Pilgrims bathing at Kedar Ghat at sunrise
Varanasi , once known as Benares or Banaras and Kashi, is a historical city in northern India. The city is sacred to Hindus and Jains and also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with settlements dating back to the 11th century BC. Many Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi brings salvation/nirvana and so they make the trip to the city when they realize that they are close to death. For some, the culture shock of the burning corpses in plain view can be a bit overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganga at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.
The city can be scorchingly hot in the summer months so, if possible, time your visit to fall between October and March, and bring something warm to wear for chilly days and nights.
Varanasi is well connected by plane, train, and bus.
Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (IATA: VNS) is located 25km northwest of the city center. A minibus 50₹(Aug 2018) will take you to the train station or city center. Ask securities for minibus station or simply walk out of the airport building and turn left. you will see the minibus(es). A taxi to/from the airport takes an hour and costs ₹750, while a tuk-tuk/auto-rickshaw can take twice as long and costs ₹500. Allow extra time due to traffic. Air India , JetKonnect , SpiceJet , and IndiGo  all operate regular flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Khajuraho, and Visakhapatnam. There are flights to Colombo on Mihin Lanka Airlines, and flights to Bangkok on Thai Airways.
Its easy to get a state-run bus to city center (opposite Varanasi Junction/Cantt station), which costs less than half a dollar. Bus stand is 10 minutes walking distance from airport.
If taking state run (or private operator) bus from Varanasi to airport, take bus going to Jaunpur and get down at Babatpur airport stop. After walking 10 min, you can easily get to airport.
There are multiple daily services to cities including Delhi (13 hours), Agra (13 hours), Lucknow (7 hours), Mumbai, and Kolkata.
Varanasi is served by three major railway stations:
- Varanasi Junction (IR station code : BSB) - the trip between the train station and the Ganges-area costs ₹100 in a tuk-tuk.
- Manduadih Railway Station - the trip between the train station and the Ganges-area costs ₹100 in a tuk-tuk.
- Mughal Sarai Junction (IR station code : MGS), about 20km east of the city - the trip between the train station and the Ganges-area costs ₹500 in a taxi.
Here is a list of useful trains to reach Varanasi:
||You may board at
||You may alight at
||Mughal Sarai Junction
||New Delhi, Lucknow
||Lokmanya Tilak (T) - Varanasi Express
||Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Mumbai)
||Lokmanya Tilak (T) - Bhagalpur Express
||Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (Mumbai)
||Mughal Sarai Junction
||Mughal Sarai Junction, Varanasi Junction
||Mughal Sarai Junction
||Ganga Kaveri Express
||Bangalore City, Chennai Central
||Mughal Sarai Junction
||Mughal Sarai Junction, Varanasi Junction
||Jaipur, Agra Fort
||Jaipur, Agra Fort
Also see Rail travel in India
The bus station in Varanasi is located just east of the Varanasi Junction train station. A tuk-tuk from the bus station to the Ganges area costs ₹100.
Arriving from Nepal
Buses are available from major cities in Nepal to the border city of Sunauli. From the Sunauli bus station, take a rickshaw (200 NPR) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. After 100m of walking through no-man's land, you will find the Indian immigration office hidden away on the left hand side of the road. After going through Indian immigration, walk 300m and find the bus stop on the right hand side. From there, take the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfortable and stop everywhere. The bus trip between the border and Gorakhpur takes 4 hours and costs ₹60. To reach Varanasi from Gorakhpur, you can either take a train from the Gorakhpur Junction train station (5-7 trains per day, 5.5-7 hour journey, ₹200-800 cost) or a bus (hourly, 8+ hour journey, ₹130 cost).
Alternatively, there is a single bus that can be taken from Kathmandu through to Varanasi. As of Dec 2016 the bus costs 2100 NPR although if you reserve a ticket through a travel agency in Thamel it may be slightly more. The bus leaves from the Swayambhu bus park at 7pm every two days, a schedule should be available on the UPSRTC website. There is an office at the Swayambhu bus park where you may be able to directly reserve your tickets ahead of time. The bus is reasonably comfortable although it has no toilet and stops every few hours or so. The trip itself can take anywhere from 15 to 23 hours.
Arriving from other cities in India
There are buses run by state government from Lucknow (8 hours, ₹160), Gorakhpur (8+ hours, ₹130), Khajuraho (12 hours, ₹250), Kanpur (9 hours - ₹195), Faizabad (7 hours, ₹105), Bodhgaya (7 hours, ₹250) and Allahabad (3 hours - ₹107 for AC, ₹60 w/o AC).
Note that many streets are too narrow to be reached by cycle-rickshaw, auto-rickshaw, and car and therefore, you may have to walk a bit to reach your destination.
Typical alley in Varanasi
By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any book store and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list of all the ghats and their historical background.
Walking Tours are operated by many companies, with the cheapest being the daily tours operated by Stops Hostel (₹100 plus transportation, 3 hours). Walking tours are a great way to see some of the harder-to-find sights such as the Flower Market and Ayurvedic Herb Market.
By cycle-rickshaw and auto-rickshaw
The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle by foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw or auto-rickshaw. A short journey of a few kilometers should cost under ₹50, while a longer journey within the city, such as between the ghats and the train station, will cost ₹100. Further journeys, such as to Sarnath (10km), cost ₹200 each way by auto-rickshaw.
If you take a "Shared rickshaw" you can get everywhere for ₹20, be patient and insist on wanting a shared one.
There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at the Varanasi Junction (Cantt) train station.
By Maharaja Rickshaw
The city also has Maharaja Rickshaw(or Mr Rickshaw Wala) run by a new company which offers tailored luxury experience at very low price(starting INR250 per person). This creates all together a different experience of seeing city and also the drivers are very friendly.
By car or taxi
While taxis and cars-for-hire do exist, traffic makes them impractical.
