The mighty Thaiwand Wall with Phra Nang Beach on the right
Rai Leh (อ่าวไร่เล), also commonly known as Railay, is a tourist area located on the Andaman Coast of Thailand, in Krabi Province. Rai Leh is primarily known as a rock climbing hot spot, attracting climbers from all over the world to its superb towering limestone.
As Rai Leh is a peninsula surrounded by ocean and mountains, final access can only be by boat. Long-tails depart from Ao Nang (10 minutes, 100 baht/person, minimum 8 people) and Krabi (30 minutes) on demand, making those towns the gateways to Rai Leh. If you arrive after 6PM on a later flight, and nobody else is around to share the boat, they will charge you a very steep 1500 baht from Ao Nang to Rai Leh West, as of Oct 2013. It's also possible to access Rai Leh via regular ferries that run between Ko Lanta, Ko Phi Phi, and Phuket Town (from Rassada Pier) (more frequent in the November-May dry season; times available from local travel agents, or check  online ferry schedules).
If you're going to Tonsai, it's closer to get a boat from Ao Nang (but you can also walk from Railay - just mind it's a trail, not a paved path). A note: if you get to Ao Nang on a bus from the airport and you mention "Tonsai", bus guys might try to convince you to exit earlier at Chaya resort - there are boats to Tonsai there, but way less people so you might end up paying for the whole boat or walking to Ao Nang - so just go to Ao Nang.
The Krabi, Phuket, Ko Lanta and Ko Phi Phi articles have information on reaching the gateways to Rai Leh from throughout Thailand. From Bangkok there are flights to Krabi and Phuket, direct bus services, and trains to Surat Thani with onward connections by bus.
NB: If departing from Ao Nang, be aware that you're expected to walk out several metres into the surf before getting on a boat (depending on the tide). It might be best to change into clothes suitable for getting wet, or at the very least be sure you don't have more luggage than you can carry a few metres into the ocean.
As of July 2013, this is also true of departure from Krabi town.
Rai Leh is considered to be all of the peninsula, which has four primary areas:
- Phra Nang: (shown as Pranang Cave Beach in local maps) a white sand beach, on the southern tip of the peninsula. Can get crowded and busy. This just average beach, is 20 minutes away from Ao Nang by long-tail boat. It has a nice scenery and is a good swimming beach when the tide is high. However, during the low tide it looks dreadful and the only thing to do here is to listen to the never-stopping boat noise while watching the climbers right off the beach. It already has all the things that spoil a beach: pollution, traffic, noise, over-enthusiastic hawkers, and lager louts.
- Rai Leh East: the mangrove side of the peninsula, used by long-tails to/from Krabi. Not good for swimming or sunbathing. Some of restaurants and bars. Mid-range to budget accommodations.
- Rai Leh West: a fine beach of white sand and shallow water, where most long-tails arrive from Ao Nang. North end of the beach is great for swimming but as Most of other beaches in the area, completely unusable during the low tide. Be careful, it is rocky under the water. Mid- to high-end accommodations. To the right, the bay stretches away past Ton Sai to the massive Sleeping Indian cliffs, so named because that is exactly what they resemble at night. The kilometre-long Sleeping Indian is lying on his back, with his hands folded across his midriff, his feet sticking up and a feather sticking out of his headdress. It’s an uncanny resemblance, especially at night-time.
- Ton Sai: a cove around the corner from Rai Leh West where rock climbers and backpackers hang out in cheap accommodations and practice climbing.
The place to catch the sunset is at Flametree's very comfortable bar, right in the middle of the beach. This, the only bar on west Rai Leh, is always a quiet, and has to be a candidate for SE Asia’s best beach bar. After sunset West Rai Leh Beach starts to empty and by midnight is usually almost completely deserted, except for the occasional party of illicit skinny-dippers, enjoying a dip au naturel at the northern end of the beach, where there are no resorts and thus no people around.
