Located some 48 km (30 miles) north of the capital Amman, Jerash is known for the ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa, also referred to as Antioch on the Golden River. It is sometimes misleadingly referred to as the "Pompeii of the Middle East", referring to its size, extent of excavation and level of preservation (though Jerash was never buried by a volcano).
Jerash became an urban center during the 3rd century BC and a member of the federation of Greek cities known as the Decapolis ("ten cities" in Greek). Jerash prospered during the 1st century BC as a result of its position on the incense and spice trade route from the Arabian Peninsula to Syria and the Mediterranean region. Jerash was a favorite city of the Roman emporer, Hadrian, and reached its zenith in AD 130, flourishing economically and socially. The city began to decline in the 3rd century, later becoming a Christian city under the rule of the Byzantine empire. The Muslims took over in AD 635, but the final blow to the city was dealt by Baldwin II of Jerusalem in AD 1112 during the Crusades.
Modern Jerash sprawls to the east of the ruins, sharing the same city wall but little else. Thankfully, the ruins have been carefully preserved and spared from encroachment.
Getting to Jerash is very easy and cost effective on your own and you don't need a tour. You can go to Jerash and back for 2-3 dinars.
From downtown Amman:
Head to the Raghadan Al Seyaha station next to the Roman Theater to catch the #6 Serviis taxi to Tarbabour station (Mujammah al shimal, مجمع الشمال) it's the last stop for the serviis.
At the Tabarbour bus station, frequent buses leave for Jerash when they are full until late afternoon. You should pay exactly 1JD (May 2015). If you start your day early enough, you can take the bus from Amman to 'Ajloun and see the castle. Then take a bus from 'Ajloun to Jerash, while still having plenty of time to spend at Jerash.
When coming back to downtown from Tarbabour station tell the taxi driver you are going to Raghadan Al Seyaha. There is another Raghadan station in Amman that is a few kilometers from downtown so the last stop may be that one!
A private taxi from Amman can be hired for 8 to 10 JD one-way. Expect to pay as much as 40JD for a return trip and taxi driver staying on site while you look around. As always, negotiate the amount beforehand and specify that the price is for the whole taxi and not "per person," which most taxi drivers will try to charge you.
Admission costs 10 Jordanian Dinar (JD, as of April 2016) for all foreign visitors, which includes the Jerash Archaeological Museum. Admission for residents costs 1/2 JD. Summertime hours are 7:30 AM to 7:00 PM; wintertime hours are 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Some initial ruins are outside the core city and are viewable (through the fence) free of charge:
Signs describing the history of each set of ruins have been introduced, and you can pick up a map to orient yourself at the Visitor Centre, located at the entrance to the archaeological park (just south of the Hippodrome and the Arch). The ruins are fairly extensive, but it's not hard to see everything in a matter of hours. Some of the notable sites are:
Roman Army and Chariot Experience Two daily shows at the hippodrome (circus) include Roman Legion tactics, mock gladiator fights, and chariot exhibitions. Just ask and you will be allowed to go on a chariot ride after the show. Admission 10JD. (This was no longer running as of Spring 2015).
Jerash is home to an annual Music and Arts Festival each summer.
Just outside of the archaeological park is a small souq—an outdoor bazaar, of sorts—that provides a well-rounded offering of Jordanian souvenirs and handicrafts. Many of the shop keepers are amiable and are willing to bargain over prices. Local children and teens will try to sell you Roman coins and other small artefacts found on the site. Please refrain from buying from them, as this practice is not legal.
Accommodations in Jerash are sparse ; there are only two options.
There are also two camping options :
Ajlun Castle (also Rabadh Castle), an Islamic fortress, is a mere 10 miles (16 km) from Jerash. The castle is located on the top of a mountain just outside the small city of Ajlun. The castle is an interesting maze of passages and levels, and offers a wonderful view of the surrounding area, northwestern Jordan, and off into Galilee. Ajlun and Jerash make a good combination day; however, most buses travel from Ajlun to Jerash and not the other direction. In the afternoon the buses become infrequent and you run the risk of being left in one of the cities if you do not plan accordingly, especially during Ramadan. If this occurs, stand around across from the police station and you can probably bargain with a private driver to take you back to Amman. From Amman, visiting Aljun and Jerash can be accomplished by taking a taxi to Tabarbour station, then taking a minibus to Ajlun (if not available, minibus to Jerash and upon arrival, immediately switching to a minibus to Aljun). From Ajlun, take a taxi (about 1 JD) to Aljun Castle; taxis do not stay at the Castle, so arranging for a return ride with a taxi driver will save time. Once back in Aljun, minibuses regularly depart for Jerash. When travelling back to Amman, discuss the end point destination. The cost of the mini bus will be about 1 JD or less per ride. Note that at Jerash, service taxi drivers may attempt to lie to you about minibuses are no longer running for the day and these drivers will only transport you to the edge of the Amman metropolitan area, which is at least twice the distance from downtown Amman as Tabarbour station. There are plenty of service taxis going to Amman at the roundabout next to the Hadrian's Gate (1.5D to Amman 2019).