- Varanasi Taxi Cab Service (Taxi Cab Service), ☎ +91- 9839239496 ([email protected]), . Inquiry: 7AM to 11PM. Varanasi taxi cab offers a wide range of Luxury and Economy cabs and buses at best rate. edit
- Gozo Cabs for Varanasi (Taxi Cab Service), ☎ (+91) 90518-77-000 ([email protected]), . Inquiry: 24 hours at your service. Gozo cab rental service offers a wide range of Luxury and Economy cabs and buses at best rate. edit
Bicycle rental is available from many vendors. Inquire at your hotel.
Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations. The experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.
Ghats and the River Ganges
While the use of ghats for cremation is well known, they are also used to give last rites to those who do not need cleansing by fire to purify their soul, including young children and pregnant women. Instead, their bodies are wrapped in cloth, weighted with stones and eased into the Ganga. However, it is fairly common for the ropes to give way, resulting in putrefying corpses washing up on the east shore across from the city. Steer clear if squeamish.
Dasaswamedh Ghat (main ghat)
The River Ganga is a sacred river for the Hindus and you will see traditional rituals and bathing occurring at all times of the day. On the Eastern banks, the River Ganga is flanked by a 300m wide sand belt, beyond which lies a green belt, a protected area reserved for turtle breeding. The western crescent-shaped bank of the River Ganga is flanked by a continuous stretch of 84 ghats, or series of steps leading down to the river, stretching for 6.8km. These ghats were built by Hindu kings who wanted to die along the Ganges, and they built lofty palaces along the river, most of which are now hotels, to spend their final days. You can walk along the river and see all of the ghats, but the best option for viewing the ghats is to charter a boat and see them from the river.
Hindus consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi, so some ghats are known as burning ghats, where over 200+ corpses per day are cremated in full view before their ashes are eased into the Ganga.
Some of the most popular ghats, from north to south:
- Panchganga Ghat - the meeting of the five rivers
- Manikarnika Ghat - the main cremation ghat; a must-see, but remain quiet and never take photographs (note: scams are plentiful here; see the "Staying Safe" section)
- Dasaswamedh Ghat - known as the 'main' ghat, this is the site of the large evening aarti ceremony
- Rana Ghat
- Kedar Ghat - brightly painted in stripes and busy with bathers, very photogenic
- Narad Ghat - the ghat on which bathing with spouse is not advised because the legend of contention
- Harishchandra Ghat - the cremation place where Raja Harishchandra did the last rituals of his son.
- Hanuman Ghat
- Shivala Ghat
- Tulsi Ghat - site of the large water purification plant
- Assi Ghat - a popular place to stay, with many hotels, restaurants, and internet cafes
New Vishvanath Temple at BHU
- Alamagir Mosque, (overlooking Panchganga Ghat). a great place for a bird's eye view of the area. edit
- Durga Temple (Monkey Temple). Monkey Temple is also called as durga temple.Monkey Temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga but is known as Monkey Temple due to excessive population of monkeys. It was built by Bengali Maharani in Nagara style. edit
- Gauri Matha Temple. The devi at this temple is supposed to be the sister of the lord Kashi Vishwanath. Its a tradition to visit here just before you leave Kashi. You buy sea shells at this place and offer them to God saying that the virtues of donating the shells goes to her while you keep the virtues of having visited the holy shrines in Kashi and bathing in the ganga. The trip to Kashi is expected to yield results only after completing this custom. edit
- Kaal Bhairav Temple. Dedicated to Kaal Bhairav, a dreaded form of the Lord in Shiva avatar symbolizing death. Its a tradition to buy a black thread (Rs. 15), sanctify it in the shrine, then wear it on the arm, wrist or around the neck as protection against evil. edit
- Nepali Hindu Temple, (near Lalita Ghat). A small golden temple, built in Nepali architecture edit
- Shri Kashi Vishwanth Temple (Golden Temple), . Security is tight making entrance difficult and sometimes completely off limits to foreigners. No bags, cellphones or pens are allowed. They can be deposited in the shops by the temple entrance. The temple was destroyed multiple times by Mughal invaders and was re-constructed by Hindu kings who followed them. edit
- Sankat Mochan Temple. The famous Hanuman temple, home to thousands of monkeys. Security is tight, mobile phones, keys etc. are not allowed inside the temple as a result of moslem terrorist bomb blasts; and as you enter you will be greeted by the sight of hundreds of monkeys on the premises. Beware- they may snatch from you if they see you carrying boxes or packets of food. Inside the temple you will find stacks of hanuman chalisa text for the use of devotees. edit
- Sarnath (10km from Varanasi) - It is believed that in Sarnath Buddha gave his first sermon to his disciples after getting enlightenment. There is also a Museum in Sarnath. The location is also known as Deer Park. Sarnath is 13 Km from Varanasi and is very peaceful. Several Asian countries have built Buddhist temples there following their own ancient architectural traditions.
- Banaras Hindu University, . A very green and peaceful campus. Few actually know that this University was built during the Indian freedom struggle and is known as Oxford of the East. This is the largest residential university of Asia, with 124 departments. You can also visit Bharat Kala Bhavan, a museum of Art and Archaeology inside the university. There is also a huge white marbled temple called Vishwanath Temple which was built by Pt. Madan Mohan Malviya, the founder of the university. edit
- Chunar Fort, (15km southwest of Varanasi). A 2,000+ year old fort. edit
- Kriti Gallery, Raman Niwas, Mahmoor Ganj, Varanasi (opposite All India Radio Station), ☎ 9839058007, . 11-6 pm. A place to interact with contemporary art in the city of Varanasi. edit
- Man Mandir Observatory. edit
- Ramnagar Fort, (Located on the eastern bank of the river, opposite Tulsi Ghat). The fort of the King of Kashi. Built in 1750 in the Mughal style. edit
Sunrise boat rides on the Ganges
- Watch pilgrims bathing in the Ganges - Over 60,000 people come to the ghats every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, most notably at sunrise. This is a fantastic sight to see. However, due to the sewage pipes that discharge feces into the river, along with sunken corpses, there is a risk of infection from numerous diseases such as hepatitis and bacteria such as e-coli. Reports have shown that the Ganges water has a fecal coliform MPN of 88,000 per 100ml, compared to a desirable fecal coliform MPN of 500 per 100ml.
