Leticia is a city in the Amazonas department of Colombia. It is part of a contiguous settlement that includes Tabatinga in Brazil. On a nearby island in the river is Santa Rosa, which is part of Peru.
Leticia is a small town of approximately 37,000 inhabitants situated on the north bank of the Amazon River. It is the capital of the state of Amazonas, Colombia’s southernmost town (4.09° south 69.57° west) as well as its only major port on the river. It has an elevation much lower than the population centers of Colombia at 96 meters above the sea level and is hot and tropical with average temperature of 27 centigrade (80.6°F).
Leticia is a fairly well developed town and offers the full range of services for the business or recreational traveller. It is well connected by air to Bogota, and by water to Peru and Brazil. Tour agencies offer extensive options for exploring the nearby rivers, rainforest and indigenous communities.
Movement between all three countries' border towns is not heavily policed and generally a person on foot or using public transit will not have to pass through any immigration procedures; but of course, make sure you're stamped into the correct country if leaving the border area. If you happen to be traveling in a private vehicle you will probably need to stop at least on the Colombian side of the land border to have your papers checked. Police on both sides of the border are present and have the right to check you, even if they usually do not so carry your passport for all trips across any border. Your visa stamp will be checked by authorities on all forms of transport out of the region.
Joint Colombian and Peruvian immigration is located on a pontoon boat permanently moored in the river, and connected to the center of the main dock in downtown Leticia. For all journeys between Peru and Colombia, this is the only spot you will visit for all immigration procedures. It is no longer necessary to travel across the river to Santa Rosa to get your Peruvian stamp. If you are arriving by boat, walk over to the pontoon to get your Peru exit stamp and Colombian entry stamp. If you are departing Colombia for Peru, go to the pontoon before you board the boat. Both countries work in the same office, side by side.
If you are departing upstream by boat, your visa stamp will be checked by Peruvian Immigration and police at each port, from initial boarding, all the way to Iquitos. If you have somehow fallen through the cracks, it is possible to have Peruvian Immigration at Caballococha stamp you in.
There is a usually unstaffed Brazillian immigration post at the border, which you will probably bypass. Brazilian immigration offices are located some way down Tabatinga's main avenue, Avenida da Amizade. The Peruvian immigration office in Santa Rosa is fairly central and easy to find, in the center of the tiny business district. All locals will know where it is.
The Leticia airport is undergoing a major renovation and relocation during 2019, during this time you may not find immigration authorities available there so take care of your visa stamps in downtown Leticia.
You can only get into this spectacular, tropical and adventurous town from Colombia by plane or boat. The only place connected to Leticia by a commercial airline is Bogota, there are daily flights with companies LAN and Avianca and flights every second day with VivaColombia. The flight lasts two hours.
Tabatinga has a daily flight to Manaus with Azul Lineas Aereas.
On arrival to Leticia, nonresidents may be requested to show ID. In addition, nonresidents are theoretically required to pay an entrance fee of 35000 pesos (Impuesto al turismo). The fee paper is colorful and it may seem that the representative is trying to sell you something if you don't understand Spanish.
For Santa Rosa, Peru water taxis travel back and forth on demand. Rates seem to be set at about 3000 pesos for locals and 5000 for everyone else. You can get these from the floating covered dock in the center of the Leticia waterfront, or at the main dock in Santa Rosa. If the water is high you might get one right off the north side of main street in the center of the village. These same boats can be chartered for other places, prices negotiated with the driver.
For Caballococha Peru, boats arrive and depart from the main harbor in the center of Leticia at least twice per day and several agents on the waterfront can sell you tickets. Upstream takes about 4 hours and downstream about 2.
For Iquitos Peru, there are two main boat companies offering fast boats.
