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Vienna/Innere Stadt

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Austria : Vienna : Innere Stadt
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New Castle (Neue Burg) of the Hofburg palace with National Library
Hofburg Palace

Innere Stadt is in Vienna.

Get in

See

Museums

  • Museum of Fine Arts (Kunsthistorisches Museum), (U2/U3 Volkstheater, tram D, 1, 2, 46, 49, bus 2A, 57A Burgring Maria-Theresien-Platz Stop), 525 24 0, [1]. Tu-W, F-Su 10AM–6PM, Th 10AM–9PM. One of the world's greatest art museums and in a palace that is a work of art itself. Serious art fans may wish to devote more than a day to its treasures. There is no other word to describe the Kunst other than mind boggling. It contains a world-class exhibit of the Habsburgs' art collection, including Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, Bosch, and Brueghel. The Museum has an excellent collection of ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman art. The coin & medals collection is also exhaustive in its scope. The Museum cafe is a bit pricey, but good, and in a beautiful setting. Hand-held photography is permitted. €14, students €11.
  • Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer; aka the Secular and Ecclesiastical Treasures), (in the Neue Hofburg), [2]. The best part of the Hofburg and an absolute must. It contains the Habsburgs' collection of jewels, crowns, and other valuables, perhaps the best on the Continent. Second only to a tour of the Kunsthistorisches Museum itself, of which the Schatzkammer is officially a part. There are 20 rooms of priceless treasures that give a fairly accurate feel for Habsburg court life over the centuries. €7 (as a combined ticket with the Museum of Fine Arts).
  • The New Palace (Neue Hofburg). The newest and largest section of the Imperial Palace. It contains the Ethnological Museum and three branches of the Museum of Fine Arts. The Ephesus Museum contains classical art from Asia Minor. The Collection of Historical Musical Instruments is self-explanatory, but the jewel of the New Palace is the Collection of Arms. This collection, second largest in the world, houses an immense and exhaustive representation of weaponry from past centuries.
  • Albertina, [3]. Once a palace, it is now the most popular exhibition space in Vienna, mainly for traditional modern art. The building itself is an experience as well. It is home to a valuable drawing collection, including many works of the German Renaissance painter, Dürer. €9.50.
  • MAK (Austrian Museum of Applied Arts / Contemporary Art), Stubenring 5 (Subway U3, tram 1, 2, bus 1A, 74A to Stubentor, and U4 to Landstrasser Hauptstrasse, City Airport Train from the airport to Bahnhof Wien Mitte), +43 1711360, [4]. Tu 10AM-midnight, W-SU 10AM-6PM. The museum has the MAK Design Shop and a study collection. The museum exhibits contemporary art, design, and architecture. Free admission on Sa.
  • Natural History Museum, [5]. This museum was erected as a mirror to its twin museum, the Museum of Fine Arts. It exhibits various minerals, meteorites, fossils, stuffed animals, and skeleton reconstructions of dinosaurs and other. It also includes an anthropological section, where you can see the beautiful Venus of Willendorf which is 25,000 years old. Most signs and explanations in the museum are only in German, and you will likely receive little sympathy for this from museum staff. Expect museum guards to rush you out at least 15 minutes before closing time.
  • The Music House ('Haus der Musik), (U1, U2, U4, trams 1, 2, 62, 65, J and D, stop Karlsplatz/Opernring), [6]. . Closes at 9PM. This is a relatively new and special museum. It attributes great value to interactive learning experience. It covers the history of the Vienne Philharmonic Orchestra, the history of Vienna as a centre of music making (Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, Mahler, Schubert and others are documented). In addition there are the more experimental sections of futuristic composition (The Brain Opera) and sound experiences.
  • Museum at the Scottish Monastery (Museum am Schottenstift), (U2, trams 1,2,37-38,40-44, D, stop Schottentor), [7]. A nice, small picture gallery mainly of Baroque Austrian painting.
  • Gallery of the Academy of Fine Arts (Gemäldegalerie), [8]. A gallery owned by the Academy of Fine Arts, to which Hitler applied to before he decided to change to politics. It offers some paintings of Rubens and Bosch. Most interesting are the Renaissance and medieval exponents.
  • Otto Wagner Museum, (near the Schwedenplatz U1 stop, trams 1,2, 21, N), [9]. At the post office of his original design. At this museum you can see the more serious aspect of his artistic enterprise, that of public life. At the museum you can see some of the original furniture as well as his plans.
  • Jewish Museum, [10]. A museum documenting the history of Vienna's substantial Jewish community which included Zweig, Freud, Herzl, Mahler, and Schoenberg. Three sites are available for one combined ticket: two museum sites and the main synagogue. Attached to the museum at Judenplatz are the archaeological remains of a medieval synagogue. The Stadttempel, the only historical synagogue in Vienna to have survived World War II, is accessible on through the guided tour.
  • Film Museum, [11]. A cinema for showing specially curated films and retrospective.
  • Mozart House (Mozarthaus Vienna), Domgasse 5 (U1/U3 Stephansplatz, east of the cathedral), +43 1 512 17 91 (, fax: +43 1 512 17 91 91), [12]. 10AM–7PM. This is the Viennese residence of Austria's most famous composer, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and a branch of the Vienna Museum.

