The 18th arrondissement  of Paris is probably best known for the hill of Montmartre which was the centre of the Communard uprising of the late nineteenth century, but is also perhaps better known as the centre of the flourishing artist community of the period from around 1907 to 1914. Picasso, Dali, Duchamp, Toulouse-Lautrec, and others from the vibrant early modern period lived and worked here until driven out either by political considerations during the First World War or rising property values thereafter. The 18th is also the home of a thriving ethnic community in the east and *was* a sort of a red-light district along Boulevard de Clichy near Place Pigalle.
Many of the hotels of the 18th are within walking distance of Gare du Nord, so if you are arriving from Britain, Belgium or the Netherlands, consider walking or taking a taxi should you arrive at night or with baggage.
From other parts of Paris, your best bet is to arrive by Métro. The 18th is primarily served by the Métro 4 and 12 lines from the city centre, or the 2 from the east and west.
Stations of note
- Abbesses The station is fairly high up the slope of the hill, and the line is fairly deep underground, so getting up and down is part of the fun either in a seven-story spiral staircase decorated from top to bottom with murals by local amateur painters, or in one of two high-capacity modern elevators. If you have time and good knees the choice is clear.
Line 2 stops at stations from west to east: Place de Clichy, Blanche, Pigalle, Anvers, and Barbès-Rochechouart.
Line 4 has stops at stations from south to north: Barbès-Rochechouart and Chateau Rouge.
Line 12 has stop at stations from south to north: Pigalle, Abbesses
- Sacré-Cœur (La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre), (Place de Parvis du Sacré Coeur / rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barrre, ''Métro: Abbesses / Anvers'',), . Open daily 06:00 - 23:00. This wedding cake-white church rises visibly above the northern parts of Paris. The striking building, with its towers and white onion dome (83 m high), was built in the years between 1875 and 1914 on the birthplace of La Commune, officially as an act of penitence for the sins committed during the civil war in which thousands of Communards were executed, as well as for the bloodshed of the 1870-1871 Franco-Prussian war which followed. A number of prominent businessmen put up the money, and a dizzying combination of architects worked to put together the mock Romano-Byzantine extravaganza. Consecration followed in 1919. The view over Paris from the dome and from the square before it (200 m above sea level) is unsurpassed, apart from that enjoyed at the Eiffel Tower (50 km on a clear day). For the athletic there are stairs from several directions to the top of the hill; otherwise there is also a funicular which runs every few minutes during the daytime from Place St. Pierre. Follow the signs that say "Funiculaire De Montmartre" (more info ). *Be warned: along the lower steps leading up to church, groups of mostly young men gather and reach toward you with a small string, offering to loop it round your finger. Attempts to brush them off will often be met by claims of "No, this is for the church." They will then demand money for the bracelet they make for you, offering it "at a discount" of up to €20. Admission charge; located at the summit of the hill.
- Cimetière de Montmartre (Montmartre Cemetery), rue de la Barrière Blanch (Métro: Place de Clichy). There are a number of famous occupants, but the real reason to visit this cemetery is to see the ornate tombstones, sculptures, and other sometimes macabre, sometimes touching memorials Parisians have left here for their dead.
- Le Moulin Rouge, 82 boulevard de Clichy (Métro: Blanche), ☎ +33 1 53 09 82 82, . This famous Parisian cabaret proposes you his incredible “Féerie show” four times a day. It's not cheap: the 21:00 show costs €95 and the 23:00 show costs 89..
