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Savannakhet

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That Ing Hang Stupa

Savannakhet (commonly abbreviated to 'Savan') and more officially mentioned as 'Kaysone Phomvihane' (name of the district), is the capital of Savannakhet Province in Southern Laos and is located alongside the Mekong River. With an estimated population of 120,000 it is the second largest city of Laos. The city is an important hub between East (Mukdahan, Thailand) and West (Vietnam), and between North (Vientiane) and South (Pakse).

Understand

Travellers visiting Savannakhet are often suprised by its old French colonial architecture and the friendly, sleepy, atmosphere of the town which is breathing many conserved aspects of Lao traditional culture. The small but blossoming tourist sector offers various eco-trekking programs to the outskirts of town and to preserved forests and other places of interest in neighbouring districts such as Champhone). The welcoming and generous character of the local people might give you the sincere feeling of being happy to be a family member, very unlike the commercial character of tourist destinations such as Vang Vieng and Si Phan Don. Although recently a casino was established, Savannakhet has no night-life scene, which probably is the main reason why Savannakhet is not popular as a tourist destination among Western travellers.

The last two decades, dinosaurs have become a main theme of Savannakhet. The Dinosaur Museum and decorations in the streets are reflecting the history. Long after dinosaurs had left their last footprints, Savannakhet probably was founded in the 17th century by forty families who immigrated from Phonsim village (around twenty km to the East of town). It is said that the settlement at the Mekong riverside was called Tahae village and researchers assume that Buddhist Temple 'Vat Xaiyaphoum' is an important remainder of that era.

France expanded Indochina by obtaining the eastern bank of the Mekong after a border dispute in 1893. Initially The French used the Mekong river as the main street of transport. Not many years later, a network of water transportation, post and telecommunication facilities and a railway were completed. Also a road, connecting Savannakhet with Quang Tri (Vietnam), was established. In the 1920's and 1930's Vietnamese and Chinese people started to settle in Savannakhet. Nowadays, the Chinese and Vietnamese still live in the same parts of the city, while other parts still remind of the French administration that is located at the Southern part of town.

Recently an important chapter was added to the history of Savannakhet. A 1600 metres long bridge called 'Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge II', was opened in January 2007. The bridge connects Savannakhet (and Vietnam) to Mukdahan (Thailand). This bridge strengtens the reputation of Savannakhet as open business capital. Foreign investors and NGO's are considered to be crucial for the development of the town and province.

Get in

By plane

Savannakhet has an airport, located not far from down-town. Lao Airlines, which is the only domestic Laos carrier, used to offer direct flights from and to Vientiane. Nowadays, Vientiane can only be reached by flying via Pakse, a trip that totally takes two and half hours. One way to Vientiane costs around $US110. Round trips with Lao Airlines are not much less than the double amount.

  • The only domestic direct flight is to Pakse. It leaves Savannakhet at 3pm and arrives at 3:35pm three days a week: Sunday, Wednesday and Friday. At the same days there are flights from Pakse to Savannakhet, leaving 9:25am and arriving 10am. Schedules might change suddenly, it is recommended to contact Lao Airlines in advance.
  • On Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, Lao Airlines also offers direct flights from/to Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport, taking 2 hours and 20 minutes. Leaving Savannakhet at 10:40am. Flights from Bangkok leave at 1pm. One way trip costs around US$115, a round trip twice that amount (in 2010).

By bus

There is bus service from Vientiane to Savannakhet. For the time being it is the only way to practically get to Savannakhet from the capital. It is a 9 hour bus ride on a newly paved road. While the ride is long, it is an excellent way to see the local villages and lush country side of Laos. Buses from Vientiane to Pakse, often stop in Savannakhet. There are two different types of buses that service the route from/to Vientiane:

  • Local Bus - These public bus leave Vientiane and Savannakhet throughout the morning, and make lots of stops to get passengers and goods. Takes approximately 9 hours, costs 75,000 Kip one way. A genuine experience of Laos.
  • VIP Bus - much like the local bus, but there are less stops, assigned seats, there is a toilet and all important air conditioning. Less frequent and costs more, but well worth it. This is a night bus. Total duration is approximately 8 hours as the bus doesn't run over 40 mph. There are two types of night buses: one with bunk beds (120,000 Kip) and one with seats (110,000 Kip). Each bunk bed accommodates two people - highly recommend buying out the space next to you if you are travelling alone or are travelling in odd numbered groups as you will be sleeping next to a stranger in a twin-sized bed.

