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Stockholm archipelago

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The Stockholm archipelago, Stockholms skärgård or skärgården, is a group of thousands of islands in Sweden, easily accessible from Stockholm. They belong to the Uppland and Södermanland provinces.

Understand

From the Middle Ages until the end of the Cold War in the 1990s, the Swedish military has had troops, ships and fortifications in the archipelago, for the defense of Stockholm. Today, most facilities are closed down.

The local population relied on subsistence fishing and farming, isolated from Stockholm's enormous economic progress in the 19th century. During the 20th century, many islands were de-populated, and transformed to summer resorts, with very small population during winter. Today, most island-dwellers commute to Stockholm for work, and enjoy maritime life as a hobby.

Islands

Värmdö (archaic spelling Wermdö) is the largest island in the archipelago, accessible by road. Big enough to resemble the mainland, it contains suburban neighborhoods as well as deep forests, lakes and beaches. Gustavsberg is the main town. Stavsnäs is the main ferry terminal for the southern archipelago.

Vaxholm (archaic spelling Waxholm) is a quaint, road-accessible island-town, with some shopping, and a major boat terminal.

Sandhamn is a resort island in the outer archipelago.

Grinda is a small rural island, near Stockholm and Vaxholm.

Utö is an outer-archipelago idyllic island with a closed-down silver mine, and remains from the mining industry.

Get in/around

Buses to the northern archipelago depart from Tekniska Högskolan. Buses to Värmdö depart from Slussen. Suburban trains to the southern archipelago (involving feeder local buses) depart from Stockholm Central Station. http://sl.se/Visitor/Plan-your-journey/

Most of the large islands can be reached by car, at some locations through free-ride car ferries. http://www.trafikverket.se/Farja/Farjeleder/Farjeleder-i-ditt-lan/Farjeleder-i-Stockholm213/

However, for a good view, take a boat from central Stockholm, see below.

The Baltic Sea ferries offer an elevated, comfortable view of the archipelago, though without the opportunity to set foot on any of them.

Archipelago boats

From April through September numerous services operate directly from central Stockholm to various destinations. The major shipping companies are the public-transport Waxholmsbolaget [1] and the private-owned Strömma (which operates the Cinderella [2] boat series).

Waxholmsbolaget departs from Strömkajen right downhill T Kungsträdgården, and Cinderellabåtarna departs from Nybrokajen, 400 m from T Östermalmstorg or T Kungsträdgården. Other (and basically the only ones during winter) routes operate from suburban mainland jetties connected to the city centre by suburban rail and bus. Vaxholm, reached by bus 670 from T Tekniska högskolan, and Stavsnäs, reached by bus 433 or 434 from T Slussen are examples of this. Also note that even during the summer, when countless services operate from the city centre it is still, generally, a lot faster to travel via a suburban jetty, not to mention a lot cheaper. This is because even though the archipelago is within the metropolitan area, local transport tickets are not valid, and tickets are paid on a distance basis. However, if you're doing multiple trips, it is also possible to buy a 5 or 30 day card (420 SEK and 750 SEK respectively), which belong to Waxholmsbolaget but are also valid on Cinderellabåtarna.

Destinations in the archipelago include (but are far from limited to) Grinda, Svartsö, Finnhamn, Möja, Sandhamn, Ingmarsö, Runmarö, Nämdö and Utö. From April through september most of these can be reached either from the city centre or via suburban jetties. The islands offer a wide variety of nature, from the lush green of the inner archipelago to the bare cliffs of the more distant outposts. Some islands have restaurants, youth hostels and country stores, while others are entirely deserted islands.

A good destination for a day trip is Sandhamn, which is reached either by taking a direct ferry from the city centre (this takes 5 h) or by taking the 433 or 434 bus from the centrally located T Slussen to Stavsnäs and from there a connecting ferry bound for Sandhamn or Hagede (from T Slussen this takes 90-95 min during summer and 110-115 min during winter). Both Waxholmsbolaget and Cinderellabåtarna serve both routes, but again, Cinderellabåtarna service is shut down during winter.

Utö makes another good trip and is accessible from the city centre (takes 3.5 h) or by taking suburban train from Stockholm central station to Västerhaninge, then bus 846 to Årsta brygga and then a connecting ferry (from Stockholm C this takes 90 min during summer and 1 h 45 min during winter). Both routes are served solely by Waxholmsbolaget.