Paris is living the revolution and the creation of the Eiffel Tower, the inauguration of the Sacré-Cœur basilica, the first cinematographic projections … During this area, the bourgeois and the workers eat at the same table listening to Aristide Bruant songs in the Butte Montmartre district. The Moulin Rouge is one of the first cabaret, which opened on October 6th, 1889. Founded by Joseph Oller and Charles Zidler, it hosts musicians, dancers, and become a temple of the Music Hall. With the apparition of the French Cancan and of the “quadrille”, the Moulin Rouge continues to attract many people who come to admire these beautiful young ladies whirling. Toulouse-Lautrec will transform these girls and especially the Goulue into his muses. The cabaret become a must-see place, hosts the famous Mistinguett dancer and the Parisian worldlinesses. During the war, Paris lost its levity and the Moulin Rouge will reopen in 1951. The famous cabaret will launch back its activity and host a new generation of artists as Salvador Dali, Ella Fitzergald and Ray Charles, or recently Elton Joh and Georges Michael.
Today, the Moulin rouge proposes its “Féerie show” into different formulas: dinner-show, show, morning show or lunch-show. The show reunites 80 artists including 60 Doriss Girls, the famous’s dancers dressed in 1 000 costumes of feather, sequins and rhinestones.
The scenography features an extravagant setting by artists from around the world, a giant aquarium and music composed by 80 musicians and 60 singers. You can book your seats directly on the website of the Moulin Rouge or with PARISCityVISION, which allows you to see the show and visit Paris.
Practical informations :
- It is forbidden to take pictures, to film and to record the show and to take pictures of the cabaret.
- Children accepted from 6 years.
- City attire required. Jacket and tie appreciated. Shorts, bermudas, outfits and sports shoes prohibited.
- Cloakroom available
- Gift shop
- Place Pigalle. On the border with the 9th, The sleaze of Blvd. de Clichy between Pl. Pigalle and Pl. Blanche can provide a moment of distraction. Be warned if you are male it is better to do this in the company of a female fellow traveller, as the clubs often send the girls outside to attempt to physically drag passing men off of the street. These strip clubs are big ripoffs. They tempt you with a free drink for €10 entry; once in the girl who starts dancing orders a couple of drinks (Red Bull) and then before you realise you are presented with a bill ranging from €500 to €700. They have these big bouncers who threaten/manhandle you till you arrive at some settlement with them. The whole of Pigalle is a rip off, and is best avoided. The police know about these places but nothing is done.
- Artists' Square, place du Tertre. Numerous artists paint portraits of tourists and also sell their paintings.
Map of the 18th Arrondissement
Museums and galleries
- Espace Dali, 11 rue Poulbot (place du Tertre) (Métro: Anvers, Abbesses, Bus 54, 80, Montmartrobus, Funiculaire - depart from métro Anvers), ☎ +33 1 42 64 40 10 (fax: +33 1 42 64 93 17), . Sep-Jun: 10:00-18:00 daily; Jul-Aug: 10:00-20:00 daily. Guided tours 15:00. A fantastic and undeservedly little-known collection of the great Surrealist artist's often overlooked sculptural works. Those seeking a more authentic experience should be warned that the majority of works here are reproductions, and that this "museum" is more appropriately considered as a for-profit, tourist-oriented homage to the artist rather than a carefully curated collection of original work. To find it, head up to Sacré-Cœur and stand facing it and take a left. Keep your eye out for small Dali signs. Admission €11 adults, €7 seniors 60+, €6 children and students under 26, free for children under 8.
- Musée de Montmarte, 12-14 Rue Cortot, 75018 (Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt. Situated half-way between the Sacré coeur church and the vineyards.), ☎ +33 1 49 25 89 37 ([email protected], fax: +33 (0) 1 46 66 30 75), . All year, every day: 10:00-18:00. A hidden gem about the artists of Montmartre. This old farm-house hosted many painters -from Renoir to Suzanne Valladon and others. Today it hosts many iconic paintings and posters of Montmartre and its cabaret culture -le chat noir, Aristide Bruant, posters by Toulouse-Lautrec etc. Worth a visit for the art collection but more importantly for the cadre - the quiet courtyard and fruit trees staring at Sacré coeur, and the back garden overlooking the vineyards. Admission €9 adults, Students 18-25 €7, Adolescents 10-17 €5, children under 10 free, handicap €7, €5 children and students under 26, free for children under 8, year pass €20.
