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Nong Khiaw

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Nong Khiaw (Nong Kiau or Nong Kiew) is a beautiful rustic little town on the bank of the Ou River in Laos. It is squeezed in between some of the most fantastic limestone mountains north of Vang Vieng.

Many travellers pass through on the way up river to the even more isolated Muang Ngoi, but Nong Khiaw has a plenty of charm, a decent range of accommodation, plus conveniences such as 24 hour electricity and a connection to the road network for those interested in exploring the surrounding area.

Atm are now in town since 2016. At March 2018, there is a bank in the town where you can exchange money.

Get in[edit]

Buses from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw. It costs 40.000 or 50.000 Kips, and takes around 4h. One tourist bus at ~9am from the southern bus station for 50.000, two local buses at ~11am and ~2pm from the northern station for 40.000. A daily minibus departs at 9:30am from the minibus terminal opposite the Southern bus station. This costs 55.000 Kip per person when booked directly with the station or 65.000 Kip per person, including hotel pick-up, when booked through a local tour agency.

Buses from Udomxay to Nong Khiaw (3-4 hours) are scheduled 1 time daily if there are enough passengers, but may not run on time or at all, during the low season (depending on passenger numbers). It is possible to negotiate a fare on either the Vang Vieng or Luang Prabang bound bus and disembark at Pak Mong (where the highway turns south). From here a tuk tuk will take you the last hour or so to Nong Khiaw for around 30.000 kip per person.

There was a boat service operating between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw but it is no longer operating due to the construction of a dam which means buses can get through instead. So don't get confused by other blogs saying there is a boat.

Get out[edit]

Nong Khiaw bus station : The bus/minivan station in Nong Khiaw is on the edge of town on the western side of the river. Agencies/Guesthouses also offer busrides to many destinations. There are also sleeping buses options to Vientiane and Phonsavan.

Buses from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang run daily at around 09:00 & 11:00. The price is 40.000 kip when purchased directly from the bus station. It takes 4 hrs.

Non A/C minivans or songteaw from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang (northern station) leave at 8:30, 10:00, 11:00 (this bus starts at Muang Ngoi and can fill up fast) and costs 37.000 kip per person (as of Feb 2016). Go to the bus station at least 45 minutes before departure to buy your ticket. A/C minivans leave at 13:30 for Luang Prabang (southern station) and costs 50.000 kip. Best to pre-book this bus before 11:30 (as of Feb 2016). However as of Oct 2019 - the bus didn’t leave until 2.30pm and too appeared doubtful as there were only 2 passengers. They were waiting for more and no one else turned up. Overall - these AC mini vans are unreliable and won’t go on time. Also the AC mini van didn’t have the AC turned on - so it’s pointless getting this mini van.

Private minivan to Luang Prabang can cost as low as 500.000 kip. especially if drivers have empty returns.

Buses from Nong Khiaw to Udomxay run daily at around 09:00 & 11:00 if there are enough passengers to make the trip. Price is 45.000 kip, and it takes around 4 hrs.

Buses from Nong Khiaw to Luang Namtha: first take the bus to Udomxay and then catch a bus from there to Luang Namtha. This gives you a quite late arrival in Luang Namtha. It costs 40,000 kip to Udomxay.

Buses from Nong Khiaw to Muang Khua or Phongsali: first go to Udomxay (11:00), then change bus to Muang Khua.

Buses from Nong Khiaw to Vieng Thong and Sam Neua (near Viengxay and Vietnam border): the bus starts originally from Luang Prabang. They don't stop at Nong khiaw bus station. You can get the bus west side the bridge. Time: 12.30pm(mini van from Luang Prabang. This bus stops at Pakmong), 7.00pm(Bus from Luang Prabang), 9.00pm(mini van from Vientien). It takes 8 hours to Sam Neua.

Buses hardly ever run on time. Buy your ticket in advance and leave your name!