The smaller and somewhat older Golfinho boat arrives and departs from the shore of the island of Santa Rosa on Monday, Thursday and Saturday. Scheduled departure time is 0300 but it will leave once all ticketed passengers have boarded, which could be as much as an hour early. You have two options for getting to the departure point; either stay the night in Leticia and pay around 10,000 pesos for a boat in the middle of the night, or else pay 5000 pesos for a water taxi the night before and then spend that night in the village of Santa Rosa. There are a few basic hostels and one basic hotel. Then, at around 0130 you can walk or take a mototaxi to the departure point. This boat has 2-2 seating configuration and has a basic toilet on board. Seat pitch is somewhat like airline economy plus, many of the seats are broken, and there is no common area to stand or walk in. It is somewhat comfortable, about like a long bus ride. Upstream, you stop at about a dozen small villages and the journey takes 17-19 hours depending on time spent on loading passengers and cargo. The boat will probably stop to refuel once. Two light meals are served. Tickets are sold at the Golfinhos office on the Street of the Shoes in Tabatanga, which accepts soles or reals in payment and can usually conduct business in Spanish, Portugese and English. You can also buy tickets from agents in Santa Rosa.
The larger Transtur boat is similar although newer and travellers report a significantly shorter travel time of around 14 hours. Departures are Monday, Thursday and Saturday at 0500. This boat does not seem to make as many intermediate stops, although it does stop in Caballococha. To get to the departure point you must take a boat from either Santa Rosa or Leticia, since it departs from a floating pontoon that you can not walk to from Santa Rosa. You can buy tickets at the office on the Street of the Shoes in Tabatana, or at agents in Santa Rosa.
It is possible to take one of the midday boats upstream to Caballococha and spend a night at one of the basic hotels there, and then continue upstream the next day on either of the fast boats. This avoids the middle of the night departure. If you want to do this book the fast boat segment at the boat ticket offices in Tabatanga.
Boats downstream from Manaus, arrive in Tabatinga. There are two types of boat, one slow, one fast. The time taken varies slightly depending on the season and water level in the river, but expect 5-7days for the slow boat and 1.5-2days for the fast boat. The price of the fast boat is comparable to flying. Don't expect to see much wildlife when travelling by boat, the Amazon is really, really wide. Pink river dolphins sometimes swim alongside the boats, however.
If coming from Manaus, it is quite simple to catch the boat to Tabatinga. The slow boat departs twice a week, inquire at the pier. Bargain and don't accept the first price offered.
For the fast boat, go to the 'Terminal Ajato' at the wharf in Manaus and book directly with them. You can find this by going to the market near the wharf, then walk east until the road curves around. The booking office is on a modern floating pontoon. There will be hawkers outside, but just go on the pontoon and book direct with the Terminal Ajato office there. Make sure to bring your passport. For information on departure times you can view their website here: http://terminalajato.com.br/. As of May 2015 the cost of the fast boat is 550 reals - or more than the cost of a flight booked a week in advance and just slightly cheaper than a last-minute flight. The journey takes about 36 hours and includes food. From Tabatinga's pier it is a short taxi ride or long walk to Leticia.
Most of the area is walkable. The airport is about a 30 minute walk from the center, and the center of Tabatanga is an hour or so.
Mototaxis abound. It should be about 1000 COP from the center to the border with Brazil, more if you're going to the port. There are also motocarros, covered tricycle-type vehicles in which you're more protected from the elements. You can rent a moto or a bicycle in various points around town.
- Puerto Nariño & Tarapoto Lakes
- Micos Monkey Island A nature reserve that allows you to feed the monkeys
- Walk through Leticia Parque Santander (birds) and Parque Orellana are the main atractions for locals. At certain times you might find band competitions, sports, dance, etc.
- Bicycle trip to Tabatinga (Brazil)
- Bird Watching At sunset, thousands of small parrots fly to Parque Santader to spend the night in the park's trees. If you ask nicely at the church next to the park, they will let you see this spectacle from the church's bell tower. A small donation is required (COP 2,500). The tower also offers a nice view over the city and the Amazon river.
