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Travel Warning WARNING: Visiting Afghanistan is extremely dangerous, as the country has been overrun by the Taliban. In recent weeks the Western backed government has been toppled by the Taliban who have already begun implementing their interpretation of sharia law in the regions of Afghanistan they control. Services and amenities are extremely limited and the US and many other embassies have been closed. Independent travel to Afghanistan will most likely result in your death.

Armed conflict within the province of Panjshir has emerged between the Taliban and Panjshir Resistance group following the fall of the government. It has since spread into other provinces within North Eastern Afghanistan including Baghlan. The situation has continued to deteriorate. Any travel to that region of Afghanistan is especially inadvisable.

The situation in Afghanistan is extremely volatile. Do not travel to Afghanistan. If you do intend on visiting, please see War zone safety and the "Stay safe" section below.

Government travel advisories: AustraliaCanadaIrelandNew ZealandUnited KingdomUnited States
Afghanistan collage, from left to right: 1. Bamyan province, 2. The Salang Pass between Parwan and Baghlan provinces, 3. Band-e Amir National Park in Bamyan province, 4. River in Nuristan province.
Afghanistan in its region.svg
Flag of Afghanistan (2013–2021).svg
Quick Facts
Capital Kabul (moved from Kandahar in 1772)
Government Islamic totalitarian theocracy (officially named Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan) - although after the capitulation of Kabul and reestablishment of Taliban rule it’s seems to be of limited recognition
Currency afghani (AFN)
Area 647,500km²
Population 31,129,603 (November 2014 estimate)
Language Dari (Afghan Persian) 50%, Pashto 35%, Turkic languages (primarily Uzbek and Turkmen) 11%, 30 minor languages (primarily Balochi and Pashai) 4%, much bilingualism
Religion Sunni Muslim ca. 80%, Shi'a Muslim 19%, other 1%
Electricity 220V, 50Hz +/-50%
Country code +93
Internet TLD .af
Time Zone UTC+4.30

Afghanistan is a landlocked country at the crossroads of Western, Central, and Southern Asia and is at the heart of the continent. It is bordered by Pakistan to the south and east, Iran to the west, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan to the north. There is a short border with China to the far northeast via the Wakhan corridor, but in extremely inaccessible terrain.

Afghanistan has been the center of many powerful empires for the past 2,000 years. However, in the last 40 years the country has been in chaos due to major wars -- from the Soviet invasion of 1979 to their withdrawal in 1989 and from the rise of the Taliban in 1996 to the removal of the Taliban in power in 2001 and the ensuing American and NATO invasion. In August 2021, the Taliban has retaken power, toppling the NATO-backed government in place. Economically, Afghanistan is considered poor compared to many other nations of the world. However, the country is currently going through a nation-wide rebuilding process.


2011 Afghan Youth Voices Festival at Babur Gardens in Kabul, Afghanistan.

Afghanistan has spent the last 4 decades in the news for all the wrong reasons. While it has much to offer to the intrepid traveller, caution is advised and travel to Kabul is strongly advised against under any circumstances, due to the recent events in the city i.e. the takeover of Kabul by the Taliban.


Temperatures in the central highlands are below freezing for most of the winter, and snow is common at higher elevations. Summertime highs in lower elevations (such as Jalalabad or Mazar-e Sharif) can exceed 40°C/100°F. In higher areas such as Kabul, summer temperatures can be 30°C/90°F and winter around 0°C/30°F. The most pleasant weather in Kabul is during April, May and September. The most rugged north-eastern leg (the Wakhan Corridor) remains below freezing for most of the year.


Mostly rugged mountains; plains in north and southwest. The Hindu Kush mountains run northeast to southwest, dividing the northern provinces from the rest of the country, with the highest peaks found in the northern Wakhan Corridor. South of Kandahar and neighboring Helmand is desert, with Nimroz and parts of Farah also desert. Nuristan, Kunar and Paktia contain significant mountainous forests.

The lowest point is Amu Darya in the north at 242m, and the highest is Nowshak in the east at 7,489m.


Afghanistan is an ethnically diverse country. Tribal and local allegiances are strong, which complicates national politics immensely.

The largest ethnic group is the Pashtun followed by the Tajik, Hazara, Uzbek and others.

Baloch tribesmen, while still largely nomadic, can be found anywhere between Quetta in Pakistan and Mashad in Iran, including much of Western Afghanistan. They make marvellous rugs, if somewhat simple.

There are about three thousand Hindus and Sikhs living in different cities of the country but mostly in Kabul, Jalalabad, and Kandahar who belong to the Punjabi, Sindhi, Kabuli, and Kandhari ethnic groups.

Hazaras in the Central mountains look much more Asiatic than other Afghans. According to some theories, many of them are descended from Ghengis Khan's soldiers.

