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Wild Coast

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The Wild Coast, [1] is part of the Eastern Cape province in South Africa, encompassing the coastal region from north of East London to the southern border with KwaZulu-Natal at Port Edward.


Towns and Cities

  • Mthatha - Formerly called Umtata, Mthatha is the bustling main town of the Transkei and gateway to the Wild Coast (Mpande, Port St Johns, Coffee Bay, etc). It offers some African spirit and the Nelson Mandela museum. Transportation hub with bus services to Durban, East London and points south (the bus stop is at the petrol station on the N2). Cheap safe sleep at the Grosvenor hotel downtown, near the mall and taxi rank. Take a taxi into town from the petrol station.
  • Coffee Bay - At the heart of the Wild Coast, with its idyllic cliffs & beaches. Grocery store and post office. There are two backpackers here, Coffee Shack and Bomvu, who between them are surf specialists, drum makers and firedancers under moon and stars.
  • Mpande - Spaza shops, wild unspoiled beaches, amazing surf, canoeing, horse riding and of course The Kraal Backpackers where you can drum with the stars!
  • Port St Johns - Capital of the Wild Coast and home of the wise, the wild, the wacky and the weird. Backpackers in and near town include Amapondo, Ikaya and Jungle Monkey.
  • Kei mouth - Kei mouth is about 90km from East London and is situated on the south bank of the Kei River, beyond which, lies the rural former homeland of the Transkei. The subtropical climate, unpolluted beaches and warm waters of the Indian Ocean make Kei mouth ideal for bathers, surfers and sunbathers throughout the year.

Other destinations

  • Cintsa - On the southern gateway to the Wild Coast this small town has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. It is also home to Buccaneers Backpackers considered by many travelers to be one of the best backpackers in SA. Volunteering through Volunteer Africa 32 degrees south has made significant inroads to assisting with rural schools development in Cintsa and along the Wild Coast.
  • Bulungula, in Xora, north of Cintsa and south of Coffee Bay is in a small rural village and is an exciting place for travelers to visit. It's a partnership between the local community and Dave Martin and is both beautiful and actively involved in community development.

Understand

The Wild Coast encompasses the coast between the Kei River Mouth and Umtanvuma River along the Indian Ocean. During the former Apartheid regime the Transkei (the Wild Coast and adjacent interior up to the border with Lesotho) was one of the so called "homelands" and officially politically and economically independent. It is still one of the poorest regions of South Africa. It offers spectacular coastlines without the tourist crowd. The whole region is very rural and infrastructure is sparse, so plan ahead.

Talk

The home of the Xhosa people, the more rural the community, the less likely they'll speak English. See the Xhosa phrasebook.

Get in

By Bus

Public transport to the Wild Coast is sparse but the some of the main bus companies stop in Mthatha and Port St Johns. Alternatively the Baz Bus [2] runs along the Wild Coast on it's way from Port Elizabeth to Durban making it one of the best options in this part of the country. The Baz Bus services Buccaneers Backpackers at its door before heading to Mthatha for its links via a separate shuttle to Coffee Bay and Bulungula. From this point the bus heads to the South Coast, so anyone needing to go to Port St Johns needs to arrange for a shuttle to pick them up at Mthatha.

By Car

The N2 and R61 highway go through the Wild Coast and are currently upgraded, but driving is still an experience, as cows and goats routinely cross the roads. If possible, avoid driving at night, especially off the main routes, as both potholes and livestock can leap out of the dark unexpectedly. Most major bus companies travel through this route.

By Train

As of the beginning of 2009 there is no train service in the Wild Coast. However, the disused railway line from East London to Mthatha has been upgraded and full passenger service between the two may have commenced.

By Plane

The closest International Airport is located in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal, although you can fly in to Mthatha from Johannesburg and possibly other major cities.

Get around

Public transport is limited.

See

  • "The Kraal": Dylan's 'chill village' in Mpande (20km from Port St Johns on the wild coast.
  • Xhosa villages, See the round huts, meet the friendly people, maybe chat with a Sangoma (witchdoctor). Visit a shebeen (local bar). Beer and food available for hikers. NOTE: these people have no cash--don't tempt them by flashing yours!
  • Hsuleka game reserve, Black and Blue wildebeest, 2 kinds of Zebras, raptors, pristine forest, butterflies in season. No lions! Hiking trail huts on a lonely beach at the south end.
  • Silaka game reserve, South of Port St Johns beach 3, beaches, breakers, bush to butterflies. Pay fee here for the Wild Coast trail, at HQ in the middle of the reserve. Hiker's hut on the north end.

Do

  • Wild Coast Trail. One of the world's great hikes, 5 days (Port St Johns - Coffee Bay). Every night on a bed in a hut. Costs about SAR 45 for all; or the old, full 26 days (most other huts are in ruins) all the way down the Wild Coast, beaches and bush and sunshine, spirit and locals' smiles. Game reserves, few roads, fewer automobiles. Be prepared to ford estuaries! Wear sandals when crossing in case of stings. The moment the tide starts IN is least dangerous. Rumours of sharks are overstated. Fresh water streams at least once a day, use iodine. Firewood sufficient. Guides not needed. BEWARE OF UNDERTOWS WHILE SWIMMING! People have walked solo 42 days, no worries. A hat suitable for strong winds is a must!
  • Wild beaches, clothing optional, sunblock a must, cover up for conservative locals, beware of undertows.
  • Beach fishing, km after km of undeveloped, unexplored shores
  • Surfing, go to The Kraal for the best Wild Coast Surf experience
  • Spare fishing, go diving with Dillon or Ryan and catch your supper

Eat

  • Wood oven food, at the Kraal

Drink

Sleep

  • Morgan's Bay: Seaside village with magnificent cliffs that plunge into the sea.
  • Kei mouth: Southern gateway to the Wild Coast via one of South Africa's two remain pontoon car ferries.

Get out

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