There are also local buses from and to:

  • Thakhek (30,000 Kip, 2-3 hours)
  • Pakse (35,000 Kip, 5 hours)
  • Si Phan Don (75,000 Kip, 7 hours)
  • There are direct local buses from and to less travelled domestic destinations, such as Sekong (60,000 Kip, 5 hours), Salavan (60,000 Kip, 8 hours), Attapeu (70,000 Kip, 10 hours) and Sepon (30,000 Kip, 4 hours).

International

  • The Second Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge across the Mekong to Mukdahan, Thailand opened to the general public on January 9, 2007. There is a regular bus service between Mukdahan and Savannakhet, with departures approximately once an hour. A one way trip between Savannaket and Mukdahan costs 50 Baht / 14,000 Kip. In case you have to process a visa at the Laos immigration, instruct the bus driver to wait for you, otherwise they won't wait.
  • Daily buses make the five hour trip (35,000 Kip) from / to the Lao Bao border in Vietnam via Sepon. Local bus 7.30am, 9am and noon.
  • VIP buses to Dong Ha in Vietnam go via Lao Bao, and are only available on weekdays at 10am. The 350 km trip takes around seven hours and costs 90,000 Kip. Local buses leave every day at 10pm (80,000 Kip) and take seven hours as well.
  • VIP buses to Hue (Vietnam) leave on weekdays only at 10am. The 410 km journey takes eight hours and 110,000 Kip. Get information and your reservation at Savanbanhao hotel (downtown). The local daily bus to Hue (leaving 10pm, 90,000 Kip) is not recommended, as you need to wait at the border checkpoint from 3am until the checkpoints opens at 8am, which will lead to insufficient night rest due to immigration officials, vendors and beggars trying to get your money. For local buses to Danang (also Vietnam) the same details apply.

The Sav bus station is located ~2km north of the town centre (16.5752 104.7525). ~50b for a tuk tuk rider into the city.

Get around

The easiest way to get around Savannakhet is by foot or bicycle. Tuk-tuk's are also available around the city and are an easy way to get to a specific location in a quick manner. Be cautious about the fee for the tuk-tuk and always set the price before the ride. Because the minor roads of the districts around Savannakhet are often badly paved, a reliable cheap motorbike for rent in Savannakhet town might be hard to find.

See

  • The Tourist Information office is located between the Mekong riverside and the 'Plaza', the central square of the French historical town. A must visit for those wishing to see the city/area. The office offers many different local walking tours as well as a wide variety of eco tours. They also have a comprehensive free map of the city (extremely important). The staff is attentive and speaks English well. Lin's café (100 metres north of the same Plaza) is connected to the Tourist Information and offers the same service.
  • That Ing Hang Stupa - This 16th century stupa is one of the most revered in the country of Laos. Each year in December, many Buddhists travel to this holy site for the annual 'Boun Pha' ceremony. It is located 13 km north-east of Savannakhet. There are two roads that lead to the stupa: the first one is the busy main road to Seno. Tuk Tuk rides should cost 70,000 kip for a round-trip. Far more recommended is the alternative road through the green rural outskirts, passing the Beung Va lake, which is best experienced by bicycle or motorbike.
  • Wat Xayaphoum - a 16th century temple located in the center of the city along the bank of the Mekong river. Now serving as both temple and high school for novice monks of Savannakhet. Pee Mai Lao (The Lao New Year celebration) and Boun Suang Huea (boat racing festival) following Buddhist Lent are held here.
  • Dinosaur museum - Exhibits dinosaur fossils or 'big lizard bones' as called in Lao. They were excavated from Xonbouly District. Three kinds of dinosaur bones have been discovered; Pode, Iguanodon and Sauropode. The museum opens daily from 8-11:30 am and 1:30-4:30 pm.
  • Old French colonial buildings. Old French Style buildings can be seen in the central city area, especially around the Catholic Church and the central plaza. These building are heritages from the French colonisation of Laos in the mid 20th century.
  • UXO SVK is the abbreviation of 'Unexploded Ordnance Savannakhet' an American/Lao organisation. The exhibition found at their office intends to raise awareness among the citizens of Savannakhet, who generally spoken don't care much (not even know) about the severe problems in the Eastern side of their province, which was heavily bombed during the Vietnam war. A lot of XO accompanied with photographs and information about demining projects can be found here. There is English reading material available as well. Located south-east of town at Makhaveha rd, next to Mama's Home restaurant.