Boat from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoi Neua, daily at 10:30 and 14:00, it costs 25.000 kip & takes 1 hour. It is wise to arrive at least 30 minutes early, as boarding can be somewhat chaotic.

Get around[edit]

Nong Khiaw is simple in layout and small enough to walk around. It's possible to rent a bike at the Riverside Bungalows and Delilah's to explore the 2 roads and surrounding area.

A large concrete road bridge connects Nong Khiaw on the western side of the river with the village of Ban Sop Houn on the eastern side of the river, where many of the river-view bungalows are found.

See[edit][add listing]

There are a number of tour operators in Nong Khiaw. They will bring you out for various trips, hikes, river tours, bamboo raft workshop, village stay. Some of the tours can be found online. [2]

  • Pha Tok Caves, (about 2km outside town on the far side of the river from the boat landing and bus station). This cave set high in a limestone cliff sheltered villagers and Pathet Lao fighters during the Second Indochina war. The caves are accessed via steep concrete steps, and inside a few signs identify points where command posts were stationed. Entrance fees are collected at the bottom where you can also borrow a torch. The trail to the cave passes through many rice paddies and a small section of jungle. If you ask the people at the "ticket desk", you should be able to arrange a boat ride back to Nong Khiaw from a local. For 2 people in the very small canoe type longtail boats that can seat max 2 people plus driver the price is around 50,000 kip. 5,000 kip.  edit

Be careful with "guides" who try to show you the second (there is 2 caves there) cave after you visit by yourself the first one. He will ask to you tips (50'000-80'000kip) for is help (that you don't need for sure). To see the second cave by yourself take the little pass at your left when you are at the entry of the first one.

  • Pha Kuang Cave, (3 km East on the 1C). This cave requires a little more fitness than your usual caving adventure, it is definitely something else. The cave runs about 300m into the rock and some climbing through small holes is required but it is definitely worth the adventure and the cave is quite stunning once you get inside. The owner is very friendly and knows a lot about the area. Just drive about 2 km West of town on the 1c. The associated restaurant serves good food. 10k Kip Entry Fee.  edit

Do[edit][add listing]

  • Walk around the village enjoying the village feel with great views over the Nam Ou river. There is a small temple complex in the centre of town.
  • Walk or bicycle on the dirt road behind the Riverside resort for some scenic views and nature.
  • Rated one of the best hikes in Laos is the is the 100 Waterfalls trek operated by Tiger Trail and Fair trek initiative [3] [4] Some of their treks go to the interactive culture lodge.
  • Rent a mountain bike and push eastwards to remote Khmu and Hmong villages. Since there are is a lot of going up and down it makes sense to rent a mountain bike. Across the street from Delilah's restaurant (on the main street next to the bridge) there is a small bike rental shop which rents decent mountain bikes for 30,000 kip per day (feb 2015). Riverside Guest House rents mountain bikes for 50,000 kip and city bikes for 10,000 kip.
  • Herbal steam bath or massage at Sabai Sabai (25,000kip).
  • Phadeng Peak. Take the steep trail up to the viewpoint for a wonderful 360° view on the nearby valleys. Access off the main road (look for signs or ask). It costs 20,000 kip (you can ask for a walking stick) and takes 1-1.5 hours to reach top. Fantastic sunset view but bring a torchlight to come down cause it's not very easy descending. In case you plan to do the hike in the morning, you will be able to see at the sun rising from the clouds covering the surroundings of the river each morning. Ticket checking goes from 06:00-16:00 (as of Feb 2016). Next to the bridge, there are several small beaches where tourists can enjoy the sun and cool in the Nam Ou river.
  • Swimming pool. There's a swimming pool to refresh yourself on a warm day, ore after climbing Phadeng Peak. After the bridge on the eastern side walk 1km down 1c road. (30 000kip/pers). Also some fresh juice, cocktails and coffee

Buy[edit][add listing]

The few small shops on the main street cater more for locals than tourists, and offer little more than basic necessities.

