Eskişehir (pronounced es-KEE-sheh-heer) is a city in the northwestern part of the Central Anatolia in Turkey. The city is home to about 500,000 people and two of Turkey’s biggest universities—Anadolu University and Eskişehir Osmangazi University—therefore the city is widely nicknamed as "students’ city" in Turkey. The name Eskişehir translates to "the old city" in Turkish, a fitting name as the city fully embraces modern life while still maintaining a sense of tradition and ancient values.
The area is inhabited since before the Phrygians founded Doryleaum near today’s Eskişehir. The area to the south of Eskişehir is known as "Phrygian Valley" even today and contains many remnants from Phrygians (some parts of the valley is within the borders of Kütahya and Afyonkarahisar provinces).
Eskişehir is a haven of liberalism in a largely conservative region, which stems from the large student population, as well as the already-progressive-minded culture of refugees from Crimea and Balkans settled in the city in the late 19th century during the decline of Ottoman Empire, descendants of whom constitute most of the native population.
Despite its name, most of the city is new construction, with the oldest buildings being no more than 50 years old, with the prominent exception of the nieghbourhood of Odunpazarı. Since 1999, when Yılmaz Büyükerşen, the former president of Anadolu University, has been elected mayor, the city has a somewhat-imitation Central European feel to it with its bridges, parks, statues, and trams.
The Porsuk River bisects the city all along. The other, non-natural feature that bisects the city is the main Istanbul–Ankara railway, which lies more or less a few blocks north of the river.
Eskişehir is a city with two distinct yet related centres.
The riverside promenade, Adalar (literally "the islands", although this area is technically a part of the mainland, except for a small river island on which the historic building of Tepebaşı City Council stands), and the pedestrianized Doktorlar Caddesi (officially İsmet İnönü Caddesi), just north of Adalar, with a tram line in the middle is the centre of youth life in Eskişehir. The natural extension of Doktorlar Caddesi towards northwest, past a bridge over the rail tracks and Espark shopping mall, Üniversite Caddesi, which leads to the Yunusemre Campus of Anadolu University, marks the northwestern extent of student territory.
Southeast from Adalar is Hamamyolu, another pedestrianized street with a large leafy strip in the middle—or a linear park, you might say. This is the old city centre and where locals and families rather to hang out and go shopping. At the southeastern end of Hamamyolu is Odunpazarı, the Ottoman district.
Adalar and Hamamyolu meet at Köprübaşı ("the bridgehead"), marked by the bridge on which the tram line crosses Porsuk.
Like any other part of the Anatolian highland, the winters are cold and usually snowy. Temperature is regularly below the freezing point during this season, but it rarely drops below -15° C. Thanks to the low levels of relative humidity, the hot and dry summers are more comfortable than coastal regions of Turkey. Summer nights are cool, though, so be sure to bring at least a cardigan with you to wear outdoors. Spring and autumn are the wettest seasons, but with an annual rainfall amount of 415 mm (i.e., a semi-arid climate), you are unlikely to get much wet during your trip to Eskişehir, anyway.
Fly to Istanbul Sabiha Gokcen airport, take taxi or bus 10 km to Pendik station, then YHT train (as below) to Eskişehir. YHT connections are also possible from Ankara or Konya airports. Eskişehir’s own airport is close to town but has very few commercial flights, beyond an occasional charter to Brussels.
Eskişehir is near the junction of Turkey’s high speed railway system (YHT), with frequent fast trains to Istanbul, Ankara and Konya. The trains from Istanbul currently leave from Pendik some 25 km east of city centre: take the metro to Kartal then bus 251 or taxi the last 5 km to Pendik and allow 2 hours. The train from Pendik to Eskişehir takes 2½ hours, with 8 per day, mostly continuing to Ankara.
To Ankara there are 11 trains per day, taking 90 minutes. (Although Ankara railway station is partially closed for rebuilding, this is not expected to affect YHT services to Eskişehir, Istanbul or Konya.) To Konya there are two trains a day taking 90 minutes; change there for buses to Antalya, and to Karaman with an onward train to Adana.
There is also an overnight sleeper taking 11 hours to Izmir (shown on Turkish timetables as Alsancak) and a daily train takes 6 hours to Denizli, for Pamukkale (formerly as a sleeper, but now a day train).
Buses to Bursa (2¼ hours) connect at Eskişehir with the YHT trains.
The railway station is in the modern part of town, 5 km north of the old quarter.
Eskişehir lies on the highway D200/E90, which connects Bursa, a major city in the northwest, with Ankara, the national capital. From Istanbul, take D100 or the toll-road O-4/E80 eastwards to Adapazarı first, and then hit the southwards D650 there. In Bozüyük, take D200/E90 to east. Most of the route from Istanbul is up to motorway standards with segregated directions, except some short sections under construction through the valley of Sakarya River.
An alternative route from Istanbul is to take the Budo ferry from Kadikoy to Mudanya (six per day, 1 hour 50 mins) then bus, taxi and metro to Bursa Otogar (allow an hour) then bus to Eskişehir.
