Difference between revisions of "Scotland"
Revision as of 20:18, 24 June 2008
Scotland (Scottish Gaelic: Alba) [1] is one of the four "home nations" that make up the United Kingdom. Sharing a 60 mile (96 km) long land border with England to the south, and separated from Northern Ireland by the North Channel of the Irish Sea, Scotland is surrounded by the bracing waters of the North Sea to the east, and the North Atlantic Ocean to the west and north. The capital is Edinburgh, the largest city is Glasgow. Apart from these and several other cities, the popular image of Scotland for most travellers, of course, centres on the "Highlands and Islands" - a wonderfully diverse land, Scotland has much to offer virtually any traveller.
Regions Administratively, Scotland has been divided into a large number of traditional counties and (currently) 32 modern unitary authorities. These are of only limited use to the traveller, however, and an alternative regionalisation - based on culture and geography - is far more practical (from south to north):
CitiesScotland has six cities. Glasgow is the largest with a population of approximately 620,000 people (more than two million in the metro area) while the capital, Edinburgh, has around 450,000, with Aberdeen next at about 220,000 inhabitants.
Other destinationsScotland has extensive wilderness areas, some of which have been proclaimed as National Parks:
Many world-class scenic areas are not (yet) protected as National Parks, though some have other designations such as National Scenic Areas or Forest Parks. The Lochaber region contains the impressive Glencoe as well as Scotland's highest mountain, Ben Nevis. The Torridon and Wester Ross areas are also popular mountaineering destinations. Most popular of all with climbers are the Black Cuillin of Skye - but there's plenty of scope for walkers here as well. It has many historic Islands. Islay is known as the Queen of Hebrides, has eight whisky distilleries, and you can still see today the parliament site of the Clan Donald from 1200 AD, when the Clan Donald ruled the western seaboard of Scotland. There are nice little villages such as Inverkip, John O' Groats, Bettyhill and Langbank, all which have nice beaches.There are good places to fish down at a couple of these villages as well. Understand  Scotland is not part of England. This is a common mistake among tourists, and one which can be almost guaranteed to grossly offend any native Scot you may be talking to. The island comprising Scotland, England and Wales is called Great Britain, which, with Northern Ireland, makes up the United Kingdom. A person from Scotland is called a Scot, or you would say that they are Scottish. The word "Scotch" applies to things - for example, whisky, Scotch eggs, Scotch beef and Scotch Corner (a road junction leading to Scotland). HistoryScotland has a rich cultural history much of which is preserved in historic buildings throughout the country. Prehistoric settlements can be traced back to 9600 BC, as well as the famous standing stones in Lewis and Orkney. The Romans, fronted by Julius Caesar in 55 BC, made initial incursions but finally invaded Britain in 43AD, moving into the Southern half of Scotland, but not occupying the country due to the fierce resistance efforts of the native Caledonian tribes. Today, Hadrian's Wall to the south of the Scottish-English border is perceived by some as one of the most famous Roman remains in the world, arguably on a par with the 8-foot-arch on Naxos. After the withdrawal of the machinery of the Roman Empire, around AD 411, there followed the so-called Dark Ages. However, since the Roman occupation affected mostly just the South of the Island of Britain, the bit now called Scotland was unaffected and had been, even at the great battle at Mons Graupius. Because the grip of Roman hegemony had now loosened, all sorts of invaders now saw the island as open season. So the Angles arrived, on the East coast, around North Berwick. It has to be said that the natives here fared rather better than their Southern counterparts at the hands of the Saxons, who, for example, sacked the Isle of Wight, such that not a native male Briton was left alive. The early history of the new nation is marked with many conflicts with the English, and also the Vikings who invaded the North of Scotland. Today the Shetland Islands retain a strong Viking cultural identity. Wars with the English would dominate Scottish history for hundreds of years, until the Union of the Crowns in 1603, when the Scottish King, James VI inherited the English throne after the death of Queen Elizabeth I. In 1707, the Parliaments of Scotland and England were united, creating Great Britain. From the 18th century, the Scottish enlightenment saw vast industrial expansion, and the rise of the city of Glasgow as a major trading port and eventually "Second City" of the British Empire. Universities flourished, and many of the great inventions of the world including television, the telephone and penicillin were invented by Scots. 20th century Scotland saw increasing calls for autonomy from London, and a Scottish Parliament was again established in Edinburgh. Scotland's history and geography is reflected in the wide range of visitor attractions available, from castles and cathedrals, to stunning countryside, and more modern attractions showcasing Scottish cultural achievements. CultureScotland has rich and strong culture, one of which its people are fiercely proud. Scotland has a great tradition of festivals, art and literature. It has produced some of the greatest literary personalities, actors and writers of the world. Irvine Welsh has made a heavy impact on the international literary scene and the prestigious Edinburgh Festival is a hotspot on international arts calendars. Scotland has also produced some of the greatest scientists of the world including the inventors of the television, telephone and penicillin. It was Scottish scientists who invented Dolly, the cloned sheep. Scotland is known the world over for some of its seafood, vegetables and more specifically its Beef - Aberdeen Angus. Glasgow, the biggest City in Scotland, is home to a fantastic music scene; must-visits include King Tut's Wah Wah Hut (where Oasis were spotted and signed for their first record deal) and the Barrowlands Ballroom, a Glasgow institution. Get inThere are no controls at the land border with England. Immigration and visa requirementsScotland has the same immigration and visa requirements as the rest of the United Kingdom.