Castles and palaces

Hofburg Palace
  • Hofburg Palace, (U3 Herrengasse; tram 1, 2, D, J, alight at Burgring; bus 2A or 3A, alight at Hofburg), [13]. This immense palace complex grew into a large, unwieldy series of buildings over the years and was the imperial residence of the Habsburg emperors until 1918. What began as a medieval castle (whose chapel is the only original element of that building to survive) was expanded and redecorated as the Habsburgs' power increased correspondingly. The Palace Stables and Amalia's Wing were added in the sixteenth century. The Imperial Chancery Wing, Court Library, and Spanish Riding School was added in the eighteenth. In the last century, St Michael's Wing was tacked on and around 1900 the New Palace was completed. Each separate building contains so many treasures that the time spent moving from one to another is like opening box after box of fabulous jewels. The palace now houses the offices of the Austrian President, a convention center, and the Spanish Riding School with its Lipizzaner stallions. The Palace also houses several museums, including the Imperial Apartments, Sisi Museum and Imperial Silver Collection (Kaiserappartements, Sisi Museum, Silberkammer) where you can visit 22 state rooms (9AM-5PM; Jul-Aug 9AM-5:30PM; wheelchair-accessible.). These are the residential and state apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph I. and Empress Elisabeth (popularly known as Sisi) and show 19th-century imperial life. The Imperial Silver Collection displays unique items of the glittering world of imperial dining. You can purchase a single ticket for all three museums or purchase the "Sisi Ticket", which entitles you to visit the Schönbrunn Palace, Hofburg with Audio Guide (Imp. Apartments, Sisi Museum, Imp. Silver Collection), and Imperial Furniture Museum.

Religious buildings

  • Kapuzinerkirche, Tegetthoffstraße 2, 512. 10AM-6PM, 1 and 2 Nov closed. Notable mainly as the site of the Kaisergruft, a mausoleum housing the tombs of generations of Habsburg royalty. Adults €4, families €9, seniors, students, groups €3, under 14 €1.50.
  • Jesuitenkirche, Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz 1, 5125232. 7AM-6:30PM. Has one of the most elaborate Baroque interiors in Europe.
  • Augustinian Friars' Church (Augustinerkirche), Josefsplatz 1 (facing the sculpture in the center of the square, the entrance is small and easy to miss, it is on the left hand wall of the square). Tours of the Herzgruft M-F 11AM, 3PM. Yet another example of the gruesome divide-and-conquer burial strategy of the Habsburg dynasty. It is said that other dynasties waged countless wars to acquire new lands, but you, happy Austria, marry. Even in death, the Habsburgs placated three different churches with the honor of caring for their remains. The best known, the Kapuzinergruft, contains their actual bodies. St Stephens holds their innards (intestines and other parts taken out during the preservation process). But the Augustinerkirche holds, in the Herzgruft (Heart Crypt), all the Habsburgs' hearts. The tradition began in 1627 with Emperor Ferdinand IV, who wanted to lay his heart at the feet of the Mother of God, literally. His heart, and those of his descendants, are preserved in silver jars which are carefully cared for by the Augustinian friars who run the church. When the renovation was underway it was found that the preservative in some of the caskets had evaporated over the years, leaving nothing but a dried-out, mummified heart.
Stephansdom
  • Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral), Stephansplatz (U1, U3 Stephansplatz), +43/ (0)1/ 515 52-3526, [14]. High Mass: Su and public holidays 10:15AM, in Jul and Aug 9:30AM, guided tours of the Cathedral in English: M-Sa 3:45PM, catacombs (only with guided tours): M-Sa 10AM-11:30AM, 1:30PM-16:30PM; Su and public holidays 1:30PM-6:30PM; North Tower (great bell): Nov-Mar 8:30AM-5PM, Apr-Jun and Sep—Oct 9AM-6PM, Jul and Aug 9AM-6PM; South Tower: 9AM-5:30PM. Yet another patchwork of architectural styles, but predominantly Gothic. None of the original construction remains, the oldest extant sections are the thirteenth century Giant Gate (Riesentor) and Towers of the Heathens (Heidentürme), both of which are Romanesque. The 448 ft South Tower (Südturm), often known by its Viennese diminutive Steffl (also a nickname for the entire cathedral), was finished in 1433. This is where the Pummerin, a huge bell cast from melted-down Turkish cannons, hangs. Steffl's intended twin, the North Tower (Nordturm), was never finished. In 1511, building in Gothic style ceased due to being out of fashion. Over fifty years later, in 1579, a Renaissance spire was added to the Nordturm to make it look less like the builders had stormed off the job. The main altar has a Baroque panel showing St. Stephen, Christianity's first martyr. The organized tour is worth it, since some of the finest works of art in the cathedral can only be seen with a guide, such as Emperor Frederick III's red marble sepulchre and the immense Gothic carved Altar of Wiener Neustadt. The aborted North Tower has an observation deck with an amazing view of downtown Vienna. Nearby is the entrance to the catacombs, where legions of bishops and Habsburg body parts are buried (the intestines, specifically).
  • The Old Synagogue. Underneath the Judenplatz (The Jewish Square), you will find this underground medieval synagogue excavation. Amazingly, the synagogue was destroyed centuries ago, but its existence was remembered by the area's inhabitants up to the 20th Century. If you are interested in Vienna's Jewish side you can buy a combined ticket with the Jewish Museum and the Stadttempel, a well preserved 19th Century synagogue, which is being used as the main city's synagogue by the current growing Viennese Jewish community.

