Livingston is a town in Guatemala.
Every once a year Livingston celebrates the Garifuna's Day an authentic cultural fest that begins with a Representation of the Yurumein which commemorate the day that Marcos Sanchez Diaz arrived with a small community of garifunas to this land. This day Livingston congregates garifunas from all Central America (belize, honduras, guatemala) in a mass intercultural celebrating their traditions. People will be dancing on the streets accompanied by drums and musical intruments with native rhythm as "Punta", "Sarabanda" etc.
sunrise in livingston Livingston
There is no road access to Livingston yet (as of Oct 2017). The only access points are via the ocean or the river.
By river, you take a lancha (powered boat) from "Fronteras Rio Dulce" township located at the mouth of the lake and the Rio Dulce river (intersections of roads CA13 and 7E). This route can take from 1 - 2.5 hrs and offers a visual tour. The Ticket price is Q.125.00 per/person. As of May 2015, the lanchas leave at 9:30am and 2:00pm from Rio Dulce.
By the ocean or sea you can travel from Puerto Barrios, find the Municipal dock (Muelle Municipal) and take a lancha that crosses the Amatique bay. This trip is much faster--around 40 minutes. The ticket price is Q.35.00 per/person
The difference is the price and time as you can notice!
A ferry leaves Puerto Barrios for Livingston Monday to Saturday at sometime in the morning (sometime around 11:00, but confirm first) and at 17:00. It costs 20 Quetzales. Collectivo Lanchas from Puerto Barrios to Livingston leave all day and cost 35 Quetzales until 17.00. After, it cost 50 Q. (December 2015).
Another option is to visit from Punta Gorda, Belize, served by a ferry every day, and twice on Tuesdays and Fridays for US$30. Ferry schedule: PG to Livingston: 1:00PM daily, 10:30AM Tuesdays and Fridays. Livingston to PG: 3:00PM daily, 7:00AM Tuesdays and Fridays. There is a BLZ 37.5 departure tax at the immigration office located at the dock. Boats from Punta Gorda to Puerto Barrios run daily. When arriving from another country make sure to check in with immigration(500 feet uphill from the dock) to get your entry stamp.
Private Transport shuttle is other option to travel from guatemala City the road CA9n 5 hrs
Livingston is a very small town and it does not take long to become familiar with the place. The main street running through Livingston is Calle Principal. The majority of the towns shops, restaurants and bars are situated on this road. Everything else is situated on roads directly leading from Calle Principal. Should you need a taxi, the price is Q20 (August 2011), no matter where you go. Make sure you negotiate the price in advance!
The people of Livingston are a mixture of the Black Garifuna, Spanish Guatemalans and Mayan Guatemalans. A number of languages are spoken including Spanish, Garifuna and English is also widely spoken.
Livingston has two not very impressive beaches. The beach to the North of Livingston is unclean and is patrolled by armed police as there have been a number of recorded incidents there in the past. The central beach is pleasant enough, although grass grows into the water at various points. Children come here to fly kites most evenings and this is a friendly beach where the locals come to swim. Sometimes (usually after a period of bad weather) the beaches are full of plastic waste from Belize. The government sends out workers to collect that and clean the beaches, though.
Other beaches close to Livingston include Playa Quehueche which is a few kilometres along the Northern coast. You can Walk or take a taxi in order to reach this place.
5km to the North of Livingston are the beautiful waterfalls known as Los Siete Altares (entrance fee 20 Q). These are a set of seven freshwater pools and waterfalls leading into the Caribbean. Best time to visit this place is on July August, September and October. Try to avoid this place during the dry season (April, May and June)
Trekking, Snorkeling, Kayaking, Caving, Eat Tapado, Machuca and coconut bread, Drink many Cocos Locos (Coconut water and Rum) as you want, or perhaps something more strong as the guifiti and chill out at the beach of Playa Blanca (entrance fee 20 Q)!