The city has a 2-line tram system. Of which you can buy a ticket of 1.90 TL per person and per trip and you can ride from bus station to city center. The Odunpazari houses and glass museum of modern art are at the Ataturk High school stop of Bus station line of tram. its 30 minutes walk to city center. Minibuses and public buses cover the rest. City also has a small fleet of 19th century-looking horse-drawn carriages, and a large taxi fleet. At almost anywhere on the large streets, you’ll see buttons (looking like electric switches) hanged on walls, trees etc. To call a cab, you need only to push one of those and the nearest taxi stop will soon send a taxi to where you have pushed it. But walking is probably the best way of transportation in this largely flat city, it is free of charge and the distances aren’t that huge.
While Eskişehir is not like Amsterdam, it is one of the most bike-friendly cities for Turkish standards. Some bike rentals may be found in the center. There is also a new smart bike system but not practical to use.
Eskişehir is known for its hamams (Turkish bath), although there seems to be no particular reason for this fame. There are some baths in the city centre, dating back to Ottoman period. Upon entrance you’ll be asked to put off your shoes and wear the slippers provided. Then you’ll put off all your clothes and wrap yourself in one of the large towels provided. A locker for clothes is provided. Have a through shower and wash your hair before entering the marble hot tub area. Don’t let soapy water leak into the communal pool, if you’ll also have a soapy scrub next to it. Staying more than one hour in the hot section is not advised (especially for the first time) as the very hot air and steam inside can cause the blood pressure to rise considerably. Once you’re done in the hot tub, you’ll be wrapped in the dry room all over your body and head, and asked what drink you’d like. Although never that pricey, the fee of this drink isn’t included in entrance fee, and you don’t have to drink anything if you don’t want to. Usually having a lemon soda is recommended, though, as it’s thought to lower the blood pressure back to normal level.
Entrance is about 5 YTL/person, massage costs a further 5 or 10 YTL (of course it’s not compulsory to have a massage and pay another fee just because you entered the bath if you don’t want to), towels are provided for free, shampoo and soap are provided for 0.50 or 1 YTL each. The price is not hourly, i.e. you can stay inside as long as you like (remember the ‘no-more-than-one-hour-for-the-first-time’ rule, though).
Women and men have separate sections (and enter the building from separate gates).
Anadolu University participates in pan-European university student exchange programs.
Osmangazi University abbreviated as ESOGU.
As you would expect from a big city, there are many ATMs around and credit cards are accepted in most places.
Because of the relatively large university student population, the city centre, especially streets leading to or running parallel with the Porsuk River are teeming with local and American-style fast food restaurants and pizzerias.
Local delicacies include:
Dünya Köfte (Universitie cd, between Özbek sk and Balkan sk) - part kofte shop, part butcher serves the delicious spicy kofte that you imagine when you think of middle eastern kofte. The butcher shop may put some off, but you know that the meat is fresh! Some English speaking staff.
Abdüsselam Balaban (Arifiye Mh. Belediye Sk. 63/7 (Behind the Eskişehir Municipal) - meatball and kebab restaurant at city centre. Restaurant makes one of the best balaban in town.
Pino - one of the oldest (1978) fast-food restaurant in Eskişehir.
Since it is a usual habit for university students to binge drink and to pub crawl, there are many bars, pubs, clubs, and discos scattered around the city. It is usually possible to attain a live music performance at weekends.
Several pubs in the riverbank of porsuk and the clubs near train station offers a good night, and also an opportunity to know local students.
Some pubs by genres:
Bulvar Hostel / Eskisehir (Sivrihisar-1 Cd. No:16, entrance from Porsuk Riverside) - Brand new hostel with dorms and privates, taras café has really good view. Owner guy is a brilliant world traveller, he has been to many countries then decides to open his own hostel in his own town. Breakfast is ok, you can also cook yourself at the kitchen. There is a Tram Stop in front of the hostel. It is in downtown but really quiet in some rooms. Building has two faces one side looks at the Porsuk river and the other side has the view of City Center. Reaching from Bus Station is so easy by Tram line and from Train Station a few minutes of walk by Porsuk Riverside only pedestrian lane. The boat tours main stop is only a few meters from the hostel and you can watch the boats passing in front of your room, that was really an unforgettable experience. Rooms have good prices regarding hotel's location, cleanlines, sleeping quality & qualified multiligual workers. You can buy meerschaum pipes & souvenirs from reception.
SRF Hotel is a rather small hotel with only few rooms, some non smoking and all newly furnished. This small hotel has no elevator and considering some rooms can be in up to fourth floor, this is a real pity, so better clarify this at the time of the booking. Hotel is located rather central in a quite but well kept Istiklal suberb in Reşadiye Esnafi street.
Tourism information office – Vilayet Sq 1, tel +90 222 230 38 65
The area code of Eskişehir is 222. Dial +90 222 when calling an Eskişehir number from out of Turkey.
The city’s large university student population makes it a place quite easy to communicate in English, although local older generations may only speak Turkish. Also you may encounter youngsters with an ability to speak less widespread European languages such as German or French, though this is much less possible compared with English.