Other attractions

  • Austrian National Library (Österreichische Nationalbibliothek), Josefsplatz 1, 01/53410-348, [15]. Card catalogs may be an anachronism in today’s digitized world, but this library had the first one in existence, invented by the Habsburg court librarian. Unlike the printed library catalogs of the past, bound into book form, the card catalog could be rapidly updated and the library kept up-to-date. This well-ordered reader's paradise has a collection that outshines many museums, thanks to its long association with the Habsburg imperial family. It gained an impressive collection when Emperor Josef II dissolved all the empire's monasteries – 300 manuscripts, 3,000 printed books, and 5000 diplomata. The library's collection is approximately six million items strong and is the largest in Austria. It is a pioneer in digitalizing and placing its collection online. The oldest book in the collection is a fifteenth century Holy Gospels manuscript with scenes representing the four Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John) containing the coats of arms of the House of Austria, Styria, Tirol, and Carinthia, then ruled by Albrecht III, the book's owner.
  • Chapel of the Imperial Palace (Burgkapelle). The original chapel of the Palace, built in Gothic style 1447-1449, was made over in Baroque style. On Sundays and Catholic holidays (of which the Austrians celebrate many), the Court Musicians perform here. This group is made up of members from the Vienna Boys Choir, as well as performers from the orchestra and choir of the Vienna State Opera.
Parliament
  • Parliament, [16]. Open only when not in use by Parliament. Guided tours in German or English. €4, students €2.
Opera House
  • Opera House (Wiener Staatsoper), [17]. Probably the most-beloved symbol of Viennese arts, and one of the first buildings to be rebuilt in the postwar era. It was built from 1861-1869 under the direction of architects Eduard van der Nüll and August von Siccardsburg for then-emperor Franz Josef I. The first performance was Don Giovanni, an opera by Austrian native Mozart, on 25 May 1869. The architecture of the opera was barely tolerated by the picky Viennese when it opened. Van der Nüll did not take these criticisms of his work lightly and committed suicide. A few weeks later, von Siccardsburg died of a heart attack. Doubly cursed, the opera building succumbed to bombs less than 100 years later, during WWII. After ten years of Allied control after the end of the war, many cultural institutions reopened to celebrate the birth of the new Austrian state. This time the opera opened with an adopted son of Vienna's work: Beethoven's Fidelio. The lush curtains and overall elegance contribute to the atmosphere (even the nosebleed seats, so steeply pitched and close to the ceiling a nosebleed becomes a distinct possibility). Inexpensive standing room tickets are made available for every performance and sold the day of the performance. The line forms about two hours prior to the performance. Guided tours in a number of languages are offered. The line at the front side door forms about 1/2 hour before the tour.
Sezession
  • Secession Building, Friedrichstraße 12 (U-Bahn U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz), 587 53 07-0, [18]. Tu, W, F-Su 10AM-6PM, Th 10AM-8PM, guided tours Sa 3PM, Su 11AM and by appointment. Architect Josef Maria Olbrich built this Jugendstil (German-style Art Nouveau) building 1897-98 as a display space for artists working in the new Secession artistic movement. It is topped by a giant, frothy golden ball, lovingly called Krauthappel by the Viennese, but the building was definitely not loved when it first opened. Notice a reactionary Viennese pattern here? The opera building too was hated at first, but at least it was not called a temple for bullfrogs or a bastard begot of temple and warehouse as the this building was. The entryway features the motto of the Secessionist movement: Der Zeit ihre Kunst, der Kunst ihre Freiheit (to the time, its art, to the art, its freedom). Olbrich's mentor Otto Wagner, and also Gustav Klimt, whose astounding Beethoven Frieze is partially preserved in the basement, inspired the building's design. The ceremonial front entrance is separate from the functional glass and steel exhibit hall in back. Entrance fee included with entrance to Belvedere Palace.
  • Schmetterlinghaus, Hofburg, 01/5338570, 01 5332018 (fax: 01 5322872), [19]. Apr-Oct M-F 10AM-4:45, Sa-Su 10AM-6:15PM; Nov-Mar 10AM-3:45PM. A tropical greenhouse with an amazing collection of live butterflies, will delight both children and adults. €5.50, seniors €5, students €4.50, children 3-16 years €3.