- Kayaking in the Yahuarcaca lakes
- Macuna Jungle Hut Communal large living hut of one of the indigenous tribes
- Flor Lagoon Swimming lagoon with Victoria Lillys, parrots and small bar
- Parque Ecológico Mundo Amazónico This is an Etno-Botanic center to see more than 300 species of plans that only grow in the Amazon, to learn about culture, ecological practices and recycling. It is located at Km 7,7 on Leticia -Tarapaca's road. - Extremely educational and interactive. You will learn about tribes and how they live in this eco friendly park. If you come to the amazon looking for eco tourism and do not visit this park you missed the mark. Learn tips for recycling that you can put in to practice back home an also raise awareness.
- Acuarios Etuena The first aquarium to display a wide range of native species from the rainforest.
- Natural Reserve Victoria Regia, Amazonas River, km 2 on the way to Puerto Nariño. A natural reserve where you can see a lot of Queen Victoria waterlilies edit
Because of its privileged position as a triple frontier and being very close to a tributary river Yavarí, Leticia can serve as the perfect base for eco-tourism activities as well as for the studies of wildlife and flora in the Amazon region. It can also be the perfect starting point for visiting indigenous tribes such as the Tikunas, Yaguas, Huitotos and Boras in the Amazonas  . On the Yavarí river you can find the Yaguas and Mayorunas.
Close to Leticia you can also find Amacayacu National Park which is on Colombian territory. On the Yavarí River there is also a natural Reserve. The ribera peruana is also a zone with virgin tropical forest. Amongst others in the ribera peruana, the Cayaru river can be found.
Leticia also greets 2 or 3 tourist cruises in the season between March and April such as the MV World Explorer, MV Bremen, MV Le Levant. Celebrity guests also include the famous Mr. Bill Gates.
Cautious travellers MIGHT want to have a yellow fever certificate ready, showing vaccination at least 10 days earlier. While the vaccination IS (technically) required, the check is very infrequently performed.
- Sergio Rojas Famous Amazon Travel Guide (English Speaking Guide in Leticia Amazonas), Carrera 9 # 11-56 (Downtown), ☎ 3132651778 ([email protected]), . Do you need any help or advice? Sergio rojas is one of the most famous travel guide in the Amazon. He could answer any question reggarding your trip and could take you to the most exotic places in the Amazon Basin. He knows really cool deep jungle spots. edit
- The Coke Journey (Local visit to Bora and Uitoto indigenous tribes), Km 7 (Carrera 9 # 11-56), ☎ 3132651778, . 8:00. This is an exotic and authentic tour to meet local indigenous Bora and Uitoto communities learning the life style, customs, rituals and seeing the main proccess of Mambe (Toasted Coke and Yarumo leaves). On this journey you will have the opportunity to hike in the jungle, have chagras (plantation) workshops, see rituals, get to visit local indigenous malocas and brazilian natural reserve. Operated by local english speaking guide Sergio Rojas and it will include rubber boots and rain cover. Email: [email protected] $75 USD. (,10 hours) edit
- The Eware Trail (Complete Jungle, River and Native Tribes tour), Carrera 9 #11-56 (Downtown), ☎ 3132651778, . 8:00. This is an Amazing trip which combines River, Water and Native Tribes. It is hosted by English Speaking translator and it's full of activities such as jungle treks, visiting lakes, sharing with native communities, piranha fishing, canoeing, amazing flooded jungle to travel, handcraft workshop and many more activities. This Tour is a really killing day in the Amazon. The food is amazing and it's a native Minga. 150000. edit
- Selvaventura Jungle Tours (Expeditions and Guided visits), Carrera 9 # 6-85, ☎ 5926160, . Specialized agency for jungle walkings, jungle trips and expeditions tailored. edit
- Amazon express tour, carrera 10 # 9 - 30 (La tribu hostel), ☎ +57 3508147960. A three days, two night trip starting in Leticia, and going through the Amazon river until Puerto Nariño, first day you'll go to the natural reserve Queen Victoria, make a stop at an indigenous community and walk around for about an hour, and then go to another indigenous community, but this time to make a hike around the jungle with a guide from the community, then take lunch, and finally go to sail and if you're lucky and isn't raininand sleeping on a boat :) second day you'll sail until the Tarapoto Lakes, and swim with the pink and gray dolphins, they go to Puerto Nariño, a beautiful small town by the river, there you're going to spend the night at a cabin and if you still have some energy take a night hike through the forest and/or take some drinks at the town. Third day take lunch by the river and go back to Leticia. The price includes food, water, accommodation, guides and entrances. Translator available. 700.000COP. edit
