Yushu (玉树; Yùshù; also known as Gyêgu, "Gyêgudo", "Jyekundo" or "Jiegu") is a town in Qinghai Province.
Yushu is in the traditional Kham Area. It is a multi-ethnic town. The inhabitants are mostly Tibetan Chinese while most merchants are Han Chinese. The area has a population of over 250,000. Although it is outside the Tibet Autonomous Region, it is traditionally Tibetan, albeit increasingly populated by incomers from other parts of China.
In the morning of 14 April 2010, the town was struck by 7.1 magnitude Earthquake. More than 2,000 people died.
As of 2017, the city has been rebuilt and city life has returned to normal. There are still some minor construction works but these should not be of any problem to your visit.
A few buses depart daily between Xining and Yushu. Fare is ¥207 (229 in 2019). As of June 2017, the bus station for buses to and from Xining and other towns/cities is in the centre of the town. A taxi from anywhere to the bus station should be no more than ¥10.
If you arrive in a minivan from Sichuan it is possible you will dropped somewhere random outside of the centre. A taxi into town will cost anywhere between 5 to 20 Yuan depending on your destination, your negotiating skills and the number of people already inside.
The Yushu Batang Airport (YUS) opened in 2009 and is a small, clean airport. It is 18 KMs to the South of Yushu Town. There are multiple daily flights to and from Xining which cost between $90 and $250. There is an airport bus in town as well as taxis. Fare for a taxi will be between 50 and 100 yuan depending on your negotiating skills.
All buses from Xining going further South in Qinghai, to Zadoi or Nangqen for instance, pass by Yushu Town on their way.
Walking is the easiest way around town although there are also countless taxis and multiple bus routes. A taxi to anywhere you can walk up the hill to the Jiegu monastery. The Mani Stone Temple is a 30-40min walk to the east on the main road. Or it's convenient to take bus no.1 or 2(Y1). A taxi to the Temple of Princess Wencheng cost around Y50. Try to negotiate with a driver to see both sites as they are both outside of town in different directions.
Do not bother to have a sheepskin jacket made up unless you are prepared to leave it behind;it will start to stink once you bring it back to low altitude. However, leather cowboy hats are fine, also fox fur brocade hat. Apart from malas (tibetan rosary beads), prayer flags and other religious acoutrements, there is not a lot to buy although there are some beautiful rugs to be found on the market. However, it is almost impossible to persuade the merchant to part with one, as for reasons never fathomed, they are sold in pairs. You can also buy Caterpillar fungus in Yak Square during the summer, a famous traditional medicine.
There's many ATMs in the centre of town where you can use foreign cards ie. Mastercard, Visa.
It's very nice Antique shop with really old Tibetian things on the street near Yushu museum. Also, there are outdoor equipment show near it, where you can by gas and stoves.
Opposite the Yushu Museum, among the row of shops on the right leading to the river, there are hiking shops with some clothing and other gear available. One of them has the Kailas logo.
Yushu Spinal Chord Organisation is a coop that sells handcrafts made by its members. The money is used to provide various services and supper to disabled people from the region. The owner speaks English and you get buy a good coffee here too. Its located about 100m heading east along the river boulevard. Almost opposite the two pyramid like buildings.
There is a lot of small eateries offering Chinese food in the town. Nobody speaks English, but there are posters with dishes they serve on the walls so one can easily order a meal - just point at the dish you want. You'd better not forget to say "Bu La" which means "Not spicy" in English.
The only and a very good Tibetian restaurant in the town is A GU DUN BA. It's located in a small 2 storey building near the tourist information centre in pyramids seen for afar in the centre of the town. It's host speaks some English and helped us with a great choice of local food and Tibetan tea with Yak milk. Coordinates: 33.002292, 97.013328
Another awesome place is Joe Sai Bar - a snug place to rest your feet after a walk about town and have a cup of great coffee in the afternoon or an atmospheric, fun-time party bar at night. Joe Sai Bar is close to A GU DUN BA, take a short walk form the pyramids, cross the "rainbow bridge" and go upstairs. The host - Sai is a very friendly local man, who fluently speaks English/German/Spanish. Coordinates: 33.004169, 97.014289
Just before the Yushu Spinal Injury Organisation, heading east along the river and almost opposite the pyramid like buildings, there is a really good Indian restaurant called Bollywood.The chefs are both from India and serve up a variety of authentic dishes. Nice place to hang out too.
There's also a quality oven baked pizza joint called Fawn Pizza. Try the yak pizza - delicious! It's located on the street running perpendicular to the Gesar Hotel, just over the river, south side.
You can buy many types of lager beer including Budweiser and Corona in a few locations. Also, available is Baijiu, a rice wine which has a very strong taste.
There are a few drinking establishments often referred to as "Tea Houses", but do not expect a pub atmosphere. There are also a couple of night clubs, which are worth going to just to experience young people in a disco all lining up and doing traditional dances which they all seem to know. There is also often traditional Tibetan folk singing in these clubs which is also worth seeing. The tradition is to reward the singer with a silk scarf (called a Khata) for their song. Many people will approach them during their song to place Khata on their neck.