Afghanistan is a multilingual country in which two languages - Persian (Dari) and Pashto are both official with Persian being most widely spoken in the country. Pashto speakers predominate in the South and East, Persian in North, West and central Afghanistan. About 11% of the population have Turkic languages, Uzbek or Turkmen, as their first language. Many of them are in the North, near Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Minor native language groups include Nuristani, Dardic and Pamiri, found in small pockets in the east and northeast.Most ethnicities speak and understand Persian.


The main mosque in Kandahar, adjacent to it is the mausoleum of Ahmad Shah Durrani and the site of the Prophet's Cloak.

Afghanistan has been settled for thousands of years. Modern-day Afghanistan was founded when Mir Wais Hotak, an Afghan tribal leader, rose up against the oppressing Shi'a Safavids in 1709 and made Afghanistan an independent state by establishing the Hotaki dynasty, with its capital at Kandahar. His son Mahmud later conquered what is now Iran and Iraq but the Hotaki dynasty collapsed in 1738. In 1747, Ahmad Shah Durrani re-established an independent Afghanistan and expanded it to include what is now Pakistan as well as northeastern Iran and the Western parts of India. The country has a long history of warfare, mostly against invaders such as Alexander of Macedon, Persians, Arabs, Turks, Mongols, and the British. On the contrary, it was once the second major Islamic learning center after Baghdad. Many world-renowned scholars, scientists, mathematicians, and poets hail from what is now Afghanistan. This includes Avicenna, Al-Biruni, Rumi, and others.

The Afghan Girl
The June 1985 cover of National Geographic [1] showed the most haunting image of the Afghan War: a young Afghan girl, with piercing sea-green eyes and a dilapidated hijab. The photo, taken by Steve McCurry in Pakistan in 1984, became the icon of the troubles in Afghanistan. But, for 16 years, no one knew the girl's name. Then in 2001, following the defeat of the Taliban, National Geographic finally located the girl and her identity: Sharbat Gula. She vividly recalled being photographed and recognized her face as the one in the photo. Today, in her honor, NG now runs a fund to educate young Afghan girls, who were denied education under the Taliban.

Afghanistan remained peaceful between 1933 and the late 1970s, focusing on developing itself. After the April 1978 bloody coup by pro-Soviet Union members, the Soviet Union invaded in December 1979 to support the new socialist government. By February 1989 all Soviet forces withdrew from the country but fighting continued between Soviet-backed Afghan government forces and mujahideen rebels, who were funded by the United States, Saudi Arabia, and others while trained by Pakistan and Iran.

The Taliban grew out of this chaos in late 1994, providing a solution to what was by this time a civil war. Backed by foreign sponsors, and inspired by a conservative sect of Islam, the Taliban developed as a political force to end the civil war and bring order to the country. They seized the capital of Kabul in September 1996 and controlled most of the country by 2000, aside from some areas in the northeast.

After the September 2001 terrorist attacks in the United States, the world focused on the situation in Afghanistan. Washington accused Osama bin Laden and al Qaida of attacking the US, and requested that the Taliban hand these people over to US authorities and destroy all al Qaida training camps inside Afghanistan. The Taliban refused this on principle setting the stage for US and NATO-led invasion of Afghanistan that toppled the Taliban regime.

That same month, representatives from all ethnic groups of Afghanistan met in Germany and agreed to form a new democratic government with Hamid Karzai as Chairman of the Afghan Interim Authority. Following a nationwide election in 2004, Hamid Karzai was elected as President of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A year later, in 2005, legislative elections were held and the country's parliament began functioning again. In addition to occasionally violent political jockeying and ongoing military action to root out anti-government elements, the country suffers from poverty, opium cultivation, and widespread corruption.

In 2005, Afghanistan and the US signed a strategic partnership agreement committing both nations to a long-term relationship. In 2012, the two countries signed another more important strategic partnership agreement in which Afghanistan was designated a major non-NATO ally (MNNA). Afghanistan also signed a strategic partnership agreement with India, the United Kingdom, Germany, Australia, and many other nations. In the meantime, around 50 billion US dollars is being spent on the reconstruction of the country.


Officially 220V at 50Hz. Electricity supplies are erratic but slowly improving in major cities. Voltage can drop to below 150V in some places. The Afghans' enthusiasm for home-made generators or modifying low quality ones means that the frequency and voltage can also vary wildly.

There are three types of electrical outlets likely to be found in Afghanistan. They are the old British standard BS-546, the newer British standard BS-1363 and the European standard CEE-7/7 "Schukostecker" or "Schuko". The latter is the standard and obviously most common. Generally speaking, US and Canadian travellers should pack adapters for these outlets if they plan to use North American electrical equipment in Afghanistan. You may also find cheap universal adapters in the local markets.