- Boat rides - Very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. Boats can either be rowboats or motorboats. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or one of the many ghats along the river and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations, then down to Dasaswamedh just after sunset to watch the evening aarti ceremony from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price of the boat ride to around ₹50/person per hour. During the boat ride, other boats, usually manned by children, will float up to your boat to sell bowls with flowers and a candle to be offered to the river (₹10) or masala chai (₹10), or various trinkets that are overpriced. It is recommended to avoid polluting the river further by 'offering' non-biodegradable objects to the river. At Nishadraj Ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi Ghat, you can find a boat driver named Bhomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats.
- Explore the alleyways - The sounds, sight and smells are just unbelievable! Walk along the ghats and up to the sights.
- Chhath Pooja (October/November) - The four day festival for the sun god, Dala aka Surya. Rituals include holy bathing, fasting and abstaining from drinking water (Vratta), standing in water for long periods of time, and offering prashad (prayer offerings) and aragh (alcohol) to the setting and rising sun.
- Deepavali, or Diwali (October/November, always at new moon) - The five day festival of lights. The special decorations, ceremonies at the temples, and aarti ceremony at the ghats are spectacular.
- Maha Shivaratri (February) - A Hindu festival celebrating Lord Shiva, who lived in Varanasi according to Hindu mythology. On this day, the streets of Varanasi are filled with pilgrims and parades dedicated to Shiva occur all day. Entrance to temples will require long queue and the temples will be extremely crowded. The day of Shivaratri is also the last day of the Dhrupad Mela, a festival of "Hindustani" (a form of Indian classical music) that goes on night and day for about 72 hours.
- Sanjeevani Booti (संजीवनी बूटी), Assi Ghat, ([email protected]), . A sexual health, drug, and HIV education NGO. There is always demand for foreigners to visit because there is always work related to public health education to be done. A great volunteer opportunity. edit
Yoga classes are very popular among visitors to Varanasi.
- Yoga Training Centre, D.5/15, Shakarkand Lane (Near Meer Ghat), . Run by Sunil Jhingan Kumar. edit
- Siddharth Yoga Center, Mansarowar Ghat (below Lotus Lounge Restaurant), ☎ +91-92368 30966 ([email protected]), . Small-group yoga classes with a view of the Ganges. Taught by Siddharth. edit
Ayurveda treatment classes
Ayurveda treatment is common in Varanasi and you can take classes to learn the techniques:
- Hindi Teacher Varanasi, B1/153, Ganga Math, Assi Ghat, (near Banaras Hindu University), ☎ 91 9452247010 ([email protected]), . Classes in Hindi. edit
- Pragati Hindi, B. 7/176 Harah Bagh Kedar Ghat (follow signs from Chowki Ghat), ☎ 09335 376488 ([email protected]), . Personal classes in Hindi tailored to your requests 350 rupees/hour. edit
- Benares Hindu University, . offers a wide range of classes taught in English on topics related to classical Indian studies. edit
Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's sold everywhere, but shop around and bargain!
- Kapoor Art Private Limited, D 52/28, First Floor, Luxmi Kund, Luxa Road (near Laxmi Temple), ☎ +91-8971849601 ([email protected]), . 9 AM. Varanasi First Government approved silk and saree shops. Shop to buy traditional Banarasi Saree, Banarasi silk saree, embroidery and handmade silk saree. They have the best collection of reasonably priced silk saree. (9 PM,40 years) edit
- Loan Arts & Crafts, s.20/52a nepali kothi (before hotel surya 10 yards left), ☎ 0091--9336062161 ([email protected]). 12. Silk carpets, hand-made, hand-knotted oriental Persian carpets, silk products, silk pashmina, hand embroidery and hand stitched cashmere wool, papier mache and lots of handicrafts. edit
- Mehrotra Silk Factory, K 4-8A, Lal Ghat, Raj Mandir (near Brahma Ghat, follow the multiple yellow signs), ☎ (0091)542 2435892. Government Approved. Has set, reasonable prices and a good selection of handwoven pure silk Sarees, dress materials, bed covers and other silk materials. The older salesman can be extremely persistent and will employ many tricks to lure your wallet. edit
- Pratha, Shop No.38, Kashi Anathalaya Building, Maldahiya (Lahurabir - Maldahiya Main Road, Lane by the Main Anathalaya Building), ☎ (0091)9451089499. 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM. A small shop by the corner, showcasing Hand Block printed cotton kurties, suits and accessories. This store does not offer commissions to guides. edit
- Sri Guru Perfumers, D, 32/15, Munshi Ghat (Bengali Tola Lane, before Spicie Bites. Enter Bengali Tola Lane on the way to Dasaswamedh Ghat. Turn at the Bank of Baroda ATM. There is another perfume shop on the corner before Sri Guru Perfumers, so be aware.). Very nice selection of perfumes and natural oils, some of them are made by the family of the owner Shankar Roy. Their homemade incenses are great. edit
- The Bed Silk & Pashmina, b1/153 ganga math assi varanasi (near palach on ganges hotel), ☎ 00 91 9918280738 ([email protected]), . 9 am. A shop for all kind of gifts (various silk materials and scarfs). Much more to see. 300. (9 pm,7 year) edit
- Wow India, B 1/153, Assi Ghat Road, Ganga Math, Assi Ghat (the big corner shop, follow the tourists). A large collection of handicrafts from all over the country, good herbal teas, incense and plenty more. Prices are moderate and fixed. edit
Banarasi Khana, or local delicacies, are known for their flavors. Many dishes here are flavored with asafoetida, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and/or dried fenugreek leaves.
Benares Dum Aloo is different from the dum aloo cooked elsewhere in India because the potatoes are stuffed with and cooked in a gravy that includes jaggery, fennel, and chili paste.