- Expeditions George of the Jungle (trips to the jungle around rio javary), Cra. 11 Calle 7 # 10 - 95 (center, close to harbour), ☎ 3175299539, . 8am-8pm. Jorge Gudman and his guides are a very experienced team. All of them grew up close to Leticia and for this reason they have a lot of knowledge about the Amazon. Since two years they are a official registered tour agency, but still they have organised tours since about 25 years. The tours are very flexible, if you have just a short time, they will organise a special tour for you, so that you can do as many activities in your time available. Also they organise tours to the not so touristic places like Puerto Narino, but more to places like Gamboa and Sacambu, which are indigenious tribes of Peru. You will be part of the local community of the Tikunas (sleeping in their houses, have local guides) and for that reason the agency is supporting the people in the jungle! edit
- La Manigua Reserva Natural, Kilometro 18.5 (Carretera Leticia-Tarapaca, Kilometro 18). 8:00-18:00. This wonderful natural reserve offers perhaps the best, natural swimming option that one can find in the Amazon. Located on a sprawling stretch of land, the swimming is raw, natural, and fantastic. Kayaks are also available to rent and paddle around the sprawling expanse of nature. A great way to spend a day away from the city. $3.00. edit
Plaza Flores, close to SENA
Amazon Spanish College . Learn Spanish, Amazon studies or participate in volunteer projects. Here international students from all over the world meet. Spanish courses include social and cultural activities. The Amazon Spanish College also arrange Eco-adventure excursions up the river and to the rainforest. Accommodation in bungalows at campus or in host family.
SENA. Free education for colombians and visitors alike. Learn sewing, portuguese, tourism, carpentering, metalworking, etc. Check the "Formaciones Complementarias" schedule at the website for more information.
Jungle Craft at Hipilandia . Learn essential jungle skills such as using a machete properly, how to make natural rope, how to climb a palm tree and how to weaves things like a backpack, hat or basket etc. Best to call them due to very poor internet access in Leticia. +(57)320 3679669 or +(57)3224209468
Colombian, Brazilian and Peruvian money are all freely traded in all three towns. If getting the best rate matters, check out the rates at the money changers. In May 2016, for example, you could get a very good rate when exchanging Colombian pesos to Brazilian reals - much better than the xe.com official rate. There are frequently problems with the ATMs in Tabatinga, so withdrawing pesos and converting them to Reals may be your only option. There is no ATM in Santa Rosa, so if you want soles you will need to convert another currency.
- Joyeria Roma, Carrera 8, 7-61 (almost directly across from 'Tierras Amazonica' restaurant). Carrera 8 could be said to be the "main drag" of Leticia, for it is here where one will find the greatest and widest variety of shops and services of all sorts. Of all of these, however, this jewelry store stands out from all the rest, as it offers some really unique and beautiful jewelry (by ANY standard), at exceptional prices. The owner/designer, Libardo Sanchez (who also speaks English), is a second-generation jeweler from a family of some repute, and it clearly shows in the quality of merchandise he has to offer in his store (it must also be said that he is also happy to fix or repair anything you have that might have gotten broken in your travels). Come in and be delighted! edit
Leticia is a melting pot for food, even though they commonly eat the same things each week. The delicacies of each region Colombia are made here. For example, many people make sancocho, a hearty soup, in different regions of Colombia. Each family will have its own variation. Common staples are meats baked together with potatoes, and sometimes vegetables, usually cooked over a stovetop in a pan. A usual Sunday meal might consist of grilled meats, cooked in makeshift charcoal grillers, served with rice and plantains.