If you want good coffee, go to the Yushu Spinal Injury Organisation. This is a really nice place to hang out. The owner speaks English and is knowledgeable about the area. The organisation (run as a coop) provides vital services and support to disabled people from the region, many of who were injured in the earthquake. They also sell beautifully made handcrafts, the money of which is used to support its members. To find it, head east along the river boulevard about 100m.
You can also find good coffee, breakfast and surroundings at Rose of Sharon Bistro. They're located along the river, just 50m west if you're coming from Yushu Museum.
There is a relatively cheap hotel down the alley/street which runs alongside the extremely large and expensive Yushu Hotel. There is often a Hui kebab stall near the entrance. Clean double rooms with private bathroom. 100 ¥ as of June 2017 although they will ask for more. Definitely the best option for foreigners in Yushu at this time.
At the T junction (of G214 and S308) go north the small street to the police station. 100m right of it (east) is a small hostel for 130¥ for a double room, shared bathroom with hot shower. (july 2015) 30m straight (north) is a guesthouse for 80 ¥ with a double bed. Shared bathroom no shower. (july 2015) 250m to the left (west) behind yushu hotel is a hostel for 150-180¥ clean, with own bathroom and hot shower. (july 2015) Bargaining seems difficult
Since the earthquake, most hotels were rebuilt as temporary corrugated-iron boxes, some of them unexpectedly dirty, and extremely cold in winter. Many of them can be found on the G214 to the East of the T junction. Expect to pay around Y50 for a bed (winter price) in a dirty one without electricity.
About 250 meters east of the T junction, there is an easy to find L-shaped and green-coloured budget hotel that survived the earthquake. The price is Y35 for a bed in a double room (winter price), it has electric blankets but no heating. Toilets are outside the building. Because of the wide windows in the common area, the hotel is surprisingly warm in winter. Ask the restaurants around to point you the tent where the reception is located.
There is a great little hotel called Ancient Tibetan hotel, 120¥, it is next to the big Surmang boutique hotel (玉树苏曼琉璃酒店) by the small river west of the T junction, near the Nepali cafe. Contact the manager Kunsang: 19997369560 / Facebook Kunsang Dorjee / ask for him at the Nepali cafe or Spinal Injury Organisation, he speaks great English, is super helpful and knows other hotels in town. He can also help you with transport rental and lots of other things.
As of end of October 2012, the Yushu Hotel is no longer in existence. It is a huge building site from what I could understand. The only place to stay was the San Jiang Yuan International Hotel (180Y for a common room, 240Y for a standard and 280Y for a single). This hotel is made of single-story and double-story prefabricated rooms with some heating. It is on the main road into town just before all the new apartment blocks. Mainly construction workers, government officials and police officials were staying here at the time of my trip. I only found this hotel with the help of a kind Tibetan couple who phoned and drove around until we found a room for me.
A little east, less than half a kilometer, from the centre of town T junction is a brand new hotel and restaurant in the upper storey of a Tibetan "arcade". There are a couple of "slick" western style shops both sides of the inconspicuous entrence. On the north side of the road just east of where all the minibuses park. Find the approximate position and ask anyone "binguan" and they will point. Staff are very helpful and a little English is spoken. Cheapest room is ¥268 (March 2013) for a double bed, bathroom, TV and heater. Water and power is sporadic but you will be given a candle. The big restaurant next door is popular with the locals and a fun place to be. Can be accessed from the hotel or from a red carpeted exterior stairs around the corner.
There are four daily buses to Xining, two seated and two sleepers. The trip can take anywhere from 12 to 20 hours (the seated bus is faster than the sleeper). Buses leaving before 3pm are likely to arrive in the middle of the night in Xining. On the route to Xining there are fantastic views of plains so vast they disappear into the horizon.
There is also a sleeper bus a few times a week to Chengdu in summer, which takes 32-36 hours. On the route to Chengdu the scenery is fantastically dramatic with vast mountains and river gorges. Be prepared for delays due to small avalanches temporarily blocking the roads on the way to Chengdu.
There is a sleeper bus from Yushu to Golmud once every three days. The ride takes 16 hours and costs 198 yuan. The bus departs in the early morning from the Xihang Bus Station (xīháng qìchēzhàn/西杭汽车站）. Contact the Chinese-speaking-bus driver by cell phone (13709799151) to find out on what day the buses depart for Golmud.
Regular collective minivans to Nanqen leave from outside the bus station. The trip takes three to four hours for the 170 kilometers and costs Y50 (2017).
Collective taxis to Ganzi and Dege wait for passengers on the G214 about 250 meters East of the T junction. Price per person to Ganzi is RMB 200 in a minivan or RMB 180 in a smaller car. As of 2016 the trip to Dege takes about 10 hours and the price is about is about RMB 200 in a minivan. You might have to wait a long time for the taxi to be full, and that may include spending one more night in Yushu. More convinent might be to go there one day in advance and talk with the driver. The drivers ususlly prefer to leave early (3-5 am)