The best way to enjoy Montmartre is to just poke your nose around any street corner and start investigating. Finding things to do shouldn't be your main goal, it should be an addition to the already present good atmospehere of the district.
- Cooking with Class (13), 21 rue custine, . Cooking Class. Hands on French cooking classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including; Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre.
- Môm'artre, 44 rue Joseph de Maistre, ☎ +33 1 42 28 82 27, . An arts centre intended primarily for children (Môme translates as kid) the Môm'artre features workshops for children and adults, hosted by neighbourhood artists.
- Free Walking Tour, (Métro: Blanche), ☎ +33 9 70 44 97 24, . Free walking tour linking all the best aspects of Montmartre; a great way to make your random stroll a little more organized.
- Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Clignancourt Flea Market), Porte de Clignancourt (Métro: Porte de Clignancourt), . open 07:00 Sa, Su, Mo. Widely-acclaimed as the largest flea market in all of Europe, in existence since 1885, this sprawling bazaar is made up of both permanent stalls and temporary stands (over 2,000 of them), arranged in winding, sometimes chaotic arcades, over 16 kilometres of walkways and over 10 differently-themed sub-markets. Everything from fine antiques to collectible kitsch and brig-a-brac. Big on retro fashion also. Very popular with tourists, making it more difficult here to find a real bargain - but it's always worth looking. Convenient, competitive shipping is available at the market to send your precious finds back home all over the world. Be prepared to bargain!
- Ouistitipop, 19 rue Ramey (Métro: Chateau Rouge), ☎ +33 1 42 58 03 54, . Tu-Sa 10:00 to 18:00. New and used childrens' clothing, toys, push-chairs and furniture.
- Thibault van der Straete, 30, rue Durantin, ☎ 01 42 54 83 32. Boutique with clothes made of alpaca wool. His mens and womens designs are popular with people who like ethno-chic.
- spree, 16, rue La Vieuville, 18th, ☎ 01 42 23 41 40. A trendy boutique with clothes from french and international designers like Isabel Marant, Carven, Cedric Charlier, Helmut Lang, Christian Wijnants, Golden Goose... Its large space also holds artist exhibitions, photo and paintings and vintage design pieces like Prouve, F Kramer, W Van Dermeeren, Tapiovara...
Be ready for some climbing in the 18th
- Nawab, 174, rue Ordener (Métro: Guy Môquet), ☎ +33 1-46-27-85-28, . every day from noon to 14:00 and 19:00 to 23:00. This Indian and Pakistani restaurant is usually packed especially for lunch so be sure to call ahead and reserve a table. €15.
- Le Surcouf, 36, Avenue de Saint Ouen (Metro: La Fourche), ☎ +33 1-46-27-11-85. Very ordinary non-touristy cafe run by family from the Maghreb. "French" food is pricey for what you get, but the couscous dishes are huge, cheap and delicious with a home-cooked feel to them. There's a friendly dog who hangs around the bar. €10.
- le Square Marcadet
- La Petaudiere, rue Poulbot. Piano bar on rue Poulbot - tasty food, nice ambience and excellent good piano music (prepare some coins for the pianist).
- Le Buffet, 18 Rue des Trois Freres. unpredictable. Tasty, homey French food. Lunch menu is around €12 is available until 20:00.
- Au Grain de Folie, 24 Rue de la Vieuville, ☎ +33 1 42 58 15 57. unpredictable. A one-woman operation with some mixed reviews, but apparently when she gets it right it's very good. Booking ahead by 24 hours is advisable.
- La Taverne de Montmartre, 25 rue Gabrielle, 75018, ☎ +33 1 46 06 88 48. Small restaurant with a nice rustic decoration, just bellow the artists' square, place du Tertre. Relaxing place, not overloaded with tourists. Excellent foundue costs €17 per person including a salami salad for starters.
