000 that tarmac was laid on the roads. Telephone lines were installed in 2003 and it took until 2007 for a bridge to be built over a section of the main road that regularly washed away during the rainy season.
This is the most commonly used base for visitors wishing to dive the USS Liberty wreck at Tulamben and that area is also covered by this article. There are other good dive sites close at hand and a thriving dive industry has developed all the way along the coast here.
Amed's inhabitants live from fishing, salt-making and tourism. The lack of tourism-based revenue, its remote nature and the generally harsh environment for farming, meant that this area was very much one of the poorer areas in Bali. Amongst others, the East Bali Poverty Project  drew attention to the plight of the local villagers in this area and that, together with recent tourist development, has gone a long way to improving general standards of living, health and education.
Amed lies on the north-eastern tip of Bali, a little more than a two hours drive from the Ngurah Rai International Airport. A taxi service to Amed is available at the airport for about Rp 400,000.
Amed is accessed by turning east at the village of Culik which lies on the main east coast road from Karangasem to Singaraja.
Shuttle buses regularly serve the destination from Candidasa and Lovina and now that the road has been greatly improved, they take you all the way into Amed (previously all buses stopped at Culik and motorbikes ferried visitors into Amed).
Perama  operates optional shuttle buses from Padang Bai or Candidasa to Tirtagangga, Amed and Tulamben (Rp 125,000, min. 2 people). Depart : 9.30AM & 2PM - Return : 11AM. There is no Perama office in Amed.
The easiest way into Amed though is to hire your own transport with a driver. Be aware that the Amed district is stretched out over more than 10 km. Transport by local drivers is widely available in Amed. Transport to Padang Bai should not cost more than Rp 150,000.
If you are coming from the islands to the east, Amed Sea Express  offers pick-up in Lombok, Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air with twice daily service to Amed arriving at 9:15AM & 1:15PM.
Public transport in Amed is rare. There are bemos (mini buses) from Culik as far as Aas (that pass through Amed) but mainly in the morning. Later in the day it is almost impossible to find public transport. The easiest way to get around is to hire a car and driver. Motorcycles are widely available for rent and you should expect to pay Rp 50,000-80,000/day.
The black sand and fishing boats of Amed
Amed is famous for its beaches, lined with traditional outrigger fishing boats. There is quite coarse black volcanic sand at Amed village beach. As you move further east (and away from Mount Agung), the beaches have softer sand and become more of a mid grey-brown in colour. The prettiest bays are probably those at Jemeluk and Lipah but the whole stretch of coastline is very attractive.
Salt production is a declining but still important industry in this area. As you drive along the main coast road through the villages you will see large open drying pans crusted with salt crystals. Those little boxes of gourmet Bali salt crystals you see in delicatessens and speciality food stores all over the world may have started their long journey from these very pans.
There is vibrant marine life close offshore in clear seas.
- Mini Zoo, Selang (at the Selang Resort), ☎ +62 85 237506739 ([email protected]), . 7AM-9PM. Many kinds of birds (cockatoo, lory, hornbill), reptiles (python, tortoise, skink) and mammals (slow lori, palm civet, porcupine). Rp 20,000.
- Shell Museum, Bunutan (at the Aiona Garden of Health). An odd little place and a very charming one to boot. Exactly as it says, shells. Rp 20,000.
Jemeluk Bay with Mount Agung in the distance
Most people come to Amed as a getaway, including expats from other parts of the island. It is a favourite honeymoon destination for tourists and is very popular with divers and snorkelers. Day trips to local places of interest such as the water palace at Tirta Gangga and Bali's most sacred temple, Besakih, can easily be arranged.
Mount Agung with lots of trekking options just 30-40 minutes from Amed.
Traditional outrigger boats are available for fishing charters from the main beaches in the Amed area. This normally involves early morning trolling for mackeral.
Have a traditional massage on the beach. Women from the local villages are always on hand for an invigorating massage, speciality so at Lipah Beach.
Enjoy nature and go with the wind on a traditional sailing boat for diving, fishing, exploration, dolphin watching, snorkelling or just swimming and relaxing.
