Jaffna
Once the second most populous city in the country, it was ravaged by civil war and neglected. The people are now rebuilding and it is quickly becoming a popular tourist destination for it's tropical island beauty and being less busy than other tourist areas, as well as being very affordable. Your visit to Sri Lanka is not complete without seeing its beaches and interacting with the locals. The locals are highly educated and while some speak English, the language is mostly Tamil. They are very friendly and will try to help even if they can't communicate in your language! In Tamil, hello/bye is "vannakam", thank you is "nandri". Local currency is Sri Lankan Rupees (LKR, SLR, Rs, Ru, ரூ) and there are currency stores available in town. Prices detailed below may not be accurate due to currency value changes. Get in[edit]When to go: Jaffna has an island tropical humid climate with fairly consistent temperatures. Depending on your preference, the hottest months are May - September. The cooler months are from the last week of October till early February. It is also the monsoon rainy season, so you can expect occasional heavy rain fall and even floods. The monsoon showers are warm so it is still manageable. Safety: As any other place when you're travelling be mindful of where you are and your belongings. You will occasionally see army or police patrolling busy intersections or doing security stops. The main hospital is Jaffna Teaching Hospital. Can go through emergency, walk-in, or book for day of appointments. The doctors all speak English. There are many private pharmacies around the town which sell commonly used travel medicines. By plane[edit]While Jaffna does have an airport in Palali, Palali Airport is currently a military base. As of January 2022, it is not open for travel by civilian tourists. It is a sightseeing spot. By bus[edit]There are several public and private bus services operating from Colombo to Jaffna. Costs vary from Rs 900 and up per person. The drive takes half a day (9 hours +) following the A9 motorway which runs through the middle of Sri-Lanka. Colombo - Jaffna bus schedules can be found online. They generally travel inland, stopping at Anuradhapura then Vavuniya, so can also connect from there. Colombo-Vavuniya takes around 4 hours. Can connect easily from Vavuniya to other parts of the Central North (for ex. Mannar). The drive is very scenic and beautiful especially closer to the Jaffna peninsula, so try to leave Colombo early so it will still be daylight when you reach Jaffna and can see the ocean views at sunset. Travellers are advised that bus drivers may frequently switch off air conditioning to save energy and petrol. Do take precautions. By train[edit]Four trains are running between Jaffna and Colombo theoretically taking 6-8 hours (count on 8-10+). New train schedules are online or most up to date in person at the train station. There are observation car seat tickets (Rs 1100 one way), 1st class (Rs 900), 2nd class (Rs 570, reserved Rs 700), and 3rd class (Rs 320, reserved Rs 500). Tickets can be booked up to one month in advance but these train tickets get sold out quickly, especially in holiday season, so book your tickets well in advance. The most popular is the Intercity Express train which is fully air-conditioned and the ticket fare is Rs 1500 per passenger. Most trains offer buffet cars, where you can purchase coffee/tea, cold drinks, and snacks. Jaffna station itself does not have a canteen, so purchase in the shops located in front of the station. Train tickets can be booked in person at Colombo Fort, Kandy, Wellawatte, Vavuniya or Jaffna station. You can reserve your tickets through your SLT landline, Mobitel and Dialog connected mobile phones. No direct online booking option is available as of January 2022. Get around[edit]Once in Jaffna there are several modes of transport. The roads are generally quieter and easier to navigate than bigger Southeast asian cities. If you are lost or need help getting around just ask the locals. By auto (three-wheeler, tuk-tuk)[edit]These are three wheelers which are very common in Southeast Asian countries and are available around the city. Just hold your hand out and wave one down, and they will stop if they are available. These are the quickest way to get around to places. Prices are very variable, depending on duration, they'll charge Rs 100-500. Most are not fitted with a tariff meter, so before you board ask the driver for the price. Can also hire one for the day and they will take you around and wait for you, which is what the locals do. By bus[edit]The cheapest public transport system available to travel in Jaffna and around the peninsula is by bus. Easiest way is to get to Jaffna town