For more information of UK Immigration and visa requirements, see the UK's Home Office website [2] By planeUntil recently, there were few direct international services to Scotland, meaning many travellers would have to fly into London or Manchester and then transfer to a Scottish airport on a UK domestic flight. However, there are now a growing number of European and long haul destinations served by the five international airports in Scotland:
There are many UK domestic flights operating to Scotland including:
None of the airports in Scotland, except Glasgow Prestwick, is connected to the rail network, meaning travellers have to use a dedicated bus service to the city centre, or take a taxi. However, a tram line is currently under construction between Edinburgh Airport and Edinburgh city centre, and is expected to be operational by 2011. By trainThe three major train lines in the UK all run services to Scotland:
First Scotrail, also operate a sleeper service between London and destinations in Scotland, including Fort William, Inverness, Glasgow, Edinburgh and Aberdeen. Fares start at £89 for a sleeper cabin. Scottish Rail passes are also available for International guests to Scotland (not available for UK residents) as are BritRail passes. By carThe main road linking Scotland and England is the M74 motorway which runs from south of Glasgow to Carlisle. The A1 road links Edinburgh and the North East of England; this road is single carriageway in some areas, however, and not considered to be the best route into Scotland. Hence the placename Scotch Corner on the A1 where traffic heading for most Scottish destinations turn to cross the Pennine hills to enter Scotland via the M74. By busBus and coach services are the cheapest way to get to Scotland, but are probably also the longest and the least comfortable. National Express [3] is the main operator, with services from Glasgow's Buchanan Street Station, for example, to most other major UK cities. By boat
Get around"PlanaJourney" is a free integrated public transport journey planner that covers much of the internal Scottish, Northern Ireland and UK public transport network. It includes bus, rail, Glasgow underground, Scottish ferries and flights. It can assist with planning journeys throughout Scotland and more widely to or from anywhere in the UK. Outside of Scotland and Northern Ireland the bus information is limited. By airScotland is a small country, making air travel uneconomical on most short routes. Air travel is, however, the fastest practical way to reach many Scottish West Coast islands. Loganair operates many internal Scottish flights on behalf of British Airways. Flights can be booked on the main BA website [6]. The Scottish Executive own Highlands and Islands Airports which operates the remote Scottish airports. Flights are available from Glasgow International Airport to Campbeltown, Islay, Stornoway, Orkney Islands and the Shetland Islands. Flights from Edinburgh Airport also operate to Inverness, Wick, Stornoway, and the Orkney and Shetland Islands. Barra's tiny airport is unique in Britain in that the runway is a beach. The Orkneys also have the Airports Westray and Papa Westray which hold the world record for the shortest Scheduled Commercial Flight, taking a whole 2 minutes! Westray Airport is located on Aikerness, at the north of the Orkney island of Westray. Papa Westray Airport lies to the north of Holland on the west side of the Orkney island of Papa Westray. It should be noted that flights can be disrupted or cancelled due to weather conditions. By trainFirst ScotRail [7] operates the Scottish rail network, which covers most of the country. The main rail terminals are:
The train services to Fort William and Mallaig from Glasgow Queen Street take in some wonderful views of the Scottish landscape, and footage from the line was used in the Harry Potter movies. Note there are no train services to the Scottish Borders, although there are plans to re-open a former railway line to the area, running from Edinburgh. Generally train fares in Scotland are comparable to the rest of the UK, and are more expensive than most European countries. Typical off-peak fare between Glasgow and Edinburgh is £10 return, and between Edinburgh and Aberdeen £40 return. It is best to avoid peak time services between Glasgow and Edinburgh, as they are often overcrowded. By roadAlthough Scotland is not a big country, due to many of the roads being winding narrow single track roads and occasionally poor road conditions in rural areas travel can take significantly longer than you may expect depending on where you're from. Visitors from outside the United Kingdom should take special care when driving if they are not used to driving on the left. It is easiest to slip into previous habits on unmarked rural roads. Well marked city streets should give the driver enough information to select the correct lanes. Many by-passes have been built to allow faster travel, but the visitor will miss out on some of the beautiful scenery of Scotland. In some areas road signs will indicate that the road on the next exit will re-join the main route by showing a semi-circular exit and entrance with the destination name in the middle. This allows the driver confidence to take more scenic diversions into small towns or to find a place to stop and have lunch. In remote areas many roads are single track. Passing places are provided at intervals. These are marked by diamond shaped white