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The Asahi Shrine

Kotohira [9] (琴平) is a small town southwest of Takamatsu but nationally famous as the site of Kompirasan, a large shrine complex. The shrine itself is nice, but it is actually the trip going up that is the real treat, with numerous sights along the way.

As of April 2016, Kotohira had a population of approximately 9000 people.

Get in[edit]

Kotohira is on the JR Dosan Line. From Takamatsu, limited express trains depart once per hour, reaching Kotohira in 35-40 minutes (¥1400, adult unreserved seat). A cheaper but longer trip is by ordinary trains, taking 60-70 minutes and ¥870. Buses also run from Takamatsu Airport [10] (50 minutes, ¥1500). The private Kotoden Kotohira Line (琴電琴平線) departs from Takamatsu-Chikko Stn on the hour and half-past (62 min, ¥630).

From Okayama, Kotohira can be reached in one hour by taking the hourly Nanpu limited express (¥2570, adult unreserved seat). Another option is the Marine Liner train to Sakaide and then a change for the local train to Kotohira (90-105 minutes, ¥1370, adult unreserved seat).

Get around[edit]

The shrine entrance is an easily walked few hundred meters south from the train stations. True to its name, the shrine is built on a hill and it's a fairly long climb all the way to the top. But the whole way is paved and with stairs. Around the entrance are several souvenir shops.

For a taste of medieval luxury, porters can carry you up the hill in a palanquin for even steeper prices (¥6000 and up).

Map of Kotohira and Kompira-san
Konpirasan view

See[edit][add listing]


From the top there is also a spectacular view over the whole area. One of the best times to visit is the cherry blossom season, usually around the end of March and early April.

The sights below are listed in order as you ascend the steps.

  • Great Gate (大門 Daimon). The Great Gate, halfway up the hill, marks your entry into the shrine complex.  edit
  • Treasure Hall (宝物館), (On the right after the Great Gate.). ¥500.  edit
  • Asahi Shrine (旭社 Asahi sha). This shrine, which dates back to 1837, is the largest, oldest, and most impressive of Kompira's many shrine halls, in ornately decorated unpainted wood.  edit
  • Main Shrine (本宮 Hon-gū). The centerpiece of the temple complex, with a large square in front and many buildings packed in a cluster.  edit
  • Izutama Shrine (厳魂神社 Izutama-jinja), (583 steps up from the Main Shrine.). Far fewer visitors make it all the way up here, and you'll be rewarded with nice views over the city. Also known as the Inner Shrine.  edit

Other sites[edit]

  • Kinryo Sake Museum (金陵の郷), 623 Kotohira-cho, 087-773-4133, [1]. M-F 9AM-4PM, Sat 9AM-6PM. This museum describes the various stages in sake production. The exhibits are mostly in Japanese, but there are leaflets in other languages at the entrance to explain the process. Admission ¥310. At the end, generous shots of sake are available for ¥100.  edit
  • Marine Science Museum (海の科学館), 953 Kotohira-cho, 087-773-3748, [2]. 9AM-5PM (last entry 4:30PM). Highlights include a restored vessel from the Edo period along with all sorts of radio-controlled boats, bridges, and musings about man's relationship with the sea. Adults ¥450, children ¥350.  edit
  • Museum of History (歴史民俗資料館), 758-1 Kotohira-cho, 087-773-5586. 9AM-5PM. A good match with a visit to Kanamaru-za (see below), this museum showcases local folkcraft, including plenty of kabuki costumes and props. ¥200.  edit

Do[edit][add listing]

  • Konpira Kabuki (旧金毘羅大芝居), 1241 Otsu, Kotohira-cho, 087-773-3846, [3]. Tours W-M 9AM-5PM, performances by schedule. Built in 1835, this kabuki playhouse is the oldest remaining in Japan. It was designated an Important Cultural National Property in 1970. You can get a surprising amount of access to almost the entire theater, including the elevated walkway, trapdoor, revolving stage, and actors' changing rooms. English pamphlets are available. ¥500 adults, ¥300 students.  edit

  • Konpira Onsen (こんぴら温泉郷 琴参閣), 685-11 Kotohira-cho, 087-775-1000, [4]. 11:30AM-4PM. Stop in if you need a soak after the walk up to Kompira-san — or, if you're really sore, switch your accommodations to one of the several hotels that comprise this hot spring "village". Adults ¥1200, children ¥630.  edit

Buy[edit][add listing]

From the moment you step off the train, you'll be hit by yellow advertisements for magical Konpira amulets at ¥800 a pop, available throughout the shrine.

Eat[edit][add listing]

Kagawa prefecture is famed for its Sanuki udon wheat noodles, and you'll find no shortage of shops hawking them on the road and stairway to the shrine. Kotohira's very own style is less than innovatively composed by pouring soy and bonito flakes on top of your noodles.

  • Kasuga Sushi (春日鮨), 457-3 Enai, 087-773-3591, [5]. F-W 11:30AM-2PM, 5PM-11PM. Nice sushi restaurant. Conger eels are a specialty. Set lunch ¥1050, set dinners ¥1995.  edit
  • Naniwa Cake Shop (浪花堂餅店), 586-4 Kotohira-cho, 087-775-5199. 8:30AM until they're sold out. Established in 1866 and run by five generations of the same family, Naniwa bakes fresh sweets daily. Bean cakes and rice cakes are specialties, but there are several varieties to try. ¥600 for five pieces.  edit

Drink[edit][add listing]

Konpira Beer is the local microbrew.

Sleep[edit][add listing]

Most people choose to day-trip from Takamatsu or Okayama, but there are plenty of options in town. If you don't have any other arrangements (and you're not on a tight budget), head for the cluster of hotels around the Konpira Onsen.

  • Kotobuki Ryokan (ことぶき), 245-5 Shinmachi, Kotohira-cho, 087-773-3872, [6]. A traditional inn with excellent service, a premium kaiseki dinner (¥2500), and natural hot springs drawn from the Konpira Onsen. Rooms from ¥5000 single, ¥8500 double.  edit
  • Kotohira Kadan (こんぴら温泉 琴平花壇), 1241-5 Kotohira-cho, 087-775-3232, [7]. Established in 1627, this inn was re-opened in 2008 and features a mix of Japanese-style rooms and Western-style suites, views over the river, pubic and private hot springs, and meals ranging from gourmet seafood to the obligatory Sanuki udon. Rooms from ¥17,800 for two people, meals included.  edit
  • Kotohira Riverside Hotel (琴平リバーサイドホテル), 246-1 Kotohira-cho, 087-775-1880 (fax: 087-775-2890), [8]. Includes hot spring. ¥7200~.  edit

Get out[edit]

  • Takamatsu - One of Shikoku's most interesting cities, with its castle and one of Japan's finest gardens, Ritsurin.
  • Marugame - Small but charming castle city close by.
  • Okayama - Home to the beautiful Korakuen Garden, one of Japan's top three gardens, as well as the beginning of the Kibiji District Trail.
  • Kurashiki - Famous for the Bikan Historic District, one of Japan's largest and best preserved historic neighborhoods.
  • Kochi - Far-flung city with its laid back atmosphere, castle, nature, scenic views, and one of Japan's best limestone caves close by.
  • Iya Valley - A mountain valley deep in the heart of Shikoku, famous for its pristine nature.

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