Varanasi is also known for its street food and chaat vendors. Aloo chaat is very common.
Varanasi Paan is famous all over India and the world. Paan is an assortment of flavors wrapped in a betel leaf. There are two versions: One that includes tobacco, and one that includes only sweet flavors. The exact ingredients depend on how much you offer, which can be as little as ₹10 or as much as ₹300. To eat the sweet version, shove the entire leaf in your mouth at once and chew until you swallow!
Rabri Malai Balai is a popular dessert in Varanasi that includes milk, sugar, almonds, and pistachio nuts. You can find it served in hole-in-the-wall or sweet shops.
There are plenty of food outlets with a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success.
- Keshav Tambool Bhandaar: (near B.H.U.,Ravidas Gate) Paan with natural ingredients.
- Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.
- Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat.
- Madhur Jalpan:The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir (now Spice KCM). Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for.
- Lotus Lounge, D 14/27, Mansrowar Ghat,, ☎ +91 98 38 567717. A very nice place to relax and get safe and tasty food.With a nice view over the river and the ghats. mid range. edit
- Shree Cafe (Vegetarian restaurant), D, 15/2 Manmandir (Near Dasaswamedh Ghat, opposite - Deshbandhu Chittranjan Park), ☎ +91-9839198866. 8:30am - 9:30pm. edit
- Vishnu Tea Imporium (Tea Imporium), D, 15/51 Manmandir (Near Dasaswamedh Ghat, 20 meters from Shree Cafe), ☎ +91-9628533334. 9:00am - 8:00pm. Ask for the Chai experience, in which Vishnu (the owner) will teach you how to make the perfect Chai, plus some tea tasting edit
- 99 Not Out - Veg Cafe, 6 Kashiraj Apartment, Kamachha (Rly Stn - BHU main road near Rathyatra), ☎ 0091-9415226752, . 12.00 Noon to 10.30 PM. Extremely neat & clean place serving pure veg burgers, pizza, pasta, chowmein, hot dog etc. A wide range of thick shakes and exclusive cold drinks along with full range of Ice Creams. edit
- A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north / south Indian dishes.
- Buffalo's Restaurant(near Kedar Ghat Post Office)Newly opened restaurant. Every Sunday they have a chess tournament and jamming sessions on Thursday. Great Thali.
- Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur serve very good north Indian dishes.
- Ganga View on the roof of sita guest house d 22/16 chaustti ghat, varanasi, up india, Indian Continental and Western Food Fresh Food and Purified Water (Non-veg not available)
- Mona Lisa Cafe, (just south and opposite Shiva Cafe). Another good and popular cheapie, with a good range of things on sale, notably a thali for Rs 20, and some Japanese and Korean dishes thrown in for good measure.
- New Bread of Life Bakery (Bread, Cakes and Brownies in Varanasi), Main Road, Parallel to Shivala Ghat (Just past the junction at Shivala Ghat, on your left/hand side heading towards Assi Ghat), ☎ 09415818188. 7am-10pm. The most amazing chocolate brownies and apple pies! Plus good homemade brown bread. Wonderful chocolate chip cookies; pack of three for 60 Rupees, or one for 25. edit
- Nice cafe, Bengali Tola (near Mona Lisa, on turn off for Vishnu GH). 7am - late. Great food cooked only by mum and family. Home kitchen. Clean. Friendly and helpful owner. Very reasonable prices, except on festival days when hot chocolate is poured over everyone for a fixed price of 1000 rupees per person. Check out the garlic/cheese nan and the pancakes! 25-55 for meal. edit
- Ma Sharada Bhojanalaya, Dasaswamedh Road (After the lane that leads to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, keep walking towards the Rajendra Prasad Ghat. Soon you will spot shops selling marble idols on your left, the name board is written in Hindi, however right next to it is the Modern Handicraft Centre), ☎ 09236080264, 09918312589. 1230pm till food lasts! 8PM till food lasts!. Pure Vegetarian (with a Bengali flavour) Nominal, A thali meal consisting of rice and roti with curries cost about Rs.50-60. edit
- Shiva Cafe and German Bakery, D 26/4 Narad Ghat, (near Himalaya Lodge). In the main little alleyway that runs parallel to the river between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat, this place is deservedly popular. The food takes time, but that's because it's prepared fresh, and you'll be happy you waited when the food arrives. Staffed by enterprising Nepalis this has authentic pastas, sandwiches, etc. Healthy food. Favourite amongst long stay residents.
- Aum Cafe / Ayurvedic Cafe : near Assi Ghat, owned and run by Shivani Ayurvedic food/Organic Teas and Coffees, Healthy Vegan/Vegetarian friendly atmosphere with free WiFi. Hearty nutritious dishes. Some Indian and western choices. Located behind the temple on Assi Ghat.
- Bread of Life Bakery, Shivala Road, (a few hundred metres north of Assi Ghat), +91 542 227 5012. Good baked goods, but also a full restaurant with okay breakfasts including "American" pancakes and canned-OJ (no longer freshly-squeezed OJ). Used to be very popular but the quality is now questionable.
- Brown Bread Bakery, Bangali Tola near Pandey Ghat, across the alley from Mona Lisa German Bakery, 09838888823, is a good bakery run by a German baker in Varanasi, be wary of the Indian run bakery with the same name close to Meer Ghat. The real Brown Bread Bakery will NEVER take cash donations for Learn for Life School. Breads and pastries made from organically grown ingredients. Also, a nice range of cheeses. The restaurant has a large menu including Italian, German and Indian classics. It has a great rooftop and offers a breakfast buffet from 7AM-12PM. Also has a home delivery menu. Quality is mostly good and a part of the proceeds supports the Learn For Life School, which is a free school for disadvantaged children in Aurangabad, Varanasi. www.brownbreadbakery.com; www.learn-for-life.net
- Filocafe' ( +91-9839066788), A space to study, read, network, converse, experiment, think… Filocafé provides a perfect heaven for this and much more. Come here to showcase or appreciate up-and-coming talents – musical, intellectual, artistic – or use this free space any other activity that relates to the city or makes us grow as people. Equipped with free Wi-Fi and electrical outlets available to all. Filocafé offers a variety of over 45 types of teas, real espresso coffee (yes, those that come out of Italian espresso machines) and its creative varieties, fresh juices and a few munchies. Open from 12pm-8:30pm. A movie is shown every Sunday at 6pm followed by a special dinner.