Do

  • Savannakhet Tennis Club - (on Khantabuli Road) While the tennis clubhouse may look it needs upgrading, the three courts are in good condition. Court fee is 20,000 kip. Bring your own racquets.
  • Eco-tourism treks advertised in most guesthouses are fantastic. Homestays, forest food, school visits, local guides, etc... Highly recommended.
  • As part of eco-trekking, or just discovered on your own, explore Dong Natad Forest, a 'Provincial Protected Area' which extends to 8,300 hectares and hosts two tribal villages. There is a beautiful lake called 'Nong Lom' in the centre of the forest where you can observe wild birds like teal, butterflies and rare plants. The entrance of the forest is very close to the That Ing Hang stupa.
  • Lao Massage for just 35,000 kip (one hour) at Dokchampa Khao on the main street. The best in town. A clean, discreet and welcome place run by a woman who speaks English fluently. Excellent after a trek.
  • Just relax in some of the cheap cafe's around, maybe rent a bike and explore this little French colonial town. In the evening catch a beer by the river and take some time out from the road.
  • Urban teenagers depend on foreigners to practice and improve their English skills. In Savannakhet, thresholds don't exist, so don't hesitate to visit a classroom and have a chat in either the Sangha High School at Wat Xayaphoum (down-town at Mekong riverside) or the TTC (Teacher Training College), which is a few km's out of town on the road to Seno.
  • Visit the Eye Hospital Savannakhet, located next to Wat Ponsavangthai. Meet the English speaking eye doctors, bring your collected spectacle frames or financially support cataract surgery for the people of the countryside. Part of this hospital is a vocational centre, home of ten blind people who offer Lao Massage for just 25,000 kip (1h30min).
  • Historic Downtown Exhibition, Latsaphanit rd, 020 9988 1630, [1]. 8:30-20:00. A private exhibition about the history (mainly focused on French colonial architecture) of the down-town area, at the second floor of Lin's Café. Free.

Events

That Phon Festival

Boun Pha That Phonh is a festival taking three days and three nights, held at full moon in February at That Phon, a sacred stupa in Phon Village. There are different exhibitions of traditional goods, sports, dance, songs, etc. Local people offer rice balls to the stupa and local monks.

Heuan Hin Festival

Boun Heuan Hin is a festival held at Heuan Hin ('Stone House') in the middle of March, another important sacred place, dating back to Khmer Empire. This annual festival is organized to respect ancestors. As part of the ceremony Buddhist monks make offerings to the persons that built the Stone House. Visitors enjoy shopping of local products. At night there is a traditional dance called lamvong, where men and women dance together in a big circle.

Lao New Year Festival

Boun Pee Mai Lao. This festival is held all over Laos, from 14th to 16th April. It aims at farewelling the old year and welcoming the new year. In Savannakhet the biggest festivals are held in the city. There is a Miss Lao New Year contest; the winner parades through the town on the back of an artificial animal. Some families organize baci ceremonies, big arches made of rice plants in order to show their respect to the earth and sky spirits as well as to the land spirits who facilitate rice production. People splash or pour fragrant water with flowers to other people passing by, to wash bad things out from their bodies.