- Le Refuge des Fondues, 17 rue des Trois Frères, 75018, ☎ +33 1 42 55 22 65. Fondue restaurant for young people: menu for €17, including wine served in a baby bottle, appetizers, the foundue and dessert.
- La Popote du 18, 184 rue Marcadet, 75018, ☎ +33 1 42 64 08 33, . Typical French restaurant, with a modern twist and delicious food. Particulary great for brunch.
- Cafe des Deux Moulins, 15 rue Lepic, 75018. A popular destination for those who love the film Le fabuleaux destin d'Amelie Poulain, yet some locals still come here. Interior preserves the movie set. Good for lunch.
- Le Basilic, 33 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, ☎ +33 01 46 06 78 43 (fax: +33 01 46 06 39 26), . Very nice atmosphere squat and service. Good food and good selection of wines. Starters €7-11€, main courses €15-26€.
- Ma Cocotte, 106 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint Ouen, ☎ +33 1 49 51 70 00. Located at the entrance of Marché Paul Bert and Serpette of Paris Saint Ouen Flea Market, this recently opened restaurant designed by Philippe Starck serves classic french cuisine in a spacious, modern and lively setting. A la carte for 30€-40€.
- Truc Café, 58, rue de Poteau, ☎ 101 42 52 64 09. A classic French wine bistro filled with young trendy singles.
- Just BE, 46 rue Caulaincourt (Métro: Abesses), ☎ +33 1 42 55 92 42, . A trendy little bistro with a nice enclosed terrace, the Just BE (named for owners Brigette and Elsa) is a nice place to settle in for a couple of hours to watch people pass by on the lovely tree-lined rue Caulaincourt.
- Olympic Café, 20 rue Léon (Métro: Chateau Rouge), ☎ +33 1 42 52 42 63, . Run as part of the Laboratoire Multi-culturel populaire the Olympic Café is one of the few places in Paris where you can reliably find avant-garde jazz, making it at least spiritually a descendant of the club where the Art Ensemble of Chicago were resident for 5 years or so in the early '70s. In addition to jazz they book music from around the world especially Africa and the Caribbean.
- Le Divan du Monde, 75 rue des Martyrs (Métro: Pigalle), ☎ +33 1 42 52 02 46, . A fairly major venue for indi-rock, hip-hop, and other concerts. The prices are usually pretty good and the size of the venue and decor are great.
- La Boule Noire, 120 Boulevard Rochechouart (Métro: Pigaille), ☎ +33 1 49 25 81 75, . A small venue which is decorated to resemble a 20s speakeasy but which none-the-less has hosted a range of musicians from local singers to major arena acts.
- Hôtel Bonséjour, 11 rue Burq (Metro: Abbesses or Blanche), ☎ +33 1 42 54 22 53, . checkout: noon. Has 34 spartan but immaculately cleaned rooms on 5 floors. Internet terminals and wifi available. Singles with no shower start at €33, or €66 with a shower. The shared shower downstairs costs €2..
- Plug-Inn Hostel, 7 rue Aristide Bruant (Métro: Blanche), ☎ +33 1 42 58 42 58, . A small, inexpensive, clean and well-located hostel. Free wifi, but the signal is weak in the rooms. Free breakfast.
- Hotel Sofia, 21 rue de Sofia (Metro: Barbès-Rochechouart), ☎ +33 1 42 64 55 37 ([email protected], fax: +33 1 46 06 33 30), . checkin: 14:00; checkout: 11:00. The rooms are simple and comfortable, and the street is a quiet one for Montmartre. All rooms have a shower. Free WiFi internet available. Singles start at €50, plus €3 if you want to watch TV. Breakfast is €7.
- Grand Hôtel de Clermont, 18 Rue Veron 75018 Pari (Metro: Abbesses), ☎ +33 (0)1 46 06 40 99 ([email protected]), . Charming hotel in the center of Montmartre with budget rooms. Free WiFi internet available. From €50, plus.
