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Shikoku

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Shikoku (四国) is an oft-forgotten island in Japan. The smallest of Japan's Big Four, it lies to the south of Honshu. The island is thought of as a rural backwater, with few must-see attractions, but a visit there can wash away those doubts; particularly the mountainous inner regions offer some good hiking and a glimpse of the elusive Real Japan. It is also the home of the 88 Temple Pilgrimage of the Shingon sect of Buddhism.

Regions

Vine bridge across the Iya Valley

Shikoku literally means "four lands", and it indeed consists of four prefectures, conveniently arranged around the compass points. Each prefecture also has an old provincial name, still often found in place names and listed in parenthesis below.

Cities

  • Kochi — home of "Yosakoi" and many local sights
  • Matsuyama — best known for the venerable hot springs of Dogo Onsen, inspiration of princes and poets
  • Takamatsu — the largest city in Shikoku
  • Tokushima — home of the Awa Odori festival in August
  • Uwajima — (barely) on the tourist map due to an interesting fertility shrine and wrestling bulls
  • Naruto — the east gate of Shikoku.

Other destinations

Understand

Shikoku is a primarily agricultural island, renowned for its citrus fruits. Cutting through the centre of the island is the mighty Yoshino river whose clear waters and big turbulent rapids make for great rafting.

Talk

Shikoku is far enough off the beaten track that some Japanese ability, while not absolutely necessary, will come in handy. Some of Shikoku's dialects, notably Tosa-ben spoken in Kochi, are famously incomprehensible even to other Japanese.

Get in

By car

While there are highways linking Shikoku with Honshu, they should be avoided. Tolls are extremely expensive (about 5000 yen, or roughly $50 USD).

By plane

Prefectural capitals Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Kochi and Tokushima all have small regional airports. Matsuyama has flights to Seoul and Shanghai, while Takamatsu fields a few flights a week to Seoul. For any other international destinations, you will likely have to connect via Tokyo or Kansai.

By train

Shikoku is not connected to the Shinkansen network, but there are frequent connections from Okayama on Honshu to Takamatsu and from there on throughout the island. The limited express Shiokaze (特急 しおかぜ) runs back and forth betweeen Okayama and Matsuyama roughly every hour during the day, skipping some stations on the way, if you feel like a more direct connection to that side of the island. The pace on Shikoku being what it is, don't come there expecting any of the trains to be super fast. It would also be wise to remember that train information will be in Japanese only, unlike what you may be used to from the Shinkansen. So either be sure to brush up on your knowledge of terms such as "unreserved seats" and the names of the places you're planning to visit, in kanji, or plan to ask a lot of people (which may be more fun, but may also take more time).

By bus

If coming from Kansai or eastern parts of Japan, buses through Awaji Island are the fastest way of getting to Shikoku.

By boat

There are numerous ferries that run to Shikoku that can be taken from major cities like Kobe and Hiroshima. From Hiroshima to Matsuyama expect to spend 2700 yen. The ferry takes around 2 and a half hours.

Get around

By train

The JR train network connects the larger towns together fairly well, but regular trains are slow and expresses are expensive. The main lines are:

For heavy travel, JR offers the Shikoku Free Kippu (四国フリーきっぷ), which allows unlimited usage of JR travel (including limited expresses) on three consecutive days (¥15700). For the frugal traveler, the Shikoku Saihakken Kippu (四国再発見きっぷ) may be a better deal, as it offers five days of unlimited travel during three months for just ¥5500. There are two big catches though: it's only valid Fri-Sun (plus public holidays), and it's limited to local travels.

There are some other minor lines with infrequent trains. Some parts of the JR network, notably the southern segment from Kubokawa to Sukumo, have been split off to the private Tosa Kuroshio Railway company.

By bus

Buses fill in the gaps in the train network and are the only means of transport in areas like Cape Ashizuri and the Iya Valley. Schedules are sparse and prices are high.

On foot

Serious pilgrims may choose to complete the 88 Temple Circuit (see Do) on foot.

See

Do

Braving the rapids, Oboke and Koboke
  • 88 Temple Pilgrimage — a famous but grueling 1,647-kilometer hike around the entire island
  • The white-water rafting in the Yoshinogawa river around Oboke and Koboke is arguably the best in Japan.

Buy

  • The most sought after present or "omiyage" after a visit to Shikoku is Udon Noodles. Fresh noodles can be purchased at almost any souvenir shop.
  • Gifts related to the traditional "Henro," or Pilgrim and their outfit unique to Shikoku are also popular, including a "Henro" Hello Kitty cell phone charm. Available in Shikoku souvenir shops, or any airport in Japan (for those travelers who forgot to get "omiyage" while on their trip.)

Eat

There aren't any "Shikokuan" foods per se, but each prefecture has something that they're famous for:

  • Ehime: Sweet mikan mandarin oranges
  • Kagawa: Sanuki udon noodles
  • Kochi: Bonito (Katsuo), a type of small tunafish
  • Tokushima: Sudachi a little smooth green citrus fruit, like a lime

Drink

Sleep

Get out



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