bus stand road/depot on Hospital Road, with buses usually leaving every half hour. The buses will say on the front where their final destination is and can also ask the drivers, they are friendly. If you ask, they will also tell you when to get off the bus. Check the price before you board but around Rs 50-100. It is usually very busy (local/private buses will get packed!) and can be a little tricky for new travellers but an interesting experience. By driver[edit]There are for hire private mini-vans and cars, if you need transportation for the whole day. By bicycle[edit]The locals get around on motorbikes, mopeds, scooters or bicycles, which are available for a few hundreds rupees per day at different places/hotels. Especially on the islands, can bike around. In Velanai (on Kayts) can visit different shops, stop by and get an icecream, but wear good sun protection. There are many war-damaged buildings to see. Chaddy beach is good to visit but Casuarina beach (on Karainagar) is more popular for swimming. By ferry[edit]If you need to cross water, there is usually a ferry available and can also take your car/bike on board. Fees are minimal. They usually come every half hour and have a nearby bus stop as well. See[edit][add listing]Nallur Kandaswamy Temple A bustling and beautiful temple which is a must see. Note that you must be barefoot to walk the temple grounds and men will need to remove their shirts to enter the temple. Free entry (temples are usually free access but will have donation boxes if you like, for restoration and upkeep). Nainativu island You need to take the bus number 776 from the bus station (Rs 50). You have around 1h of trip with beautiful landscape. The women are dressed with a lot of colours it's beautiful! Go down at the last stop with everybody (Kurikkaduwan Jetty) and jump in the boat (Rs 50). Half an hour later you will be in front of the temple! It's worth going! Note that the usual ferry route drops you off at Nagadeepa temple (500 m to the south) but departure is from the Nainativu North jetty. One of the most visited of Jaffna’s islands, Nainativu (Nagadeepa in Sinhala), holds an important place in Hindu and Buddhist histories. For the Hindus, the Nagapooshani Amman Kovil, which is referred to in several ancient chronicles as one of 64 Shakthi Peethams located across South Asia – shrines dedicated to Shakthi, the Hindu goddess of power. For the Buddhists, the Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya is worshipped as one of Sri Lanka’s holiest Buddhist sites where the Buddha was said to have once called upon two Naga kings in disagreement with each other. Jaffna Library First built in 1933, the Jaffna Library has long been a symbol of Northern Tamil heritage. It was intentionally set on fire and partially destroyed in the war, losing many valuable ancient Tamil literature, but is beautifully rebuilt now. It is a pleasant escape in the early evening, and closes at 6 PM. As a sign of respect to the culture preserved by this iconic building, visitors must remove their footwear before entering the library. Although most wings are inaccessible to walk-in travellers, you are still able to explore the public areas of the library, along with the beautiful garden that adorns its grounds. Jaffna Fort Some nice views over the peninsula from the Fort. It's not the most incredible Fort in East Asia but is certainly worth a wander round, particularly on a clear day. Look out for the hordes of ravens circling. Free entry. Point Pedro Take a bus from the central bus station (Rs. 68 one-way) to Sri Lanka's most northern point. The journey will take an hour to the town of Point Pedro from which it is a 5 minute walk north to the Point Pedro sign and a small beach. Worth a half-day trip. The red buses marked Point Pedro depart every hour from Jaffna. To the west, the Point Pedro Lighthouse stands in the shadow of a telecommunications tower, while to the east; a concrete flag of Sri Lanka sits at the edge of the shore to indicate your arrival at Sakkotai Cape. Casuarina beach Stretched across the northern perimeter of Karainagar, Casuarina Beach welcomes local and foreign holidaymakers for its wide expanse, shallow waters, and characteristic trees that lend the beach its name. The characteristic shrubbery serves as a compact coastal forest, serving as the ideal spot for some shade from the northern sun. The Karainagar Lighthouse is also located at the eastern tip of the beach, making this shoreline one of the most picturesque in the region. Fort Hammenhiel Not hard to combine with a beach trip, on the southern tip of the same causeway-linked island. It's a former Army fort and prison, now luxury boutique hotel. For Rs 3,000 you get the boat transfers