- Flavours Cafe, Lanka, ('above axis bank). Great coffee and desserts. Strong filter coffee and lightly accented lattes with a quiet ambiance for a needed break from the city. Free wireless is also a plus.
- Madhur Milan Cafe, Dashashwamedh Road, is a nice place for Indian snacks and meals at cheap prices. The price range for a persons full meal varies between Rs. 40 - 150. Cafe is primarily famous for its fried hot samosas, dosa and kachori sabji. Website: .
- Megu Cafe, Kalika Gali (near Meer Ghat), has excellent vegetarian Japanese food made by a Japanese woman who settled in Varanasi a number of years ago. All dishes are Rs. 85 or less. Closed on Sundays. Menu prices of all items have increased and expect to pay around Rs. 100-130 for a vegetarian and around Rs. 180-200 for non vegetarian main meal.
- Moti Mahal Delux restaurant - in Sigra, 3rd Floor, IP Mall, in the heart of the city. +91-542-2220555. One of the best Indian and mughlai restaurant in the city with a unique fine dining experience. Serves authentic Chinese and continental. Provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city.
- Open Hand Shop & Cafe, Assi Ghat, (around the corner from Hotel Haifa), +91 542 2369 751, . The bakery has daily fresh bread, cakes, pies and various pastries. The food selection includes set breakfasts, salads, bread rolls and fruit salad. The espresso-based coffees and fresh fruit smoothies are the main attractions. The shop is selling fixed-price merchandise on fair-trade principles. Free Internet.
- Radiant Restaurant - at 28A, Sampoornanand Nagar, Sigra, Varanasi 221010, Phones:0542-2223831,2224951,6457808 may be the only 24 hours vegetarian restaurant which serves Indian Homely food apart from Continental Vegetarian dishes and Chinese vegetarian dishes. A place to get healthy and low calorie food. Provides free delivery of your meal at any location in the city.
- Vegan and Raw restaurant - Shivala road, near Tulsi Ghat. Phone 0983-8888824. Sister restaurant of Brown Bread Bakery. A quiet garden set off from the main road to escape the busyness of Varanasi streets. All dishes are vegan, specializes in salads and hand-made pastas. Not fast food, but high quality with a nice atmosphere. Shares a building with Pizzeria Nicoletta for those who prefer non-vegan fare.
- Zaika restaurant - in Shivala, opposite Hotel Broadway. Good Indian/Chinese dishes; try the sweet-corn-pakoras.
Possibly due to a high influx of tourists from Israel, a number of Middle Eastern restaurants have opened in Varanasi, all of which serve very similar food, cater to a predominantly tourist clientèle, and charge a little over Rs 100 for a thali.
- Hayat Mediterranean': near Assi (new location= behind dumraon bag colony park), managed by authentic middle-easterners (from Jordan). Try the labanha (dry yogurt), or the baba ghanSoush (eggplant) with pita. The Nanas (mint-lemon drink) are the best in town. The feta is a tad high in salt, but at least they have it. The restaurant has a tent-like lounge atmosphere that gives it a cult presence. Ask for "hello to the queen" and see smiles.
- Phulwari Restaurant & Sami Cafe: near the Vishwanath Temple crossing, you sit beside a religiously near-defunct but architecturally gorgeous Mahadev temple, and sip on iced teas and nanas. Some locals still consider this a holy site and aren't too happy about the cafe being so close.
- Varuna and Chowk, Taj Ganges Hotel, Nadesar Palace Grounds. Tel+91 542 250-300 - Two restaurants respectively offering Indian and Western cuisine.
- Alcohol is not common in Varanasi, but it is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but they don't offer any sitting arrangement. You can buy whatever you want and bring it to your hotel room.
- Bhang is a potent, powdered form of marijuana often mixed into "special" lassis, simply called bhang lassi. The drink is especially popular on holidays as Varanasi is a major center of Shiva worship as it is offered to the lord in form of Prashad. It can be quite intoxicating.
- Thandai is cool milk based drink made with pistachios, almonds and kesar and topped off with a large dollop of malai (cream). Bhang is often added to thicken the concoction, though it can be made without. Many Tandai stores are located near the main Godowlia, and most also serve lassi.
- Lassi is a blend of yogurt, water, spices and sometimes, fruit. The best place to try lassi in Varanasi is Blue Lassi Shop. There you will find more than 50 types of this drink: with fruit or different toppings. It is a really interesting unordinary place. Quite difficult to find, so better to ask locals to show you the way. Although it's almost always crowded with tourists, it's highly recommended to visit. P.S. take your passport size pic, you can stick it on the wall among thousand other pics.
The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats, which are the main attractions for foreigners and are close to the religious attractions. However, this area is extremely noisy and many accommodation choices here are subpar, so do some research before you book. An alternative to staying in Varanasi is to stay near the main train station (Varanasi Junction). This area has some very nice new places popping-up in the recent years and is only about 10 minutes on a tuk-tuk. Another alternative is the much quieter Sarnath, 10+ km from Varanasi, but it takes 75+ minutes each way to reach Varanasi by tuk-tuk (₹200).
Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. However, the boat will take you up the river and then let the passengers know that for the return trip, there is a fee of ₹60 per person. Those who do not want to pay can get out of the boat and walk back.
Beware that Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that your fan or A/C is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.
