Osh

Osh is a city in the Ferghana Valley of Kyrgyzstan.

Understand

Osh is the cultural capital of Kyrgyzstan. A vibrant underground arts scene has earned it the moniker of "The Berlin of Central Asia".

The Facebook page "Visit Osh" can help you get a taste of Osh City, along with beautiful exclusive pictures of the city.

Get in

By plane

There are several flights a day from Bishkek and back. It costs from 30 to 50 euro. S7 Airlines (Siberia Airlines) operate almost daily flights to Moscow. Turkish Airlines also fly directly from Istanbul to Bishkek as well as Osh. The Osh airport is not exactly a modern one; luggage is piled into trucks and you have to wait and grab your luggage when you see it. There is a lot of shoving and pushing, as everyone seems to be in a hurry. For EU and USA travelers no visa is needed!

By bus

There are two weekly sleeper buses (Mon and Fri) from Kashgar in China leaving at 10:00 (Beijing time) and the tri p takes about 18 hours. The price is ¥570 and the buses depart from Kashgar International Bus Station. As the road through Irkeshtam is at high altitude, remember to take warm clothes on the bus even during summer. Sit on the left for better views.

Regularly scheduled marshtkas to the north (Jalal-Abad, Toktogul, etc) and west (Batken, Isfana, etc) leave from New Bus Station located in the northern skirt of the city. City bus run between terminal and centre.

To Khujand (Khodjend), Tajikistan, take a marshtka to Batken and change to Isfara, crossing the border, and then to Khujand, total travel time is approx. 8 hours. As of 2017, Batken bound marshtka takes new highway that by-pass Uzbek enclaves, that reduced travel time to four hours. Marshtka from Batken to Isfara is infrequent at 8:30, 11:30, 13:15, 14:30; shared taxis await at the bus terminal but reportedly some tourists were left at the border.

By Car

Prices of shared taxis from Bishkek to Osh vary quite a lot. In spring, when seasonal workers are travelling from Osh to capital and then to Kazakhstan or Russia, it will cost less, and vice versa in autumn. Price of shared taxi Bishkek-Osh is 1000-1500 som per person (May 2012). Taxi to Bishkek park on Zainabetdinova street. Other good option is 500-700 som per person for a place in cargo-passenger minivan. It's actually much more comfortable than shared taxi because it has sleeping bunks. It takes some time to get to the center (in Osh cargo vans start from KaraSu market (30 som from the center) in Bishkek from DorDoi market (12 som from the center)). These vans take just 2-3 hours more than shared taxis and always run overnight, starting 3-6 pm. Unfortunately, you will miss the great view on the Bishkek-Osh road in this way.

Place in a shared taxi to Murghab is 1500 soms (May 2015), in Russian jeep or normal jeep, though the last one is much more comfortable. Drivers like to overcharge tourists, but remember, they badly need passengers, and finally will agree to regular price. You don't have to pay extra for reasonably sized backpack or for a good seat (just be the first passenger to reserve one). But driver might ask you extra money if you would like to stop on the way for taking photos. Anyway, don't pay over 2000 soms. Jeeps to Murghab depart from Alay Baza few km outside the city by marshrutka 305. There is also a basic hotel there at 200 som pp. There are very few jeeps every day, some days no any. No fixed schedule, all depends on demand. When they get enough passengers, they would leave. You could come to the stand about afternoon, exchange phone numbers with few drivers and later join one, who will be leaving first. There is no public transportation directly to Khorog, you have to change in Murghab.

To Sary Tash place in a shared taxi is 400-500 soms (Sep 2014.) But they could wait for passengers quite a long time, so better option is just head to the highway (for example take marshrutka to Karatai or Gulcha from the old bus station) and hitch marshrutkas or private cars passing by. Trucks could be very cheap (free-200 soms) but quite slow. Car makes it in 3 hours, truck could take from 5-6 hours up. In Sary Tash usually there are a lot of trucks to Irkeshtam pass (daytime on workdays, 100 soms should be enough) but very very few extra transport on Pamir highway, and direct transport from Osh to Murghab could be full.