Must commercials, grocery stores (well supplied) and hand craft shops are located at the main street of Livingston. Local Hand Craft are made with coconut, wood, seashells. The best coconut bread is the one that you can find on the main street with the garifuna girls and is really cheap!
Livingston was traditionally a small fishing town and therefore carries a good selection of seafood. Many places serve very cheap grilled shrimp. Tapado is a soup made from fish, prawn and shellfish, served with crusty bread. Cooked in coconut milk and garnished with coriander.
There are a large number of restaurants spread out around Calle Principal and the streets leading from this. These restaurants include:
- Restaurante Mc Tropic . VEGANA "MC TROPIC" IS NOW OPEN AND LOCATED INSIDE Hotel Rios Tropicales @ THE ROOF TOP TERRACE offering nice view to the town and river, with wooden tables and lounge-style seating. This place will take you to experiment different traditional flavors made by garifunas and Mayan queqchies womans!!! This Vegan spot offers healthy food as a medicine, probiotics and fermented drinks and food, vegan dishes as well as the traditional local SOUP tapado. Happy hour runs everyday with their house infused coctails, try the spicy mojito AND garifunas ice shots. Special prices for large groups and students. Ask for the vegan menu of the day, there is always something interesting. Gluten and lactose free options
- Restaurante Bahía Azul. They do a delicious Tapado. Great local Garifuna & Quechi cuisine as well as international dishes. Plays local music and serves fabulous cocktails, you can taste the typical drink Gifiti. Fantastic view. Free Wi-Fi connection, and good Pizza. Good Breakfast for 18Q.
- Tilingo Lingo, by where the main road runs into the beach, this is run by a talkative Mexican woman who has lived in India as well. She prepares curries with local products that are quite good. Makes quite a good Mojito.
- Vecchia Toscana Resort, Barrio Paris (10 minute walk up north along the beach), ☎ +502 7947-0884, . 10AM-10PM. This restaurant is part of Vecchia Toscana Resort, an unusual place as it features European cuisine (mostly Italian specialities). European management, credit cards accepted. edit
- Happy Fish. Good garlic fish, and a strong fast Wi-Fi signal that reaches into some of the rooms of the Hotel Rio Dulce next door.
- Bugamamas. Just south of the dock. Has great views. Fish and breakfast are well priced. Wi-fi.
- Restaurante Tiburón Gato. Excellent, cheap grilled shrimp, fish and chicken.
- Mama Beans and Rice. Traditional Caribbean coconut Beans and rice with stew chicken for 20Q. It's all they serve and it's great. The best meal I had in Livingston. Very cheap beer too. Right next door to Bugamamas.
- El Recuerdo. Located on the ground floor of the Hotel Henry Beresford. This place has a limited menu and keeps somewhat mysterious hours. But the food is super cheap and delicious. Fish for 25Q, shrimp for $40Q. edit
- Las Tres Garifunas. Serves traditional Garifuna cuisine. Many of the restaurants on the Calle Principal offer Garifuna choices, but this restaurant is actually operated by real Garifuna natives of Livingston. Walking up the Calle Principal, look for the giant yellow school building at the crest of the hill. Then turn left, and the restaurant is on the right side of that street. edit
The local drink here is Coco Loco. This is a coconut based drink where the top is cut off a coconut and a very generous serving of rum is poured in. These are delicious and very potent.
There is live Garifuna music in many bars most nights. A local set of musicians do a tour of the restaurants playing traditional Garifuna music with traditional set up of large drums, a turtle shell, conch shell and maraccas. Words are chanting in the background which makes an interesting accompaniment to a meal.
There are many places to sit and enjoy a drink in Livingston.