- International Travellers' Hostel & Bistro, C-32/4, Vidyapeeth Road, Varanasi, 221002 (5 min walk from Varanasi Junction station, opposite Gate #2 of Vidyapeeth University.), ☎ +91 542 2220058, . A hostel run out of an ancestral family house. The owner lives in Germany, but his staff, Dada and Manash, manage the hostel. There are mixed and female dormitories available with 4-5 beds each. There is a cottage-style luxury room with en-suite bathroom for the ones with a slightly higher budget, and a tent for the ones on extremely tight budget. Breakfast is included in nightly prices. The rooms are cozy and silent with comfortable beds. A/C dorms have single beds and are very spacious. The hostel also features a bistro that serves delicious vegetarian and vegan meals. Their menu also includes – rare to find in India – authentic Italian coffee. There are several pleasant common areas – including a garden and a huge rooftop. It's a great place to be away from the chaos of Varanasi. Very good to socialize with other travellers, and for celebrating Indian festivals, especially Holi. Includes Wi-Fi, TV, iPod dock, DVDs, books, card & board games, PC, lockers, washing machine, communal kitchen and purified drinking water. They also offer power generator back-up, which can be very helpful during scorching Indian summers, so that your room A/C functions even through the long power outages that are very common in India. All-in-all a unique hostel. Highly recommended. Tent: ₹490; Dorm beds: ₹590 / ₹690; Luxury room: ₹3,590. edit
- Ram Bhawan / Kautilya Society Residence (कौटिल्य संघ), D-20/21 Munshi Ghat (on the banks of the River Ganga), ☎ +91 542-2452179, +91 542-2455139 ([email protected]), . This is the study center of an NGO that supports responsible development through dialogue that also offers rooms for students and scholars. The residence is similar to an Indian home with simple comforts and colonial teak furniture. In accordance with Indian law, all guests must become members of the Society and pay membership dues of ₹300. These donations cover half board (₹200 per day for additional guests sharing the same room). In low season rates are approximately 20% lower. Long term guests can enjoy special discounts. Dorm bed: ₹400; Single: ₹1,000; Double: ₹1,700. edit
- Stops Hostel, B 20/47, A-2, Vijayanagaram Colony, Bhelupur (1.1km east of Hanuman Ghat, near the water tower. In an alleyway behind the Dolphin Hotel), ☎ +91 ([email protected]), . checkin: 12PM; checkout: 11AM. Bright, airy, super modern hostel. Location in an alleyway makes it quieter. In a large 3 floor house. Affordable organized activities all day including walking tours (₹100+transport), boat trips, cooking classes (₹200), yoga/mediation classes, movie nights, etc...The hostel is run by a very professional young Indian couple with superb English and a very keen understanding of what a hostel should be with full recommendations for eating, drinking, tourism etc. It has A/C, 24 hour security and a very happy relaxed vibe, especially out on the shaded balconies on the upper floor, complete with benches and sofas, great for meeting other travellers. Highly recommended. Tent on roof: ₹350; Dorm bed: ₹450-650; Double: ₹1900. edit
- Zostel Varanasi, D-54/16-D, Jaddumandi, Aurangabad Luxa Road. checkout: 10AM. A friendly hostel located 20 minutes walk to the main ghat. Very noisy location, but a great place to meet people. Dorm bed: ₹390; Double: ₹990. edit
- Banaras Paying Guest House, Assi Ghat, ☎ +919598520914 ([email protected]). checkin: 11:30am; checkout: "11:00am".economical. All rooms are Share Bathroom and Toilet, but always clean and also two nice roof. The Guest house run by the two Young friendly Brother. who love to helping the guest, and they also provide really good walking tour, Boat Tour, Temple Tour , Market Tour with good English Guide. . Rs450 to Rs750 Double bed. edit
- Bhadrakali Guest House, Along the river, just off the main ghat, ☎ +91 542 245 4104 ([email protected]), . The guesthouse is a colourful, family-owned, music-oriented house with panoramic views of the city and of the River Ganga. A couple of the rooms in this cozy 7 room Guesthouse also have balconies and river views. Highly recommended. edit
- Brown Bread Bakery Guesthouse, Bangali Tola near Pandey Ghat (across the alley from Mona Lisa German Bakery), ☎ 09838888823 ([email protected]), . Located above the Brown Bread Bakery restaurant, the guesthouse is a nice, clean, newly refurnished building. You can view the Ganga from the rooftop and listen to their free Indian classical music concerts from 7:30 to 9:00 every night. They can also arrange tours and boat rides. Single: ₹450 (₹750 w/AC) Double: ₹800 (₹1300 w/AC). edit
- Ganga Fuji Home, (between Man Mandeer Ghat and Dasaswamedh Ghat), . checkin: 11AM; checkout: 11AM. Some rooms have shared bathroom; more expensive rooms have A/C and TV. All rooms are clean, with clean sheets and towel. The rooftop restaurant offers evening concerts every night. Double: ₹840 (non AC), ₹1,300 (w/AC). edit
- Ganges Inn, D20/10 Munshi Ghat, Bangali Tola, Dashaswamedh, Varanasi (http://goo.gl/SWz73e), ☎ +91 542 2450611 ([email protected]), . checkin: 12PM; checkout: 12PM. Excellent location! Everything is just a few minutes away (1 minute to the river, 2 minutes to the Main Ghat where Aarti/nightly ceremony takes place). The owner is very friendly and will treat you like you're a member of his family. Rooms with A/C, hot water/kettle, flat screen TV, reliable and free wifi (lobby and rooms). edit
- Golden Lodge, D 8/35, Kalika Gali (Near Manikarnika Ghat), ☎ +91 99355 12368, . Tucked away in the alleyways, friendly staff. Restaurant on site. Single w/shared bath: ₹350; Double w/shared bath: ₹400; Add 100% for AC, add ₹150 for attached bath. 20% discount in low season.. edit