- Tierras Amazónicas, Carrera 8, 7-50. Nice setting, good food. Lots of fish and seafood options, including cazuela (a kind of soup/stew). moderate. edit
- Tierras Antioqueñas, (Dowtown). This is a cheap place to eat with a very good food. Prices are around 7000 to 10000 COP (2013). edit
- Büetaré Gourmet Restaurante Bar, Calle 8 (Carrera 8-03), ☎ 3213118859, . One of the newer restaurants in the city, and unquestionably one of the best. Located on the main drag of Leticia, it offers a terrific cocktail menu, wonderful outdoor ambience and truly magnificent food. The menu offers a wide variety of options, including an impressive array of vegetarian dishes. All foods are cooked with fresh local ingredients with nothing processed or frozen. Highly recommended. edit
- Calle 11 & Carrera 6. Leticia's own "Nightclub Alley", the corners of Calle 11 & Carrera 6 are home to a number of bars and nightclubs busy every day of the week. Far enough away from the downtown core that tourists are unaware of its existence, people wanting to party with the locals should not hesitate to come and bar-hop here as this is, unquestionably, where Leticianos come to drink, dance, and party. Also a great place to get good, cheap, street-food.
- Mossh. In parque Santander, plays merengues, bachatas, brasilian pop, electronica, etc. Beer 4,000-6,000 COP (NOTE- this is 2 to 3 times more than what you'll pay pretty much anywhere else in the city). Whisky 15,000.
- Colors. Near the library and close to Mossh. The setup is good for groups.
- La Tribu. Great friendly place owned by an uruguayan. Beers are 2,700 COP and there's pizzas too. Close to Parque Orellana (Anaconda Hotel)
- Blu. Another great club for merengue, bachata, mexican pop, rock. Beer 3,000 COP. Perfect to bounce from La Tribu once you meet someone. May charge cover on certain nights.
The internet in Leticia comes from satellites and is painfully slow. Many hostels do not have working internet at all. 3G - even 2G - mobile phone service is almost non-existent as of May 2016. There is an internet café in an orange-coloured Papeleria on Avenida Internacional that will also allow you to connect your own device to their wifi for 2,000 COP/hour, the speed here seems to be the best in town (Skype calling just about possible).
- Hotel Amazon Bed & Breakfast, . The most comfortable choice. Friendly staff. The Amazon Bed & Breakfast is located in the heart of Leticia, only one block away from the central Plaza Parque Santander, close to coffee shops and restaurants. Modern bungalows with regional flair. edit
- Hotel Anaconda, . A traditional tourist choice. 50 Rooms with AC, swimming pool, Restaurant, Cable TV and different services. All major credit cards. The hotel also owns Anaconda Tours, an operative agency who provides the main tours around the Amazonas River, near villages in Peru and Brazil. edit
- Yoi EcoLodge, ☎ (57) 310 268 8026 ([email protected]), . The most remote lodging option near Leticia which offers basic amenities. The private Bungalows feature a master bedroom with a double bed and 2 or 3 bunk beds and a en-suite bathroom. All meals are included as are activities. The hotel arrange eco-adventure excursions to explore the Amazon river and rainforest. The lodge is located well within the Amazon forest along the Amacayacu River three hours by boat from Letica. Guests will stay in a traditionally styled cabin and be able to participate in a wide variety of activities. Whether you speak Spanish or English if you want to lose yourself in the forest but still have a comfortable bed to sleep in there is no other option like it in the region. edit
