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Brod

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Brod is a village in Kosovo.

Understand[edit]

Mountains near the restaurant Arxhena (Brod,Kosovo) (2016)

The village is inhabited by the Goranci. The Goranci have a total population of roughly 50,000 people. They are primarily sheep and cattle herders, but also have a cartel network of dessert/sweet shops. They live in a very geographically small mountainous area of the most southern part of Kosovo, in and near the city of Dragash just south of Prizren.

The Goranci have their own language and are historically Muslim, their language, which is a Torlakian Slavic language, is related to Serbian and Macedonian, with Albanian and Turkish loanwords. http://mlicanin.weebly.com/goranski-recnik.html (This is a Dictionary that contains many words that are helpful.)

Note: Brod is Gorani/Serb village. Do not speak Albanian. English and french were not a languages we could communicate with. If you can speak Russian, then you can probably communicate with Serb-speakers.

The village of Brod has a population of perhaps 8,000 people. It lies in a high mountain valley/ravine. It has a rough elevation of 1,200 meters, but the mountains above it reach 2,200 meters. As the people have been living and herding cattle there for hundreds and hundreds of years, the surrounding mountains are completely over grazed and deforrested (in a beautiful way). Due to this, in order for the people to have some means of heating in the winter, they pack the manure from their cattle and goats on the sides of their houses so that it will dry. Fortunately, most of the manure is dry, so the village doesn't smell.

The building materials for the houses are all taken from the immediate area, so everything is made out of mountain rocks. Several mountain springs run throught the village on their way down to the flat plains of Kosovo. There is quite a lot of rubbish in the streams, as you'll see in much of kosovo.

Get in[edit]

From Prizren, take a combi to Dragaš. From Dragaš, you will either have to take a taxi (for probably a lot of money) or start walking. The hike to Brod is about 8 km up a small road. Ask a local which way to go. If you hitch hike, the first or second car will probably pick you up, although cars only pass once every 30 minutes.

Driving time approximately 1 hour from Prizren to Brod with a car. One can also hold at many wells to drink good water. If you have bottles, you can use it.

Get around[edit]

For some years now, the village has been plastered almost entirely with paving stones. Cars pass through the village unhindered. Meanwhile everyone has electricity and running water almost all day. Currently, few residents have fast internet Please beware on the road you not enter into horse droppings. A river flows through the village (Reka). Please do not throw any garbage.

Street-in-Brod (2017)
Street-in-Brod-to-Restaurant (2017)


Geography[edit]

The village consists of five quarters:

  • Gorno Maalo (upper Brod)
  • Douno Maalo (low Brod)
  • Ljokan Maalo (with Ljokan-Street)
  • Čučulj Maalo (with Čučulj-Street)
  • the field around Arxhena (with Arxhena-Street)


Religion[edit]

In the village there are two mosques. One in Douno Maalo and one in Gorno Maalo. 5 times a day you can hear the Ezan. Those who are religious can visit them.


See[edit][add listing]

It is worth your while to just walk around the town and see what it is like. It is completely unique. The graveyard on the small hill overlooking the village is worth a look.

Talk[edit]

Gorani is the Slavic language spoken in this region. Meanwhile, a little more people speak English. For the May Day national holiday many emigrants come back home from abroad to see their families, and you will have a better chance of finding English speakers. Speakers of a Slavic language should have no problem. That said, if you speak no Slavic language whatsoever, the locals will get a real kick if you make an attempt to speak a few phrases from your phrase book - which you should help expand with the assistance of locals.

Do[edit][add listing]

Riding on a mule up the canyon to the Gorani pasture. Brod lies down below at the mouth of this canyon
  • Take a horse ride up into the mountains

Ask the locals if they will take you for either a one day or overnight horse trip up to their pastures in the mountains. They should charge you only 10 EUR per person plus food for the adventure. You'll end up on a mule going through some of the most beautiful nature you'll ever have the opportunity to see in your life.

  • Hike to Shutman lakes

You can hike up during 3-4h (6h round trip from Brod) to reach the Shutman lakes (Sutmansko jezero). The hike passes by Arxhena Ski Resort hotel and then continues on the left. Follow the beautiful course of the river on the left and then cross it to the right until you get to the first lake. The 2nd lake is just a 10 min away higher up on the right hill from the path. The lakes are normally half dry in the summer, but are larger in other seasons. If you want to make your hike longer, you can continue towards the Macedonian border. Ask in Hotel Arxhena for a map.

Shopping and Fun[edit]

On the main street (Predljekuje Street) there are groceries where you can buy most of what you need. Who wants a (Samarče) can buy it . Either as a souvenir or as genuine. Let yourself be surprised. There used to be a shoemaker who made shoes to measure. For the guests, unfortunately, he died and nobody wanted to continue the tradition. If you have children, you can play in the arcade hall. A little small money is needed. There is also internet access, but it is slow.


Nature[edit]

Mountains near Brod


Eat[edit][add listing]

If you are in the hotel Arxhena and has a room, you can eat naturally in the garden or indoors. If you are not there, you can eat at Ramče. Many dwellers say he is the best in the village. Yes there is a large selection of food, however, for example, the plates are old and the glasses are not very clean. The cook is all right. If you do not want to eat there can also take it with you. There are many people there who want to eat, but there is not so much space. The food is good. Service ok.

In the Night[edit]

There are 6 caffee-shops. There are cafe and alcoholic drinks. Water from the springs. Operation is largely in order. From 11 o'clock in the evening starts the "Korzo". Then there are nightclubs and loud music. From 1 o'clock to about 4 o'clock it is the most obvious. Many celebrate at the time! Luckily there is then all day quiet in the village. Note that this is only in the summer, because in the winter there are only about 250 people in the village.

Sleep[edit][add listing]

Ask the locals for a place to stay. Somebody will put you up for the night (at a cost, probably 10 EUR). There is a man called Bilygaip (pronounced bill gip with the i as in eye) who has a 9-bed, self-catering guesthouse and charged me 10 EUR/night for a bed. It wasn't the best thing ever, but it worked and that was what mattered. Ask in one of the cafes, and they will dispatch a young lad to fetch him. There is wifi in his house; ask him for the password.

There is a hotel up the valley, 3km after Brod, called Hotel Arxhena.

Get out[edit]

Hitchhiking as far as Dragash works quite well, although sometimes the cars are completely full of people and so can't take you. From Dragash you can take a 1 euro bus to Prizren, or hitch there quite easily.

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