- Groovy Ganges Guesthouse (ग्रूवी गंगा गेस्ट हाउस), B2/225, B-6-A, Bhadaini (in Bhadaini neighborhood, near Assi Ghat), ☎ 993.618.0896 ([email protected], fax: (001)206.984.1165), . checkin: whenever; checkout: no hurry. Live in an Indian home with an Indian family. Popular with long-term students, researchers, and activists wanting to integrate into local culture. Boiled water is used for all cooking. Book well in advance since many clients are long term. ₹3,000/week. edit
- Hotel River View, K-20/133,134 Rajmandir Brahma Ghat (Walk north from Dasaswamedh Ghat for about 15 minutes, and follow the numerous blue and white painted signs), . US$10-25. edit
- Kedar Guest House, B-1/148-A-2-KH, Lodging Street, close to Pushker Talab (Just 200 meters from Assi Ghat), ☎ +91 941 582 0719, . checkin: 10:00; checkout: 10:00. Highly recommended. Amazing views. The owner is very knowledgeable and will give you maps and explain Varanasi. Landline +91 542 236 8853" Single: ₹350 ; Double with toilet non AC 1.050, with AC 1.350. Hot shower24h. WiFi and Indian/continental Breakfast included. edit
- Maa Vaishno Guest House (माँ वैशो गेस्ट हाउस), B5/188 Shivala Ghat (Shivala Ghat, just off Hanuman Ghat), ☎ +91-9389178569 ([email protected]). checkin: 24hr; checkout: 12-noon. One of the cheapest decent guest houses in the area.There is a nice ganga view a/c room with balcony. Family run guest house. 10 clean rooms, all with attached bathroom with running hot and cold shower and view of the Ganga. Roof top restaurant, sunrise & sun set from roof & room, Free Wi-Fi, laundry service.be alert from the street guide and autorickshaw man who always try to make a fake story for the extra earn money...and try to drop another hotel.... ₹200-1100. edit
- Marigold P. Guest House, D20/10-D Munshi Ghat, Dashashwmedh Ghat (off the main ghat), ☎ +919559811240 ([email protected]). checkin: 13:00; checkout: 12:00. Rooftop view of the Ganges. Highly recommended. From ₹700. edit
- Maruti Guest House (मारुती गेस्ट हाउस), Sahodarbir (near Assi Ghat), ☎ 231.2261, . Friendly family run guest house with clean well lit rooms. There is a roof top garden and restaurant where fresh home made food is served. Power backup for the rooms and hot showers are available as well as broadband Internet access. The owner of the guest house, Dr. V.N. Tripathi, gives Yoga and meditation lessons upon request. "₹500-700"". edit
- Mishra Guest House, Ck 8/178 Garwasi tolla Gaumath Varanasi (Near Manikarnika Ghat), ☎ +91 542 240 1143, . The rooftop restaurant offers free evening concerts every night. Single: ₹200; Double (non-AC): ₹300-400; Double (w?AC): 600-950. edit
- Monu Family Paying Guest House, D8/4 Kalika Gali (Near Golden Temple), ☎ +91 542 240 0908 ([email protected]), . checkin: 13:00; checkout: 11:00. Music, cookery and language courses are available. Single: ₹500; Double: ₹900 (plus ₹500 for AC). edit
- Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel (वायएमसीए हॉस्टल), Mahmoorganj Road, Sampoornanand Nagar Colony (3km east of the main ghat), ☎ +91 542-2224951,2223831, . Opened in 1998. Restaurant with large menu. Does not have dormitories, despite being called a hostel. From ₹765. edit
- Sahi Riverview Guest House, B1/158 A2, Assi Ghat (on Assi Ghat, next to Harmony Book Shop), . Very clean and quiet. Great river views! Recommended. From ₹500. edit
- Sameer Guest House, Near Mahanirvan Ghat and Chet Singh Fort. Maybe not too much clean, but the people here is good. Free wifi, filter water, hot water and breakfast. The place has a really nice garden. * <sleep name="Shiva Kashi Guest House" alt="" address="D22/4 Chausatti Ghat" directions="At Raja Ghat" phone="+91 923 551 2294" url="http://www.shivakashiguesthouse.in/" checkin="" checkout="" price="₹500-2,000">Very clean, well-decorated, quiet guest house. Pleasant and helpful staff. Rooms have windows, are light and airy. Some have balconies. Highly recommended. From ₹250. edit
- Sita Guest House, (On the banks of the Ganges, next to the main ghat), ☎ +91 542 2450061 or 3251088 ([email protected]), . Rooms are reasonably clean, somewhat small and most have a view over the river. Supposedly hot water in every room, the hotel also has a generator for the many power cuts in Varanasi but this often doesn't cover the A/C. Rooftop restaurant. Double (w/AC): ₹1,500-3,000. edit
- Tiwari Guest Lodge, B-1/243-A, Assi Ghat (Assi Crossing, across the street from Hotel Haifa), ☎ +91 2315129. Run by a Brahmin and has a small temple on the site. Very relaxed and well maintained by local standards but do not expect staff to be present all the time. For check-in, the owner can usually be found sitting in the aryuvedic massage cubicle late afternoons. Bring your sheets and towel. Door is locked from midnight to 6AM. Double: ₹500. edit
- Vishnu Rest House, Pandey Ghat, ☎ +919450870727, . A hotel spanned over 200 year old Vishnu temple. A very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river, some rooms with views. You will often find classical music programs and puja held during morning and evening time. The rooms are with power backup and hot water. edit
- Royal Guest House, 3rd Floor Bindal Complex, Mahmoorganj (Near Ksheer Sagar, less than 1km from the Manduadih railway station), ☎ +91 0542 2222007 ([email protected], fax: +91 0542 2222007), . checkout: 12PM. Single: ₹2000; Double: ₹2500. edit
- Hotel Hari Vilaas, Plot No. 32,33, Shri Nagar Colony, Gurubagh (Near Gurudwara, about 1.5 kms from the ghats), ☎ +91 7570009966, +91 9792111151 ([email protected]), . checkout: 12PM. Single: ₹1,500-2,500; Double: ₹2,500-3,500. edit
- Diamond Hotel, Durgakund Road, Bhelupur (Near IP Vijaya Mall, less than 1km from the ghats), ☎ +91 0542 2276696 ([email protected], fax: +91 0542 2276703), . checkout: 12PM. Single: ₹2,500-3,750; Double: ₹3,000-5,500. edit
- Hotel New Temple's Town, 53, Patel Nagar, Cantonment (Just north of Varanasi Junction Railway Station), ☎ +91 542-2507733, +91 542-2507735 ([email protected]). checkin: 12PM; checkout: 12PM. US$43. edit
- Gautam Hotel, C-26/35D, Lahurabir, Ramkatora Crossing, ☎ +91 94530 37806, . checkin: 12PM; checkout: 12PM. A budget 3-star hotel. Not walkable to the ghats. US$16-25. edit