From Khujund, Tajikistan it is possible to travel to Osh in a day, through Uzbekistan by the following route. Firstly take a shared taxi to the border at Konibodom. This border is open to pedestrians but is very slow so journeys should be started as early as possible. After crossing the border into Uzbekistan (ensure you have a valid visa) an unofficial marshutka goes to Beshariq. From Beshariq it is possible to take a shared taxi either to Kokand or Andijon. If not take a taxi from Kokand bazaar to Andijon. From Andijon it is possible to take a taxi from the bus station to the Osh border. This border which allegedly closes at 1830 has taxis waiting on the far side to complete the journey to Osh (expect to pay $5 for this final leg).

By Bike

During the way from Bishkek, the road reaches 3600 above sea level. In the pass there is a 2 km long tunnel, therefore be careful, or try to hitch big care in front and get off after that.

See

The city has several monuments, including one to the southern Kyrgyz "queen" Kurmanjan Datka and one of the few remaining statues of Lenin. A Russian Orthodox church, reopened after the demise of the Soviet Union, the largest mosque in the country (situated beside the bazaar), and the 16th-century Rabat Abdul Khan Mosque can be found here.

Overlooking Osh on top of Sulaiman-Too Mountain

• Sulamain-Too Sacred Mountain. A mountain looming over the city full of ancient sites of worship, some still in use, dating back several millennia. It is considered the most complete example of a Central Asian sacred mountain, and accordingly has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's also just a good place to have a hike and take in the views.A cave in the mountain is the site of a museum containing a collection of archaeological, geological and historical finds and information about local flora and fauna. 20 som.  edit

Colourful bazaar, open 7/7, biggest on Sundays, smallest on Mondays.

Do

In the city center there is a 3 story Yurt. It takes about 10 minutes to go around and costs about 50KGS (less than $1). For the money it is great value and very interesting to see. You can also say for the rest of your life that you have been in a 3 story Yurt.

Use the city as a springboard to explore more remote locations in the surrounding areas, i.e. trekking and horse riding in the Alay mountains, plains.

Buy

• The Bazar, (In the north of the town on both sides of the river). A very large market/bazar with plenty of different things for sale. If you are planning to buy souvenirs, do that here. And do not forget to negotiate.  edit

Eat

• Nirvana Restaurant. Short taxi ride outside of city center; European and local cuisine; good shashlyk, steak, chicken and beef burritos. Indoor and outdoor dining areas, with toys for kiddies. Good service, clean. They brew their own beer, the vats are visible from the dining room in a large area next door.  edit

There are many good restaurants in Osh, most of them cheap but good. Some are Muslim, you won't get alcoholic drinks there, others sell all the usual drinks. Kyrgyz beer is very good, and the vodka should be tried also, take an expensive one, and eat something with it. Expensive vodka is still ridiculously cheap for us. Cheap vodka will give you the worst headache you ever experienced! The food is good, local as well as Western dishes. Many good salads, lots of meat. If possible, try the plov, the national dish.

• Osh Ordo, Aravanskaya area (downtown, beneath the Suleiman mountain). This place offers a great view to the Suleiman mountain, especially from its open-air terrace. The kitchen is at the level of other premium restaurants. Price is average, democratic in a sense. Lagman is recommended. average.  edit

Drink

People mostly drink green or black tea. This is drunk out of a small bowl. People usually pour a little into the bowl to clean it before filling up the bowl. Tea is drunk with every meal, that did not stop me from having a beer on the side!