Viktoria,  offers yoga lessons in Amed. She studied and started to practise in Nashik, India and has been teaching classic Hatha Yoga since 2006. Each lesson is 90 min.
Amed has some good snorkelling within metres of the shore. A reef follows the majority of the coastline and is quite close in. Due to the limited number of visitors to the area, the sea life is healthy and abundant. There is a small wreck in quite shallow water off Lipah Beach. This is not the World War II "Japanese Wreck". David Pickels' book on diving in Bali described this dive site for the first time back in 1999 as the Lipah Bay Wreck, and he admitted his mistake in the meantime. Matter of the fact is that this little wreck is not located in Lipah Bay at all, but some villages further east along the coast, namely in the village of Banyuning. The dive site is locally known among the dive operators as the "Japanese Wreck". Lipah Bay is a nice snorkel spot and has a small wooden wreck in only 1.5 m of water.
Best places for snorkelling are:
- Japanese Shipwreck in Banyuning, small ship at 20m from the beach, awesome corals with tons of fish
- Jemeluk, an absolute highlight with beautiful coral formations and loads of fish.
- in front of Pondok Vienna Beach in Lipah. Waters can be very rough here.
- small wooden shipwreck at Lipah beach
- Bunutan (beautiful coral, not so many fish)
- Selang beach, in front of Good Karma Bungalows (visibility isn't always good because of strong currents)
- Liberty shipwreck at Tulamben, some of which is in water shallow enough to allow snorkelling.
There is some fine diving in Jemeluk Bay both from the beach and from boats in deeper water. After a gentle slope out from shore, the wall here drops off dramatically to depths of 40 m plus. The coral is healthy and fish life abundant. There are some good drift dives further east at Selang and Bunutan but these are generally only suited to more experienced divers.
Beware of diving after a heavy rain, the water from the run-off can greatly reduce visibility in the water.
- Adventure Divers Bali, Jl Jemeluk, Amed, ☎ +62 813 5313 6113 ([email protected]), . PADI and SSI dive shop ofering a full range of courses. Instructed by an Englishman who moved to Amed with his Dutch wife. Together they run the diving school and Geria Giri Shanti Bungalows. Great couple that makes you feel at home.
- Amed Dive Centre, Jl Pantai Timur 801 (Hotel Uyah), ☎ +62 363 23462 ([email protected]), . Full range of PADI courses, fun dives, diving and sailing trips. English, French and German speaking.
- Amed Scuba, Bunutan, ☎ +62 81 999 123 847 ([email protected]), . Offers diving tours around Bali, local Amed-based dive-safaris and yoga classes. Instruct all PADI courses from Open Water to Divemaster. German, English and French speaking. Instructed by a German biologist. Please not that in October 2011 the number listed on the website was not working, so best to try calling the number in this listing.
- Baliku Dive Center, Banyuning, Amed (Baliku Dive Resort), ☎ +62 828 3686 138, +62 812 3954 0812 ([email protected]), . PADI and SSI dive shop offering a full range of courses. Managed by a Belgian, courses and dives are available in French, English, German and Indonesian.
- Dive Concepts, Bali, Jl Raya, Amed & @ Pura Aries Hotel, Tulamben (In Amed, directly after crossing the bridge entering the first villiage), ☎ +62 81 21 684 5440 ([email protected]), . 9AM- 6PM. PADI dive centre offering local fun dives around Amed and on the USAT Liberty wreck. Day trips to Nusa Penida and Menjangan Island, multi-day dive safaris and courses from Discover Scuba Diving to Assistant Instructor. Foreign instructors and divemasters emphasis speaking French and English but also offer courses in Italian, Spanish and German. The shop has multiple locations; in addition to the Amed and Tulamben shops, there are offices in Kuta, and Gili Trawangan. Rp 500,000 for 2 dives.
- Eco Dive, Jemeluk, ☎ +62 363 23482 ([email protected]), . Long-established PADI teaching centre. Also offer daily fun dives in the area and at the USAT Liberty wreck.