- The Gateway, (Nadesar Palace Grounds), ☎ +91 542 250 3001 ([email protected]), . A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. From ₹5,000 in the low season, ₹6,500 in the high season. edit
- Nadesar Palace, Nadesar Palace, ☎ +91 542 6660002-06, . A five-star hotel owned by the Taj Group. The building of the hotel used to be the residence of Mr. Davis, the Magistrate of Benares, in January of 1799. The same palace was later occupied by Maharaja Prabhu Narain Singh during his rule between 1889-1931. From ₹20,000 in the low season, ₹29,000 in the high season.. edit
- A Palace on the River, Rashmi Guest House, D, 16/28-A | Dasaswamedh (On Dasaswamedh Ghat), ☎ +91 542 240 2778, . Great views and location. From ₹7,000. edit
- Radisson, ☎ +91 542 250 1515, . From ₹3,200 in the low season, ₹5,500 in the high season. edit
- Ramada Plaza JHV, The Mall Cantonment, ☎ +91 542 2510000, . edit
- Surya, The Mall Cantonment, ☎ +91 542 2508466, . edit
Violent crime is rare, but still do be careful in the lanes after dark.
Carry a light or phone; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight, let alone in pitch dark, because of their broken paving stones and cows common.
Rickshaw / taxi scams
Rickshaw / taxi scams are common in Varanasi, and the driver will inevitably tell you that the hotel that you wish to go to has burned down, is flooded, or closed. Don't believe him. Drivers receive commission from hotels for bringing in new guests, and this is one way to trick newcomers to going to these places. Don't get annoyed, but see the exchange as playful banter and part of the Varanasi experience. However, if the driver continuously refuses to follow your instructions, threaten to get out of the rickshaw. If after all this you still end up at a different place, just refuse to pay until you arrive at your hotel. The same procedure will need to be followed when sight seeing, as drivers will inevitably try to take you to handicraft stores, from which they receive commission. If calling for a pickup from a more respectable hostel, be wary that other taxi drivers may listen in to your phone conversation then tell another taxi driver who will pick you up pretending to be your hostel, then take you to a commission charging hostel.
Cremation ghat scams
As you approach Manikarnika Ghat, you will be approached by touts posing as cremators or volunteers in a local hospice. These people will explain the cremation process and even lead you to a good viewpoint. They will then take advantage of your emotions by asking you to pay for some wood to burn the body of someone who can't afford it. They will usually insist on receiving ₹500 - if you offer less, it will be initially be declined. This is a complete scam. Either tell him you have no money or that you don't feel comfortable donating.
Photography is strictly prohibited.
There is, rather understandably, some resentment at tourists trespassing up to the cremation ghats for raucous sightseeing at the funeral ceremonies of loved ones. Behave respectfully and do not take photographs of cremations, even from the river. You can take photographs if it is from a distance; most do not mind. There are touts who will "stop minding"for a fee. Note that if it is the family that objects then you have to respect it but not if local touts object in the interest of extracting money. Offer the money and if they seem ready to accept, withdraw it and photograph! Call the police if necessary.
Since this city is full of temples you will have to take off your shoes/sandals at every point. Wear flip flops that are easy to take off.
BSNL, Reliance, Vodafone, and Airtel are the most popular cell phone services in the region. If you bring your GSM cellphone from home, you can buy a SIM card and call within India and abroad. You will need your passport and a passport photo to buy a SIM card.
Wi-Fi is available at just about every hotel or restaurant that caters to foreign tourists. Internet Cafes are common, especially in the lanes between Dasaswamedh Ghat and Assi Ghat. Usually, the shopkeepers will record your passport information before giving you access to the Wi-Fi.
Calling abroad is cheap from Iway branches.
- Agra - the next point on the tourist "Golden Triangle". Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day.
- Allahabad - Another spiritual city along the Ganges, Allahabad can be reached via a 3-hour bus ride.
- Delhi - The capital city of India can be reached via a 13-hour train ride.
- Gaya - One of the most sacred places to do Pind Dan (funeral offerings for the benefit of the soul of the deceased). A 4+ hour drive from Varanasi.
- Jaunpur - The district just northwest of Varanasi, it is primarily a rural area.
- Khajuraho - South of Varanasi, it is a bit out of the way, but is famous for its many 1,000+ year-old Hindu and Jain temples.
- Lucknow - known for its good food, it is a good place to stop for a day on the way to Delhi.
- Nepal - buses travel to the Nepali border where you can transfer to Kathmandu and Chitwan buses. Most buses go via Gorakhpur and can take 8-12 hours, or there are daily flights. There are a number of travel agents in Varanasi which will sell you tourist/AC buses to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Avoid these services (especially the operator Paul Travels) because they are not actually tourist buses. Instead, they are actually the local, public buses and once you get across the Nepal border, they will try to get more money from you.
- Sarnath - One of the most sacred places for Buddhists, known as the place where Lord Buddha gave his first speech after his enlightenment. 10+ km from Varanasi, 1 hour+ by Auto rickshaw (₹200 each way). Other option is take one share Auto rickshaw to Varanasi Jn. (₹10 to ₹25) and then another share Auto rickshaw to Saranath (₹100 for four persons) - March 2015
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