Difference between revisions of "Tortola"
Latest revision as of 17:08, 17 April 2014
English is universally spoken throughout the British Virgin Islands. Those who work with tourists will speak quite clearly, but older natives have a thick and distinctive West Indian accent that, when spoken quickly, can be very difficult to understand. Because of the influence of British culture, a stronger emphasis is placed on politeness and decorum. It is generally expected to begin any conversation with a "Good morning," or whatever time of day is applicable; the common American English habit of simply beginning a conversation without salutation is considered aggressive and even rude.
Air travel is the usual way to access the BVI, however, long-distance direct flights are not available, and you must transit one of the four Caribbean gateways; San Juan (IATA: SJU), St. Thomas (IATA: STT), Antigua (IATA: ANU) & St. Maarten (IATA: SXM). Connections are readily available through commuter airline operations on the lower end, if your schedule allows.
Private charter flights are unnecessary as there are several reliable airlines serving Beef Island.
Air Charter companies, like Fly BVI and Aeroshares Charter, LLC have become more popular in recent years. These charter flights get you to your destination directly, without transfers or water shuttles. They will also be there if your arriving flight is delayed for any reason.
Terrence B. Lettsome Airport (IATA: EIS) a.k.a. Beef Island Airport is located on the East End of Tortola. Some travelers opt to fly into St. Thomas, having Fly BVI Air Charter meet them for the 14 min flight, while others opt to take the water ferry to Road Town, then take a taxi to their villa or marina, alhough depending on the ferry schedule and your arrival and departure times, this option can virtually tie up the better part of two days during your vacation.
Tortola is also visited by cruise ships. Virtually all dock at a large pier near the entrance to the inner harbor at Road Town, with fairly easy walking into town.
The Tortola Ferry moves between Tortola and St. Thomas. In actuality, there is a group of several different ferry companies that provide service between the two islands. These ferries are what connects the people of the British Virgin Islands with the people of the U.S. Virgin Islands. The ferries link the city of Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas with either Road Town or the West End of Tortola.
The ferry is one of the more popular ways to reach Tortola from the U.S. This is due to the fact that Americans can reach Tortola via only one direct flight and then a short ferry ride. This will no doubt save the traveler several hundred dollars, since a second flight would not be necessary.
You can catch one of the ferries, almost anytime of day. After 5PM most of the services are shut down for the evening. The ride lasts about 50 min depending on the weather. The scenery is well worth the price of the ride.
Vary greatly between companies. Some of the companies even alternate their schedules between themselves and another company. For a current list take a look at this page's ferry schedule .
Many travelers find it easier to just buy two one-way tickets from different companies instead of one round-trip ticket with the same company. Since ferries from different companies are coming and going constantly, you should be able to catch a ferry at any time during the day. Often times one company will be convenient upon arrival, but not upon departure. Just check the schedule to find out if this will be the case for you, if not then by all means, buy the round-trip ticket and save a few bucks.
Many affluent visitors will take a charter boat trip from one of several marinas to some of the best places, as many smaller and less-inhabited islands offer mooring and amenities. While charter-boat tourism makes up the bulk of travel to the British Virgin Islands, there are many beautiful places throughout the four main islands that are easily accessible.
There are many small independent auto rental businesses, all with relatively comparable rates. Prices range from US$50 per day and up, as demand is usually high. Driving in the BVI can be challenging, as many winding mountain roads and cliffs, washed-out roads, and roaming livestock compound the difficulty for some drivers of driving on the left side of the road. Many roads have large "speed bumps", many of which are not clearly marked by road signs or road paint. Road signs may be confusing or non-existent. Take solice in that this is an island and it is practically impossible to become totally lost. Locals will always help direct you. Driving can be a good way to see the entire island of Tortola at your own pace.
Another way to see the island is to organise a readily available taxi 'tour'. Taxis are abundant on Tortola, and so long as you use a legitimate taxi association driver prices will generally allow you to travel anywhere you wish but for less than the cost of renting a car. Always ensure that you thoroughly confirm the fare charge before you get into the taxi.
Taxi fares are regulated for each of the islands and taxi tariffs are published online by the British Virgin Islands Tourist Board. The 2013 prices can be found here. 
"Buses" in Tortola refers to full-sized passenger vans, or large modified open-air pickup trucks with bench seating and a canvas top: these are known locally as "safaris". Traveling by bus can be less expensive than having a taxi to oneself, and is often an option when traveling from the airport to Road Town, or from town to either end of the island. Note that there is no public transportation, neither regular service.
Hitch-hiking is still fairly common in Tortola during the daytime, as crime is fairly uncommon. Rather than the American "thumb" technique, Tortolan hitch-hikers will point with the index finger from an arm extended in the direction they wish to travel. Pickup trucks will often stop to allow riders in the back, and many drivers on this still-personable and friendly island will stop to give a ride.