Midnight swims, au naturel or otherwise, are sensational on dark nights, when the brilliant-blue bio-luminescence in the water lights up disturbed water like a neon-lit Christmas tree. To best appreciate this amazing phenomenon, bring a pair of swimming goggles along and swim underwater for a while. The bio-luminescence will wreath your body in a million tiny blue lights, in surely the loveliest clothes you've ever worn.
It's a 5-10 minute walk between any of these landmarks, except for Ton Sai, which is a longer hike through the jungle. The village itself is a pedestrian's dream, as there are no cars, and the uneven bumpy walkways make even bicycles impractical.
- Phra Nang Cave, also known as Diamond Cave, on the east side of the peninsula, to the north of Rai Leh East, is an interesting place to explore and one of the few strictly sight-seeing destinations at Rai Leh. A nominal entrance fee pays for a short walk along the lit boardwalk through formations that glitter as if they were full of diamonds. Though not breathtakingly large (and thus easily viewed in about fifteen minutes) it is quite beautiful. The cave is a common stop for day trips from Phuket and Ao Nang. Admission is B100 for adults.
- Phra Nang Shrine, north end of Phra Nang Beach. Dedicated to the spirit of the drowned princess (phra nang) who gave the beach her name, this small shrine in a small cave is notable primarily for the dozens of carved red-tipped phalluses donated by fishermen seeking her favour.
- Lagoon & Viewpoint, walking on the path from East Rai Leh to Phra Nang Beach there is a sign that points towards an upward path to a viewpoint of Rai Leh and Ton Sai. The climb to the top takes anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes depending on your fitness (note that you're going up by rocks and tree roots, and while there's a rope - it's still steep, so consider wearing something better than sandals) and to the viewpoint another 10 minutes. From the top of the trail, there is another path that leads down towards the jungle for about 15-25 minutes to the lagoon. The path to the lagoon is steep, rocky, slimy and dangerous. Some have carried climbing gear to reach the lagoon. There are hand ropes along the steeper parts of the path, but note that if you are not in decent shape, wearing only sandals, or carrying a heavy pack, the trip is not advisable. Monkeys may be encountered in the forest here. They can be approached cautiously, but feeding or petting them is not a good idea. Watch your belongings, as they can quickly snatch glasses, wallets, or food from you.
Rai Leh is perhaps the best winter sport rock climbing area in the world, with over seven hundred bolted routes up limestone faces with breathtaking views over the ocean. If you are an avid rock climber, chances are you already know about this place and the spectacular cliffs are the reason you are here.
Climbing is graded on the French scale, most is steep and challenging with only limited possibilities for beginners. Due to the corrosive nature of the seaside location, the steel bolts may be of questionable integrity, bolt failure is not uncommon here, and threads (rope tied through holes in the rock) may be of questionable integrity as well. Overall the rock quality is superb; however, like everywhere else, you will find the occasional loose section including the famed Rai Leh stalactites.
Required climbing gear: Rai Leh and around is all sport climbing. Beyond a 60 metre (200 foot) rope, sixteen quickdraws, your harness, shoes, and a lot of chalk, you won't need much else. Anything you forget or don't have can be rented at the climbing shops.
Guides: Rai Leh and Ton Sai have several guide operators with services ranging from introductory rock climbing courses to rent-a-belay partners.
- Hot Rock climbing" located in a pop up shop at the moment next to Anyavee Resort on the east side ( whilst waiting for their new premises to be ready)This shop runs deep water solo trips on their sail boat. Best day out climbing and cliff jumping and snorkeling. Very chilled fun day out in a small group led by a great Aussie guy.
- King Climbers  - is now located on the West side in the walking street
- Real Rocks Climbing School Ralay, Krabi  In East Rai Leh, just a few meters down the path that leads to West Rai Leh. Small shop but friendly staff who know their stuff. Ask for Tik he is one of the most popular climbers in Railay, everyone knows where he is!