  • Spanish Riding School - Spanische Hofreitschule [20] was first mentioned in a document dated 1572 and is the only equestrian institute in the world which follows a Renaissance model of classical schooling. Eleves, or students, begin their training immediately after completion of Austrian primary education (age 15 or 16), and are expected to be both sporty and clever. The school takes its name from a Spanish breed of horse first mentioned in Roman writings. In 1562, Emperor Maximilian II brought some of these Spanish horses to Austria to found a royal stud farm in Kladrub (Bohemia), housing them for a time in the "Stallburg" (oldest section of the Imperial Palace). The present school location was built in 1572. In 1580, Maximilian's brother, Archduke Karl, founded the stud farm in Lipizza near Trieste (now Slovenia). Interest in elegant riding had been growing for about fifty years at that point. During Renaissance times, powerful gentlemen who had already conquered the worlds of finance and politics looked to the writings of antiquity for new learning and an educated lifestyle to which they could aspire. Horsemanship which followed the ancient models described by Socrates and others became the fashion. Xenophon (430 – 354 BC) wrote "Men who understand the art of horsemanship, in truth, look magnificent." Who wouldn't want that? In the new Winter Riding School (built 1729-35), tournaments, masked balls, and other entertainment was held, but this would soon draw to a close – the royal stud farms at Lipizza were threatened by Napoleon several times and twice the precious stud horses were evacuated to Hungary. No photos or video taping allowed.
  • The Ring. The Ringstrasse, or Ring Street, circles the very heart of Vienna. Built on the location of the original city walls, its size is a good indication of how much the city has expanded since medieval times, but more importantly it is the most posh area of downtown. Elegant individuals stroll down the street (there really is no other way to move when walking along the Ring) and play the fashion-do/fashion don’t game under their breath before pausing at one of the innumerable cafes lining the way. A traditional Jause (morning coffee break, around 10AM) and then back to the business at hand, seeing and being seen: Vienna’s favorite pastime.
  • Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery), Simmeringer Hauptstrasse 234, phone 760 41. Graves of honor of Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Strauss, Schönberg and others. Nov-Feb 8AM-5PM, March-April, Sept-Oct 7AM-6PM, May-Aug 7AM-7PM. Take tram 71 from the city center (Schwarzenburgplatz) which was specially retrofitted during the wars to carry corpses (there's even a Viennese expression "taking the #71 tram" as a euphemism for death). For a quicker route take the U3 to Simmering and then tram 71 or 6 from there. The tram stops are named after the cemetery gate next to it, "Zentralfriedhof 1. Tor" is where the old Jewish section is, "Zentralfriedhof 2. Tor" is the main gate. There bus route 106[21] (€0.60 or regular ticket) runs in the cemetary connecting all of the gates and areas. Mozart, Beethoven and other luminaries of the musical world (Schubert, Brahms, Strauss) are buried, or at least memorialized, here. Mozart's body is in a mass grave (as required by the law at that time) in another cemetery – but his memorial is located here with the others. The graves of the composers and other "Ehregräber" (graves of honor) are located in section 32C, near the main road leading from the church. The cemetery has served as a giant park for weekend ramblings since its creation. There are immense monuments shaped like 10ft tall iron canopy beds (within eye shot of the musicians memorial) and other unique shapes. Though it takes some time to get out to the Zentralfriedhof (25 to 30 Minutes total from Stephansplatz), it is worth the trip.

Do

  • Vienna Hofburg Orchestra (Wiener Hofburg Orchester), (at the Hofburg's historic halls, Redoutensaal and Festsaal), +43 1 587 25 52 (, fax: +43 1 587 43 97), [22]. three times a week May - mid Oct. Performs live. The program features the most famous waltz and operetta melodies by the King of the Waltz, Johann Strauss, Franz Léhar and opera aries by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It is led by conductor Gert Hofbauer, is composed of 36 musicians and six international vocal soloists from Vienna’s largest orchestral societies. On 31 Dec and 1 Jan the orchestra also performs the traditional New Year's Eve and New Year's Day Concerts in the flower decorated halls at the Vienna Hofburg.
  • Opera Film Festival, Rathausplatz. Jul, Aug. Each day, weather permitting, you can watch an opera on a huge open-air screen. On another part of the square, there are plenty of food stalls (maybe a little overpriced) who offer Viennese, as well as international food. On pleasant summer evenings, the atmosphere can be quite relaxing.