  • Afghan Scene magazine [2]
  • The Places Inbetween by Rory Stewart – a fascinating post 9/11 travelogue of Stewart's walk from Herat to Kabul just after the fall of the Taliban.
  • The Kite Runner by Khalid Hosseini – a beautiful and heartbreaking tale of childhood in Afghanistan
  • Good Morning Afghanistan by Waseem Mahmood - a true account of the setting up of the first public radio station in Kabul after the Taliban fell.
  • An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan by Jason Elliot -- a true travelogue from the period between the expulsion of the Soviets and the ascension of the Taliban. He went everywhere.
  • Hitch-hiking in the Axis of Evil by Juan Pablo Villarino -- a first hand account of a recent trip by thumb in Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan highlighting local hospitality and questioning stereotypes.



English spellings of Afghan place names vary. For example, Q may replace K as in Qandahar or Qunduz. Kunduz will be seen spelled as Konduz, Qunduz, Qundoz, Qundoze and variations on these. Bamiyan is often spelled as Bamian or Bamyan. Khowst may be spelt as Khost.


The city of Herat in western Afghanistan. The closest building serves as the US Consulate.
  • Kabul - in the east, the capital city
  • Balkh - an ancient city in the north, its history still palpable
  • Bamiyan - The remains of the Buddhas. Once considered one of the wonders of the world, these tall stone carvings were destroyed by the Taliban in a notorious act of cultural vandalism...
  • Ghazni - in the south-east, between Kabul and Kandahar
  • Herat - in the west, gateway to Iran, has a strong Persian influence and several interesting historical sites
  • Jalalabad - in the east, between Kabul and the Khyber Pass
  • Kandahar - a Taliban-influenced southern city, not safe for travel at this time , Claim as oldest continuously inhabited city in the world , ancient name is mundigak (3000 B.C)
  • Kunduz - A major city in the northeast, and crossing point to Tajikistan
  • Mazar-e Sharif - home to the impressively tiled Blue Mosque, and the staging point for trips into Uzbekistan
  • Puli Khumri - an ancient city in the heart of Afghanistan

Other destinations[edit]

  • Band-e Amir National Park - 5 stunningly turquoise lakes in a remote and beautiful setting, not far from Bamiyan.
  • The Khyber Pass is the Gateway to Pakistan, an historic route of invasion and trade.
  • The Minaret of Jam is well off the beaten path but some say worth the journey - possible as a roundtrip from Herat or when traversing the Central Route from Herat to Kabul.
  • Panjshir Valley - a beautiful trekking area, leading to the famous Anjuman Pass.
  • Shamali Plain north of Kabul. Shamali, meaning 'windy' or 'northern,' is a green plain which produced a lot of the food for central Afghanistan. From Kabul it extends north through Charikar, Parwan province to Jabal os Saraj. The Taliban destroyed the irrigation systems and it is only just beginning to recover.
  • Gardez - a beautiful major town in a mountain valley southeast of Kabul.

Get in[edit]

Karl Eikenberry, then US Ambassador to Afghanistan, visiting Kabul International Airport.


In accordance with the law, citizens of all countries require a visa to visit Afghanistan. The only exemptions are travellers born in Afghanistan or born to Afghani parents or parents born in Afghanistan.

A visa on arrival facility is available at Hamid Karzai International Airport for business visitors, journalists, athletes, airline staff and passengers in transit from countries that do not have a diplomatic mission of Afghanistan.

Visas are often easier to obtain than you might expect. See the Afghanistan Foreign Ministry's visa webpage [3].

By plane[edit]

Hamid Karzai International Airport (IATA: KBL) in Kabul is the main entry point to the country. In late 2008, the barely functioning old terminal was refurbished and is now being used for domestic flights, while the brand new Japanese-constructed terminal is up and running and fielding international flights.

  • Ariana Afghan Airlines [4], Afghanistan’s national carrier, is flying with a small fleet of about 14 Airbuses and Boeings (plus Antonovs). They have daily flights from Dubai, and periodic flights from Delhi, Istanbul, Ankara, Kuwait and Jeddah. Ariana is particularly bad at keeping to schedules, flights can be cancelled or delayed without notice.
  • Safi Airways [5], the first fully internationally safety certified airline in Afghanistan. It offers two daily flights to Dubai and four weekly connections to Delhi. Safi offers some of the most reliable flights and even when the schedule changes, a phone call is enough to change your ticket.
  • Kam Air [6] operates daily flights to Dubai, and less frequent connections to Delhi, Tehran and Mashad.
  • Air Arabia [7] flies 5 times per week from Sharjah.
  • Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) [8] flies 5 times per week from Islamabad and 1 time per week from Peshawar to Kabul.
  • Air India [9] operates 4 flights a week from Delhi to Kabul.
  • Spicejet, an Indian low-cost carrier flies three times to Kabul directly from Delhi (Tue, Thu, Sat).
  • Turkish Airlines offers daily flights to Istanbul.
  • Emirates [10] flies daily from their hub in in Dubai to Kabul (from December 2013).
  • Fly Dubai[11] flies daily from their hub in Dubai. A cheaper option than Emirates.

