Pangmapha

Pangmapha (ปางมะผ้า) is an amphur (district) located in Mae Hong Son Province. Located within Pangmapha District is Tambon (sub-district) Soppong (สบป่อง), a small village with a predominantly ethnic Shan and hill tribe population. Pangmapha district and Soppong subdistrict (Tambon) and village are located between Pai and Mae Hong Son town - 45 km from Pai and 75 km from Mae Hong Son town. Compared to Pai, Pangmapha is less touristy and has a more traditional feel, as Pai has undergone a significant transformation due to the major expansion of tourism there.

Understand

Pangmapha is a district (amphur) in northwestern Mae Hong Son province, along the border with Burma. Better known is Soppong, a sub-district and small village located in a river valley in Pangmapha District. Pangmapha and Soppong are not the same, as Pangmapha is the name of the district in which the sub-district and village of Soppong is located. Soppong is on the main road, between Pai and Mae Hong Son on the Mae Hong Son loop. Soppong is a trading and market centre for the many hill tribe villages that populate the area. There is a total of about 350 homes in the whole village area. The population is about 40% hill tribe (mostly Karen, Lisu and Lahu), 40% Burmese Shan, 20% Thai, as well as few Haw Chinese Muslim families.

Pangmapha does not presently attract many tourists, in contrast to Pai, located 45 kilometres away, which has become crowded with tourists and now contains more than 300 guest houses and hotels. There are several guest houses, resorts and restaurants in Pangmapha, but very few tourist-oriented businesses and shops, thus lending a genuine traditional feel to the area. The area offers outstanding trekking in the surrounding mountains, caves, rivers, and jungle.

Get in

Minibuses depart from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station throughout the day. The rate is 250 baht, they are air-conditioned, and the journey takes 4-5 hours. To take the minibus to Pangmapha district, purchase a ticket to Mae Hong Son and tell the driver you wish to get off in Soppong. Tickets can be booked and purchased in advance by phone or website (see below). The minibus will make a comfort and eating stop about an ninety minute on the way after leaving Chiang Mai.

The schedule for the two options is as follows:

Mini-bus: 06:30/07:30/08:30/09:30/10:30/11:30/12:30/13:30/14:30

Operator: Prempracha Transport

Get around

Motorbike rentals for 250 baht per day are available at the Castrol Bike Point Shop. There is a fleet of motorbike taxi drivers located right in front of the market, and they have established, set fares to most locations. There is a noticeboard with prices for each journey.The same fares apply to locals and visitors.

As of 2014, the fare to Tham Lot cave, a trip of 10 km, is 70 baht, one-way.

See

Tham Lod (or Lot) aka Coffin Cave

• Tham Lod (Coffin Cave). Features the largest cave opening in SE Asia with a river passing through. When you get to the exit at sunset (18:00) you can see hundred thousands of swifts returning to the cave, followed by equal numbers of bats exiting for the night, a spectacular view! You don't have to pay for that (yet), just walk outside to the exit (12 minutes). Bring a flashlight for the walk back! Also, Phi Man cave contains many stone age coffins inside the cave. The cave that can be explored with local guides (1-3 persons, 150 baht) on bamboo rafts (1-3 persons 300 baht). At the exit you can walk back (12 minutes), or you can book the return trip for 400 baht.  edit

• The area also features some of the best tropical forests in northern Thailand with many day walks possible to explore the jungle, do some birdwatching, and see dozens of varieties of wild orchids.

• Many hill tribe villages are located in the area, including ethnic Lisu, Red and Black Lahu, Karen, and Hmong. Many can be reached on foot from the main village of Soppong.

• A travelling market is set up every Tuesday morning along the road in the main market area, with hill tribe people coming down from the mountains to sell their produce and wares.

Do

• Flying Turtle Organic Farm, Soppong-Tham Lot Rd (1.5 km towards Tham Lot. Driveway is just before the Chinese temple on the right.), ☎ +66 89 4857596, [1]. 09:00-15:30. This organic farm grows herbs, vegetables and fruit.  edit

If you rent a motorcycle in Soppong/ Pangmapha the Mae Lanna loop is kinda fun. Drive towards Mae Hong Son about 10 km and turn right on the road to Mae Lanna. After 4 km, take the right fork to the village of Mae Lanna. Here there is a nice Guest House, the Mae Lanna GH, set in large gardens. Driving on, you turn left, initially on a paved road that turns to dirt after a few km. The road climbs and after 3-4 km then look for a right hand turn that follows along the ridge.This road is a bit hairy, not for the novice driver. After 6-8 km you arrive back turning right onto a decent paved road. This descends through rolling hills and farmland to the village of Tham Lod (the caves).