Buy

  • Kärntner Straße, (runs north and south from the Oper(a) (Karlsplatz U1/U2/U4) to Stephansplatz). A major shopping artierial with mostly international chains.
  • Am Graben, (continuing from Stephansplatz (U1) to the going to west). An up-scale shopping promeade, with many local specialties such as Wien Porzellan.
  • Kohlmarkt. Prehaps the fanciest shopping area picking up from the end of the Graben jogging over to Michaelerplatz with almost exclusively high-end luxury shops and designer stores.
  • Dorotheum, [23]. The main auction site in Austria. Exhibits all sorts of furniture, art, jewelry, and much more. Highly recommended. There are several locations throughout the city, the main one being at Dorotheergasse 17 in the city center. The surrounding streets in this area offer a great many antique shops, where quality and prices tend both to be very high.
  • Augarten Porzellan, Stock-im-Eisen-Platz 3 (U1 Stephansplatz), [24]. Daily tours and sales at 10AM (in Leopoldstadt-U2 Taborstraße). The finest porcelain in Europe. You can also visit their factory at the main entry to the Augarten. They are currently prepairing a limited street-art themed line as an artistic project, now that is Viennese.
  • Meinl am Graben, Graben 19, [25]. A legendary store. Its two floors hold many exotic as well as local wares. Even if you do not intend to buy anything, it is worth a look as there are likely things you have never heard of. The store holds just about every kind of wine you can think of, and has a great selection of pastas, chocolate, and cheese. Also has a wide selection of coffee, their own is one of the most recognized in Austria.
  • Billa, Neuer Markt 17. Its range is not as wide as Meinl's ones but still better than that of a typical supermarket.

Eat

Budget

  • Esterházykeller, Haarhof 1, 01/533-3482, [26]. Atmospheric old (since 1683) cellar restaurant serving good, cheap, wine, beer, and simple traditional food. Vegetarian options are limited. Price: moderate. A good place to go if you just want a drink and some grub, but still want to enjoy some local color.
  • Maschu Maschu 1, (close to the Schwedenplatz underground station), 01/533 29 04, [27]. So-Mi 11:30AM-midnight, Do, Fri, and Sat until 4PM.. Good for veggies and meat eaters alike. Maschu Maschu is an Israeli fast food joint that serves some of the best falafel in the world. A healthy and gut busting falafel and beer should cost around €7 and leave you set up for the day (they also serve a wide range of other Middle Eastern meals).
  • Mensa at the NIG, Universitätsstraße 7, 7ht floor (near the University of Vienna (Dr. Karl Lueger Ring 1)), [28]. (NIG is the Neues Institutsgebäude - a University of Vienna building) During the summer you can sit outside and enjoy the sun. You have a nice view over the roofs of Vienna. € 4,50.
  • Chattanooga, Graben 29A (close to Stephansplatz), 9251185. Fast food versions of local food. Not bad if you are on a budget and do not have much time to spare. Mains at €9.

