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Ely (England)

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Ely [1] is a small, historical cathedral city in Cambridgeshire, England.


Built on a chalk hill, the city is thought to be named after the eels in the nearby River Ouse. The hill was once an inaccessible island in the middle of the Fens. It was also the last stronghold of Anglo-Saxon resistance, under Hereward the Wake who hid in the original cathedral until the Normans crossed the Fens in 1071.

Despite the transformation of the surrounding lanscape from watery marshland to fertile farmland, and the continuing growth of nearby Cambridge, Ely's character as a tiny, isolated city remains largely untouched, and the "Ship of the Fens" dominates the surrounding landscape in much the same way it has done for most of the past millenium.

Get in[edit]

By train[edit]

Ely is a major junction of a number of lines and so it's possible to enter and exit from a large number of directions.

Ely has direct trains to London Kings Cross, Stansted Airport, Ipswich, Norwich, Kings Lynn, Peterborough, and via Peterborough to Birmingham and Liverpool. You can also connect at Peterborough for fast trains to Scotland.

If you want to get to London, then it is quicker to go to London Kings Cross (70 minutes) with the train running non-stop after Cambridge, although tickets to London Liverpool Street station are a bit cheaper. The latter journey will take about 90 minutes via Hertford North (transferring at Cambridge).

Trains depart Ely to both Liverpool Lime Street and London Liverpool Street Station. Be careful as they are 200 miles apart!

By car[edit]

Ely is situated on the A10, some 16 miles north of Cambridge, where it is possible to join the M11 for fast access to/from London (72 miles). Nearby roads may be flooded in the winter (typically the A1123 at Earith, and A1101 at Welney). Many of the smaller roads across the Fens have uneven surfaces and unguarded ditches, which lead to a number of fatalities each year.

For information about the free saturday run park and ride service, see National Park and Ride Directory

By bicycle[edit]

For the more adventurous it is possible to cycle into Ely from Cambridge [2]. The 16 mile journey follows the river and for an average person takes around an hour and a half, with the majority of the route being a designated cycle path.

Get around[edit]

Ely's small city centre can easily be traversed on foot. Local villages are served by buses running from Market Street, check the boards or tourist information centre for departures.

See[edit][add listing]

  • Ely Cathedral [3] - founded by St Ethelreda as a monastery church in 673, the present cathedral building was started in the 11th century and upgraded to a separate diocese in 1109. The cathedral has a unique octagonal tower and lantern, completed in 1328 after the collapse of the original Norman tower. Enquire inside for a tours up the west tower for fantastic panoramic views.
  • Stained Glass Museum [4] - located in the South Triforium of Ely Cathedral.
  • Oliver Cromwell Museum [5] - situated in Oliver Cromwell's house opposite the cathedral, including tours of the building and a history of the fens.
  • Littleport Show Unfortunately cancelled in 2011, this is a great country show four miles down the road/trainline in Littleport. Many a large marrow and penny farthing to see, and in the past an adult's play area made from hay bails has been known to be erected in the beer tent(s). If you win a coconut, don't eat it, you'll be in bed for days.
  • Wicken Fen [6] - fenland National Trust nature reserve between Ely and Cambridge
  • Welney Wildfowl Centre [7] - Wildfowl Wetlands Trust bird sanctuary. The visitor centre and café were upgraded in 2006.
  • Abominable Brown Building Stand outside the Ely Weekly News office and look towards the cathedral to see the hideous building spoiling the quaint market-cathedral view in all it's brown brick glory. Knock it down! Just hope that Bent and Cornwell (an excellent butcher's shop) has time to relocate first. The public toilets used to be located on the west side opposite the Nationwide bank. They're boarded up but who knows that's down there.

Do[edit][add listing]

Eat[edit][add listing]


  • TESCO 24 hours weekdays next to the train station.
  • The Hereward 45 Market Street, tel +44 1353 772050. A large pub. Advertises cheap food. Only allows people aged 18 or over. Hit the headlines when they banned an 82 year old for wearing a hat indoors, so that they can record any trouble on CCTV [8].
  • The Minster Tavern The Gallery. The beer-soaked walls, floors and seats of the Minster are also a place to enjoy a cheap bite to eat. Nothing remarkable, but it's possibly the cheapest pub food in town and have "and beer" nights where you can enjoy a curry, grill or Sunday roast with a free pint depending on the day. For your information, the Sunday roast is available on Sunday. Snacks from £2.
  • The Business Market Square, Thursday and Saturdays only. This beautifully greasy van has been making Ely smell like burgers on market days since the Vietnam War (start of), and looks set to outlast religion. All sorts of sausage, burger, chicken, bacon, egg and cheese combinations. £2-4.
  • Caitlins sandwich bar High Street. This little sandwich shop opened in 2010 and does a wide variety of sandwiches to suit all tastes and special meal deals with drinks. A little bit more expensive than a packaged one from Boots, but they're great, particularly the crayfish and rocket with lemon mayo.


  • Pizza Express 43 High Street, tel +44 1353 665999, [9]. The Ely branch of this reliable pizza chain. Pizzas £6-£8. Average meal for two £20 with a drink. Vouchers all over the place on the internet so you could get a bargain.
  • Prezzo 12-14 High Street, tel +44 1353 659832, [10]. Italian style pizza, pasta and chicken. Opened in December 2006, with views across to the Cathedral. Pizzas £6-£8. Average meal for two £20 with a drink. Lots of space over two floors. Quaint views of the collapsed northern wing of the Cathedral and maybe a couple of local baddies drinking on the grass below. Stone them with your bread heels.
  • Five Miles from Anywhere (No Hurry Inn) Located in Upware/Wicken/Arse End-of-Nowhere (Seriously, just get to Stretham, turn left, cross the train line, and turn right...somewhere), this place does great pub food and beers. All sorts of A4 sized post-it notes advertise gigs on the small stage in the huge outdoor beer garden. The food is very good, the beer is very reasonable and the amphitheatre-like bowl of grass seems to perfectly amplify hungover farts and loud swearing, if that's your scene. Highly recommended, and more reasonable in terms of price than the Lazy Otter, where staff will be happy to tell you that it's "advisable to book in advance" to show how popular and overpriced they really are.
  • The Cutter Inn 42 Annesdale, tel +44 1353 662713, [11]. A riverside pub which was refurbished in 2006. Traditional Pub Food, Bar Snacks & daily Specials Board. Very overpriced sadly, with food which comes nowhere near what you're paying for. True quality is one minute away at the Boathouse. Seriously, their £8.95 'Thai Red Curry' tastes like vaguely spicy tomato soup and is confusingly served with a naan bread and mango chutney. Clueless. Plus points? It's quite clean, the gents are nice, there's water next to it.
  • The Maltings Ship Lane, tel +44 1353 662633, [12] - an exhibition centre, bar and restaurant. Sandwiches, bar snacks and main courses for £8. Used to have semi-regular gigs but they seemed to dwindle out after somebody ate the treasured Jaffa Cakes of Bury St. Edmunds' own 'Miss Black America'. Bigger names have been coming recently, including Rich Hall. Check [13] for listings.


  • The Old Fire Engine, 200 m from the Cathedral, tel +44 1353 662582, [14]. A relaxed restaurant for lunch, dinner as well as morning coffee and afternoon tea. There is a homely sitting room and an art gallery upstairs and the garden is lovely in good weather. The main courses at lunch cost approximately £15 and are generally very good. They also offer second helpings!
  • The Boathouse, 5-5A Annesdale, tel +44 1353 664388 [15]. Nice riverside location in a converted boathouse, with some outdoor seating. The building is nothing special architecturally, but the food is great. Main courses are about £10 at lunch, £15 in the evening. Set 3-course menu at lunch and possibly dinner for £16 is very good value. PERMANENTLY CLOSED.
  • Peacocks Tearoom, 65 Waterside, Ely near the river, tel +44 1353 661100, [16]. Winner of the UK Tea Council’s Top Tea Place 2007. Afternoon tea is £12 per person, including a choice of 40 teas, finger sandwiches, scones with jam and cake.

Drink[edit][add listing]

  • The Minster Tavern, Directly across from Cathedral entrance. Generally inexpensive drinks (£2.00 for a Tennant's Lager up to £3.00 for a Guinness). One of the oldest pubs in town with lots of character, including its very own ghost (a Benedictine monk who likes ale). Can be quiet during the day, generally busiest Fridays and Saturdays pre-10pm and post-midnight.
  • The Royal Standard, Slightly out of the way down the hill from the market square (although distance is hardly an issue in Ely!), the Standard is great fun on Fridays and Saturdays in particular with fun cover bands and a charismatic, Hawaiian short wearing landlord. Beer is relatively inexpensive and the back of the pub has been extended so the place is now an odd mix of traditional pub and old people's home.
  • The Town House, On Market Street opposite the Hereward, the clientele and atmosphere of the pub is very variable depending on the day of the week. During the week, in particularly in summer it is a nice place to enjoy a drink outside. On Fridays, Saturdays and occasionally Sundays the pub is so busy it operates a one-in, one-out policy so expect a queue after 10:30pm, but in a group it can be worth it for a fun night. Great during events such as the World Cup with a BBQ outdoors and the beer festival in July is a MUST in terms of pub beer festivals.
  • The Prince Albert, Half way down Silver Street is the former "Best pub in Ely". Recently under new management from the pub's former cook, the Albert still holds the vote of many for the highest standard of beer in Ely, particularly Greene King. The beer garden is lovely in summer, although it's not been as floral since the takeover. Food is great, and the pub still retains it's living room feel. Not the best place in the world for a large group of people, but much better choice than the Fountain on a pub crawl.
  • The Hereward, A functional drinking barn on the Market Street, this place is like any chain pub in any city, with little atmosphere but everything you may need a hand. Formally the hardware store Cutlacks, the pub offers relatively cheap food which is variable in quality, live sport, and occasional karaoke and bands. Best avoided on Fridays and Saturdays unless you're starting a bit of a party (in which case the Town House is conveniently located across the street for the conclusion!). Worth noting that the occasional beer festivals there are great, with inexpensive guest ales served at one end of the bar.
  • The Fountain, South end of town (1 Silver Street, near Barton Square). Good real ale and nice interior, but very pricy (£3.90 for a pint!). Possible pre-requisite for entry is being a bit of a dick (!) Take two minutes to walk further up Silver Street to the Albert.

Sleep[edit][add listing]

  • Travelodge [17] has cheap rates if you book in advance (as low as £15). The Ely Travelodge is at the A10/A142 junction, which is convenient for motorists, but noisy and a mile from the centre. There is a small Budgens supermarket nearby for cheap self catering.
  • The Lamb Hotel Can't miss it if you drive into Ely from Cambridge, as the old A10 road makes a sharp left in front of it before meandering on to Littleport. Looks posh, and is about 100 yards from the Cathedral. You may find it difficult to park during the day.
  • Braham Farm (campsite) [18], 1.5 miles south of Ely on the A10, tel +44 1353 662386 - Barely marked junction. Don't get it confused with the Two Acres Campsite (at Little Thetford) (which REALLY smells bad, is expensive, has a grumpy owner and is noisy). The Braham farm campsite is run by a friendly couple, it's far enough from the road not to be noisy, and is closer to Ely. It's got a footpath to Ely from it. It's got a good view of the cathedral too. Quite small (will need to book on summer weekends maybe?). Lovely! (Note: Quite basic; No shower facilities).
  • Various Bed&Breakfast establishments can be found in the city. A web search should turn up a vacancy. Most are within walking distance from the train station.
  • The Tree There's a tree in the middle of Cherry Hill Park (behind the Cathedral) which is a great place to sleep during the day, however at night the area can sometimes be populated by intimidating local youths and your slumber may be disturbed.

Get out[edit]

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