Money can be changed near the boat landing - Youth travel agency or over the Bridge at Riverside Guest House. Riverside can also offer cash advances on credit cards.

  • New Bank in Nong Khiaw. In March 2012 a new bank opened on the main street in Nong Khiaw, it offers good exchange rates., accepts Traveller's cheques and there is an ATM in front of the bank. There is also a BCEL ATM by the east end of the bridge, near the Riverside resort turnoff.  edit

Eat[edit][add listing]

  • CT Bakery, (next to the bridge on the opposite side of the river from the bus station and boat landing). offers fine views from its riverside terrace and WiFi access. Lao coffee here is particularly good.  edit
  • Delilah's, (on the main street just before the bridge close to the post office, in the opposite of Green Discovery). The place for breakfast. Offers a selection of everything home made including ice cream, bread, muesli and deserts. No MSG or additives used. Free WiFi access for customers. He doesn't treat his employees nicely though. Only go there if you can live with that.  edit
  • Deen restaurant, (100m after the bridge on the right), (856-20)22148895. Indian - Lao, Indian chefs serving very good food. Range of vegetarian options available for 15,000/dish, while meat dishes are approximately twice that. Has free WiFi access. Added internet cafe.  edit
  • Mackana, (across from Deen Restaurant). Has both Lao and Western food, including a whole page of German breakfasts (which the menu says they learned from a German friend). Nice sandwiches, but be careful if ordering "tofu" that you actually get tofu and not meat. Also, with the advertised cappuccino containing an expresso shot with fresh local milk - while it does have nice froth, is actually a packet mix.  edit
  • Nong Kiau Riverside Eco-lodge, (on the Eastern side of the river (across the bridge from the post office)). Offers very good Laos, Asian, and Western food. Beautiful view over the river. Prices a little higher than other restaurants nearby.  edit
  • Sabai Sabai, ((In front of the Wat)). A selection of Local Laos foods in a nice atmospheric setting.  edit
  • Sengdao Restaurant. (beside the bridge on the western side). Hot & cold drinks from 5000kip, mainly Laos food. Average price for food is 20,000kip.  edit
  • Sunset Restaurant. Reasonable prices for the food, and river view  edit
  • Vinag Restaurant, (40m after the bridge heading east). Dodgy owner with different prices menu that is better to check before especially being on budget. She tried to sell a steaky rice take away for 15,000 kip each and sandwiches for 20,000 (instead 10,000) even complaining after we shown her the menu. Again, dodgy people lose customers. Better to check the bill if you want to give it a try.  edit
  • Morning Dew Restaurant. (80m down the road from the bridge ,just past the Wat) Excellent Lao and Western food at cheap prices. Open for breakfast through to dinner. Made to order baguettes, Lao coffee and cold beer also on offer. Friendly English speaking owner "Dith" is a great source of local info.  edit
  • Vongmany Restaurant. Awesome food and a very good value. The chef learned how to cook from her grandmother as a child and learned modern techniques from a Luang Prabang culinary academy. The only Happy Hour in Nong Khiaw, with some good food and drink specials.  edit
  • NoyMany, (Your first right turn after crossing the bridge). Exceptionally clean restaurant offering gorgeous views of the surrounding limestone kasts. Huge menu with authentic Lao options and international cuisine. The mango sticky rice and Laap are well prepared and taste excellent. 20000k.  edit
  • Chennai restaurant, Nongkhiaw (Opposite to lintong guest house), 020-95746407, [1]. 7am to 10pm. Chennai restaurant is the only place to get real Indian food in nongkhiaw. Serve north & south Indian food with pure veg and non veg dishes. Excellent tasty food. Friendly owner. 25,000-40,000 kip.  edit
  • Namlin Restaurant, (east side of the bridge,about 7 minutes walking, passed the Wat and a few houses, on the left hand side). 7am to 10pm. Name after the young little daughter of the very friendly owners, this nice little place is passed all the restaurants and a few houses, where you think there is gonna be nothing else. Great tasty food at a little price, try the Lap, a typical Lao food, made with love by the wife. On the way to the cave, you can stop on your way back to cool down yourself with a nice on demand fresh squeezed orange juice or an excellent fresh fruit shake. Probably the cheapest place to eat in Nong Khiaw. 10,000-20,000 kip.  edit
  • Alex Restaurant, In front of NoyMany (down dirt road towards Meexai Guesthouse). Long time favourite with tourists. Small menu, with delicious Laos and Western food. Fantastic and friendly hostess. Great homemade pie.  edit
  • Alex2, main road (go down the main road towards the bus station. it comes shortly after the school on your left hand side.). 7.30h to 19h. Two young Lao women opened this restaurant just recently in September 2016. They offer delicious modern Laos food and great cakes in a nicely decorated place. If you want to experience the Lao cuisine of tomorrow you should definitely visit.  edit