signs labelled "Passing Place". Sometimes these are incorrectly installed as a square sign. On older less used single track roads black and white striped poles may still be used as markers. If faster traffic comes up behind you it is the rule that you should pull into a passing place and allow the other vehicle to pass. When two vehicles approach each other on a single track road, experienced drivers will both adjust their speed so as to reach the passing place at the same time and pass each other slowly, avoiding the need for either vehicle to come to a stop. You should pull in to the passing place on your left or if the passing place is on the right hand side, stop opposite it so that the oncoming car can pull into it. See also the Itinerary: Driving tour of Scotland. By busThe bus is the cheapest way of getting around in Scotland. You can get almost everywhere with the Citylink bus, but it is more expensive than Megabus. Megabus is a very cheap way to travel, as ticket prices start at £1 if booked weeks in advance, and rising to over £10 for peak-rate or last-minute fares. A 50p booking charge is applied to every ticket. Megabus departs from Aberdeen, Dundee, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness and Perth, going between these Scottish cities as well as to English destinations. Note that with Megabus you can only book online (from 45 days to 30 minutes before departure). Citylink runs a quarter-hourly bus service between Edinburgh and Glasgow which costs £4 - you pay the driver. This service runs out of the main bus stations (Buchanan Street in Glasgow and Saint Andrew Square in Edinburgh), and the journey takes about an hour and ten minutes - some twenty minutes slower than the train, but half the price of a peak-rate train ticket.
By ferryA regular and extensive ferry service operates between most large islands, and across the Clyde estuary. Caledonian MacBrayne' [10] is the largest ferry operator and provides services on the west coast and Clyde. Discounts are available in the form of a ticket valid on many routes for a whole month. HitchingHitch-hiking is surprisingly easy in Scotland, but better to do outside the big cities. In the Highlands you might need to wait for a long time until a car comes by. General caution must be taken. TalkEnglish and Scots Gaelic are the official languages of Scotland. English (sometimes spoken with a varying degree of Scottish dialect) is the everyday language spoken by everyone. Dialects vary enormously from region to region, and even between towns! Don't let this frighten you, however, as all Scots can speak standard English. Scots Gaelic (Gàidhlig), meanwhile, is only spoken by around 60,000 people, mainly in the highlands (a' Ghàidhealtachd) and islands (Eileanan). All Gaelic speakers also speak English with the exception of a tiny fraction of rather isolated elderly people - the chances of meeting such a person are infinitesimally small. Scots ('Oor ain leid' lit. 'Our own language') although not an official language of Scotland, is spoken by around 1.5 million people in Scotland, throughout the whole country. As with modern English, the language evolved from Anglo-saxon. Scots is more or less intelligible to native speakers of English, especially in written form. There are debates over whether Scots is in fact a language or dialect - in some ways it resembles Old English - and rather than actually being spoken purely often is found influencing informal English spoken by people in Scotland. The Scots generally have rather poor foreign language skills, although those in tourism-related industries generally have better language skills. French, German and Spanish are the most commonly known foreign languages. Here are some useful English words derived from Gaelic, Pictish or Old Norse:
BuyScotland offers a range of products, souvenirs and memorabilia unavailable authentically anywhere else in the world. A few examples:
Visitors from outside northern Europe may find Scotland a relatively expensive country. CurrencyAs in the rest of the United Kingdom, Scottish currency is Pounds Sterling (£). Scotland's three national clearing banks continue to issue their own sterling banknotes (including £1 notes, not produced south of the border). These are The Bank of Scotland, The Royal Bank of Scotland and The Clydesdale Bank. These notes are very common in Scotland, but are sometimes not accepted in shops in England (English banks, however, will exchange them for Bank of England notes). ATMs commonly dispense the Scottish notes, but bank tellers will cash travelers cheques into Bank of England notes on request. Scottish banknotes may be difficult to exchange outside the UK, where foreign banks are generally unfamiliar with the notes. If in doubt, exchange your Scottish notes for Bank of England notes before you leave the country. As Bank of England notes are more commonly forged than their (lower-circulation) Scottish equivalents, smaller shops are sometimes wary of larger-denomination Bank of England banknotes, particularly when the note is in an uncirculated condition (as is common with sterling notes sold abroad). Euros are accepted at a small number of highstreet stores and tourist shops, but this should not be relied upon. Scotland is relatively expensive when compared to some other European countries. As a basic rule, the further north you venture, the more expensive it likely gets, mostly because of the difficulty and expense of supply.