Guide books: There are guide books published in a variety of languages by the local guide shops, each providing excellent directions and route finding. Most were updated around 2004 or more recently and can be ordered online, directly from the guide shop, or your local climbing store might carry stock.
- Rock Climbing in Thailand  by Elke & Wee. New edition 2007.
- Thailand: A Climbing Guide  published by The Mountaineers and written by Sam Lightner Jr. All the money earned from it is to be donated to the re-bolting cause.
Diving & snorkelling
Rai Leh is not a major diving spot as the local coral and sea life is not as diverse or spectacular as other areas of Thailand. However, there is a dive shop that will certify divers and take them on boat trips to decent dive sites, including a sunken wreck. Serious divers tend to prefer the Similan Islands, Ko Phi Phi or Ko Lanta for quality diving.
- King Cruiser is a car ferry that sank in 1997, providing the area with its only wreck, located at 30 m. Unfortunately its condition is deteriorating fairly fast in the warm waters. This is the most popular dive site in the area.
- Snorkelling is not a major draw for Rai Leh though it is possible to swim out and see coral and fish a few meters off the sandy beaches. Beware of the ever present long-tail boat traffic. Most looking for some snorkelling fun rent a long-tail and head for the islands south and west of Rai Leh, such as Poda Island, but even there the snorkelling is only so-so. Some hotels organize snorkelling trips or you may prefer to charter your own boat for the afternoon. A one-way trip usually takes less than 25 minutes.
While not as good as at Phang Nga, the kayaking around the peninsula at Rai Leh affords a great alternative to climbing and a stunning view of the area. Several of the limestone islets off Phra Nang Beach have sea caves eroded into their bases, including a few large enough to offer opportunities to beach the kayaks and explore. Paddling into caves and through subterranean passages is particularly interesting, but watch out for low, jagged ceilings. For those with more ambition, a short open-water crossing (about one hour of steady, heavy paddling) leads to the private island of Ko Poda which has beautiful and relatively isolated beaches.
Several bungalow resorts on the Rai Leh West side of the peninsula have sea kayaks available for rental for around 600 baht/half-day, 1,000 baht/full-day (including life-vests). The kayaks are simple two-seat plastic models, but perform fine on the millpond-smooth water of the bay. A half-day is probably plenty long enough to explore the immediate environs of Rai Leh. A bottle of water, a hat, and plenty of sun protection are essential!
If you are a strong kayaker, and feeling quite adventurous, you can get to Poda island by Kayak. The 5 mile trip takes 1-1.5 hours each way however, so bring water and plenty of sunscreen.
Rai Leh itself does not offer many trekking opportunities, as the peninsula is so tiny. The one interesting and undeveloped area is the jungle atop the limestone towers that make up the club-shaped southern end of the peninsula. Along the paved path that runs from Rai Leh East to Phra Nang Beach, a so-called "trail" leads up a slippery, rocky embankment to the jungle-covered plateau. A narrow, indistinct trail circles the top of the southern tower, with a left turn offering access to the highest point (accessible via a sheer face and thus navigable only with climbing gear) as well as a fantastic lookout point over the peninsula. A right turn on the path leads downward into a hidden glen, which provides access to the secret lagoon called Sa Phra Nang or Holy Princess Pool. The route from this glen to the lagoon leads down a steep, rocky ravine, and the path is covered with slippery red clay, making it quite treacherous even for the experienced. The technique is not so much climbing as scrambling, and the knotted nylon ropes are often more dangerous than they are helpful. The lagoon itself is breathtakingly beautiful, but try not to step in, as the soft bottomless muck has quite a penchant for trekkers' footwear.
Rai Leh has many small general convenience stores with various essentials at probably the highest prices in Thailand. Most essential things such as water and food is about 5 times more expensive than in Krabi town (or most of the country). Though shoppers (souvenir or otherwise) will be better satisfied in nearby Ao Nang, clothing, souvenirs, beachwear and such are all also available in various small shops in Rai Leh East and Rai Leh West. There are no real grocery vendors, so meals are limited to the restaurants, though some small snack items are available in the convenience stores. Expect all these items to be also significantly overpriced with low quality standard. There are several ATMs located in the main resort areas.