- Natural Reserve Tanimboca, ([email protected] / [email protected]). Cabins up in the trees with bath and shower or camping in the canopy of giant trees. They offer good custom jungle trips. edit
- Albergue Tacana, Com de Tacana (Km 11 Via Tarapaca), ☎ 313 8723207 ([email protected]), . checkin: 0200hrs; checkout: 1200hrs. For a real jungle experience the Albergue Tacana is located out in the forest in the community of Tacana . (Take combi from in front of the Anaconda hotel to KM 11 then 50 yards past the school take the road on the right into the jungle. The Albergua and village are 2.5-3 km). Built in the 2004, a traditional forest style building with 3 comfortable cabin style double rooms as well as dormitory accommodation for 8 persons. Fishing, Canoeing, jungle walks with Bora Mirana guides from the the doorstep, try the mambe,jahe/ ayahuasca and experience living Bora(Indigenous) culture. COP 20-30000 pp. edit
- Mahatu Jungle Hostal, Cra 7 No. 1-40, ☎ +57 311 539 1265 ([email protected]), . No Lockers. Popular with backpackers this hostal seems more like a country club, with a huge garden/park including three small lakes, a canoe, and plenty of hammock space. Offers dorms, singles and doubles and has a communal kitchen, a small pool and free WiFi. The owner's behaviour ranges from friendly to lunatic. Dorm bed : 25,000 COP. edit
- Hotel Divino Niño, Av Internacional 7-23 (near Tabatinga). Popular if you arrive from Peru as the owner is from there. Free WiFi. Both single (50,000 COP) and dorm options. Good tours organized by Miguel. Web=http://www.divinoninohotel.com Dorm bed : 25,000 COP. edit
- Los Delfines Hospedaje, Carrera 11 No.12 -85 (Two blocks from Parque Santander), ☎ 592 74 88 ([email protected]), . Offers private rooms. Quiet place close to police and firefighter stations. Managed by chill ladies that speak mostly spanish. WiFi is slow as in most of Leticia. Get deals if you stay for several nights or down to 400,000 - 450,000 COP per month. 25,000 COP. edit
- Hotel Pirarucu, Calle 13 Nro. 10 - 45, . Offers various size rooms. Owner will organize excursions to the nearby attractions. The owner is very friendly and keen to help but better at speaking Spanish than English. edit
- Posada Camino del Rio (Hostel Leticia), Carrera 9 # 11-56, ☎ 57 3132651778 ([email protected]), . checkin: 3:00 pm; checkout: 1:00 pm. Its one of a kind hostel in which its really confortable, the host is really friendly and will help you thru your amazon trip. Speaks english and spanish. Price per person COP 35,000 20 USD. edit
- Amazon Hostel ([email protected]), Carrera 8 # 13-53 (Close to the stadium), ☎ 3143352751, . checkin: 24 hours; checkout: 11 a.m.. This is a family enviroment hostel owned by Thomas Castillo (Very friendly and helpful host) He speaks English, portuguese and Spanish. It is close to Leticia's downtown. The rooms have with private bathroom, fan , air conditioner and shelves. Free WIFI and Internet access, but 15 min walk to airport. 10 min walk to center. edit
- Heliconias Hostal, Calle 10, No 8-23, ☎ 3166067718,3124640233. Brand new, small hostel in a very quiet neighbourhood. Very friendly and helpful host. Price per person COP 40,000. all *<sleep name="Casa del Kurupira " alt="Kurupira House" address="Carrera 9 # 6-100" directions="Close to Selvamotor and Kaguana Bar" phone="+5785926160" url="http://www.casadelkurupira.com" checkin="12:30 PM" checkout="2:00 PM" price="$ 12 USD" lat="" long="">Basic cheap hostel close to the Amazon River and the center of the city. Wi-Fi free and posibilty to get private rooms. The staff people speak english and rooms private bath and all very clean. 2-3 comfortable beds in rooms.For longer stay, negotiate price. Also offers daily trips and expeditions to the jungle. E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] edit