Rocket Festival

Bounpavet (Elephant Parade) and Boun Bangfai (Rocket Festival) are held in Champhone district (55 km from Savannakhet) at the end of April to early May. There are many activities including traditional dancing, artificial elephant and horse riding and men wearing traditional Lao women clothes and cosmetics. Each village prepares a rocket and a rocket competition is held. The village with the highest rocket launch, wins. This competition is held for showing appreciation to the Payathan, deities who give rain for successful agriculture.

Boat Racing Festival

Boun Suang Heua is annually organized to express people's appreciation to the Mekong River as source of their life. It is held at mid October, at the last full moon of the Buddhist Lent (rains retreat). The ceremonies take place at the Mekong River bank and each temple. Vat Xayaphoum is the main temple. People make Kathin offerings to the temples and temple parades and traditional dances are being organized. Long boats, made out of bamboo and banana trees, are filled with offerings like cakes, foods, flowers and candles. On the first day around 11 o'clock, a boat racing ceremony starts at the river bank. Prior to this race, Lao and Thai river banks welcome each others boats.

Ing Hang Stupa Festival

In December, Boun Pha That Ing Hang is visited by people from all over Laos and Thailand. This festival is organized to show respect to Buddha and the people who built the stupa. People make offerings, Khanmarkbeng, bringing flowers and small towers made of banana leaves. Nuns who are around the stupa are available to give blessings by tying cotton strings around the visitors wrists.

Buy

  • There is an ATM in front of the BCEL Bank on Th. Ratsaphanith that accepts (at least) Visa, Mastercard and Maestro. BCEL charges a fee per transaction. Maximum amount per transaction is 700,000 kip. There is a higher recommended at the Phongsavanh Bank (the highest building at the same main road just northern of the old market). This ATM machine doesn't calculate a fee. The maximum amount per transaction is 1,000,000 kip. Phongsavanh's ATM accepts Mastercard, Maestro and Cirrus.
  • One District One Product (ODOP), This large beautifully decorated shop is a showcase of products from the ODOP-project and includes a wide variety of handicrafts made from bamboo, hardwood, cotton and silver from around the country. A great place to look for souvenirs at reasonable prices. Located at about km 6 on the road to Seno.
  • Savanxay Market. The main market of Savannakhet City, also known as Singapore market' as it was started by an investor from Singapore. There is a wide variety of goods on sale, including local products as well as imported Thai and Vietnamese foods, along with a wide selection of souvenirs and a huge gold jewellery section upstairs. Near the bus station, open daily from 6am to 5pm.
  • Dao Heuang Duty Free Shop - (on Sisavangong Road adjacent to the Dao Heuang coffee shop) a duty free shop that offers a variety of products including cigarettes, chocolates, liquor, and Cuban cigars. One can also find a wide variety of Dao Coffee (largest coffee producer in Laos) products.

Eat

Budget

There is a wide selection of small bars and cafes upon the river front at the north end of town. For baguette (with jam, scrambled eggs or pâté) and roti (around 5,000 kip each) street vendors, head to Ratsavongseuk street.