- Euro Dive, Lipah, ☎ +62 363 23605 ([email protected]), . PADI dive centre established in 1999. English, French, German and Indonesian speaking. Associated with Hidden Paradise and Coral View cottages.
- Jukung Dive Bali (Formerly known as Euro Dive), Jl Jemeluk, ☎ +62 363 23469 ([email protected]), . PADI 5 star Gold Palm Resort run by a Dutch family. They speak English, French and Dutch. The 2 swimming pools are used for instruction sessions but are also a place to relax. 3 bungalows with sea view available, A/C, hot water and a restaurant with very good food. Bali Dive Safaris , is part of Jukung Dive and offers dive safaris to dive spots in Bali.
Tulamben is a small fishing village, 30 km north of Amed, about 20-30 min by road. As well as local dives off the various Amed beaches a notable attraction is diving the wreck of the USAT Liberty at Tulamben. Some divers base themselves at Tulamben itself where all of the hotels have either in-house dive operations or are associated with one of them.
The Liberty is a US Army transport ship torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942. The wreck lies about 30 m offshore and is covered in soft corals. A huge range of reef fish have made this their home with occasional visits by pelagics. Some of the wreck can be seen by snorkellers. There are other dives in the Tulamben area and keen divers will have no problem entertaining themselves for a few days in this area. A night dive on the wreck is strongly recommended, with bumphead parrotfish looking for a place to sleep and chances of seeing the Spanish dancer. One word of warning - The Liberty is a very popular dive and unless you are actually staying at Amed or Tulamben and get there early in the day, it can be very crowded indeed.
- Aqua Dive Paradise, Jl. Raya Amplapura, Tulamben (At the north end of the strip, down towards the shore, follow the signs towards Liberty Dive Resort and Ocean View), ☎ +62 812 3793 3104, +62 817 0661 347, +62 817 475 6420. A small, locally-owned place with friendly, professional local staff and negotiable prices. They also have three new, clean, affordable, fan-cooled rooms available (a decent breakfast included). Rp 250,000 per dive or Rp 350,000 per night dive (Aug 2011).
- Deep Blue, Tulamben (opposite the police station), ☎ +62 363 22919 ([email protected]), . 7AM-9PM. Czech owned and managed PADI Dive Resort just 300 m from the Liberty shipwreck. Has 8 rooms and a restaurant with large open-air grill. Daily fun dives, dive courses up to Instructor (PADI, IANTD, CMAS, UDI, DAN), dive trips to Nusa Penida, Menjangan Island. Also operate a second dive centre at the Selang Resort. € 45 for 2 dives.
- Dive Concepts, Bali, Jl Raya, Amed & @ Pura Aries Hotel, Tulamben (In Amed, directly after crossing the bridge entering the first villiage), ☎ +62 812 1684 5440 ([email protected]), . 9AM- 6PM. PADI dive centre offering local fun dives around Amed and on the USAT Liberty wreck. Day trips to Nusa Penida and Menjangan Island, multi-day dive safaris and courses from Discover Scuba Diving to Assistant Instructor. Foreign instructors and divemasters emphasis speaking French and English but also offer courses in Italian, Spanish and German. The shop has multiple locations; in addition to the Amed and Tulamben shops, there are offices in Kuta, and Gili Trawangan. Rp 500,000 for 2 dives.
There are a few shops in Amed selling basic necessities as well as sarongs and T-shirts. It does not have the range of handicrafts and clothing that you find in other more developed tourist areas of Bali.
There are no ATMs in Amed. The nearest is in Amlapura (a 30 minute drive) so bring some cash with you. In Amlapura there are two banks: BRI (no ATM) and Bank Danamon (ATM, but only withdrawal of small amounts of money). Larger amounts can be withdrawn at the stand-alone ATM on Jl. Diponegoro at the Hardy's shopping centre.
- Amed Cafe, Jl Jemeluk, ☎ +62 363 23473 ([email protected]), . A cafe attached to the 23 bungalows of the same name. Serves fresh seafood, Balinese food and international style food. Public internet access is available. From €20.
