Enoshima (江ノ島) is both a small island and a small seaside town next to the island in Kanagawa prefecture, to the south of Tokyo. It's a popular beach destination and, on a nice summer day, has a bit of a laid-back California surfer vibe.
From Narita Airport, Enoshima is reachable in as little as 2 hours if you're lucky to catch a Narita Express limited express train that travels to Ofuna station; this costs ¥4500, or ¥3500 with the Suica & N'EX combination ticket sold to foreigners at Narita Airport. From Ofuna, Enoshima is 15 minutes away on the Shonan Monorail (¥300).
From Haneda Airport you will have to take at least three lines: The Keikyu Line to Yokohama, the JR Tokaido Line to Ofuna, and the Shonan Monorail to Enoshima. Costing ¥1060, this will get you to Enoshima in one hour with good connections.
You can take the private Odakyu line from Shinjuku to Fujisawa (54 minutes via kaisoku-kyūkō (快速急行) or 66 minutes via kyūkō (急行)), then change onto the rattling old Enoden (江ノ電) half-train/half-streetcar line to Enoshima. The Enoshima-Kamakura Free Pass (¥1,430) will get you a roundtrip from Shinjuku and unlimited use of the Enoden line for one day.
If you don't want to experience the vintage Enoden, you also have the option of taking the Odakyu all the way to Katase-Enoshima (片瀬江ノ島) station, which is the closest location to the main beaches and the island of Enoshima. There are not too many direct trains from Shinjuku; however, a connection at Sagami-Ono or Fujisawa is easy and convenient (you walk about 10m to the other side of the platform).
For a small extra charge you can take the all-reserved limited express "Romance Car" train direct from Shinjuku to Katase-Enoshima. The service to Enoshima is called, appropriately, Enoshima (えのしま), with some weekday services from Shinjuku also known as Home Way (ホームウェイ). Be warned that many of these trains are coupled to services bound for Hakone, which split at Sagami-Ono. There are more Romance Car trains to and from Enoshima on weekends and holidays than there are on weekdays.
The one-way fare from Shinjuku to Katase-Enoshima on the Odakyu Line is ¥1210 for the Romance Car, and ¥610 for regular services. Users of the above-mentioned free pass can upgrade to the Romance Car for ¥600 each way.
If you have a Japan Rail Pass, you can reach Fujisawa by taking a Tokaido Line from Tokyo (about 50 minutes) or a Shonan-Shinjuku line train from Shinjuku (about 50 minutes) at no charge, then pay the fee for the Enoden. A better, faster and more exciting way is to take the Tokaido or Shonan Shinjuku Line and change in Ofuna (大船）to the Shonan Monorail （湘南モノレール）, one of the few hanging monorails, that will take you directly to Enoshima（湘南江ノ島）in about 20 min. They don't accept Suica/Pasmo, so you have to buy a ticket, ¥350 each way.
JR East offers the Enoshima-Kamakura Excursion Ticket,  which allows unlimited rides in the Kamakura/Enoshima area on JR, Enoshima Electric Railway and the Shonan Monorail. The pass lasts for one day and costs ¥680.
Passengers coming from the south can take the Yokosuka JR line to Kamakura then change to the Enoden (江ノ電) half-train/half-streetcar line that goes to Enoshima or continue 2 stops past Kamakura, changing at Ofuna to the hanging monorail noted above.
Both train stations and the monorail station are within 10 minutes of the beach. The Enoden station & hanging monorail station are 1/2 block from each other and 3 blocks of the beach and causeway leading to the island Enoshima (exit left from both stations). The Katase-Enoshima station is only one block from beach and causeway; exit right.
Enoshima is serviced by Route 467 from Fujisawa and Route 134 from Odawara or Zushi. Both roads are narrow, crowded and slow, especially on weekends. The nearest expressways are the Yokohma Shindo and the Yokohama-Yokosuka road, both over 10km away. Parking is available but expensive. Motorbikes can usually park anywhere and will not attract police attention unless they are in the way.
Buses and taxis cross the causeway to the base of the island, but often are delayed in heavy summer or weekend traffic. It's easier just to walk from the station.
There is often a small, walk-on ferry that runs back & forth between the causeway and the back of the island (near the caves). It takes 5 minutes, costs about ¥ 400 and will save approximately 45 minutes walking time making it possible to see all the sights the island has to offer in one day.
Most pathways in Enoshima the island only allow foot traffic but are easily reached on foot. There are many stairs, high slopes and hills in Enoshima but it is possible to take an escalator called Enoshima Escar just to the left of the first, red torii gate. It costs ¥ 300 to go up (but you'll need to walk downstairs to go back down), open 9:00~17:00.
Enoshima is blessed with the abundant beauty of nature and sea. Enoshima's many sights are concentrated on the island of Enoshima itself, in front of the beach and the modern town.
Enoshima Shrine (江島神社 Enoshima-jinja). 2-3-8 Enoshima. Best known for its rather unusual naked statue of Benzaiten (裸弁財天 hadaka Benzaiten), a Shinto deity rarely found in such a state.