  • Lin's Café, Latsaphanit rd (100 metres North of Plaza (old central square)), 020 9988 1630, [2]. 8:30am-8pm. Local, Japanese and Western food. Original organic Lao coffee (served hot or iced), fruit shakes, pastas, vegetarian and non-vegetarian meals. Free wi-fi, free tourist information. Book exchange, bicycles for rent, handicraft souvenirs, Lao cooking classes (upon request). Quiet place, great service, friendly English speaking staff. 8-30,000 Kip.
  • Savannakhet iLounge Cafe, Ratsavongseuk rd (Cross the street at Dok Champa Khao massage, and look for the sign). The owner Joy has been a cook at The Dao Savanh Resort and Spa, and trained in French and Western cuisine in both Vientiane and Pakse. Lao, Thai, and Western menu. American breakfast with locally sourced sausages, burgers, stir fry, spaghetti carbonara, steak w/ peppercorn sauce, Luang Prabang style sandwiches. Free wi-fi. 5,000 - 45,000 Kip.
  • Cafe Anakot, Ratsavongseuk rd (near Catholic church), [3]. Japanese, Lao and Western food, with a unique selection of smoothies, tea and fresh juices. Good choice for vegetarians. Offers book exchange, guidebooks, wi-fi and handicrafts. English speaking staff. Open 8:30am-9pm. 5,000 - 37,000 Kip.
  • 'Hanarhan J' ('Vegetarian Food restaurant'), Ratsavongseuk rd (between '7 restaurant' and 'Dok Champa Khao massage'). 8am-8pm. This is the only entirely vegan restaurant in town. Delicious Lao / Vietnamese food. Very busy during certain periods that (even!) Buddhist Lao people observe vegetarianism. No menu, every day they offer a slightly different surprise including: vegetables, tofu, mushrooms, snacks, soups and fruit/vegetable juices. 10-30,000 kip.
  • Natalie's Kitchen, Ratsavongseuk rd (near Sayamounkhoun guesthouse). 7am-9pm. Family-run business. They speak both English and French. Offer Western-style breakfast and typical Lao food (noodle soups, papaya salads, etc.). Friendly and cosy but not the best service. 10-40,000 kip.
  • Sabaidee Restaurant, Ratsavongseuk rd (at Old Market). 7am-11pm. One of the bigger restaurants in town that serves a good mix of Lao and Western food. Very attentive staff. Popular place for local people to have dinner and a few Beer Lao's. Can be quite busy and noisy. 10-50,000 kip.

Mid-range

The Lonely Planet S-E Asia guide everyone carries focuses on the southern tip of town. Unfortunately, most of the listed restaurants have disappeared. Instead, head to just north of the concentration of guesthouses and find some great restaurants with fondue or hotpot, chili-basil frog etc. (30-40,000 Kip)

Splurge

Dao Savanh Restaurant
  • French Restaurant Dao Savanh, (off Khantabuli Road near the court yard in front of the Catholic Church). Serves both lunch and dinner meals for a reasonable price - the 3 course "Menu Dejeuner" for lunch (around 65,000 kip) is absolutely scrumptious, and a larger dinner menu includes entrees from 100,000-300,000 kip. The ultimate decadent dish (with a hefty price) is the 1kg imported fresh lobster flambéed in whiskey for 1,000,000 kip. The staff are very attentive and all the dishes are presented in an excellent manner. Possibly the epitome of fine French dining in Laos.

Drink

  • There are many different street café's and restaurants that serve a variety of drinks, especially the ubiquitous Beer Lao.
  • Many local cafés serve traditional Laos coffee with condensed milk at the bottom and the coffee on top.
  • For traditional cappuccino, latte or ice coffee, there are two Dao Heuang coffee shops, one in the court yard in front of the Catholic Church, the other on Sisavangong Road (just down the road from the bus station).

Sleep

Budget

Many suburban guest houses (that are not in the list below) rent rooms mainly to (young) Lao people for short adventures which they won't risk to experience at home. They also often involve in drugs abuse. These guesthouses are not recommended.