Drink[edit][add listing]

Cold Beer Laos are served everywhere in local restaurants. The small shops sell cheap but decent Lao Lao in unlabeled bottles, probably homemade.

  • Coco Home Bar & Restaurant. 8am - 10:30pm. Bar & restaurant serving authentic Thai and Western dishes by Thai chef. Full range of cocktails, mixers and shots. Movies shown at 8am, 12pm & 6pm everyday on big balcony with river-mountain views. Two raised chill out huts and a comfy hideaway inside. Free WIFI, satellite TV, message board and blankets available.  edit
  • Hive Bar, on the western side of the bridge (Passed the bridge, you take the small road on the right, behind the main road). Nice outside terrace with passionfruit plants growing as a rooftop. The Nong Khiaw cocktail is not on the menu but definitely needs to be try, a invention of the very friendly owner, made with local herbs. He will make your drinks at your taste if you like them stronger, you just need to ask! Free Lao whisky shots at arrival. You can also choose the music you want to hear. Everything will be made to welcome you and make you feel comfortable and happy. Happy hours between 17h30 and 19h30 ( Big Lao 10,000 kip and cocktails 30,000-40,000 kip) 15,000- 50,000 kip.  edit
  • Q Bar, "on. 7am - 11pm. Passed the bridge, next to Souliphone Tours and just before Sabaï Sabaï Massages. Cocktail and wine bar, ideally located next to most guesthouses and a few meters away from the viewpoint access. Also a full restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, local food and snacks. Fun and tasty Lao BBQ is the reason to stay after a cocktail or two. Great vegetarian options as well. Happy hour from 5 to 8pm, get two cocktails for the price of one! One of the best place to meet fellow travelers and exchange on all your adventures. It's also one of the few warm places if you're in town during a cold snap; they build a fire in a bomb casing, and will also slide charcoal braziers under your table to keep your feet warm. 10,000 - 50,000 kip.  edit

Sleep[edit][add listing]


  • Bamboo Paradise - has both rooms and bungalows with private hot showers. Bungalows have river view. Free WiFi, but not in all rooms. Basic restaurant. Mind that the rooms have no bars on the windows and the mosquito net can easily be removed so take care of your cash. Rooms and bathrooms are dirty and not comfortable. 70,000 kip, maybe negotiable to 50,000.
  • Lin Tong Guesthouse - After the bridge 100m on the right. Mobile: +856 205 437 7098 or +856 9 813 3308. Value bungalows, close to all the restaurants. Friendly owners, English and French spoken. 40,000 kip bungalow (shared bathrooms, 70,000 kip bungalow (inside bathrooms).
  • Meexai Guesthouse - very clean, modernly built guesthouse on the eastern side, with inexpensive rooms. The great views have been blocked by new building project (guesthouse by Sunrise Bungalows), some of the views still left on the far end corner of the house (room 5 upstairs, room 10 downstairs). Hot showers, real toilets (not squat toilets), decent size bathroom. Spacious rooms with tall ceiling but could really use more amenities inside the room, i.e. only one small table provided. Free, pretty reliable WiFi accessible in all rooms except a few that are furthest from the router and cannot pick up a signal. Bungalows were 70,000 kip in Feb 2012, 50,000 kip in May 2014, 60,000 kip in July 2015, 100.000 kip in January 2019. Friendly owner. Note that she consistently estimates laundry weight higher than it should be (at 10,000 kip / kg) so ask her to use a scale rather than her own guesstimate.
  • Nam Houn Guesthouse - guesthouse on the eastern side, has river view bungalows and non-river view bungalows (for a cheaper price). Wifi available. Some with attached bathrooms with hot shower. River view 70,000 kip & no river view 60,000 kip. 40,000 kip in the low season.
  • Pho Sai River View - Has the words Nam Ou River Lodge (which is right next door) written on its sign, which can be confusing. These are more basic bamboo bungalows, 80.000 kip in Jan 2018, with river view balconies. Towel, 1 bottle water, soap provided. Basic ensuite bathrooms, Western toilets with bucket flush, limited hot water and water pressure. A good choice in warm weather, but not a good choice in very cold weather.
  • Nam Ou River Lodge - [5] Small and cozy guesthouse located on the more quiet side of town behind the school (between the boat landing and the bus station). Friendly owner that speaks English well and rooms have wonderful river views. 120.000 kip double with a private bathroom (Jan 2018); no singles. Lower rates possible in low season. Free wifi. Small bar with simple food. Possible to book rooms online at Agoda and
  • Sengdao Chittavong Guesthouse, (Next to the bridge on the western side). checkout: 12:00. Clean, cozy bungalows in beautiful garden with great mountain view. Hot water, good mosquito nets, no wifi. In Jan 2018, quoted 200,000 kip for a bungalow, but these look like they might be new, higher-end bungalows build closer to the river. 80.000.  edit
  • Sunrise Bungalows, (Next to the bridge on the eastern side). Solidly-built wooden bungalows with hammocks offer great river views, although the attached bathrooms are rather primitive. Run by a very friendly older couple, they are never to shy for a short chat. 30,000 to 60,000 kip.  edit
  • Sunset Guesthouse - on the eastern side. Basic rooms at 50.000 kip, bungalows with private bath at 150.000 kip. Food quality varies depending on who is making it. 60.000 kip for bungalows with private bath in low season, as of July 2015. Double bungalow offered for 120.000 kip in January 2018. No mosquito screen on windows. No Wifi.
  • Phulisak Guesthouse - on the eastern side. All rooms at 50,000 kip (October 2012) all with private bath, TV, wifi in room & fan only. Rooms are bright & clean. Water (hot & cold) is available for free. No food is supplied here but there are three restaurants within 1 minute. Not much of a view but this is an excellent cheap option.
  • Synthane Guest House - on the eastern side, directly on the road next to Chennai restaurant and across from Phulisack. Basic upstairs doubles 50.000 kip in Jan 2018. Small sitting areas out front. Ensuite bathrooms with hot water and okay water pressure. Can be very loud at night. Small convenience store downstairs with snacks and water.
  • Delilah's Cafe has some dorm beds upstairs. Nice vibe, it feels like a mixture of living room and cafe

Mid range[edit]