Maulana Jalaluddin Balkhi International Airport (IATA: MZR) in Mazar-e-Sharif is north Afghanistan’s main airport.

  • Ariana Afghan Airlines [12] flies from Mazar-e-Sharif to Moscow.
  • Turkish Airlines [13] offers flights from Istanbul Atatürk Airport (from November 2013)

Kandahar International Airport (IATA: KDH) in Kandahar

  • Ariana Afghan Airlines [14] flies to Dubai, Dehli and Jeddah.
  • Gryphon Airlines [15] offers flights to Kuwait and Dubai.

Bagram Airfield (IATA: OAI) in Bagram

  • Gryphon Airlines [16] offers flights to Dubai and Kuwait.

By car[edit]

Torkham Gate in 2012, the busiest border crossing between Afghanistan and neighboring Khyber Pakhtunkhwa in Pakistan.

There are a number of roads into Afghanistan:

By bus[edit]

Buses run regularly between Jalalabad and Peshawar, Pakistan. Also, between Herat and Mashad, Iran. Buses of both countries are thoroughly checked by border police for possible drugs or weapons, so expect delays.

Get around[edit]

By plane[edit]

Planes fly between Kabul and the major cities (Kandahar, Herat and Mazar-e Sharif) at varying frequency. If weather is suitable, flights are operated daily. Most flights depart cities in the mornings before 11:00 only. Civilian aircraft are not operated after sun-down.

As of the 15th of August 2021, Kabul Airport is closed to commercial airlines and is only supporting evacuation flights out of Afghanistan.

By car[edit]

The highway between Kabul and northern Afghanistan, runs through the Salang Tunnel which is located in the Parwan Province.

There is a growing network of public transportation between the country's cities. Buses ply some routes and Toyota vehicles have a near monopoly on minivan (HiAce) and taxi (Corolla) transportation.

A new highway connects Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif. The highway is in good condition and is considered "relatively" safe. The trip takes a minimum of 5h. The highway goes through the famous Salang Mountains and cross the Hindu Kush mountain ranges. If you hire a relatively new Toyota Corolla, this would cost you about US$100 (if bargained by a local) for one direction from the Mazar Station in Kabul to anywhere in Mazar-i-Sharif.

There is no metered taxi in large parts of Afghanistan. Taxis are yellow and clearly identifiable. You should normally strike a deal with the driver before you take a seat. You can consider 2-3km of road in ideal conditions to be around USD1 worth (AFN50).

Jeeps and Land Cruisers are available for hire along with drivers who speak some English (do not keep your hopes high that you might bump into one of them). There are tour operators in Kabul that can provide a car and guide; these people are available for hire at the Kabul International Airport itself. Petrol stations are scarce in the countryside, and fuel is expensive.

Paved roads are the exception, not the rule, and even those roads can be in poor repair. Once outside the major cities expect dirt roads (which turn to mud during rain or snow melt). The highway between Kabul and Bagram is dominated by military convoys and "jingle trucks".

A new highway links Kabul to Kandahar. The highway is in good condition but should not be considered safe due to frequent attacks by anti-government forces such as the Taliban who often plant powerful mines (bombs) next to highways in which civilians are killed [17], and the poor standard of driving. The trip takes a minimum of 5 hours.


Pashto and Dari, an Afghan dialect of Persian, are both the official languages of Afghanistan. Most Afghans are able to speak in Dari and Pashto. The latest CIA country profile mentions that Dari is spoken by about 50%, mainly in the Kabul, Herat, Mazar-e Sharif and Central Afghanistan regions. Pashto is spoken mainly in the South and East; it is also spoken in neighbouring Pakistan. The remaining are Turkic native language, primarily Uzbek and Turkmen, and there are also 30 minor languages such as Balochi. English is now at the climax of its flourishing in Afghanistan and the percentage of those who speak English now has reached unprecedented rates. President Karzai, his cabinet and many others are fluent in English. The English language was taught in the past from the 7th grade, but now is taught from the fourth grade and signs in English in the streets are becoming common now all over the country. English is the second foreign language in Afghanistan. Quite a lot of people also speak basic Urdu/Hindi due to the fact that millions of Afghans lived in refugee camps in Pakistan and the popularity of Bollywood in this country.

Buy[edit][add listing]

The Afghani (AFN) is, perhaps non-surprisingly, the currency of Afghanistan. 1USD equals about AFN64, while €1 trades at about AFN 70. Exchange rates are available via The Central Bank website.

Carpets sold in Kabul. 1m² costs USD300

Haggling is very much part of the tradition.