To those who do not have their own yachts, there are day sails to some of the more popular BVI locations. One day sails are available on the Aristocat, ☎ +1 284 499 1249) to Virgin Gorda, Cooper, Salt and Peter Islands; and White Squall II, ☎ +1 284 494 25640 to Virgin Gorda, Norman, Peter and the Indians' islands. See BVI Newbie for a complete list of day sail companies.
There's not a heck of a lot to see after you've taken the obligatory tours of the island's "attractions", although the original architecture of little wooden houses housing some interesting shops, cafes and an art gallery or two and Cockroach Hall built on a huge rock on Main Street is not be missed.
Often overlooked are some of the island's interesting historical ruins, including "The Dungeon" (originally named Dojon, a Spanish fort dating from the 1700s) and the "African Church" (officially, St Phillips, a church for African slaves freed by the Royal Navy and dumped on Tortola, and reportedly the first free black church in the Americas). Although not as impressive as the larger colonial era ruins in Saint Kitts and Puerto Rico, they still make a nice change of pace.
For those tired of heat and sun, a stroll around the National Park in the rain forest at the top of Mount Sage offers a cooler alternative. The going is not hard, but the paths can be rough, and the elderly or infirm may want to consider whether to brave the paths.
The Bat Cave
If you’ve been to Brewers Bay, you’ve probably gazed in amazement upon its dramatic horseshoe hillsides. Little may you have known that the northeastern enclave can be accessed through a maze of trails leading through a bat cave and viewpoints that rival those on the cover of National Geographic. You’ll need a car to get there, but parking is limited. Ask a Brewers resident for exact directions.
Salt Island Graves
Take a boat trip to Salt Island, from where the Queen of England still gets a bag of salt each year (via the Governor as payment for rent). Atop a hill on the island, a circle of graves remains from those perished in the wreck of the Rhone in 1867. The unmarked graves continue to eerily exist at a vantage point overlooking Tortola. Head over the salt ponds on the south side of the island to come across a natural salt pond so large it takes over an hour to circle by foot. Nobody inhabits the island anymore, but the salt keeps coming. The Bubbly Pool If you’ve ever docked outside Foxy’s Taboo, this hot spot may just be the best place on Jost Van Dyke to cool down. On the northeast side of Jost, a 15-minute trail leads past a salt pond and up a subtle hillside to a dramatic rocky blowhole that has formed a natural whirlpool. In the winter, when tides are strong, this gentle pool can become a fierce water ride, while its summertime currents encourage quiet relaxation. Hidden Gems of BVI
From the eastern end of Tortola, Beef Island, to the west end, there are many spectacular white-sand beaches along the north shore. Most deepen very gradually and have light surf, allowing for very leisurely swimming. However, some beaches do have heavier surf and undertow, so it is always wise to ask someone, or observe any signs, before swimming. The list below does not encompass all the beaches, but rather points out some of the most popular and easily accessible ones. Take into consideration that BVI has no sewerage system, therefore it is advisable to select beaches in less populated areas.
While Tortola has many of the things you would expect from one of the Virgin Islands like scuba diving, boating and fishing it also has a host of other great things to do like:
With favorable trade winds and near perfect weather, Tortola has become one of the more popular sailing destinations in the world. Thousands of travelers every year raise anchor from Tortola traversing all over the Virgin Islands. Their experience levels range from the professional all the way to the novice (land-lover). Don't think that sailing is just for high rollers, many charter boat companies offer boats for rent as low as US$200 per day in the low season .
In fact many people fly in to Tortola just to hop on a yacht and spend their entire vacation on the vessel. These people will often sail to some of the smaller neighboring islands in search of an uninhabited island where they can have the beach all to themselves. Others set sail to enjoy the great snorkeling or fishing. Anegada is a popular destination because of it's bountiful coral reefs. At night there are plenty of moorings (anchorage balls) available in the larger bays.
If you're a novice and entertaining the thought of taking the boat out for the day, don't worry there are classes available for beginners at just about every marina. If you don't have that kind of time, just hire a captain for the day. They usually only cost about US$150 per day. Many times you can hire a cook for the day for about the same price.
Truth be told, this is not an island for the lover of malls or entertainment complexes. If you're not offshore partying on a yacht, you could be lying on a beach meditating on the beautiful turquoise waters, or scuba or snorkeling looking at the corals and tropical fish, or maybe you're onshore partying at a bar.
Alcohol is immensely popular in the BVI, both beer and island cocktails, most notably rum. For beer, dark beers are rare. Red Stripe and Carib are the local beers, and other popular beers you'd expect to see are available as well. Roadside stands offer ice-cold beer for two or three dollars each, and bars offer beer at a comparable price to what you'd pay in an average-guy bar in the U.S. Rum Punch and Painkillers are two popular drinks. It is not at all unusual to chat up strangers and both buy and receive drinks. Remember to say "Cheers."