- A casa do Xingu (Xingu Camping Project), Cra 2AE No 14A-52, Barrio Humarizal (next to an invisible Brazilian border), ☎ +5731021521522, . checkin: 24hrs; checkout: 3pm. This is a backpacker's house in which you will stay in a real Leticia's neighbourhood next to a Brazilian piece of jungle, this place runs together with a camping zone in the Brazilian border, there you can go trekking, fishing and of course sleeping in the jungle for just 2USD as a contribution for the project. 12,000 COP. edit
- Hipilandia, Near 'km 11' (Take the 'km11 bus' to the end, then 20min walk through primary jungle), ☎ +(57)320 3679669 or +(57) 3224209468, . . As the name suggests, this is an eco-accommodation suited to hippies, backpackers and others alike. It is located in thick primary jungle just 15km from Leticia. Activities include visiting indigenous in the jungle, or learning jungle skills such as going into the jungle to collect materials then make items such as baskets, hat, backpack etc. Accommodation is basic however the beauty of the jungle and friendliness of the owner make this a an excellent option to experience the jungle without paying the high price of organized tours. Accommodation from COP 15,000, meals for COP 5,000. Call them for directions. edit
- Casa de Las Palmas, Cra 11 13-110, ☎ (57) 311 519 5368 ([email protected]), . This welcoming and comfortable guest house is run by three absolutely delightful brothers. The property itself is in a great locale and features an open, shared living area (with large screen t.v. and video games!), a fully stocked kitchen, and an assortment of guest bedrooms with comfortable mattresses, good, strong fans and all fully protected against bugs and mosquitos. Perhaps best of all is the spacious backyard, which offers perhaps the nicest swimming pool you're likely to find in the Amazon. Eldest brother Jose Carlo Guzman also happens to be one of the best guides in the area. English also spoken. edit
- El Hostel ([email protected]), Carrera 9 # 13 - 84 (Behind the Hospital), ☎ 3224209468. checkin: 11:30; checkout: 11:00. Located in a big house, offers private rooms and dorms, with shared bathrooms, from 25.000COP to 70.000COP breakfast included. Located 4 blocks from the city center, calm and clean, communal kitchen. They also offer tours into the jungle, and rent bikes. English spoken. Nice place for backpackers. 30000. edit
There are two daily flights to Bogota, one on LAN, one on Avianca. You can connect to many other destinations in Colombia for only slightly more than the cost of a Leticia-Bogota flight. If you want to fly to Manaus, you need to cross the border and use Tabatinga's airport. Promo fares can be had for less than R$500, or cheaper than the fast boat. One flight daily, leaving 7pm on Azul.
To Puerto Narino
- Fast boats leave three times daily from Leticia's port - 8am, 10am and 2pm. 29,000 COP, 1.5-2hours. Other stops along the way in some of the smaller villages, e.g. La Libertad, Santa Sofia.
To Benjamin Constant
There is a fast boat to Benjamin Constant that leaves around every half hour, or whenever it's full, from the port in Tabatinga - it costs 20,000 COP.
- Slow and fast boats leave from Santa Rosa to Iquitos 6days a week (they take different days off, so there are actually boats leaving every day). The fast boat (el rapido) leaves around 3 in the morning and the slow boat (la lancha) at 6 or 8 in the evening. Slow boat price is S/.80, although you can try to bargain this down slightly. Don't forget to stamp out of Brazil or Colombia before asking for your Peruvian entry stamp.