- Barong Cafe and Restaurant, ☎ +62 818 05585010 ([email protected]). Balinese, Indonesian and international cuisine. Provides free pick up and drop-off around Amed area.
- Garam Cafe (Salt Café), Jl Pantai Timur 801, ☎ +62 363 23462 ([email protected]), . 7AM-10PM. Part of Hotel Uyah Amed&Spa. Built behind the salt production fields and uses salt production as a theme aiming to preserve traditional salt production and explaining the production process to visitors. Souvenir shop, billiard tables, table tennis and salt panning. Western, Indonesian, Balinese and regional Asian style menu. Free Wifi Rp 30,000-120,000. (8°20'6.07S,115°38'37.00E)
- Sails, Lipah, ☎ +62 363 22006. A very good, more upscale restaurant in great headland setting. Modern and clean with an extensive well thought out menu. The restaurant specialises in Western food but includes Indonesian favourites. Offers a free pick up and drop off service anywhere in the Amed area.
- Warung Bobo II, Jl Jemeluk, Amed (200 m from Kembali Beach Bungalows). Fresh fish and local cuisine. Located at the edge of the waves, popular at sunset. Warung Bobo I is in central Amed.
- Warung Kadek, Lipah-Bunutan (opposite of the Coral View Hotel), ☎ +62 852 37997885 ([email protected]), . Balinese, Chinese, Indonesian and European food in a nice location.
- Warung Kemulan, Selang. On a hill with views and a traditional style menu.
- Wawa Wewe, Lipah (near Hidden Paradise), ☎ +62 363 23522 ([email protected]), . Restaurant with bar serving cocktails, attached to Wawa Wewe I bungalows. On Tues and Sat a band is provided. On Wed and Fri traditional Legong Dance is performed.
For an evening drink and entertainment, a local band performs live at the Double One Restaurant once a week and there are sometimes free Balinese dance performances in some of the restaurants. Generally Amed is quiet at night and it is certainly not a late night drinking spot.
The best places for a evening are Wawa Wewe, Wawa Wewe Beach Restaurant or Pacha Bar.
|This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
|| Under Rp 250,000
|| Rp 250,000 to 1,000,000
|| Over Rp 1,000,000
There is a wide selection of hotels in the area and more are appearing all the time. Most tend to be quite small and intimate and built by westerners in partnership with local Balinese. These have brought a welcome increase in employment and prosperity to the area.
Everyone knows everyone here so there is a real feeling of village community. The hotels are well spaced out though so you feel that you have your own private space. There are few TVs in the hotel rooms, so bring a good book to read or better still, spend your time getting to know the locals. The pace of life is very slow and relaxed in Amed, the people are friendly and they have time.
There are also several hotels at the village of Tulamben to the north of Amed which specialise in providing for visitors intending to dive the wreck of the USS Liberty. These establishments are normally affiliated with a dive operator or run their own dive operation.
- Aries Bungalows Tulamben, Tulamben (~500m after entering the village, the resort is on the left), ☎ +62 81 33 076 0077 ([email protected]), . Provides accommodation for divers and non-divers with deluxe, standard and budget rooms. It has 10 double occupancy rooms available with both twin and double bed configurations, as well as a 6-bed hostel. All rooms have fans, western toilets and showers. The set-menu restaurant offers complimentary breakfast and also serves lunch and dinner. It has an associated travel agent & dive shop providing diving, adventure and cultural trips around the island. € 5/10/15.
- Beten Waru Cottages & Restaurant, Banutan, Karangasen, Amed beach, ☎ +62 817 971 0558. Peaceful with unobstructed sea views from two recently constructed 1 room cottages decorated with teak furniture. Glass door gives a sea view from the bed, the half-covered bathroom has an outside shower. Cottages are well maintained and include hot water, fan or A/C. Flowering bushes are scattered around the property and a restaurant is available. Below the cottages is a 5 km waterfront good for snorkelling and scuba diving. US$20-25.
- C'est Bon Cafe, Jemeluk. Four rooms, two of which have great views. Helpful staff and the owners speak some English. Clean and it is possible to have something cooked anytime there is someone around from 8AM-midnight. Rp 100,000.