Restrictions on alcohol are very light. Bars usually stay open as long as business is booming, frequently about 3AM on weekends. It is acceptable to leave a bar with your beer, and if you know the bar well, not too unusual to walk in with one, either. Smoking is absolutely taboo in every business and public area in the BVI and cigarettes, though sold in the supermarkets are kept in locked cabinets since a recent law in July 2007. Drinking and driving is not actually illegal, but if you are involved in an accident you can be prosecuted for careless driving (on account of intoxication). Police generally do not stop cars until they have crashed, if you are found to be drunk you will be prosecuted for it, and if you were to injure or kill someone you could potentially face a long period of imprisonment - just because drinking and driving is not illegal doesn't mean that it is not stupid.
The roads on the island are at best "basic". Roads that have straightaways have large speed bumps and many of the speed bumps are not clearly marked. Many of the roads through the island have a width for no more than one and a half cars and are in a state of disrepair with numerous switchbacks and grazing livestock. These are not roads that you want to face with any level of intoxication.
Other good bars and party spots: Bomba Shack in Apple Bay, The Bat Cave near Village Cay in Road Town(hot nightclub), Myett's and Quito's in Cane Garden Bay. In Road Town: the Virgin Queen is a sports bar and serves pizzas, Pussers, next door to Le Cabanon offers wild happy hours, ladies' nights and its own blend of rum and rum-based drinks and also draught beer (sometimes). To the east of the island is the Last Resort (fusion dining and an interesting, eclectic cabaret on weekend nights) situated on a small islet off Trellis Bay in the East End (there is a free water taxi).
A work permit is needed for foreigners to work on the island. Work permits are only issued when no locally qualified applicant is available. It is illegal to look for work while on tourist visa.
The US Dollar (US$) is the official currency. Credit cards and travelers checks are widely accepted.
Outside of Road Town, there is Palm's Delight in Carrot Bay also the very strange North Shore Shell Museum which has home-grown soursop daiquiris, good barbeque and a very large number of shells although not much variety in them. In Cane Garden Bay, Stanley's serves burgers and chicken at a budget price and lobster at quite a bit more. The Camp Ground in Brewer's Bay has a very limited menu, but its not expensive. Cruzin's, also in Carrot Bay, has a wonderful island-style atmosphere and great food on the inexpensive side (cruzins.com).
In Road Town and its environs, Nexus, Village Cay Marina, the Pub, and Le Cabanon have good but unremarkable food at mid-range prices. Le Cabanon and Village Cay Marina are more popular as loud and fun bars.
Myetts in Cane Garden Bay has good food a really great bar with the best bartenders in Cane Garden Bay, and some say the best "happy hour" values in Cane Garden Bay, right on the beach with great views. Happy hour usually includes live entertainment with some local artists, and artists from the USA and Canada.
Elms in Cane Garden Bay has very good food, on the beach with good views and excellent Caribbean barbecue on Fridays and Sundays. Live entertainment at dinner on Fridays's and Sundays.
Stanleys in Cane Garden Bay is located right on the beach, good food and a great place to hang out for hours, especially in the afternoon.
BananaKeet on Windy Hill in Carrot Bay has hands down the very best sunset views on Tortola. Great bar and great food. Live entertainment on Wednesdays and Fridays provided by the 12 string guitar and vocals of the well-known local artist Rubin Chinnery. The downside is that this place also has the worst service; you will wait hours for food that never shows up.
The Jolly Roger located in the West End has very good food and is located right on the water. It has a great Caribbean barbecue every night and lots of good musical acts.
Peg Legs located in Nanny Cay has good food and is popular with expats.
If US$200 for two for a meal with wine is what you are looking for, then try these places.
Stings and bites
Like many Caribbean islands, Tortola has its share of critters that bite and annoy. Bring a plentiful supply of insect repellent to keep the sand fleas and mosquitoes at bay. If you are going to be staying in a "villa", understand that many villas are not as always adequately screened as they are in the United States. Consider bringing some light mosquito netting. If you need mosquito netting when you are on Tortola, try Arawak Designs at Prospect Reef. Nothing in the BVI can give you a fatal bite (not even if you are a child), but a sting from a scorpion can hurt like the dickens.
Also in common with the Caribbean generally, the BVI suffers occasional outbreaks of Dengue fever, which is a mosquito borne illness. Although not fatal, it can be very uncomfortable. As with all such things, prevention is better than cure. If you are told that there has been an outbreak of Dengue, be vigilant about applying mosquito repellant and sleeping under a net or in air conditioning.
Certain species of reef fish in the BVI are susceptible to a virulent type of disease called Ciguatera, which makes them extremely toxic to eat. Fish served in a restaurant will be fine, but unless you are are really, really sure, don't eat any fish you have caught yourself without checking with someone knowledgeable. Barracuda are particularly prone, and should never be eaten in the BVI.
Tortola is one of the premier destinations for bareboat sailing charters. However, in the BVI, sailboats are not required to have holding tanks for sewage storage, as they are in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Instead, each boat pumps its raw sewage into the surrounding water. There are rules against flushing the head (toilet) in a marina, but it appears to be unenforceable.
Road Town collects its sewage and pumps it without further treatment into the Sir Francis Drake Channel, several hundred yards offshore.
Toilet paper is not allowed to be flushed from boats. Instead, used toilet paper must be disposed of in the trash can next to the toilet.