Ulleungdo is an island to the east of the Korean peninsula. It is a largely rural island rich in natural beauty and popular with Korean tourists. It sees little foreign tourism and is not set up well for those who do not speak Korean, a fact somewhat offset by the warmth of the local residents.
Ulleungdo does not have an airport, so access is only possible by ferries, which arrive at both its Dodong and Jeodong ferry terminals. Ferries are operated by Dae-A Express , Seaspovill and Dae-zer . Departure points from the mainland include Gangneung and Mukho in Gangwon, and Pohang and Hupo in North Gyeongsang. The Mukho Ferry Terminal is in the city of Donghae. There are 4-5 boats a day in peak season, and 1-2 during the quieter winter months. Fares vary based on operator and ferry terminal, but are all around 50-60,000Won for a standard one way single. First class seats cost an additional 20,000 or so.
Timings and frequency of services vary month by month, for exact timings check the websites listed above. Ferries may be cancelled or delayed due poor weather. Note that the sea around Ulleungdo can be rough and seasickness is frequently encountered on these ferries.
Local buses link the two main towns of Dodong and Jeodong, and can transport you to popular sites including Bongnae Falls, Nari, and Gwaneum-do Island. Up-to-date bus schedules can be found at the tourist information booths in Dodong and Jeodong and from the link below (Korean language only, both on site and online). Though the tourist information workers speak little to no English, they do have on hand English language maps and site information, and can help decipher the bus schedule for you. As of May 2016, the basic fare is 1000 won to travel between Dodong and Jeodong, other fares (including the hour-long Dodong-Cheonbu trip) are 1500 won. The buses do stop running a lot earlier than on mainland Korea, so bear this in mind, as it is difficult to get a taxi at night unless you are in Dodong or Jeodong.
In addition to the bus system, which is cheap and runs very punctually, taxis are a good option to get around the island. You can catch them at the Dodong Port when you get off. A taxi ride around the island should set you back around 80 to 90,000 won a day. There is also the option to rent a car but knowing someone who speaks the language would be a big plus.
Bus timetables can be found by following this link to the City Hall website. http://ulleung.go.kr/dataFiles/businfo/bus_schedule.htm
Rich in tourist attractions, Ulleungdo will not leave you wanting for things to see.
Some of the food items that are unique to the island is honghap bap, seasoned rice with mussels; sanchae bibimbap, rice mixed with sprouts and roots found natively'; yakso bulgogi, barbequed beef that was raised on herbs and vegetables growing on the island. Other food items special to Ulleungdo is the cuttlefish and the hobak yeott (squash candy).
Most of the restaurants in Dodong-ri are clustered in the same small area. It is a couple of minutes past the information centre then on the straight road towards Jeodong-ri. Here are two that serve the specialty dishes at decent prices.
Ulleung Yakso Sutbul Garden open from 8 am to midnight in the peak season, this place offers yakso bulgogi and honghap bab. Prices range from W6,000 to W15,000. Call at 82-54-791-0990.
99 Sikdang here you'll find their famous ojing-eo bulgogi (spicy grilled squid mixed with veggies) at around W9,000. Also you'll find another island specialty, taggaebibap (shellfish with rice) at W14,000. Call 82-54-791-2287.
The island is strewn with different types of housing for tourists. You'll have motels, minbaks or pension houses that rent out equipped rooms, tourist hotels, etc. Dodong Port is where everything meets; this is the end and starting point for the transport vehicles. About 10 minutes out of Dodong, in the mountainside you'll find the Ulleung Marina Tourist Hotel (82-54-791-0020). A room should set you back around 70,000 won. The Chusan Ilga Pension (82-54-791-7788) is right below Mt. Songgotsan in Chusan-ri, Buk-myeon, the other side of Dodong-ri. It's between two steep mountain faces on a cliff overlooking the ocean and a great view of the Elephant Rock. A room should cost around 60,000 won. For a less expensive alternative, you can stay at the Seonginbong Motel (82-54-791-2677). Recently newly renovated, it is right by the marina at Dodong and will set you back about 40,000 won. Jeodong has one hotel, Dokdo Hotel, which is situated on the harbor and costs 90,000 won for a double (ondol or Western bed).
Camping is also an option. You may camp on the beaches; usually this is limited to a summer option. These are mondol beaches, which means they are rocky sloping places that join the sea. Not awesome, but you may be able to manage a spot with a small tent. Be aware the winds are strong. A list of beaches in clockwise order around the island: Naesujon (this is supposed to be the best option when it isn't under water), Tonggumi, Namyang, Chusan, Jukam. The former beach at Sadong is non existant due to the new port. A free campground used to be available in Nari basin (Nari-bunji) but it was closed in August 2012 due to a contamination issue with the local spring water.
For more information on all of these sites, you can contact the Ulleung Tourist Office at 82-54-790-6465. Operators should be able to communicate in English as well. If not, there's always the trusty 82-54-1330 that have operators speaking English, Japanese and Chinese.