Events

There is an ultrarunning event, the Thailand Ultramarathon (TU50 and TU100) [7] held in Ban Tham, 8kms from Soppong in October or November each year. Runners and walkers can choose to complete a beautiful, but very challenging 50 or 100km off road mountain trail.

Buy

The hill tribe people set up in most public areas, and are eager to sell their crafts. Tuesday is market day, and one can find a colourful display of hill tribe people selling their wares up and down the main road and near the market.

Eat

• Jungle House, (300 m north of the bus station on the left side of the road). Restaurant attached to the Jungle Guest House providing home-cooked Thai meals and bread baked by Da on the premises. Shakes and hot tea available to sip on the deck while overlooking the garden.  edit

• Seven Elephants Café, 358 Moo 1, Soppong (500 m from the market, on the right in the direction of Mae Hong Son), [2]. 07:00-20:00. Located at Soppong River Inn, the Seven Elephants Café includes an espresso bar, special cocktails, and a wine list. The menu features Western, SE Asian, and local Shan specialties. Dining is available inside the café or outside in the tropical gardens.  edit

Drink

Most of the accommodations in Soppong have a restaurant that includes bar service, such as at LIttle Eden Guesthouse and Soppong River Inn. You can also buy beer and whiskey in any of Soppong's restaurants. There are several small stands along the main street that serve drinks cheaply, by the glass or bottle.

Sleep

• Cave Lodge, (located in Tham Lot village, approximately 10 km from the Soppong bus stop, with transportation available via motorcycle taxi. In the middle of the forest, close to Tham Lot cave.), [3]. In addition to rooms, offers numerous caving tours to surrounding caves, at a variety of skill levels. Their most popular tour costs 600 baht/person and visits 3 remote caves. In addition, Cave Lodge offers kayaking through Tham Lot and through the following rapids for 600 or 850 baht depending if it is dry or wet season. Kayaking can be combined with cave tours in Tham Lot. Basic dorms start at 100 baht a night, with private bungalows also available..  edit

• Soppong River Inn, [4]. Offering unique, natural accommodations in tropical gardens along the Lang River with a multi-level teak deck overhanging the river. Rooms and cottages range from standard to luxury with air conditioning at 700-2,450 baht per night..  edit
• Pencave Homestay (Tham Lod village), 143 Moo 1, ☎ +66(0)87-1754384, [5]. Pen, the owner, is a local from Ban Tham Lod who has a few bungalows in lovely and picturesque grounds. Her bungalows are very close to Tham Lod cave. She grows veggies and beans in her garden. She's knowledgeable about the area and can recommend several caves, treks, and villages to explore on your own. You can also hire her as a guide to the less accessible and less well-known caves in the area. 400-600 baht per night.  edit
• Kanlaya's Eyrie (Kanlaya's), Ban Tham, Pang Ma Pha, Mae Hong Son Province (about 8km from Pang Ma Pha, in Ban Tham Village.), ☎ (+66) 53 617 261 ([email protected]), [6]. Luxury high end accommodation in private villa, two five star guest suites, secret courtyard, sala, extensive balconies, Jacuzzi with stunning views, enchanting garden. Eco-chic in the jungle, solar heated hot water, 10,000 baht exclusive use. Also comfortable home stay in stone built Old House, 750 baht. Local Tribal and Thai cuisine, all activities arranged and our own mountain top tribal rice hut for breath-taking sunrise and breakfast.  edit
• Baan Lek Guest House, 432/1 Soppong, Pangmapha (250m towards Pai from the Bus Station), ☎ 089-485-7596. checkout: 11.00am. A tiny guest house in downtown Soppong, featuring 2 rooms. the downstairs one is stone, and upstairs is bamboo, with an outdoor porch under a roof. This is a cooler place to sit in the heat of the afternoon. There are many plants- coffee plants, aloe and the local varieties. The family is friendly and speaks good English. 350 bt.  edit

Get out