back and forth for maximum 6 people and a tour of the fortifications and former prison cells. Kadurugoda Buddhist Dagoba ruins Temple and Ruins are one of the few remaining Buddhist legacies in the northern province. Paul E. Peiris, the Jaffna Magistrate at 1917, documented nearly 60 gray coral-stone stupas when he discovered the ruins at the turn of the 20th century. Today however, only about 20 stupas remain sprawled across less than an acre of open land under palmyrah trees. Located a half-hour’s drive away from Jaffna, the Kadurugoda Temple and Ruins are found on the outskirts of the city in Kantarodai. Dambakola Patuna Following the arrival of Buddhism to Sri Lanka over 2000 years ago, Sanghamitta, the daughter of ancient Indian emperor Ashoka, landed at the ancient port of Dambakola Patuna with a sacred sapling from the Bodhi Tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment. The Sri Lankan King Devanampiyatissa later used this sapling to plant the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi at Anuradhapura, which today holds the honour of being the oldest surviving human-planted tree in the world. A temple was built here to commemorate the arrival of the sapling, however no remnants of this ancient landmark exist today. The Sri Lankan Navy however, has since built a new temple named the Sri Sangamitta Viharaya, and is one of the key Buddhist landmarks of the northern peninsula. Keerimalai sacred water spring Keerimalai translates to ‘mongoose hill’ in the regional vernacular of Tamil. This refers to the local legend of a sage cursed with a face likened to a mongoose, who was later cured upon immersing themselves in the healing waters of the Keerimalai Sacred Water Spring. Today, the spring remains popular among throngs of local men and boys who splash about in a picturesque ancient pond overlooking the sea. The bathing area for women is separate, and can be found behind the main pond structure. Just next door, is also the Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil – one of Sri Lanka’s sacred Pancha Ishwarams, or shrines dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva, who is worshipped as the destroyer of evil. Dating back over thousands of years, it is said that the same cursed sage established this kovil in gratitude of the adjacent pond’s healing powers. Keerimalai sits at the top edge of Sri Lanka and can easily be coupled with a trip to Dambakola Patuna in one journey. The sacred water spring and Naguleswaram Kovil are also within walking distance of each other, giving you ample time to explore both attractions in all their glory. Idikundu and Nilavarai wells. These are not healing unlike Keerilamai, but have their own 'magic'. Idikundu is so deep that it's hard to see a bottom. The name translates as 'thunder well' as legend has it that lightning created it early 20th century; scientists consider the option of a meteorite strike. Nilavarai is known for having a 'bottomless' stream of water, it never depletes fully not even in the summer-fall (heart of the dry season). Delft Island Although locally known as Neduntivu, Delft Island is still commonly referred to by the name it inherited from the Dutch in colonial Jaffna. Vast, yet largely uninhabited, Delft Island is known for wild horses that roam its coastal plains. Explored best by tuk-tuk, Delft Island also features remnants of a bygone era such as an ancient Baobab tree, a Dutch East India company 'post office' consisting of tens of mail pigeon cages, as well as a dilapidated colonial fort constructed mainly out of coral – much like most of the architecture present on the island. At equal distance between Sri Lanka and India, Delft Island can be reached via a daily ferry that leaves the Kurikkaduwan Jetty, see bus instructions above for Nainativu. The Sri Lanka Navy operates one round-trip service a day – leaving to Delft at 9 AM and returning to Kurikkaduwan at 2:30 PM. Although these ferries are able to hold a maximum of 100 passengers, preference will be given to Delft residents and after that local tourists. It is best option to reserve a full day for combining Neduntivu and Nainativu; first Delft and upon returning there is enough time to catch the (frequent) ferries to Nainativu. And avoid local public holidays, as you might not find a place in the ferry and be forced to hire a private boat which won't come cheap for a 2 x 1 hour trip. Elephant Pass' Not really a day trip from Jaffna but an almost unmissable sight along the main access road. Elephant Pass controls access to the Jaffna Peninsula, therefore it is referred to as the Gateway to Jaffna. It is very crucial as it is on the isthmus connecting the peninsula to the Sri Lankan mainland, and to territory in the Southern Jaffna peninsula. Elephant Pass connects the militarily significant town of Chavakacheri in the Jaffna peninsula to the Sri Lankan mainland (the other route is through the lovely Pooneryn bridge and then on to Mannar). The name is derived from the Dutch East India company days, when elephants were exported to India and transported over this route to the Jaffna peninsula ports. There are nice salterns in the area, a rebuilt railway station, and a monument covering one of the several battles that were fought here during the civil war. Festivals[edit]