- Eka Purnama Cottages & Restaurant, Aas (eastern edge of the Amed area), ☎ +62 828 372 2642 ([email protected]), . Family run budget hotel with 4 cottages in a quiet location overlooking the sea and a short step away from the beach. The cottages are comfortable with a double bed and single bed, ceiling fan, wardrobes and a spacious bathroom with shower and a western toilet.
- Fisherman´s House, Jemeluk, ☎ +62 818 0543 7543 ([email protected]), . Main rooms are small with fans, western toilets and showers. The low budget rooms have an outside shower. The friendly Balinese family will invite you to traditional ceremonies and aim to showcase the life of local people. The accommodation price includes eating fresh fish of the day.
- Geria Giri Shanti Bungalows, Jl Jemeluk, Amed, ☎ +62 819 16654874 ([email protected]), . Very pleasant and clean rooms, lush garden property and centrally located. All four bungalows have their own bathroom with warm shower and toilet. Discount offered if you're also taking diving lessons from Adventure Divers. €13-€18.
- Lily Amed Beach Bungalows, Amed (within the first 3 km strip at Amed), ☎ +62 819 36032565 ([email protected]). checkin: noon; checkout: 11AM. Newly opened 4 room hotel with a large garden. Large clean rooms with hot shower. Free wifi. Good views of the ocean and Mount Agung. Lots of fruit trees in the gardens and the produce is served for breakfast when available. From US$18 - 40.
- Pondok Tirta, Jln Melasti, Amed (entering amed from Culik 1km before the bridge turn left on to jln Melasti), ☎ +6281805555484. Just 2 rooms set on a lovely quiet Jalan. beautiful garden and just a few mins walk to the beach. Rooms have fan (you get a nice breeze so sometimes dont even need that, cold water bathroom (hot water can be provided by the bucket), and the big selling point for budget travellers is a kitchen consisting of 2 gas hobs, fridge and water cooler. Price also includes breakfast and Kadek and her husband Nyoman take really good care of you. approx 150,000 - 200,000.
- Anda Amed, Bunutan, ☎ +62 363 23498, . Nicely designed and furnished bungalows built into a hilside overlooking the beach and ocean in the Lipah village part of Amed. Restaurant, gift shop and small in-house library. From €55.
- Apa Kabar Villas, Amed, ☎ +62 363 23492 ([email protected]), . A small and quiet collection of ocean front bungalows (sleep four) and Balinese villas (sleep six) surrounded by lush gardens. Restaurant, swimming pool and some nice coral for snorkelling right off of their beach.
- Baliku Dive Resort, Banyuning, ☎ +62 82 83722601 ([email protected]), . Five free standing villas with a dive centre overlooking the Banyuning bay, swimming pool, international cuisine and good service. From US$90, breakfast included.
- Bayu Cottages, Lipah, ☎ +62 363 23495 ([email protected]), . Six ocean- view rooms on a hillside overlooking the sea. Managed by a mixed Indonesian-Dutch couple. From €27, breakfast included.
- Blue Moon Villas, Selang, ☎ +62 363 21428 ([email protected]), . checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. Great location on a headland just east of Selang beach. Double rooms with private balconies and a private 4 bedroom family villa. Two swimming pools, a spa and incorporates Komang John's Café-restaurant. From €48, breakfast included.
- Coral View, Lipah, ☎ +62 363 23493, . One of the older Amed hotels and the cottages are a bit tired. Service is good though and is located on the Lipah beachfront. All of the cottages have private terraces, hot water and A/C. Small communal pool. Deluxe bungalow US$70, family bungalow US$140, American style breakfast included.