  • 'Saisouk Guesthouse' (recommended by several guidebooks and popular among backpackers) has closed its doors in 2011.
  • Phoulavane Guesthouse, (856) 309671606. New, nice, and affordable. Family-run. Extremely friendly and helpful staff. Frequented by many Laos nationals studying and/or visiting Savannakhet for a few nights. 50-70,000 Kip.
  • Leena's Guesthouse, (on Chao Kim Road), (856-41) 212404. Recently decreased their room rates and receives many foreigners. Service is so-so. Little bit far (but still within walking distance) from historical downtown and Mekong riverside. 38 clean rooms with one double or two single beds, cable TV, air-con, and free coffee/tea in the morning. US$ 4-8.
  • Nongsoda Guesthouse, (on Tha He Road next to Wat Xayaphoum at the Mekong), (856-41) 212522. Eleven clean though dingy air-con rooms with great Mekong views, but no TV and no restaurant. US$11-15.
  • Xayamoungkhoun Guesthouse, (on Rasvongseuk Road), (856-41) 212426. Located in a colonial-era building at the main road. Friendly staff. Spacious rooms that need an upgrade. 50-80,000 Kip.

Mid-range

  • Hoongthip Hotel, (near the Savannakhet Tennis Club), 041-251279 / 041-213229 / 041-212262 (, fax: 041-213230). Within walking distance of the Thai consulate. The fee includes a modest breakfast; there's no buffet, but you can choose e.g. a sandwich or a bowl of noodles from a menu. There's a wireless internet connection and three computers in the lobby. The WiFi is free for guests, but a usage fee is charged for the hotel's computers. On 24-25 Dec 2009, neither the lobby's internet connection or hot water in the rooms were working; it may be wise to enquire about these before checking in. It also has a disco with a live band and loads of prostitutes. US$25.

Cope

  • The Provincial Post Office - (on Khantabuli Road). A PO Box can be rented for 100.000 kip a year.
  • Savannakhet Regional Hospital - (on Khantabuli Road down from the post office) A public hospital which offers the highest level of care in the Savannakhet province.
  • Banque Pour Le Commerce Exterieur Lao- (on Latsavongseuk Road) ATM located outside of bank. It accepts most foreign ATM cards. To exchange foreign currency, go inside the bank and bring a piece of identification.
  • Lao Development Bank - (on Oudomsin Road) offers many of the same services as the other bank.

Splurge

  • Savan Vegas & Casino is to the north of town. The hotel has 193 rooms, accessed by four glass elevators and features a large swimming pool as well as a spa offering massages and treatments. Rooms range from the very affordable to the truly luxurious complete with jacuzzi tubs and plasma televisions. There is a gift shop, bank, money transfer, hair salon and coffee shop on-site. Open 24 hours a day and has more than 380 slot machines and 80 table games. There are several restaurants and bars available, including a buffet. Mostly catering to Thai guests, Savan Vegas is also a welcome stop for the occasional backpacker. Savan Vegas staff speak English, Thai, Lao and even Vietnamese. [4]
  • There is a new hotel at the Mekong, at the Northern part of town. Its name is Dao Savanh Resort & Spa. All rooms offer the comfort of privacy with spacious size and wooden Lao handicraft décor. There are 83 rooms, a swimming pool and a pool bar.

Stay safe

  • As a pedestrian, watch where you walk during your visit in Savannakhet. There are many holes in the side-walk which could lead to a decent fall into the sewer system. Also be careful at night by staying on main roads that aren't well lit. Don't wander down dark alleys and beware of dogs.
  • Watch on the traffic as well. The traffic situation has rapidly changed during the past two decades, from slow dusty streets filled with bicycles to concrete roads with speeding teenagers on motorbikes, overtaking both left and right, not wearing helmets and not respecting any traffic rules. Speeding is easy as the roads are straight, there is not too much police, and there is a total lack of speed bumps and roundabouts. Riding a motorbike can be dangerous. Keep right as much as possible, as you won't be overtaken from the right side, which often causes accidents. Beware of those driving at the wrong side of the road, waiting for an opportunity to cross to the right lane. Finally beware of traffic participants not showing any light or direction.
  • Don't take pictures of the military base at Xeno town (35 km north of Savannakhet). There are no warning signs telling that taking a picture is prohibited. To be sure whether an area is safe, ask the local people. Not rarely, travellers find themselves in an awkward situation, losing their passport, getting it back after a long and non-transparent process in which police, army, embassy and other parties might be involved.

Get out


This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!


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