Afghanistan's most famous products are carpets. There are carpets described as "Afghan", but also at least two other carpet-weaving traditions. The Baluchi tribes in the South and West weave fine rugs, and the Turkoman tribes in the North do as well; both groups are also found in neighbouring countries. All three types tend to use geometric patterns in the design, usually with red as the background colour and with repeated elements called "guls" to make the pattern. Generally, these are not as finely woven as carpets from the cities of neighboring Iran. However, many of them are quite beautiful and their prices are (assuming good haggling) well below those of the top Iranian carpets.

  • Baluchi rugs are usually small since nomadic people cannot use large looms; sizes up to 1.5 x 2m (4x7 ft) are common, but not many beyond that. They are popular with travellers because they are fairly portable. One very common type is a prayer rug, just large enough for one person to kneel facing Mecca. Another is the "nomad's chest of drawers" — a bag, often beautifully decorated, that is a saddlebag when travelling and hangs on the wall of the tent when camped.
  • Turkoman rugs, often labelled "Bokhara" in the Western rug trade, come in all sizes and a very broad range of quality. Some are woven by nomads, with the same range of sizes and types as Baluchi rugs. Others are made in city workshops; the best of these are almost as finely woven and almost as expensive as top-grade Persian carpets. One fairly common design is the Hatchli, a cross shape on a large rug.
  • Afghan rugs are generally made in city workshops, mainly for the export trade. They are often large; 3 x 4m (10x12 feet) is common. Most are quite coarsely woven to keep costs down, but others have a fairly fine weave. If you need a big rug for the living room at a moderate price, these are likely to be your best choice.
"Golden Afghan" rugs were fairly common in Western countries a few decades back; they were invented by Western dealers who bleached Afghan carpets to eliminate the red colour, leaving a blue or black on orange or gold design. They are rare in Afghanistan, where the traditional colours are preferred. In the West, collectors also prefer the traditional colours and bleached rugs generally bring a lower price. Also, the "golden" rugs may not wear as well as unbleached rugs since bleaching can damage the fibres. In most cases, they should be avoided.

It is fairly common for rugs woven by nomads — such as many Baluchi rugs and some Turkoman — to show minor irregularities. The loom is dismantled for transport and re-assembled at the new camp, so the rug may not turn out perfectly rectangular. Vegetable dyes are often used, and these may vary from batch to batch, so some colour variation (arbrash) occurs and this may be accentuated as the rug fades. To collectors, most such irregularities come in the "that's not a bug; it's a feature" category; they are expected and accepted. In fact, a nice arbrash can considerably increase the value of a rug.

Turkoman designs are widely copied; it is common to see "Bokhara" carpets from India or Pakistan, China produces some, and the Afghan carpet designs show heavy Turkoman influence. To collectors, though, the original Turkoman rugs are worth a good deal more. Good Baluchi rugs are also quite valuable in Western countries. Afghan rugs, or lower grade Baluchi and Turkoman rugs, generally are not collectors' items; most travellers will find the best buys among these. Experts might pay premium prices for the top-grade rugs, but amateurs trying that are very likely to get severely overcharged.

Kelims are flat-woven fabric with no pile. These are nowhere near as tough as carpets and will not survive decades on the floor as a good carpet will. However, some are lovely, and they are generally cheaper than carpets. Things like purses made of carpet or decorated with kelim weave are also common.

Another common product and popular souvenir is the Afghan sheepskin coat. These have the wool on the inside for warmth and the leather on the outside to block wind, rain and snow. They often have lovely embroidery. Two cautions, though. One is that the makers use the embroidery to hide flaws in the leather; top-quality coats will have little or no embroidery. The other is that Australian customs have been known to incinerate these coats on arrival, to protect their large sheep population from diseases (notably anthrax) that poorly tanned Afghan products might carry.

There are also various bits of metalwork — heavily decorated pots, vases and platters, and some quite nice knives.

Guns are very common in Afghanistan and some are of considerable interest to historians and collectors.

  • The traditional Afghan jezail is a long muzzle-loading rifle often elaborately inlaid with brass or mother-of-pearl. Be extremely cautious about actually firing one of these. The genuine ones are quite old, perhaps with metal fatigue or other problems. Many of the jezails available are not genuine, just copies made recently for the tourist trade; these were never designed to be fired and are more likely to kill the shooter than to hit a target.
  • There are also pass-made rifles, from the Khyber Pass area. The most common are copies of the 19th century British army Martini-Henry rifle, a single-shot lever action weapon. Some are .451 calibre like the original Martini-Henry, but some take a more modern round; .303 is common. Until the Russian invasion in the late 70s — when anyone who could kill a Russian, rob an armoury, or pay the price (i.e. almost any Afghan) got an AK-47 — these were the most common rifle in Afghanistan. There are also pass-made copies of various other guns, anything from Webley revolvers to AK-47s. Quality is often dodgy, in particular the steel is often of low quality, and firing any of these guns is risky. Ammunition made in the pass often contained less powder or lower-grade powder than the standard ammo; some pass-made guns blow up if subjected to the higher stress of standard ammo.