Mid-range

  • Akakiko, Singerstraße 4 (just off the Graben), [29]. Part of a local chain. Non-smoking. Informal and popular place serving generic but reasonably priced Japanese and Korean dishes. The menu has a vegetarian section. Quick service by efficient waiters.
  • Brezl-Gwölb, Ledererhof 9 (close to Am Hof and Judenplatz, between Färbergasse and Drahtgasse, a bit hidden), +43/1/533 88 11 (), [30]. 11:30AM-1AM. A very nice restaurant with a cellar dating back to the 17th century. The furniture consists of parts from three centuries. A place that deserves the label gemütlich. They play classical music and serve some really unique dishes.
  • Bio Bar von Antun, Drahtgasse 3 (in between Platz am Hof and Judenplatz), +43/1/968 93 51 (), [31]. M 11:30AM-3PM, Tu-F 11:30AM-3PM, 5:30PM-11PM, Sa-Su noon-11PM. Really nice organic vegetarian and vegan restaurant and bar with colourful decor. A great place for those who want to sample traditional Viennese food like Wiener Schnitzel but in meat free versions. Has a good range of organic beers and wines. Lunch mains €5.90-10.90, dinner mains €8.50-15.90.
  • Diglas, Wollzeile 10, +43 1 51257650 (), [32]. 7AM-midnight. Famous traditional coffeehouse, and equally place for having a meal. Menu (not linked from the web site): [33] Soups €3.70, mains €10-16, capuccino €4.10.
  • Figlmüller, Wollzeile, 512 61 77, [34]. 11AM-10:30PM. Famous for Wienerschnitzel. They claim to have the biggest schnitzel in the world. If you are not really hungry, one may easily be enough for two people (just ask for a second plate). Traditionally, you would want a potato salad with that.
  • Inigo, Bäckerstraße 18, 01 512-7451 (, fax: 01-512 74 51 00), [35]. M-Sa 9:30AM-noon. Modern and diverse cuisine, not crowded but most visitors are local. Charming modern interior instead of imperial chic. Overall, a rare combination of features. Menu is equal paritet between vegetarian and meat-eating. Friendly to families with toddlers. Almost non-smoking. Staff speaks only basic English. Great bulgur here. Mains around €10, average dinner with a glass of wine €20.
  • Koi, Schwarzenbergstraße 8/1, 208 08 61. 1AM-midnight. Asian cuisine. Arguably a delicious change to traditional Austrian fare. Great ambience, lounge music, has non-smoking area.
  • Café Landtmann, Dr. Karl Lueger-Ring 4 (near the Rathaus, right beside Burgtheater), +43/1/24 100 - 0 (), [36]. 7:30AM-midnight. All menus until 11:30am, except Franz Landtmann served until 3pm. Old café, cozy and romantic. Used to be frequented by Sigmund Freud. Delicious food and desserts. Breakfast sets €7-12.50, menu of the day around €11, starters €8-14, soup €4-8, schnitzel €20, coffee €4.
  • Le Bol, 1., Neuer Markt 14, 0699 / 1030 1899, [37]. Fine French Provencal-style fare with a communal table at the center and a smoking section only at the back, goat cheese salad is highly recommended (€6,90).
  • Levante, Wallnerstraße 2, 533 23 26. Part of a world-wide but small chain which has several branches in Vienna. The one on Wallnerstrasse is full service. Authentic Middle-Eastern restaurant serving mostly Turkish and Greek dishes with some Viennese daily specials. Good place for both meat-eaters, for the kebabs, and vegetarians, for the many Middle Eastern salads.
  • Palmenhaus (brasserie), Burggarten 1, 01 5331033, [38]. Nov-Feb W-Th 11:30AM-midnight, F-Sa 10AM-2AM, Su 10AM-midnight; Mar-Oct 10AM-2AM. Good value for money, great democratic ambience without imperial decor. Large mains served with a bowl of salad included. Very high ceilings, full of air and palms. Friendly staff speaks fluent English. Children-safe wide couches. Consider seating at elevated Mezzanine (reservation recommended) which has a special view over park. Full lunch €18.
  • Pat's Brainfood, Plankengasse 4 (tucked away on a little side street of Neuer Markt), 0664/2038303. M-Th 11:30AM-3:30PM, F 11.30AM-3PM. A wonderfully creative and fresh soup and salad joint with a weekly rotating menu and take-away. Standing room only.
  • Reinthaler, Gluckgasse 5 (just south of the Kapuzinerkirche). One of the better traditional Beisl restaurants, with old fashioned food priced below comparable places. Daily specials usually include a couple of vegetarian options. Good non-smoking section.
  • Reisinger's am Salzgries, Salzgries 15, +43 676 648 17 48 (), [39]. M-Th 11:30AM-10PM, F 11:30AM-3:30PM. Small restaurant/Beisl. Daily changing menu, Viennese and Mediterranean food and fabulous home made desserts. Beer on tap, wines by the glass, home made lemonade. 25 seats indoor, 12 seats outdoor. English menu.

Splurge

  • Hollmann Salon, Grashofgasse 3 (Heiligenkreuzerhof), +43 1 961196040 (), [40]. Modern Austrian cuisine in one of Vienna's most beautiful courtyards from the baroque period.
  • Dukai (in Grand Hotel), Kärntnerring 9. On Saturday and Sunday they try to combine classiness and a buffet. Impressive standards.
  • Daihachi (in Hotel de France), Schottenring 3, 31 368, [41]. Sushi bar popular with business travellers. Serves fresh and tasty fish that comes at a high price.
  • Procacci, Göttweihergasse 2, 512 22 11, [42]. Bar M-Sa 11:30AM-1AM, restaurant M-Sa 11:30 AM-midnight. Excellent northern Italian fare with a range of fine specialties. Slightly small portions but an extensive wine list to drown this particular sorrow in. Reservations recommended.
  • Artner II, Franziskanerplatz 5 (opposite Kleines Cafe), 503 50 34, [43]. M-Su 10AM-2AM. Belongs to a famous winery. Offers creative, fresh fare that tends to be on the lighter side than most Austrian cuisine. Excellent wine cellar, reservations recommended.
  • Fabios, Tuchlauben 6, +43 1 532 2222 (), [44]. M-Sa bar 10AM-1AM, restaurant noon-11:30PM. Italian fish restaurant combined with bar/lounge for Vienna's glitterati. Quality is excellent, but prices are steep. Entrés €30-35.
  • Plachutta, Wollzeile 38, 01/512 15 77 (, fax: 01/512 15 77-20), [45]. 11:30AM-midnight, kitchen closes at 11:15PM. A very nice restaurant that specializes in beef (claimed to be only local and from trusted farmers) and has some flavour of traditional Austrian cuisine. Try the Tafelspitz, it comes in a copper pan and still is in the soup it was cooked (the soup alone is worth a trip to Vienna). Alternativel, try Backhendl. The chef claims that they prepare more than 100 kg of beef each day. Probably three to five waiters will be at your disposal. Reservation is recommended. Mains €18-€26.
  • Tenmaya, Krugerstraße 3, 512 73 97, [46]. 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-11PM. Traditional Japanese restaurant and setting that serves everything from kaiseki to teppanyaki. Reservations recommended.

