Baghdad (Arabic: بـغداد Baġdād) is the capital of Iraq and has about 6.000.000 inhabitants.
Baghdad has a long and illustrious history. Once it was a prestigious learning and cultural center. In the years following the coalition invasion in 2003, Baghdad became one of the most dangerous cities on Earth. However, the situation has improved remarkably and life goes on in Baghdad as normal. Tourists are still scarce, but those who do visit will find a welcoming city who are fascinated to interact with foreigners.
Baghdad is still facing some instabilities but the security circumstances are much better now. There are growing amounts of business attractions although touristic activities are still rather scarce. Perhaps the most intersting thing to go is to wander around the main thoroughfares around the city and observe the fast-paced hustle and bustle of Baghdad.
There are flights from Istanbul to Baghdad International Airport  every day at 03.15. From Munich there are four flights every week, you may also fly from Vienna. Cities in the Middle East such as Abu Dhabi, Amman, Beirut, Damascus, Dubai, Cairo, Manama and Tehran all have good flight connections with Baghdad. Gryphon Air has flights from Kuwait; however, there are strict regulations on who may use the service since they arrive and depart from the military sector of the airport. Of course, for military personnel and others traveling on official business sanctioned by the United States, the US Air Force offers flights from neighboring countries. All flights are subject to suspension for reasons ranging from insurgent attacks on the airport to sandstorms.
A nightly train service is available from Basra departing at 7PM, arrival time is 6:40AM the next morning. Delays are however very common. Prices range between 10,000 IQD for a couchette to 25,000 IQD for first class. There is also an irregular service from Fallujah.
Overland travel is possible from all neighboring countries but strongly discouraged due to violence.
Taxis and common, safe, and relatively cheap. English is not spoken amongst taxi drivers so you have to find ways to communicate, however the Careem taxi app works much like Uber and helps overcome the language barrier. Busses ply certain routes, including one between Jadriya and Tahrir Square through Inner Karrada, with fares fixed at IQD 500 (approx $.035). The city is safe to walk around, however, it might be difficult as the roads are not necessarily designed to accommodate pedestrians. Gaining entry to the International Zone (IZ, formerly the Green Zone) can be expensive unless you have an employer or friends with the relevant badges; private security firms and a network of off-duty drivers will charge around $150 for a return trip, even from neighbouring central Baghdad areas. Access to the IZ can be tightly restricted if mass protests or public unrest is anticipated. If you have the relevant permissions, you can also walk to many destinations in the International Zone or use a bicycle. A commuter service connects the city with the southern suburb of Doura.
There are several ways to work in Iraq as a foreigner. For U.S citizens the most obvious is the United States Military  which still maintains personnel here. Next are the government contractors, such as the construction company KBR . Many contractors hire personnel with prior military experience to return to Iraq, persons with military experience or fluent in Arabic are especially sought after. Lastly, there are civilian government agencies in Iraq. USAID  and the United States Department of State  send their own personnel as well as contractors to Iraq.
The agencies above are all relevant for U.S citizens; citizens of other countries with a presence in Iraq can apply for work through the respective agencies in their home country.
Souqs and Bazaars are mostly located downtown, off the iconic but now tired Rashid street between Martyrs (Shuhada) Bridge and Ahrar Bridge.
Rugs and DVDs are available to buy. Inspect the quality of rugs carefully: Some are cheap Chinese made rugs, and many are extremely overpriced. Also, many DVDs - especially from street vendors - are bootlegs of varying quality.
If street food is not for you, the best places to eat are in many of Baghdad’s malls.
Yes, there is drinking during down times. The International Zone is truly international. Many organizations have their own bars, some open to all.
Some international organizations arrange their own accommodation inside the Green Zone. There are a number of hotels in Inner Karrada, along the roads immediately south of Tahrir Square and one block inland from Abu Nuwas street, of varying quality and price.
See also War zone safety
Movement within Baghdad is difficult due to heavy traffic and entry into the International Zone, a.k.a. Green Zone, requires a pass or that you be accompanied by authorized officials. Most ex-pats and business travelers to Iraq hire a security detail which constantly monitors the security situation within Iraq and around Baghdad, though in truth, tourists do not need to worry about security issues.
As of November 2021, proof of full COVID-19 vaccination status, and a negative PCR test is required in order to board any international flight out of Baghdad International Airport. This policy is not mentioned in any official guidance, however it is very much enforced upon entry to BIAP.