These make a rather problematic souvenir. Importing a firearm anywhere can be difficult and it may be impossible in some places. If you are travelling overland and passing through several countries before you reach home, it is almost certainly not worth the trouble. Also, if you actually fire any Afghan gun, there is a risk that it will blow up in the face of the shooter.

See[edit][add listing]

Afghanistan has several sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List, including:

Almost every Afghan town has a fine mosque. Those of Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif are particularly remarkable.

Do[edit][add listing]

Afghanistan has many exciting places to visit.

  • One of the many famous ones is the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul. Afghan culture is very elaborate, and this is one of the best places to experience their culture.

The mountains of Afghanistan are stunning. The Hindu Kush mountains form the geographical backbone of Afghanistan. Apart from the Bamian region, Panjshir Valley and the Wakhan Corridor hiking and trekking is not safe. The Wakhan Corridor, in the far northeastern corner of Afghanistan, is the best place for long distance trekking. The only way to enter the region is at the border with Tajikistan near Ishkishim. The road from Kabul to Ishkishim is unsafe. The Wakhan is wedged between the Hindu Kush and the Pamirs and is a paradise for trekkers and climbers.

  • Tours Amazingly, there are several companies that offer tours of Afghanistan. Tours can offer a way for travellers to see Afghanistan without having to organise every aspect of their trip themselves (e.g. itinerary, logistics, security). This can be very useful as local knowledge is particularly important when planning travel to Afghanistan.
    One of these tour companies is Untamed Borders and, according to their website, offers 'bespoke trips and small group tours'. One of their most popular tours is the Afghan Ski Challenge held in March every year. Alternatively individual and small group tours covering specific sights can be arranged.
  • Tours There are also local travel agencies developing their activity in the country. For example Afghan Logistics & Tours Afghan Logistics & Tours Pvt Ltd is a one stop shop in Afghanistan for all Logistics, mini cab service, transportation, armored and soft skin Toyota Vehicle rental, Purchase, maintenance and parts enquiries, as well as provider of tour packages to the unique and historical places in Afghanistan, ALT provides quality services around the country for NGOs, Private companies, Journalists travelers and professional entities.
  • Sport Events In October 2015 the first international marathon was held in the northern province of Bamyan. Around 120 Afghans and international runners participated in this event.

Eat[edit][add listing]

There are mainly three types of Afghan bread:

  • Naan - Literally "bread". Thin, long and oval shaped, its mainly a white/whole wheat blend. Topped with poppy seeds, sesame seeds, nigella seeds, or some combination of these. Upon request, customers may be able to get all white flour and a helping of oil, which makes it rich and delicious.
  • Obi Non - Uzbek-style bread. Shaped like a disc and thicker than naan. Usually made with white flour.
  • Lavash - Very thin bread. Similar to the Lavash elsewhere. Usually used as plating for meats and stews.

Rice dishes are the "king" of all foods in Afghanistan. The Afghans have certainly taken much time and effort in creating their rice dishes, as they are considered the best part of any meal. Wealthier families will eat one rice dish per day. The Afghan royalty spent much time on rice preparation and invention as evidenced in the sheer number of rice dishes in their cookbooks. Weddings and family gatherings must feature several rice dishes and certainly reputations can be made in the realm of rice preparation.

  • Chalao-White rice. Extra long grains such as Basmati is required. First parboiled, then drained, and finally baked in an oven with some oil, butter, and salt. This method creates a fluffy rice with each grain separated, unlike Chinese or Japanese rice. Chalao is served mainly with qormas (korma; stews or casseroles)
  • Palao- Cooked the same as chalao, but either meat & stock, qorma, herbs, or a combination are blended in before the baking process. This creates elaborate colors, flavors, and aromas for which some rices are named after. Caramelized sugar is also sometimes used to give the rice a rich brown color.
  • Yakhni Palao - meat & stock added. Creates a brown rice
  • Zamarod Palao - Spinach qorma mixed in before the baking process, hence 'zamarod' or emerald.
  • Qorma Palao - Qorm'eh Albokhara wa Dalnakhod mixed in before the baking process
  • Bore Palao - Qorm'eh Lawand added. Creates a yellow rice.
  • Bonjan-e-Roomi Palao - Qorm'eh Bonjan-e-Roomi (tomato qorma) added at baking process. Creates a red rice.
  • Serkah Palao - Similar to yakhni palao, but with vinegar and other spices.
  • Shebet Palao - Fresh dill, raisins added at baking process.
  • Narenj Palao - A sweet and elaborate rice dish made with saffron, orange peel, pistachios, almonds and chicken.
  • Maash Palao - A sweet and sour palao baked with mung beans, apricots, and Bulgur (a kind of wheat). Exclusively vegetarian.
  • Alou Balou Palao - Sweet rice dish with cherries and chicken.
  • Sticky Rices -Boiled medium grain rice cooked with its meat, herbs, and grains. Because the water is not drained, it forms a sticky rice texture. Notable dishes include Mastawa, Kecheri Qoroot, and Shola. When white rice is cooked to a sticky consistency it is called bata, and is usually eaten with a qorma, such as Sabzi (spinach) or Shalgham (turnips). A sweet rice dish called Shir Birenj (literally milk rice) is often served as dessert.