Rai Leh has a variety of restaurants to choose from, although none are remarkable (for Thailand at least) in character or quality. In general however, the food is what you would expect for this heavy tourist destination—below average in terms of taste and quality and ridiculously expensive.
Rai Leh West has four restaurants: one for each of the three hotels on the beach. All offer breakfast, lunch, and dinner along the beach with a lovely view of the surroundings.
Rai Leh East has more restaurants and the variety is much greater, though none offer the scenery of the west beach (restaurants near Diamond Cave may be an exception where they offer an impressive view of the bay from their position higher up the hill).
- Flame Tree Restaurant, Walking St, Rai Leh West. Decent food, good spot for breakfast or lunch. Monopoly on "casual" food by Rai Leh West means pretty high prices. Includes a coffee station and sister ice cream parlour across the way, stocked with good "Buds of San Francisco" ice cream. Staff need a little encouragement to bring the bill. 200+ baht. (8.011413,98.837946) edit
- Local Thai Food Restaurant, Rai Leh (on the footpath between Walking St on Rai Leh West and Ya Ya Rd on Rai Leh East). May have an actual name but they don't advertise it. While sitting next to the trees and cliff face is nice, beware of the large black mosquitoes swarming from the nearby stream. (8.012314,98.840169) edit
- Railay Bay Resort & Spa Restaurant, Rai Leh West (south end of Rai Leh West Beach), . Expensive, but not extortionate, meals that vary from edible to good. Not the best food but a wide variety. Friendly, but slow, service if busy, which it often is. Right on the beach front so very scenic most of the time but bad weather can be a problem. 160-500 baht. (8.010391,98.838024) edit
- The Rock Restaurant & Bar, Diamond Cave path, Rai Leh East (on the walk from Rai Leh East to Ao Ton Sai). This is closed at the moment 100-300 baht. (8.014871,98.841494) edit
- Utopia Restaurant, Rai Leh (on the footpath between Walking St on Rai Leh West and Ya Ya Rd on Rai Leh East). This is closed. (8.012146,98.839327) edit
- Yam-Yam (Yum Yum), Ya Ya Rd, Rai Leh East (behind Diamond Cave Restaurant). Cheaper Thai food, but with arguably better food. Curries are recommended. Free WiFi. 100-300 baht. (8.013195,98.843345) edit
There are several bars situated on the west beach, each attached to one of the hotel restaurants, and all quite pleasant for a relaxing sunset cocktail.
- Rai Lay Bay Resort Bar is attached to the restaurant at the Rai Lay Bay Resort and Spa Hotel. The bar is on the beach and is lined with stools and shaded by the nearby palm trees. As it is the largest bar on Rai Leh West, it usually fills up quite quickly prior to sunset. NB: Currently under renovation.
Rai Leh East offers more in the way of energetic bars with dance music.
- Bamboo Bar" have awesome cocktails and friendly staff. From chilled out evenings with reggae music to their Muay Thai fights and dance party that they have every second night this place is not to be missed. Here you can book in a Thai boxing course with their on site trainer Yaya, have a massage at their massage shop or get a tattoo done with Boy, their super lovely tattoo artist. Its all going on here.Definitely a great way to spend the evening.
- Joy Bar is a fun, relaxed place to have a cocktail or two. It features a small deck where you sit on mats overlooking the shore. It's located just north of the middle of East Rai Leh.
- Last Bar really is the last bar. At the end of Rai Leh East, it is the closest thing to a dance club Rai Leh has to offer. With nightly shows, and plenty of travellers, it is the place to spend the night if you plan on having a few Chang beers.