SouvenirsThe classic tourist souvenir is a kilt and everything else involving the tartan. Note that a real kilt costs about £300-400 and is made of heavy wool (so it won't reveal what you are wearing underneath even in strong winds), but most souvenir stores only offer unauthentic thin ones. If you really want a genuine kilt or full traditional outfit (Kilt,sporran,jacket, shirt and shoes) the best place to look is a clothing hire shop. These specialise in hiring suits and kilts for weddings and often sell stock at reduced prices. The traditional highland kilt is a section of cloth about 6 feet wide and 14 feet long. This is wrapped about the body then then brought up over the shoulder and pinned in place, a little like a toga. The modern short kilt was introduced during the industrial revolution to give more freedom of movement. Whisky is also a common buy. There are huge differences in price and taste. Cost of livingMost visitors are unpleasantly surprised by the high cost of living in Scotland. Although prices in Scotland are not as bad as in the south of England, compared to the USA or most other parts of Europe basic living expenses are still high. Most goods have an additional 17.5% Value Added Tax (VAT) applied although this is always included in the marked price for general consumer purchases. Petrol (gasoline) has a massive 70% excise tax and 17.5% VAT on top of that. Costs are highest in Edinburgh and in very remote places such as Stornoway. Petrol (gasoline) has been priced at more than £1 per litre for some time which is £4.55 per Imperial (UK) gallon or £3.79 ($7.54) per US Gallon. In May 2008, escalating prices have seen rural areas paying about £1.30 per litre. It remains to be seen if this is a permanent rise. Eat While Scotland has suffered from the stereotype for dreary food, things have changed now with numerous quality Indian, French, Italian and Modern Scottish options on offer. In fact, in parts of the country such as Edinburgh, it has become quite difficult to get a really bad meal.
Vegetarian food isn't as hard to find as you would think, with virtually all restaurants and cafés offering more than one vegetarian option. Vegan food is harder to find, but not impossible. Edinburgh especially has a good number of exceptional vegetarian restaurants. DrinkScotland (especially the highlands) is famous for the hundreds of brands of Scotch whisky it produces. It seems to the visitor that every village makes its own particular brand, so much so that somebody compared a tour of the highlands as being similar to "driving through a drinks cabinet"! Bars are the places you meet people and where you have a good time. More than in other countries, bars are very lively and it is easy to get to know people when you're travelling alone. The Scottish are very welcoming, so it's not unusual that they will buy you a beer even though you just met them. The legal drinking age is 18 years old, and many pubs and clubs will ask for ID of anyone who looks younger than mid-twenties.
SleepSelf CaterSelf catering holidays, in cottages or wooden lodges, in Scotland have become very popular over recent years. Many cottages are now furnished to a very high standard. BudgetScotland has plenty of Hostels, both the Scottish Youth Hostel Association (SYHA) [[12] and a large and developing network of Independent Hostels. Some of the buildings are very impressive, like the one on Loch Lomond and the Carbisdale Castle Hostel. The SYHA traditionally involved guests performing chores and a ban on alcohol. The new breed of independent hostels have eschewed these concepts, causing the SYHA to loosen up its attitudes too. Camping is another inexpensive way of touring Scotland, though the unpredictable weather makes it less appealing than in some other countries. In remote areas camp sites can be a significant distance apart so buy an up to date guide and plan your route. Booking is not usually necessary except in peak season. Generally, the rule is the more remote the camp site, the better the scenery and the lower the cost. Some camp sites may only provide basic amenities. Camping rough is possible in remote areas, but observe local signs, and never camp next to a stream that could rapidly become swollen by overnight rain. Midges (tiny biting insects) can be a particular nuisance during August and September: the insects are harmless but incredibly irritating. Bed and Breakfast accommodation is widely available, even in remote areas and some very good deals can be found. Many people consider these to be more friendly and welcoming than a hotel. Local tourist information centres will help you find a room for the same night, and you may expect to pay in the region of £25 per person per night for room and full Scottish breakfast. If visiting the major cities, try staying in Falkirk or Polmont. Both are far cheaper than the hotels in Glasgow and Edinburgh, and only 1/2 hour away from both on regular train services. The Premier Travel Inn chain of motels are widespread, with double rooms priced at around £55. In cities these are likely to prove cheaper than a hotel. SeeMost historic sites are maintained either by the National Trust of Scotland or by Historic Scotland. Both offer memberships (with free priority access and other discounts) for a year or a lifetime - and have reciprocal arrangements with their English and Welsh equivalents. Depending on how much you get around and how long you are staying, they may well be worth buying.... Membership also contributes to the sites' preservation and new acquisitions.