- Go to the ports in Tabatinga for travel towards Manaus and Belém. Slow boats from Tabatinga to Manaus leave only Wednesday and Saturday, and from a different port south of the busier main port. It takes between 3-4days, depending on the season and water level - if the water is higher, the boat can take a few extra shortcuts. There are cabins, some even with a/c, but most people sleep in hammocks (bring your own). The price is negotiable, the ticket seller will probably ask for the gringo price of R$200 to start, but DO NOT agree to pay this. Brazilians will pay R$150 for the trip from Tabatinga-Manaus, you should aim to pay the same - it IS possible for foreigners to get this price. It is easier to get a better price if you buy the day before, but even a couple of hours before the boat leaves it can be had for R$180 or less. DO NOT pay more than R$180 under any circumstances, be firm and hold your ground. The ticket office is the building on the left hand side after you walk through the arch, before you come to the boat (prices are from May 2016).
- NOTE: If stamped into Colombia, make sure to get your Colombian exit stamp at the DAS office in the airport, or if you are coming from Peru make sure you get your Peruvian exit stamp at the office in Santa Rosa, the Brazilian policia federal will not stamp you into Brazil until you have stamped out of your previous country. You will not be allowed to even buy a boat ticket without a Brazilian entry stamp. Note that if you are only passing through Leticia (coming from Peru) or staying for just a few days, it is not necessary to stamp into Colombia at all.
Some notes on the slow boat from Tabatinga to Manaus:
- Alcohol is forbidden on board. If you are bringing it, keep it in unmarked containers, or premix it and don't be obvious when consuming it.
- Your luggage will probably be sniffed by dogs before boarding the boat, and after a few hours the Brazilian policia federal may stop the boat and perform a very thorough check on your luggage - completely emptying your backpack. There may be several other less thorough checks, maybe just of your passport, but possibly also your luggage. Hide any contraband (including alcohol) accordingly.
- There is free coffee and hot water on board (mornings and evenings), and also free drinking water (24/7). Unlike the boats in Peru, you don't need to bring your own bowl and cutlery for the meals (included in your fare), although if you do bring them you can get your food "to go" and eat it when you want and outside of the dining room.
- The shop sells snacks, soft drinks etc. and also some cooked food, but absolutely no alcohol.
- There are televisions on board, you should be able to watch any football games that take place during your trip, and also the finest Brazilian soap operas! The signal is analogue and comes from an aerial that needs to be constantly adjusted.
- A good place for your hammock is on the upper deck closer to the end without the toilets, and further away from the engines - but not too close to the TV.
- There are lots of plugs for recharging your electronics onboard, most are dual European/US type, some are only the round European type.
- The food is okay (except breakfast), unless you are a vegetarian. Meals are served very early, especially breakfast, be careful not to miss them. Some of the stops the boat makes you may be able to quickly disembark and get some food from a stall at the dock. Unlike in Peru, there are not many food sellers who will come onto the boat, though there may be a couple at some of the stops.
- If you land in Leticia on the LAN flight from Bogota on a Saturday or Wednesday and want to head straight to Manaus rather than waiting around for a few days, you need to be very quick and to get a bit lucky. Get your Colombian exit stamp in the airport, then take a taxi straight to the policia federal office in Tabatinga for your Brazilian entry stamp. You will almost certainly be too late to catch the boat before it leaves Tabatinga (scheduled 12pm, it may be slightly late), instead go to the other port where the rapidos leave to Benjamin Constant. The slow boat takes 1 hour to reach here and docks for an hour at the port, so if you are lucky you can catch up to it. The slow boat's next stop is not until Sao Paolo de Olivenca, there are also rapidos that go here, although they are more infrequent and expensive.
- There are also stops in Amaturá, San Antonia do Ica, Tonantins, Jutai, Fonte Boa and Alvaraes.
- Overall, the boats are much more spacious, cleaner and comfortable than Peruvian boats, but hardly luxurious. The showers use clean water rather than river water. Less cargo is transported, although the boat still stops for an hour or more at some of the towns along the way. You may also find them less "fun", since people tend to go to bed very early (probably due to the lack of alcohol).