Rai Leh primarily caters to two groups: honeymooners/families and rock climbing backpackers. Fortunately, there is accommodation to suit both ranging from bamboo bungalows to concrete three storey hotels. Prices typically double during high-season (November-April inclusive)
Most Rai Leh budget accommodation is found on the east side of Rai Leh. For the best variety of budget accommodation (wooden bungalows) try neighbouring Ton Sai Beach - a ten minute walk or one minute long-tail ride—where rooms can be had for a few hundred baht/night.
- Railay Cabana Bungalows — The cheapest accommodation on Rai Leh are a collection of bamboo bungalows, found behind Diamond Cave on Rai Leh East. Prices can be as low as 100 baht in the low season, July/August. Reaching 700 baht in high-season. The savings does come with a price, as you can expect a 10-15 minute uphill walk from the beach.
- Anyavee Railay (Anyawee), Ya Ya Rd, Rai Leh East, . Offering 3 room types, swimming pool, daily breakfast. 1,700-6,000 baht (high)/800-1,200 baht (low). (8.012138,98.842057) edit
- Diamond Cave Resort  is at the far end of Rai Leh East, with steps from near the beach leading up to well-maintained gardens with a pool, surrounded by a variety of concrete bungalows, several of them nestled into the jungle marking the edge of town. High-season rates 2,000-3,400 baht.
- Diamond Private Resort  Overlooks the Andaman Sea and limestone of Rai Leh Bay on the east in Krabi province. Address: 36 Moo 1.
- Railei Beach Club  rents private houses. The homes are located on the western side of Rai Leh, adjacent to Walking St, and vary in size and quality. A few now have air conditioning and all houses have hot water and include daily maid service. High-season rates begin at 3,000 baht for a single room home and range up to 18,000 baht for a three bedroom home that sleeps eight.
- Railay Bay Resort & Spa, . Straddling the whole of Rai Leh peninsula's narrowest point, very nice cottages. As of May 2012, its nearby sister hotel, Railay Princess, has bought Ya Ya Resort, demolished it, and plans to complete a budget wing on-site by November 2012. As such, some tranquillity is lost but they are offering free nights with bookings. For example, book 3 nights, get 1 free. It is further from the building site than Railay Princess so this is a good deal. 4,500-19,000 baht (high) / 3,000-12,000 baht (low). (8.010298,98.838404) edit
- Railay Great View Resort, Rai Leh East (walk), . Tucked away on its own away from the hustle and bustle. Gorgeous views with very well-designed cottages with a mix of traditional and modern design. Free WiFi throughout. Restaurant & mini-mart on-site. Restaurant does not serve alcohol. Room rate includes buffet breakfast (reasonably good variety & quality). Very steep incline up into the resort so not for aged, infirm, or tipsy! Guests have said that the longtail boat noise from 06:00 is extremely loud. Fan 1,200 (low)/1,500 baht (high), Air-con 2,000/3,150 baht, Deluxe 2,500/3,750 baht. (8.013663,98.848374) edit
- Railay Phutawan Resort, formerly named 'Railay Highland Resort', recently renovated and upgraded to a modern hotel. Price ranges between 1,200-3,500 baht/night. Located in the middle of Rai Leh behind Diamond Cave Resort, Railay Phutawan offers a complete set of basic room amenities, e.g., fan, air-conditioner, shower, bathroom.
- Railay Princess, . Between Rai Leh East and West, with daily breakfast and swimming pool in the valley of high limestone mountain. Slightly cheaper sister of Railay Bay Resort & Spa hotel. As of late Nov 2013, they are selling rooms to walk ups for 1700/night, although online reservations still seem to start at 2800. 1,700-5,000 baht. (8.010122,98.839794) edit
- Railay Viewpoint Resort  Set in beautiful natural surroundings boasting unbeatable views of Rai Leh Beach and the hanging limestone crags beyond. Over the mountain through the natural forest, then back down to West Beach for the 30 minute sunset to the sandy white beaches of Rai Leh.