The shrines at the top of Enoshima 2 chome have an all seeing turtle painted on the ceiling.
The Points located on the backside of Enoshima near the cave are a sight worth seeing. Tidal pools brim with crabs and trapped fish. The backside of Enoshima is the local fishing secret.
Lovers Bell at the park in 2 chome.
For things to see off the island, there are fireworks in summer at the beach. Every year, about 5,000 fireworks are displayed in late July or in early August. A local radio station announcer will be hosting the display. Many small booths would be lined up on the streets and you can get food and drinks on that day.
Along the beach there is also the Enoshima Aquarium (江ノ島水族館 Enoshima-suizokukan). The aquarium has a decent collection of marine life, and a dolphin show. However, you can expect the aquarium to be very crowded on hot summer days!
The small island of Enoshima is attached to the mainland by a causeway and is the main tourist attraction. Two bridges - one for cars, the other for foot and bicycle traffic - provide the main access.
Tourists come to this island to walk the pathways that lead to several ancient temples, botanical garden, museums, parks, scenic overlooks, and a modern lighthouse at the top of the island. If you are not in great shape for the stairs and hills, escalators are available for a fee (and a 700 yen ticket includes fee for lighthouse elevator).
The classic view of Mt. Fuji as depicted in Japanese art can be seen from Enoshima on clear days (best season for viewing is winter). Giant hawks called tombe fill the skies, squawking and diving. Nature is abundant on the island.
The island is surrounded by high sea cliffs, rocks and tidal pools. The pounding surf and rocks make swimming at the island rather suicidal but many people walk across the exposed rocks, exploring the tidal pools and crab pots. At the end of the pathways at the 'back of the island' are ancient caves to explore. One cave network contains religious object, historical photographs and an automated fire-breathing dragon. The token entrance fee includes quaint, candle lanterns carried to light up danker portions of the cave.
The main pathways lead to all the places of interest and go over the top of the island to the backside. Be warned that it can be a steep hard walk (especially in summer heat) for some and (apart from the boat service) the only way is by foot. The boat service leaves from the back of the island (near the caves and rock pools). The boat is manned by an old fishermen who manually operates the rudder. This quirky boat service operates at various times, with regular pick up services during the busy summer months (every 15 minutes) to no service or a completely unreliable service during low season or inclement weather.
There are plentiful services (cafes, restrooms, vending machines, etc.) throughout the island.
During summer the mainland and beach areas of Enoshima city is all about sea sports; particularly surfing, sailing and jet boating. The surf here isn't great by most standards, but during Summer it is the place to be seen for the trendy younger crowd as it is conveniently close to Tokyo, providing an excuse for tens of thousands of funky Japanese to strut around with bleached hair and chocolate-bronze skin.
Summer starts 1 July and finishes end of August at area beaches. During this season there are dozens of beach huts serving a range of average food at average prices. However, they make a great escape from the heat and a good places to appreciate the view. They also offer showers, locker & beach equipment rentals.
During summer the sand can get very dirty with 'gomi' (garbage) littering the beach.
During other months, the Enoshima beaches become much quieter, cleaner and peaceful.
Enoshima has a big yacht harbor. Many cruisers are docked there and many university clubs have their boats moored at this spot. However there are no boat rentals from this location although jet ski rentals are possible with the Japanese recreation craft license.
The street that leads from the Enoden and Monorail Station (just take a left as you walk out of the Enoden station) to the beach has souvenir shops and surfer accessories shops. In the same street you will find a Natural Lawson convenience store.
The street on the island that leads up to the shrine has also the typical souvenir shops including a post office and ice cream shops, but the real specialities can be found right when you leave the bridge: grilled and fresh seafood in every variation is sold there. It's a bit like the Tokyo fishmarket in small if you look at all those creatures that can apparently be eaten.
Many visitors come to Enoshima to eat seafood. One of the famous dishes is called shirasu-don(small raw fish on a bowl of rice). The turban shell, or sazae, is also popular. Reasonably priced (by Japan/Tokyo/beachfront standards) meals are readily available at the many beach houses in the summer, but these places are disassembled promptly at the beginning of September.
The area also has purple soft-serve ice cream (often sweet potato or sakura-flavored), and there are dozens of different soft-serve flavors you'll never see in the United States among the many different shops on the island.
On the island itself there are several restaurants with breathtaking views.
Enjoy a "cold one" during the summer months of July & August at one of the many beach houses that pop-up on the area beaches. During heat of the day you can quench your thirst with a very good and cool drink from these beach houses which are plentiful. You can also bring drinks to the beach from one of several convenience stores (known as Konbinis) nearby. In this area, many of the beach houses close at sunset, but you can still enjoy Enoshima by walking along the beach or going to one of the many good bars and restaurants across from the beach, too. Such as:
Enoshima is an easy day trip from the Tokyo/Yokohama area, but an assortment of hotels are available in the beach area.
In Japan there are hotels for couples, called "Love Hotels", so you need some courage to get in there by yourself. There are many of these in the area: