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El Jem

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El Jem is a small town in the east of Tunisia that holds the remains of a UNESCO World Heritage listed Roman amphitheater.

The Roman amphitheater at El Jem.

Understand[edit]

El Jem was formerly the Roman town of Thysdrus, one of the most important towns in North Africa after Carthage (now to be found in the suburbs of modern Tunis). The amphitheater was built around the middle of the third century AD and was thought to house up to 35,000 spectators.

Having fallen into some state of disrepair, its blocks being used for building the surrounding town and also contributing to the Great Mosque in Kairouan, the amphitheatre was declared a World Heritage site in 1979. More recently it has been used for filming some of the scenes from the films Life of Brian and Gladiator.

Get in[edit]

El Jem is more or less equidistant from Sousse and Sfax. Lying just off the main road and on the train line that links those two towns, it can easily be visited as a day trip from either, or as a broken journey between them.

  • By train - A return ticket from Sousse or Sfax should be around TND10, and take around one hour. You can see the top of the amphitheatre from beyond the trees opposite the train station. The staff at the site entrance will happily mind your luggage, as will any cafe owner who you patronise.

A one-way 1st class ticket from Tunis Ville to El Djem costs TND 13.950 (09.06.2015).

  • By car - head south from Sousse (north from Sfax) for about 1 hour; the amphitheater is clearly visible as you approach the town and the turn off well signed. The drive from Tunis takes about 3 hours along a good highway with tolls.
  • By taxi - one of the most expensive options, this gives you the most flexibility. Either arrange a time for your driver to return or ask him to wait for you. Arrange a price before setting out, and expect to pay 50 Dinar or higher for a return from Sousse or Sfax.

Get around[edit]

El Jem is a small town and everything that may be of interest to the visitor can be reached on foot.

Train is also a very convenient method. The trains are comfortable and the travel is short. One would be able to take an early morning train from Tunis, see El Jem and take the afternoon train back to Tunis. All in a day and you would have some spare time to tool around in Tunis as well.

See[edit][add listing]

The amphitheatre dominates the modern town, and was also featured in several scenes of the film Life of Brian.

As at May 2014 entry cost TND10, plus 1 for photography, and includes entry to the nearby archaeological museum. The amphitheatre closes at 5:30 PM in the Winter, and 7:00 PM in the Summer.

The museum contains a large selection of mosaics and a restored Roman villa, with all the mosaics in place and gives a real feel for their style of living. Adjoining this is the rest of this area of Roman Thysdrus, with the streets and floor plans laid out over a large area showing the variations to the house and villa plan.

The amphitheatre is best seen at dawn or sunset, and this is also the best time for taking photographs. While the grounds may be closed during sunrise or sunset, photographs of the site from the surrounding streets are certainly possible.

Do[edit][add listing]

Climb to the higher levels of the amphitheater and soak in the views over the surrounding countryside. Or, head down to the basement beneath the center of the arena and view the rooms where the animals for the fights would once would have been caged (this part is much more intact and accessible than the equivalent in Rome's colliseum).

Buy[edit][add listing]

Eat[edit][add listing]

There are a large number of cafes and restaurants around the town and close to the amphitheatre. Some directly around the amphitheatre may be focused on tourists near the entrance of the site but it takes just a short walk to get away from these.

  • Restaurant Elyess - Located just north of the amphitheatre this restaurant offers local dishes with a couple of daily specials on offer. If available try the grilled fish and rabbit pasta. Dishes are about TD 10 to 15.
  • Restaurant Le Bonheur - Comes highly recommended. Located just near Hotel Julius to the south of the amphitheatre.

A supermarket (super-merche) is on the main road between the train station and the amphitheater.

Drink[edit][add listing]

There are many places to drink tea, espressos and fresh orange juice and people watch. Cafe Bacchus has a lot of character and a view of the amphitheatre.

Sleep[edit][add listing]

Accommodation options are severely limited. Most visitors to El Jem visit as a day trip from the nearby towns of Sousse or Sfax. Day trips may be part of an organized tour, or just as easily, by train, louge, or taxi. Staying in El Jem offers a great travel experience with few tourists staying in the town over night.

  • Hotel Julius - A new hotel that offers clean rooms and friendly service at a reasonable price. As of April 2018 a room cost TD 120 for a double including breakfast. The hotel is within walking of the amphitheatre and cafes and restaurants.

Stay safe[edit]

El Jem's street souvenir peddlers are probably the most rude and intrusive in the whole country. Remember that you have absolutely no obligation to buy anything, regardless of how insistent they are. If they put their sale item into your hands and ask for money, refusing to take the item when you hand it back to them, just put the item on the ground and walk away. At worse you will get a rude hiss, but they are not a threat, just an annoyance. Just stay calm and ignore them.

Get out[edit]

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