- Hotel Uyah Amed Spa & Resort (Salt Lodge), Jl Pantai Timur 801, Amed (the first hotel on the approach from Culik), ☎ +62 363 23462 ([email protected]), . checkin: 12:00 (12 noon); checkout: 13:00 (1PM). 16 spacious bungalows and one family villa (4 persons) with private bathroom and solar heated water. Takes environmental considerations seriously. Simple in-house spa, restaurant and bar. Bicycles for hire. Pool side bungalow with fan €39, ocean view bungalows with A/C & hot water €48/night/bungalow, ocean view family bungalow for 4 persons with 1 king size double bed & 2 single bed € 89. All prices include breakfast & taxes. (8°20'4.52S,115°38'37.66E)
- Kembali Beach Bungalows, Jl Jemeluk, Amed, ☎ +62 81 74768313 ([email protected]), . checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. Eight spacious bungalows with a double bed, mosquito net, ceiling fans, A/C, private bathroom with toilet & hot shower, safe deposit box and large wooden veranda. The 10x6 m pool is on the edge of the resort and overlooks the sea. The restaurant next to the pool serves breakfast, drinks and simple food (no dinner). From €28-34, breakfast included.
- Life in Amed Beach Cottages, Selang/Lean, ☎ +62 363 23152, . Six cottages around a large pool, in a quiet spot. Natural stone bathrooms and is well equipped and decorated. From US$45-80.
- Puri Madha Bungalows & Resort, Tulamben, ☎ +62 363 22921. Rooms are located in front of the Liberty Wreck. Clean comfortable beds, fan or A/C options available, cold showers. Offers a full range of PADI dive courses, air tanks may be available for rent if you have your own equipment. From Rp 250,000, simple breakfast included.
- Puri Wirata Dive Resort & Spa, Jl Raya, Bunutan, ☎ +62 363 23523 ([email protected]), . All rooms and villas are spread out on a slope between the mountains and the sea. Tropical garden with two swimming pools. Offers a full range of PADI dive courses. From US$50, continental breakfast included.
- Santai Hotel, Bunutan, ☎ +62 363 23487 ([email protected]), . Six bungalows and four room units, all with Sulawesi-style architecture. Three of the bungalows have ocean views, the others are inward facing around a large swimming pool. The rooms are nice enough with decent furnishings, open air bathrooms, hot water and A/C. From US$50, includes breakfast.
- Selang Resort (Deep Blue Selang), Selang, ☎ +62 852 37506739 ([email protected]), . checkin: 2PM; checkout: noon. Boutique hotel with sea-views from each of 14 rooms. Has a restaurant and a swimming pool with bar. Singles, doubles and a 2 room family bungalow. Deep Blue Dive is attached. From €35, breakfast included. (S 8° 21.495',)
- Tauch Terminal Tulamben, Tulamben, . Dive Resort close to the wreck of the USS Liberty. Run by a German dive operator and offers many different diving packages.
- Tulamben Wreck Divers Resort, Tulamben, ☎ 62 363 23400 ([email protected]), . Dive resort only 200 m from the USS Liberty wreck site. US$20-120.
- Emerald Tulamben, Tulamben, ☎ +62-363-22925, . Dive resort located close to the USS Liberty wreck. Diving packages and accommodation from double rooms to a private 2 bedroom villa. From US$126.
- Villa Flamboyant, Banyuning, ☎ +62 828 3722636 or (Austria)+43 676 4003869 ([email protected]), . Five bedroom private villa set back on the hillside with sea views. On the upper floor, there are 4 double bedrooms with their own bathrooms. From the terrace, you have a view of the mountains, the garden and the sea. Fully staffed and serviced. From €70, includes breakfast.
Phone lines are limited in the area and most hotels only have one landline each. It is wise to bring a mobile phone when visiting if you need to stay in touch with the outside world. Local Indonesian (GSM) SIM cards can be purchased in thousands of places around Bali. There is a public telephone office at Lipah Beach close to Coral View bungalows.
Internet coverage was non-existent until quite recently but is getting much better with several hotels investing in their own ADSL backbones. Public internet facilties are available at Amed Cafe in Amed village, in Lipah next to Hidden Paradise and Anda Amed in Bunutan. Coverage is expanding fast though and any visitor should look out for public internet cafe signs.
- Lovina beach in north Bali is a good next stop for more quiet coastal life.
- Padang Bai is a nice stop in itself and starting point for boat services to Lombok.
- A journey back to South Bali will take about 2 hours and 30 minutes.
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