- Rios Tropicales - very popular for their exotic House Infused Coctails & Mokcoctails using organic and natural ingredient as well as the popular "Coco Loco" well made and with an extra plus that all is natural no artificial flavors. People come here often for a tasting of the guifiti shot the garifuna drink (guifiti) try the guifiti ice shots they explain you how they made it. Espressos, capuccinos, superfood smoothies & Fruit Shakes, matcha frape and late , Golden Late!!! home made Vegan yogurt with fruits, vegan pancakes, crepes with nutella. Also you can buy bags of coffee beans in its Coffee Shop
- Bar Beluba Nuruba - Disco on the beach at the very end of Calle Principal.
- La Buga - At the entrance to the dock.
- Pool Bar @ Vecchia Toscana Resort, Barrio Paris (10 minute walk north along the beach), ☎ +502 7947-0884, . 7PM - midnight. This classy Pool-Bar is part of Vecchia Toscana Resort. Sometimes there is easy live music, the bar is run by a European management and offers great cocktails and a variety of local and international drinks edit
- Gabboa Place Restaurant, Barrio San Jose (straight ahead from the boat dock to the ocean left along the beach to the sign then back along the fence). 8-8. Great little family owned place great food. It is kind of behind another building along a fence so you must look for it. Best fried fish I have had in Guate and my grandson picked the bones clean on his chicken. Nice sized fish with french fries, salad and beer for 70q 70. edit
- Hotel & Restaurant & Travel Agency Rios Tropicales Phone:502+7947-0158. Rooms from US$7 . Located after migration office. FREE WIFI!! Offers 4 rooms with private bathroom cold shower) and 1 private rooms with shared bath. They also organize excellent kayaking tours along the canyon of the River "Rio Dulce", Caving tours and Visits to mayan villages. Interesting in going somewhere...here you will find transfers to la Ceiba, Punta Gorda and Lanquin (Coban). Special Happy Hour in Restaurant MC TROPIC and a cozy coffee shop at the entrance of this hotel. It has a lovely courtyard with hammocks.This place has good coffee and breakfast every morning Made-To-Order and a wide variety of waffles, Expressos, Capuccinos or Why Not an Ice Coffee like the frapuccino. Ask for melanie or stephanie, the entrepreneurs young owners that will assist you during your stay in Livingston. Ask for our speciall ofers!.
- Casa de la Iguana , about ¾ km west(to the left) of the dock off the main road, this is a hostel that includes a bar/restaurant and offers a communal dinner (Q45) and is very good to meet other travelers. It is quite descent food so it might be a nice alternative if you're a bit sick of eating rice and beans. Due to its position bordering on light jungle, there's some sand flies depending of the days. Possibly a good choice for those who want to party without leaving their hostel. Camping space and hammocks are available for 20Q, dormitories go for 45Q, rooms with shared bathroom for 120Q, rooms with private bathroom for 160Q. There are no window screens, so wear insect repellent or put the fan in your direction. Mosquito are not a huge problem here since the local crab population eat the larve however sand-flys can be an annoyance. There are typically movies on all day, and a local band plays drums there on occasion. The hostel even has its own rescue animal, an orphan Racoon by the name of Loco. Happy Hour from 6-8. If you are coming from Rio Dulce and want to skip dealing with the local mafia waiting for you at the dock, you can ask the boat driver to stop you at "Casa de la Iguana" and you will only need to cross the road to get there.
- Hotel Rio Dulce, Rooms from Q.40.00 per night. One of Livingston's oldest and most authentic Caribbean-style building with views over the main street. Dorms, Rooms with Shared Bathroom and bungalows with private bathroom are available. Ask for Betty & Marcos. Located after Hotel Rios Tropicales.
- Hotel Dona Alida, tel/fax +502-7947-0027, $25 double room.  All rooms are clean and safe and offer a wonderful view over the bay. They are set up very comfortable and spacious with double beds, triple or four beds, providing ventilator and private bathrooms.
- Hotel El Viajero, $4 per person litte older hotel but clean and on the water front. Staff will cook you up a great meal for less then in town.