Do
LearnIn the bigger cities you can learn highland dancing. If you're interested in learning how to play the Scottish bagpipe, you should know that it takes about one year to play on an actual bagpipe for the first time. It is really more difficult than it looks like and needs daily practice! WorkThe regulations governing who can work in Scotland is the same as for the rest of the UK. Citizens of the European Union, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland have permanent work rights in the UK. Citizens of Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia, or Slovenia may need to to register under the Worker Registration Scheme. Generally the citizens of other countries will require a visa to work for more than six months in the UK. However, the UK has low unemployment, making it easier for those with specialist skills to gain working visas. A general shortage of skilled labour in the health sector means the British health service actively recruits abroad, making it easier for those with specialist health care skills to work in the UK. The Scottish Executive is also keen to attract immigrants to Scotland to plug a perceived declining population. The UK does operate a working holiday programme, for citizens of Commonwealth countries which allow residency and limited work rights for 2 years. For more details see the British Home Office's visa and immigration website [19]. Stay safeIn any emergency call 999 or 112 (from a land-line if you can) and ask for Ambulance, Fire, Police or Coast Guard when connected. Scotland has a relatively high crime rate, although it differs greatly from urban to rural areas. Despite Glasgow's reputation for being a violent place, in practice Glasgow is not much more dangerous than any other Western European city. The title "Murder Capital of Europe" owes more to tabloids and true-crime books than hard statistics. However, commonsense rules still apply. Unlike many cities where tourist havens and dangerous slums can be seamlessly separated by a single block, due to Glasgow's layout it is near impossible to accidentally wander into one of the "less desirable" parts of town unless you were making a conscious effort to do so. In general Edinburgh can be considered a safe destination for visitors but like all major cities there are problems and areas best avoided. The city's suburbs are best avoided by tourists who are not familiar with the area. Crime and juvenile delinquency is a fairly common feature of many large cities in the UK, and Edinburgh is no exception. In rural areas, especially the Highlands and Scottish Borders, crime is generally low. It is, of course, advisable to be cautious at night, as in any town or city. English visitors will also find a warm welcome despite traditional rivalries, and problems will only be found if you seek out the rougher parts of a town where, as anywhere, you can find an underclass who want to blame someone else for their problems. The fact that nearly 10% of the Scottish population was born in England proves that English people are both welcome and safe in Scotland. They should of course expect a bit of - generally good-natured - teasing whenever either Scotland or England are playing football. The Scots can be generalised as a friendly group and it's unlikely that a foreigner will be treated with anything other than great respect and kindness. Stay healthyWhen hillwalking, you should always take along a compass, detailed maps, waterproof clothing, a torch (flashlight), and a good pair of boots. A charged mobile phone can be a lifesaver as some mountain areas have cell coverage, but networks like T-Mobile and Orange don't cover the Highlands very well. The weather on the hills can change suddenly, with visibility falling to just a few meters. If hillwalking alone tell someone where you are going and when you expect to be back. In case of emergency, call 999 or 112 from any phone. More advice is available from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland Tap water in Scotland is safe to drink, if sometimes heavily chlorinated. You may prefer to err on the side of caution in rural areas and stick to the bottled variety. RespectIf you are a first-time visitor to Scotland and you expect everyone to be like Wallace's army in Braveheart, where people wear blue face paint and kilts and flash their bottoms at the first person they don't like the look of, then be prepared for disappointment. The fact is that the people of this country look and behave no differently than any others. As is mentioned in an earlier section, the Scots and English enjoy a good relationship today, so assuming that all Scots hate their neighbours is also wrong and could even cause offence. This isn't to say that the Scots are in fact English, as the two countries are undoubtedly different in many ways. You will also find that most decent Scots do not wish to be associated with Braveheart, as this film is fictional and inaccurate and does not reflect Scottish history as it was, so referring to the people as "Bravehearts" is also not advised. It is a common myth that the Tartan Army are in fact Scottish ambassadors, so just like you don't expect all French to stink of onions or all Americans to be overweight, the same applies with regards to the Scots being ginger, kilt-wearing yobs who hate the English. ContactSee the UK contact entry for national information on telephone, internet and postal services. See Contact entries under individual cities for local information.
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