Qorma is a stew or casserole, usually served with chawol. Most qormas are onion-based. Onions are fried, then meat is added, as are a variety of fruits, spices, and vegetables depending on the recipe. Finally water is added and left to simmer. The onion caramelizes and creates a richly colored stew. There exist over 100 qormas.

  • Qorma Alou-Bokhara wa Dalnakhod - onion based, with sour plums, lentils, and cardamom. Veal or chicken.
  • Qorma Nadroo - onion based, with yogurt, lotus roots, cilantro, and coriander. Lamb or veal.
  • Qorma Lawand - onion based, with yogurt, turmeric, and cilantro. Chicken, lamb, or beef.
  • Qorma Sabzi - sauteed spinach and other greens. Lamb
  • Qorma Shalgham - onion based, with turnips, sugar; sweet and sour taste. Lamb.

Pasta is called "khameerbob" in Afghanistan and is often in the shape of dumplings. These native dishes are wildly popular. Due to the time-consuming process of creating the dough for the dumplings, it is rarely served at large gatherings such as weddings, but for more special occasions at home:

  • Mantu - A dish of Uzbek origin. Dumplings filled with onion & ground beef. Mantu is steamed and usually topped with a tomato-based sauce and a yogurt or qoroot-based sauce. The yogurt-based topping is usually a mixture of yogurt, sour cream, and garlic. The qoroot based sauce is made of goat cheese and is also mixed with garlic. Sometimes a qoroot and yogurt mixture will be used. The dish is then topped with dried mint.
  • Ashak - Kabul dish. Dumplings filled with leeks. Boiled and then drained. Ashak is topped with garlic-mint qoroot or a garlic yogurt sauce and a well seasoned ground meat mixture.
  • Afghan kebab is most often found in restaurants and outdoor vendor stalls. Sometimes they are put into shishas. Families rarely serve homemade kebab in their home due to the need of inaccessible equipment. The most widely used meat is lamb. Recipes differ with every restaurant, but Afghan kebab is usually marinated with a blend of spices, and served with naan, rarely rice. Customers have the option to sprinkle sumac, locally known as ghora, on their kebab. The quality of kebab is solely dependent on the quality of the meat. Pieces of fat from the sheep's tail (jijeq) are usually added with the lamb skewers to add extra flavor.Other popular kebabs include lamb chops, ribs, kofta (ground beef) and chicken; all of which are found in better restaurants.
  • Chapli kebab, a speciality of eastern Afghanistan, is a fried hamburger. The original recipe of chapli kebab dictates a half meat (or less), half flour mixture, which renders it lighter in taste, and less expensive.

Desserts and Snacks

  • Baklava
  • Afghan Cake (similar to pound cake sometimes with real fruit or jelly inside)
  • Gosh Feel (thin, fried pastry covered in powdered sugar and ground pistachios)
  • Fernea (Milk and cornstarch very sweet, similar to rice pudding without the rice)
  • Mou-rubba (fruit sauce, sugar syrup and fruits, apple, sour cherry, various berries or made with dried fruits "Afghan favorite is the Alu-Bakhara")
  • Kulcha (Variety of cookies, baked in clay ovens with char-wood)
  • Narenge Palau (dried sweet orange peel and green raisins with a variety of nuts mixed with yellow rice glazed with light sugar syrup)

Drink[edit][add listing]

Since Afghanistan is an Islamic country, alcohol consumption is illegal. However, it is tolerated in western restaurants in Kabul and as always it is available in the black market. However buying items from the black market is illegal and if you are caught you could be sentenced with up to death. Also, alcohol is often favored with "flavor boosting" chemicals that are dangerous and the brew could be filtered incorrectly, making it deadly and poisonous. Avoiding alcohol is recommended.

Sleep[edit][add listing]

Hotels and guesthouses are available in all major cities, and while some may not meet international standards they are usually friendly and reliable. Hotels and guesthouses prices can range from 10$ to several hundreds dollars.



Many foreigners are finding well paid work in Afghanistan as part of the reconstruction efforts. Often with the UN or other non-governmental organisations. Most of these jobs are within Kabul. Local wages are very low, especially outside of Kabul. However, everyone should read and understand the travel advice published by their respective governments or in the Stay safe section below.