- Hotel La Casa Rosada, ☎ 502-7-947-0303, . Cabanas facing a dock with hammocks. Shared bathrooms. Follow the signs from the dock. $20. edit
- Hotel Maya HB, Located 1/2 km west of the dock on the main road, run by a friendly local family. Room with two beds and private bath cost 25Q/night. Has hammocks on the roof. The sheets were dirty.
- Vecchia Toscana Resort, Barrio Paris, Livingston, Izabal, Guatemala (10 minute walk north along the beach), ☎ (00502) 7947-0884, . checkin: 15:00; checkout: 11:00. Very unusual and beautiful resort as it features a mixture of caribbean and european architecture. Main building with pool, bars and restaurant, various bungalows with cosy, clean rooms (a/c), some of them directly on the beachfront. European owners (German couple), high class service at a reasonable price. Boat-Tours to Rio Dulce and surroundings. USD 45-150. edit
- Hotel African Place. Phone: 502+56588853 (Manolo). Camping Site from 20Q. Rooms withouth bathroom 35Q person. 40 Q. P. person With Private bathrooms Free WiFi, kitchen, big gardens with turtles and friendly athmosphere. Located in garifuna zone. In barrio Nevagó, between catholic church and cementery. Near san José beach and on the way to 7 altares and Salvador Gaviota beach. Quiet place.
Livingston in general is a safe place. You can walk on the main street, neighborhoods and the beach without any problem. Sometimes the sentences "Buy me a beer" or "Give me a cigarette" can be heard by some guys but a polite "No" helps.
On the other hand, the guys at the dock who make a living off the tourists coming off the boats are quite aggressive. If you arrive without having booked a hotel in advance these guys will harass you on the main street until you agree to go with them. They will probably take you only to the places where they can collect Q.10 commission from the owners and probably later you will be paying for that commission which will be included in your room.
Advice: If you arrive without having booked you can go to the tourist information office (located on the main dock). They have a list of all the hotels in the town, can show you pictures of each hotel with the prices and can also book a room for you. You will avoid walking a long distance! Also, some hotels gives you a better price on your room if you book your hotel from the Tourist Information office.
Watch out for an older man called Panades. He'll befriend you on the streets and seems pleasant enough. Before long he'll try to talk you into buying drugs and become aggressive.
- Transfers from Livingston to Rio Dulce (OW / RT)-Boats depart twice daily to Rio Dulce at 9.30AM and 2.30PM the standard price is US$16 /Q.125 per person. You can book for this transfer in any of the hotels above.
- Tranfers from Livingston to Punta Gorda, Belize - Boats departs every Tuesday and Friday at 7:00am. Price is Q.225. You can book your ticket with Rios Tropicales Agency which is located after migration office. It is necessary that you get your passport stamped the night before you leave as the immigration office does not open before the departure time. As of February 2017 there are now DAILY boats to Punta Gorda, on all days other than Tuesday & Friday a boat leaves at 11am and costs the rather extortionate price of Q250 (i.e. more than the cost of taking a boat back to Puerto Barrios and a boat to Punta Gorda from there). Note that there is also a fee of Q80 or US$10 for getting your passport stamped (!) in the migration office in Livingston.
- Transfers to La Ceiba - Rios Tropicales and Happy Fish can organize direct transfers from Livingston to La Ceiba, making sure you get the ferry to the bay islands on time before 4:00 p.m. Price is US$50 per/person (2/2015). Also, Tornabe Tours can pick up travelers from the port in Rio Dulce (7AM) or Puerto Barrios (8AM) to do the transfer to La Ceiba without a stop in San Pedro Sula. Book online for $50 per person with departures typically on Tuesdays. All options require a minimum number of people, so check in advance.
As well as the scheduled boats it is very easy to negotiate chartered boats with many captains around the marina. If there is demand you will be able to find a boat going to Puerto Barrios (35 Quetzales - 4 USD)