- Railay Village Hotel, . Collection of concrete bungalows, each with private bathroom and fan or air-con, set back off the beach in a garden setting. 500-2,000 baht (high). edit
- Sand Sea Hotel  is similar to Railay Village Hotel in that it is a collection of concrete bungalows. Private bathrooms, choice of fan or air-con and quietly set back off the beach in a garden setting. Although the included breakfast buffet is nothing special for Thailand, the rooms have a marginally nicer decor, and it has a nice swimming pool which attracts a more family-oriented clientèle. The resort also does not sell alcohol, although alcohol may be purchased from outside the resort and brought in to be drunk in the rooms or even at the restaurant. High season rates 3,500-5,700 baht for double occupancy.
- Sunrise Tropical Resort & Spa, , 39 Moo 2. 27 rooms: 2,000-6,500 baht
- Bhu Nga Thani Resort, Rai Leh East, ☎ +66 75 819 451-4 ([email protected], fax: +66 75 819 455), . Opened in mid-2009, with 60 rooms. Curiously up-market considering its setting on less obviously impressive Rai Leh East. Restaurant rarely busy, but beautifully designed. 6,000-40,000 baht. (8.010712,98.840985) edit
- Rayavadee, Phra Nang (access either from the south of Rai Leh East or Phra Nang Beach), ☎ +66 75 620 740, . The only resort on Phra Nang Beach, with a jaw-droppingly gorgeous view and prices to match. You'll be looking at upwards of 20,000 baht/night for a stay here. However, after mid-morning the gorgeous public Phra Nang Beach is quite popular and so the room rates do not guarantee the sort of privacy you'd expect. The interior is however private and beautiful (supposedly, but who knows? Non-residents are reminded by frequent signs not to enter). 22,300-128,000 baht (low)/35,000-160,000 baht (high) before tax and service charges. (8.007371,98.840716) edit
Do not take valuables with you when swimming at night on the beach as there has been reports of things going missing.
Getting a tattoo is a popular thing to do on any vacation, but beware of the tattoo scam here. Getting a tattoo in Rai Leh is strongly discouraged. You will be severely overcharged for a tattoo using questionably sterile equipment by a questionably skilled artist. First, in order to impress you, they will show photographs that have been downloaded and printed from the Internet and passed off as their own work. Unless the artist is in the photograph with the recipient, it is probably not their own work.
Once you have described what you want to the artist, they will refuse to give you any kind of estimate, and insist that they must first draw the design on you with a pen before giving you a cost but tell you that drawing is free. While they are drawing, they will delay you as much as possible in order to get you drunk. They'll convince you that the tattoo hurts less with more alcohol, pretend to be your friend and drink with you, have drinks delivered from nearby bars (which of course you have to pay for) and various deceptive and manipulative tactics. Once they feel you're drunk enough, they will finish the drawing and give you a price that is three times the cost of a tattoo from more skilled artists in the United States. They're counting on you being too drunk to realize how much you're spending and you'll just go to the nearest ATM, or that you just won't care if you highly overpay because you're on vacation. They may bargain down to about twice the cost of an American tattoo if you're lucky.
Even if you don't care about the cost, getting a tattoo here is still highly inadvisable. The artists here are not as skilled as they appear to be, and since they use a bamboo needle without sufficient skill the tattoo will not last as long. Although they may claim to use new disposable needles, the sterility of their equipment is questionable at best.
Ao Nang, Phi Phi, Ko Lanta, Ko Mook, Ko Ngai and Phuket are easy destinations from Rai Leh and transportation can be easily booked through any hotel or activity centre.
Geting out of Railey is sometimes a problem, as longtails just depart if full (9 people during the day, 100 baht/person or 6 people after 6pm, 150 baht/person) or pay the full rate of longtail as high as 900 baht). If you are trying to get to Ao Nang after 6pm, it's best to wait here in Railey rather than Tonsai. Try to leave early to avoid being stuck on the beach or paying several hundred baht for a short trip. The boatmen are not keen to negotiate.
|This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!