Drink

Cafés

  • Hawelka, Dorotheergasse 6 (just 100 m from the Stephansdom, hidden in a side street), +43 (1) 512 82 30 (fax: +43 (1) 32 815 31), [47]. M, W-Sa 8AM-2AM, Su 10AM-2AM. One of the most famous intellectual cafes in Vienna. Established in 1939. Surprisingly cheap for its location and its fame and can get quite cozy. Josephine Hawelka (former owner, deceased 2005) was proud of the marriages she caused by placing random people together at tables. Try the Buchteln. Usually quite smoky.
  • Griensteidl, Michaelerplatz 2 (near the Hofburg and the Michaelerkirche), +43-1-535 26 92-0, [48]. An elegant café/restaurant where you also get warm food for lunch. Smoking is banned from this traditional coffee house.
  • Tirolerhof, Führichgasse 8 (just behind the opera and near the Albertina). M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 9:30AM-9PM. Quaint, traditional café with art deco accents. Established in 1900.
  • Prückel, Stubenring 24, Luegerplatz, [49]. Established in 1903. Quite the hang-out in the evening, during the day this cafe is a bit more laissez-faire. Live piano music every M, W, F from 7PM-10PM.
  • Demel, Kohlmarkt 14 (walk 5 min from St. Stephan along Graben pedestrian street, Kohlmarkt is on your left hand), +43/1/535 17 17-0 (, fax: +43/1/535 17 17-26), [50]. 10AM–7PM. Café and confectionary shop. Good pastries are ubiquitous in Vienna, but Demel is considered by many to have the best of all and indeed was once the pastry caterer to the Imperial household. As a result of this it is usually jammed with tourists, though their amusing marzipan display window can be admired even from the street. Outdoor seating in warm weather, but the inside is more atmospheric. Partly smoke-free.
  • Kleines Café (lit. small cafe), Franziskanerplatz 3. As the name suggests, this café is rather small. It was created by architect Hermann Czech during the 1970s for notable Austrian actor Hanno Pöschl, who still owns it. It is a popular meeting place for artists and actors (or would-be variants) and enjoys an excellent location in a quiet square inside the city. The few seats are often occupied but hang around and they are vacated regularly. Seating on the square in fine weather, a bit smoky at peak times.
  • Cafe-Museum, Operngasse 7, +43 1 586 52 02, [51]. This cafe was designed by famous architect Adolf Loos, however the interior has been entirely refitted (most recently from 2010, its 80s atmosphere is now gone). Serves food as well as coffee, teas, and other drinks. Casual, quiet atmosphere, good non-smoking section.
  • Cafe Central, Corner Herrengasse/Strauchgasse, [52]. One of most famous Vienna coffee houses, recently authentically restored. Beautiful premises inside the Palais Ferstel, it is too touristy and a bit more expensive for having a meal, but can be worth it for a cup of coffee. There is an occasional pianist that is delightful to hear, and a good non-smoking section.

Bars

  • Alt Wien, Bäckerstrasse 9, 01/512-5222. This cafe/restaurant/bar is on a very medieval-looking lane in the central district and is a time warp of another kind: its folky-bohemian atmosphere could convince you you're in North Beach or Greenwich Village, circa 1967. Liveliest late.
  • American Bar (sometimes called the Loos American Bar or Loos Bar), Kärntner Durchgang 10, 01/5123283 (), [53]. Th-Sa noon-5AM, Su-We noon-4PM. This bar will delight fans of Art Deco. Famous for its architecture and interior decoration by architect Adolf Loos, it is a time warp of Vienna from 1908 when it opened. Drinks are expensive, but very good and the price is worth the experience. This is a quiet, sophisticated bar, where boisterous behavior or very casual dress will not be appropriate. Usually smoky due to small size. There is outdoor seating in warm weather but there is not much point in using it since what justifies the prices is the interior. Groups and sight-seers are not admitted.
  • Flex, Donaukanal (U2 or U4 Schottenring, Exit Augartenbrücke), 533 75 25 (), [54]. You have not been to Vienna if you have not been to the Flex, particularly if you are younger than thirty. The meeting point of the off-mainstream, bohemian, artsy people. During the summer nights when it is warm, there are always a lot of people sitting on benches outside the club. It's easy to socialise and make new friends. Inside the club you can enjoy bands and DJs. At the bar you can ask for free soda water.
  • 1516 Brewing Company, Schwarzenbergstraße 2, +43 1 9611516, [55]. A brewery and a bar with quality beers. The food menu includes Viennese classics and burgers. A non-smoking area upstairs.