Do[edit][add listing]The Nallur Kovil Thiruvizha (festival) is the biggest event in the Jaffna calendar when all the faithful come home to pray and is incredible to see. Sri Lanka Click, No. 447 Stanley Road, Jaffna, ☎ ±99 77 8488800, [1]. Rents bicycles, scooters, motorbikes and organises tours around Jaffna and into the former LTTE heartland. edit Rajah Cinema, Kasthuriyar Road, ☎ 021 2 227334, [2]. One of the oldest cinemas in Jaffna, located near Kasthuriyar Rd - Stanley Rd Junction. They screen movies (mostly Indian) with English subtitles. edit The Old Park, Kandy Road, opposite the YMCA. A public park located by Kandy Road, next to the ruins of Kachcheri. Worth visiting on weekend afternoons when many local middle class families come. On other times it is rather empty and a good place to chill out. There is a small canteen next to the park where you can buy fresh juice (80-100 rupees), ice cream and snacks. edit The Centre for Performing Arts, Main Street, ☎ 021 222 2393. Founded in 1965, The Centre for Performing Arts is Sri Lanka's longest standing organisation using arts for peacebuilding. They use music, dance and drama (including traditional Tamil koothu drama) to support people’s expression of conflict, facilitate healing and encourage them to listen to each other. Occassional and irregular performances by artists from Jaffna and other parts of the island - it is wise to visit personally and ask about the program. Entry free. edit
Buy[edit][add listing]There are many locally produced goods, which make good travel gifts and are available at local markets. Jaffna's iconic and identifiable Palmyrah tree products are very popular and cheap here. Such as jaggery, it's dried roots and handy crafts made of its leaves. Jaffna palmyrah brew (toddy/arrack) is rare but can be sometimes found in local liquor stores. You can find virgin gingelly (sesame)oil, that is extracted using the slow process and very high quality. The signature colourful/gold Tamil silk sarees are sold in Jaffna. Eat[edit][add listing]Sri Lankan Jaffna food is known for its meat and vegetarian flavours. Its usually served on a washed banana leaf, and eaten with your fingers. Chinese rolls dipped in chili sauce are unique in taste over here, if you can handle hot and spicy. Odiyal cool a kind of thick soup can be vegetarian or with seafood. The main base is Odiyal flour. Also, don't miss the Jaffna ice cream, known for its sweetness. You can go to the Malayan Vegetarian Café. 63-year old café where you can have a nice Goat Milk tea with sweets. Or different vegetarian dishes. Served on a banana leaf.
Drink[edit][add listing]The Jaffna locals drink the tap water which is safe. It is underground well water which has a high mineral content and can sometimes have high saline content. For tourists, ideally drink bottled or boiled water if available. Freshly squeezed tropical fruit juice is a must try and available at most places. Coconut water is delicious and refreshing, especially from a young coconut. They can be either orange or green color. It is often sold road side, and they cut the coconut in front of you. Many restaurants sell a cold drink called "Faluda", which is very sweet, made from ice cream, jelly, and a rose syrup milk base. The local alcoholic brew is called toddy, from the coconut or the palmyrah tree. Toddy from the palmyrah tree is sweeter.
Sleep[edit][add listing]
Contact[edit]Get out[edit]Same as Get in. Buses depart to various places around Sri Lanka from the Jaffna central bus stand, including Mannar, Batticaloa Kataragama. Matale, Trincomalee and to Colombo. A full timetable is provided at the inquiries desk of the Jaffna central bus stand, though tickets can only usually be bought on the bus on the day of travel. Kandy - public bus 8 hours Rs400 - there are regular public (red) bus towards Kandy during the day. So don't believe in any of those people telling you that the bus has departed and asking you to ride on his vehicle instead. Trincomalee - public bus 88 departs at 04.00, 04.15, 06.00, 07.00, 11.00, 12.00, 14.15, 16.15 and 19.00, costing around Rs. 250.
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