- Adagio Paris Montmartre, Place du Théatre de l’Atelier, ☎ +33 1 58 21 55 84, . This "Aparthotel" opens out onto a peaceful interior garden.
- Hotel des Arts, 5, rue Tholozé (Métro: Blanche), ☎ +33 1 46 06 30 52. Consistently getting the high reviews in its price-range, this well-located hotel was renovated in 2000. The rooms upstairs have fantastic views, but there are some reports over problems due to over-booking. Singles start at €75..
- Le Chat Noir, 68 Boulevard De Clichy, ☎ +33 1 42 64 15 26, . This former cabaret and now boutique hotel combines the bohemian spirit of Montmartre with a modern and cool aesthetic.
- Hotel Damremont, 110, rue Damremont 75018 Paris, ☎ +33 (0)1 42 64 25 75, . Located close to Butte Montmartre in a quiet residential quarter. From €89..
- Hotel Eden Montmartre, 90, rue Ordener (Métro: Jules Joffrin), ☎ +33 1 42 64 61 63. A basic, nice two-star hotel located on the far side of the hill of Montmartre from the city, which can be a good thing if you are looking for a more authentic view of Parisiene life. Singles start at €85..
- Ibis Montmartre, 1 rue Caulaincourt (Métro: Place de Clichy), ☎ +33 1 55 30 18 18, . The rooms are a little small, but this offering of the Ibis chain is up to the usual high standard of cleanliness and service. Reception is staffed around the clock for late arrivals. Ibis always prices their offering a few Euro cheaper than the cheapest independent two-star in the area, in this case €72 for a single..
- Timhotel Montmartre, 11, rue Ravignan (Metro: Abesses), ☎ +33 1 42 55 74 79, . This cute, well kept two-star hotel is closer to a three-star in quality and price, it's just that the rooms are on the small side. Some of the rooms in the upper floors have fantastic views of the city... Singles start at €130..
- Hotel de Bellevue***67 rue Philippe de Girard (Métro: La Chapelle), ☎ +33 01 46 07 97 25 ([email protected], fax: 0146079758), . , Convivial and friendly, the Hotel de Bellevue Paris Gare du Nord is in the legendary Montmartre and Gare du Nord district, 10 minutes from the Stade de France, 30 minutes from the Parc des Expositions de Villepinte (Exhibition Centre), 30 minutes from Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport by the RER B train, near department stores, the Grands Boulevards and the Grévin Museum. A free Wi-Fi connection is available throughout the hotel. Lift, Luggage room, non-smoking hotel, Safe deposit box, Laundry, Newspapers, fax/photocopies, Shuttle service (charges apply), Vending machine (drinks and snacks), External telephone line, parking by reservation, hair dryer.Reception 24 hour, Reservations for shows, taxis, restaurants.. 85-215€.
- Kube Hotel, 1-5 Passage Ruelle Paris, ☎ +33(0)1 42 05 2000, . One of the most stylish and atmospheric hotels in all of hotels, the Kube hotel exudes a high tech and luxurious decor. All the rooms come equipped with individual air-conditioning, digital door opening, multifunction computer (DVD, CD, TV screen), cable TV, ADSL Internet connection, deposit box, mini bar, and fully equipped bathroom. As its name might suggest, the rooms feature some sort of cubism design and even the bedside tables look like ice cubes. Go out at night in your very own hotel, with a DJ spinning in the bar nightly, as well as being Paris's first ever ice bar. (48.8864905440121,2.3588204383850097)
- Terrass Hotel, 12 rue Joseph-de-Maistre (Metro: Place de Clichy), ☎ +33 1.46.06.72.85 ([email protected], fax: +33 18.104.22.168.30), . Excellent four star hotel in Montmartre with 98 rooms, en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, good restaurant, business facilities. The roof-top restaurant with fantastic views of Paris is open May to September. €280-410. (48.88661,2.33284)
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