Blidösundsbolaget, [3] is a private company, that serves the northern archipelago, calling at Norrtälje, as well as dining and music cruises.

See

In general, the further out to the ocean, the more spectacular the view. During summer, sailboats add to the scenery. Among peculiarities to expect, are small islets with a single red cabin, and cormorant colonies.

  • Vaxholm fortress
  • Siaröfortet, [4], a fort with a hostel. The island is served by ferries from Östanå, which is reached by bus 626 from T Danderyds sjukhus.
  • Artipelag, [5], an art museum on Värmdö.
  • Gustavsberg Porcelain Museum [6]

Itineraries

Do

Outdoor bathing and hiking. Rod fishing is allowed without a license, at most locations.

Eat

FEJAN 1.5 km long island off Kapellskar previously including quarantine and rescue station . Pub with outdoor seating at own marina . Have even hostels . Price example : Hamburgers on the chuck and brisket SEK 175. www.fejan.se Go here : Waxholmsbolagets boat from Strömkajen in Stockholm or SL bus from Helsinki University of Technology to Räfsnäs bridge just north of Kapellskar , from ferryboat .

FURUSUND Classic archipelago society , this had as August Strindberg and Astrid Lindgren 's summer home. On Furusunds inns , you can sit outside or inside with panoramic views of the fairway, where everything from dinghies to Finland Ferries crossing . Also has 16 rooms . www.furusundsvardshus.se Go here : Bridge to the mainland will allow you to go your own car here , or take the SL bus from Helsinki University of Technology . , Or boat from Strömkajen .

FINNHAMN Like smooth, beautiful cliffs Finnhamn is absolutely right. Finnhamns Café & Pub has many good dishes on the menu and an outdoor veranda next to the steamboat dock . Price example: Pan fried walleye 235 kr. STF youth hostel on the island. www.finnhamn.se Go here : Waxholmsboat Strömkajen .


GRINDA Grinda is a large and lush island in the archipelago. In a yellow stone villa of the early 1900s is Grinda Wärdshus. A somewhat simpler menu served at the inn's back pocket, front pocket , next to its harbor. Price example: Fish and seafood stew SEK 245. Even hotel rooms, cottages and hostels. www.grindawardshus.se Go here : Waxholmsboat Strömkajen , takes about an hour .

SANDHAMN Far out to sea lies Santahamina . The island's most historic pubs is Sandhamns inns, open every day since 1672, and Seglarrestaurangen , inaugurated by King Oscar II's Jubilee Regatta 1897. Price example : Inn Steak with béarnaise 226 SEK ( the inn ) . www.sandhamns - vardshus.se www.sandhamn.com Go here : Most county is to arrive here by steamer, Waxholmsbolagets s / s Norrskär leaving Strömkajen in Stockholm Saturdays and Sundays. Daily boat service from Strömkajen with Cinderellaboats or SL bus from Slussen to Stavsnäs furthest out in Värmdölandet and boat transport from there.


STRÖMMA KANAL On Strömma Pub & Kanalbar you sit right by the water and the beautiful evening sun. Hail to the boats chugging past in the channel while you eat. Price example: Homemade meatballs with cream sauce, mashed potatoes and lingonberry SEK 150. www.strommakrog.se Go here: Private car or SL bus from Slussen.


ORNÖ Ornö tavern in Kyrkviken investing heavily in local produce . Porch with 40 patios. Price example: Pan fried fillet of perch from Ornö 238 kr. www.ornokrog.se Go here: To Ornö goes the car ferry from Dalarövägen , to get there you drive the road to Nynashamn or take the commuter train to Haninge and then SL bus . From Dalarövägen is also regular ferries directly to Kyrkviken Ornö .


UTÖ  Has two popular restaurants , and inns Utö partly Danne Krogen . But it is only at the inn you can eat with lake views, mistaking where when you look out over the vast Mysingen. Also has a hotel section and hostels. www.utovardshus.se www.nyadannekrogen.se Go here: Commuter train from Stockholm to Västerhaninge, then buses to Årsta bridge and from there Utö shipping company's boats. Total travel time just under two hours.

Drink

Most boats in regular traffic have a simple bar, offering regular beer and wine.

Sleep

  • Värmdö Golf & Country Club: [7]
  • Grinda Wärdshus: [8]

Stay safe

Ticks, fästingar, are common in grassy areas of the archipelago.




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