Stay safe[edit]

Travel Warning WARNING: No part of Afghanistan should be considered safe. Since the withdrawal of NATO forces in 2021 the Taliban quickly retook the country. If you visit, you will most likely be killed. The situation in Afghanistan is extremely volatile. Do not travel to Afghanistan. If you do wish to enter, see War zone safety.
Mine found by road crew

Landmines and other UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) remain a problem across the country, so plan to stick to well-worn paths, avoid red and white painted rocks, and do not touch or move any suspicious-looking item. According to the Afghan Red Crescent Society, approximately 600-700 people are injured or killed every year in accidents due to landmines and UXO. This is greatly reduced from over 1,600 in 2002. While travelling in Afghanistan you are likely to see mine clearance organisations at work. Conflict Zone photographer Matt West includes a section on his website about staying safe in Afghanistan. Afghanistan Travel Advice Since the NATO troops departure, terrorist attacks, along with a large variety of crimes (which include bribery, murder, corruption, kidnapping, etc.), are considered extremely lethal if you are a visitor and there is NO GUARANTEE that you will be able to make a safe trip. Do NOT expect help from police or their local military; they will either join in or completely ignore crime altogether, making yourself, and other visitors (which includes relatives) a massive liability!

Insects, Arachnids and Snakes are also something to be careful of, as the mountainous country has many vicious tiny creatures such as scorpions, spiders, snakes, etc.

In some areas, altitude sickness is a significant risk.

Travel Warning WARNING: LGBT activities are illegal in Aghanistan. Punishments include death, floggings, vigilante execution, chemical castrations, beatings, torture, fines and deportation. Anti-gay attacks and vigilante executions happen all the time and police will turn a blind eye, join in on the violence, or be complicit. No businesses are LGBT friendly and police will not hesitate to arrest, torture, and kill anyone acting out LGBT behavior. If you are LGBT, stay out of Afghanistan

Stay healthy[edit]

Afghanistan has its fair share of health issues, and it would be wise to consult a travel doctor ahead of your trip about vaccinations and health risks. Respiratory diseases such as tuberculosis and food-related illness are common, and malaria is a risk in many parts of the country.

Afghanistan is one of the dustiest countries in the world, and you should be prepared to be covered in it and breathing it for most of your stay, even in the major cities. Pollution from diesel engines can also make life unpleasant.

Flies are notoriously heinous here, likely due to poor sanitation. Winter brings some relief, but they come back full-strength when spring arrives.

Food should be approached with a discerning eye, as hygiene standards can often be lacking. Hot, freshly cooked food is generally safer. Bottled water is also advised, unless you have your own purification system.

Bring any prescription medicine you may need from your home country, and don't count on being able to find it locally. You may also consider carrying pain relievers and anti-diarrheals, as they'll be hard to find outside of major cities.

As in most parts of Asia, squat toilets are the norm, with toilet paper optional and sometimes scarce. Western-style toilets are seen occasionally in newer buildings and some private homes.


Inside the Maulana Jalaludin Cultural Park in the northern city of Mazar-e-Sharif.
  • Women in all parts of Afghanistan wear the burqa or chadori. On the other hand, many urbanized women in Kabul, Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif don't wear the burqa but rather put on the middle eastern style hijab, which is similar to Iranian fashion. Burqa or chadori are also rather uncommon in the Wakhan valley, which borders with Tajikistan. Western women are highly encouraged to wear a head scarf (especially outside Kabul).
  • Showing the bottom of the foot is considered rude.
  • The farther south you go the more conservative the people are.



Fixed line telephone service is available in major cities (digital in Kabul) and mobile phones in most cities. SIM cards are available and international calls to Europe/US typically cost less than USD0.50/minute. Outside of major cities your options are limited to a satellite phone.


  • Roshan ☎ +93 79 997 1333. The most reliable service with the widest coverage. SMS is possible to most countries. SIM cards cost USD5, local calls are AFN5/min (10 US cents/min).
  • Afghan Wireless Privately owned with 20% ownership by the government, AWCC has the only communications ring around the country offering high speed mobile and data services throughout all provinces. AWCC also offers the highest speed fibre based connections to the outside world, with roaming to over 300 other operators in 120 countries. Services include voice, FAX, GPRS and EDGE data services along with WiMAX and dedicated high speed internet service with 45MB links to NYC and 45MB links to Paris. SIM cards cost USD1, local calls are AFN4.99/min with billing in seconds.
  • Areeba/MTN ☎ +93 77 222 2777. The cheapest cell service, offers the least coverage. SIM cards cost USD3, local calls are AFN5.5/min.
  • Etisalat ☎ +93 78 688 8888. A large network provider from the UAE, is the latest GSM network in Afghanistan. It became the first company to begin 3G services in early 2012.

Satellite phones[edit]

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