Nightlife

  • Bermuda Triangle, (next to Schwedenplatz (U1, U4)). A night-life area popular with tourists.
  • Clubschiff, (floating in the canal), [56]. Alternative clubs.
  • Passage, (in a fromer underpass on the Ring, behind the Art History Museum), [57]. An up-scale club.
  • Volksgarten, [58]. Up-market.
  • Club Habana, Mahlerstraße 11 (Karlsplatz-Oper U1, U2, U4). Has a Latin theme.
  • Badeschiff, (in the Danube Canal just south of Schwedenplatz (U1, U4)), [59]. An orange boat. All sorts of events and parties go on here, in the summer you can take a dip in the outdoor pool-bradge during the day. There is a lower leval that is the main club at big parties and a more comfortable lounge upstairs.

Sleep

Budget

Mid-range

  • Arenberg Hotel & Pension, Stubenring 2, +43-1-5125291 (, fax: +43-1-5139356), [60]. A charming family owned hotel. From €188.
  • Aviano Pension, Marco dAviano Gasse 1, +43 1-512 83 30 (, fax: +43 1-512 83 30-6), [61]. checkin: 2PM; checkout: 11AM. Charming small pension. Good breakfast, very friendly to families with toddler (except a small staircase prior to elevator). Free grog for guests in the afternoon. Free excellent wifi in all rooms. Helpful reception most of the time, also in finding a right place to eat. Comfortable for non-smokers. Doubles €124-169 depending on season.
  • Hotel Pension Residenz, Ebendorferstraße 10 (next to Rathaus and the Wiener Ringstraße), +43-1-40647860 (, fax: +43 1 406478650), [62]. Three star hotel.
  • Hotel am Schubertring, Schubertring 11 (directly on the famous Ringstrasse), +43-1-71702-0 (, fax: 7139966), [63]. A charming private hotel in the heart of the city. Special guest rate garage parking available. Doubles from €128.

Splurge

  • Hotel Sacher, Philharmonikerstraße 4 (next to the Opera and at the end of the pedestrianized Kärtner Strasse shopping area), +43/ (0)1/ 514 56 0 (, fax: +43/ (0)1/ 514 56 810), [64]. This hotel is best known as the place where Sachertorte (cake) was invented. The elegant drawing room is a popular place to gather after a performance at the opera. The food is pricey but definitely worth the money. The rooms offer old style luxury with heavy carpets. €286+.
  • Hotel Imperial, Kärntner Ring 16 (at the ring), +43 (0)1/ 501100, [65]. Build in 1863 as a Viennese residence for the German Prince of Württemberg in neo renaissance style. In total imperial style and impeccable service. €300+.
  • Hotel Palais Coburg, Coburgbastei 4, +43 (0)1/518 18-0, [66]. A converted historic building that now has an outstanding restaurant (perfect wine list) and spa. Beside some rooms mostly suites and impeccable service. €600+.
  • Hollmann Beletage, Köllnerhofgasse 6, +43-1-9611960 (, fax: +43 1 9611960-33), [67]. Boutique hotel. Only 25 rooms, contemporay design, gourmet breakfast. From €150.
  • Vienna Marriott Hotel, Parkring 12a (at Ringstrasse, opposite Stadtpark, close to Stubentor metro), [68]. Offers 313 rooms and suites, an indoor pool and health club, business center and shops. The restaurants and bars are popular gathering places.
  • Le Méridien Vienna, Opernring 13, +43/ (0)1/ 588 90 0 (, fax: +43/ (0)1/ 588 90 9090), [69]. Opened in late 2003 and is done in a very modern, artsy Art + Tech design. All rooms have flat screen TVs and massage showers. Features a breakfast buffet and bar. €163+.
  • The Ring, Kärntner Ring 8 (opposite Vienna State Opera), +43 1 22 1 22. Casual luxury five star boutique hotel. Has an unexpected interior, which mixes the traditional with the modern. Many of the building's historic details have been preserved to ensure the hotel remains all of its historic charm.
  • k+k Palais hotel (k+k), Rudolfplatz.
  • Hotel Am Parkring, Am Parkring 12, +43-(1)- 514 80-0 (fax: +43-(1)- 514 80-40), [70].
  • viennaresidence | business rental apartments, Mariahilferstraße 124/10, +43-(1)307 2222 (, fax: +43-(1)307 2222 9), [75].

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