  • Nong Kiau Riverside [6] - Along the river on the eastern side. Overlooking the river, it's the best upmarket choice, featuring big bungalows with kettle, private balcony, deckchairs and attached bathrooms with hot water. Rooms at USD 30-50 including breakfast buffet (eggs, bacon, sausages, baguette, jam, cheese, salami, musli, corn flakes, baked beans fruits, tea/coffee and more). Free glass of wine if booked directly at the hotel website. Free wifi. Rents mountain bikes, and can set up a range of transportation or tour options. Great restaurant.
  • Mandala Ou Resort [7] - New premier bungalow eco resort, featuring Nong Khiaw's only swimming pool, situated high on the banks of the scenic and tranquil Nam Ou river. Offers 10 spacious, clean & comfortable detached bungalows with eco-friendly ceramic heaters. Free bike rental for guests. Hosts regular yoga retreat long weekends, professionally run by Luang Prabang Yoga, held on the purpose-built yoga sala above the Nam Ou river. Free resort-wide WiFi coverage with decent 5Mbit/s internet connection. Board games, books. The restaurant is known for its delicious Western, Thai and Lao dishes prepared to order using fresh local produce. The poolside bar serves wine and beer, classic cocktails and fresh fruit shakes/smoothies. Prices for 1st October 2017 - 15th April 2018: Double / Twin Bungalow With River View $US68 Per Night; Double / Twin Bungalow With Garden Fountain View $US58 Per Night; Extra Single Bed (1 Per Bungalow Only) $US20 Per Night; All prices include breakfast (eggs, fried rice or rice/vege soup, croissants, bread, jam and fruits, cereals, yoghurt etc.) The resort closes from 15th April to 30th June.


Some restaurants and guest houses offer WiFi internet connections. The Nong Khiaw Riverside and Coco Bar have internet computers for a small fee. The speed can be very slow.

Get out[edit]

North of Nong Khiaw one hour by boat one finds Muang Ngoy Kao or Old Muang Ngoi, an old backpacker favourite with a real village feel. Also see the GET IN section for more information.

By Bus[edit]

The bus station is located on the west part of Nong Khiaw about a 10 minute walk from the bridge/boat landing. Tuk tuks mean boat landings and offer rides to the bus station for 5.000 kip per person. If possible you should always check times/prices with the bus station ticket office prior to travel.

  • Udomxai - 11am, 45,000 kip, 4 hours.
  • Luang Prabang - 8:30am, 10am, 11am, 12pm, 1:30pm. Tickets for 40,000 - 50,000 kip (Luang Prabang Northern Bus / Southern Bus station). Minivans go from bus station 1km west from boat landing (45k). There is tuk-tuk available for 5k but you can easily go by foot. They wait for people to come so can departure late.
  • Sam Neua - 1 a day (11:30), takes 10-11 hours, 130,000 kip.

Private minivan service available by several guesthouses and restaurant. A brand new Toyota is available at Nong Kiau Riverside. A private minibus can take you anywhere in the north.

By Boat[edit]

Boats that go up the river to Muang Ngoi Neua leave regularly in the high season until 15:00 –takes 1 hour costs 25,000 kip. In low season there is one boat definitively at 9:30 and another at 14:00. Some of the boats continue to Muang Khua

Boats on the Nam Ou: To Muang Ngoi the public boats leave at 10:30 and around 14:00. Recommend arriving 30 minutes early to buy ticket and wait, as boarding can be chaotic. The price is 25.000 kip. Private boats coat 300.000-400.000 kip one way, but can be cheaper if the person driving needs to go anyway. Speedboats do not operate anymore.

To Luang Prabang No boats are available to Luang Prabang due to the construction work of dams on the river (March 2017)

Further on the Nam Ou to Muang Khua The boats leave around 11.00 if there are enough people to fill it. A charter cost about 1.1 million kio, and takes about 6 hours. Visit the boat landing and pass by a few times to check if there are some/enough people. Speedboats to Muang Khua costs 1 million kip and, and takes 2.5 hours (I don't think these run anymore; Jan 2018). Especially the part north of Muang Ngoi is extremely picturesque and worth visiting/cruising through. You can do that also with a day cruise from Muang Ngoi in a small boat.

Remember: In Laos even the public transportation is mostly privately owned and drivers stand in a queue to grab the next job/drive. So if there is no profit, they won’t go! If travelling alone you might be waiting for the next boat or busload of people to turn up.

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