Sleep

• Osh Guesthouse, ... 3rd entrance, apt. 48. (A bit difficult to find. It is situated in the block between Zainabetdinova and Kara-Suu Street. Coming from Masalieva Street you will see a sign with text 'Osh Guesthouse'. Try to ask the locals or the taxi drivers for directions, or use GPS coordinates 40.545938, 72.799956.). checkout: 12:00. A nice, basic and friendly hostel in a normal Osh flat. There are two 4 bed dorms, a double room and a kitchen. The hostel only has one bathroom so you might have to wait a while to get your morning shower. Free WiFi. Small breakfast included. Laundry service (for 60 som/kg) is available. English and German is spoken. Closed in winter> Dorm 450 som (May 2015), double 560 som, single 790 som.  edit

• Stari Gorad Hotel, (Next to the New Mosque. Cross zainabetdinova street. First street on your right. First gate on your right. No sign. Entrance in a courtyard.). checkout: 12:00. No dorm. Clean place, only private bathrooms, kitchen available. A nice woman runs the place. She speaks english. Double room 300 som/pp.  edit

• Biy Ordo Hostel ((Pronounced bee ordo)), [email protected] (it is in the NW corner of Osh. Start on the main north- south road, east of the city.( Razzakov street.) Look for blue and yellow building, maybe six stories tall. Can't miss it. Turn west just north of small park, go one block and turn right. Go 200 yards north past big houses and Biy Ordo is on your left.), ☎ 996-556008989, [1]. checkin: 12:00. Wifi, small hot breakfast, refrigerator in room with private western bathroom, laundry service. 500 som for a dorm room, 2000 som for a private double per room. Host speaks good English. Very warm and friendly. Dorm closed in winter, other rooms still available. 500-2000 KGS (10-40 USD).  edit
• Taj Mahal hotel. The Taj Mahal hotel is located near the Osh guesthouse, directly North of the main mosque, and it also offers dorm accommodations for the same price, although they will almost certainly try to sell you a private room. You'll probably be directed there if the Osh guesthouse is full. It is much quieter than the Osh guesthouse, but has no kitchen and is a much worse place for meeting other travelers or getting local information (they guys at the Osh guesthouse are really quite interesting to talk to). But beware, money has been stolen from rooms here - stay at your own risk.  edit
• KONOK hostel, K-Datka262/5, ☎ +99658382777, [2]. checkin: 12:00; checkout: 10:00. This newly open hostel is located 5 minutes walk from bazaar on Kurmanjan-Datka street 211 (difficult to see this; near osh market ) in a predominantly business and university district of the city (great location). At the moment it has just one 11-bed dorm. WiFI, self-service kitchen, laundry service are available. Western toilet is kept clean. Shower has a water heater, though you have to wait around half an hour till it gets hot. Owner Meri is really helpful and lovely, and though she has hearing disability you can easily discuss by writing or Speech to Text software. Call ahead or you'll never find the apartment and Meri may not be there.  edit
• Bayana Guesthouse (гостиница Баяна), 286 Lenina Street, Osh (Opp. Military Hospital, about 1km down from the Lenin statue toward Sulamain-Too on the right), ☎ +996779777707, [3]. checkout: 12. Email contact: [email protected] . Central location. English speaking. 12 rooms ranging from $5 dorms, $18 twin or double rooms, $30- $40 delux suites. All rooms come with ensuite, TV and climate control. This family run guesthouse is comfortable and professional. Services available include: 24 hour desk; home cooked breakfast; laundry services; car services from the airport or to the mountains; Free wifi. $5 - $40.  edit
• Konok Remi, kokum biy. checkin: 12^00; checkout: 10:00. Konok- Remi resort–comfortable, cozy B/B in an ecologically pure part of Osh city with a wonderful view to the mountain and the best swimming pool with the spring water. There are 7comfortably furnished rooms with 1-2-3 sleeping beds for a good rest 8.  edit
• KonokRemi, Kokum Biy, ☎ +996772345546,, [4]. checkin: 12;00; checkout: 10;00. Konok- Remi resort–comfortable, cozy B/B in an ecologically pure part of Osh city with a wonderful view to the mountain and the best swimming pool with the spring water. There are 7comfortably furnished rooms with 1-2-3 sleeping beds for a good rest 8$.  edit

Contact

Talant Toksonbaev Speaking English coordinator Tourist Information Center mob: + 996 555 077621

Get out

On most days there will be a shared van to Sary Tash and occasional transport to Murghab. You will pay the full fare to Murghab even if you want an intermediate destination.

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