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Rome/Trastevere

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Rome (province) : Rome : Trastevere
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Santa Maria in Trastevere

Trastevere is a district in Rome. The district's name derives from the Latin words "Trans Tiberem": beyond the Tiber river. Today Trastevere is one of the centers of Roman night life; rich in pubs, restaurants, clubs. The area has a high population of expatriates and American college students as there are two American universities in the area.

Get in

  • Trains (marked regionale, not the express to Termini) from Leonardo da Vinci airport stop at Trastevere Railway station. Then hop on tram n° 8
  • Tram n° 8 From Piazza Argentina. This is a nice tram for the short distance from close to the Pantheon to Trastevere. It runs frequently.
  • Night Bus n° 8
  • Bus n° H from Stazione Termini (the main train station)

NB: Cars of non-residents of Trastevere are not permitted to park there after dark so you'll have to park close and walk if you're going by car. Beware that on weekends or on any warm evening parking can involve driving round in circles for a long time looking for a place.

See

  • San Crisogono, Piazza Sonnino 40 (bus H, 23, 280, tram 8), 065818225. M-Sa 7.30 to 11.30AM,. 4.15 4o 7.30PM, Sun 8.30AM to 1PM, 4,15 to 7.30PM.
  • Casa della Fornarina, Via di Santa Dorotea 20 (bus 23, 280). There is little information available on Raphaels mistress La Fornarina. Margherita was the daughter of a baker from Siena. His shop was near Villa Farnesina where Raffael was painting. It is reported that Raffael repudiated her on his death-bed as he wanted to be redeem from his sins. Four months after his death Margherita joined the monastery Santa Apollonia in Trastevere. It is said that she was model for Raffael's portrait La Donna Velata.
  • Ponte Sisto, (bus 23, 380). Pope Sixtus IV della Rovere (1471-1481) gave order to replace the old Roman bridge by a new one. It was Pope Sixtus IV who also ordered the Sixtine Chapel and the Opsedale di Santo Spirito to be built. So he ran out of money. He levied a tax on prostitution in order to gain money for the construcion of the Ponte Sisto.
  • Santa Maria in Trastevere, Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, +39 6 581 4802. summer: 8AM-8PM, winter: 8AM-12 noon, 4-8PM. One of the oldest churches in the city. The nave is lined with a mismatched collection of columns taken from ancient Roman buildings. The apse is covered in gold mosaics from the 13th century, arguably the finest mosaics in the city. Impressive mosaics also on the front. According to legend the church was founded in 222, so it would be one of the most ancient churches in the city. Written records mention a church on this place in 337. Waht is visible today was built in the 12th century, by order of Pope Innocence III. The facade is decorated with mosaics representing the Virgin Mary and ten unidentified figures. Most probablay these mosaics are the work of Petro Cavallini who created the mosaics of the lower apsis dated 1290 representing scenes from the life of Mary. The mosaics of the upper apsis in byzantine style are even older and date from 1140. The columns of the nave originate from the ancient Baths of Caracalla. The facade of Santa Maria in Trastevere is even more impressive at night when it is illuminated. (,bus stop Viale di Trastevere, bus n° H,8,630 and 780)
The interior of Santa Maria
  • Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, Piazza di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, +39 6 589 9289. daily 9.30-12.30AM, 4-6:30PM, frescos by Cavallini: M-Sa 10:15-12_15AM, Sun 11-12.30PM. Very ornately done and beautiful inside, but don't expect any information in English. All information panels are only in Italian. It's still a beautiful site though even if you don't read Italian. According to tradition St.Cecily suffered a particular cruel death as a martyr. She was scalded, suffocated and beheaded by three strokes on her neck. As she was singing all the time during her martyrdom she is considered the patron of music. The building of today shows a mixture of various styles, from the porticus of the 12th cent. to the 18th cent. facade.
  • San Francesco a Ripa, Piazza S.Francesco d'Assisi (South side of Trastevere). Named after St. Francis of Assisi, who stayed nearby. Inside the Paluzzi-Albertoni chapel is one of Bernini’s masterpieces, the statue of the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni. The column in front of the church comes from the ruins of Veii (see Rome/North).
  • Isola Tiberina. This is the island located in the middle of the Tiber River (Il Fiume Tevere) that separates Central Rome and Trastevere. It boasts both a major hospital, called Fatebenefratelli, and a small synagogue that was secretly used in the Second World War when Rome's main synagogue nearby was closed down. It also has a café and gelateria on the Rome side. It can be a nice alternative to getting to and from Trastevere if crossing the heavily trafficked Ponte Garibaldi ever gets old. Be sure to get photos from Garibaldi though as Isola Tiberina truly is beautiful. The island is 270 m long and up to 67 m broad. According to the legend envoys were sent to the temple of Asklepios in Epidauros in Greece in 291BC in order to get relief from an epidemic in Rome. The envoyes brought one of the holy snakes with them. The snake swam to the Tiber Island thus determining the place where a temple for Asklepios was built. The successor of the Asklepius sanctuary is the Church San Bartolomeo which was built by the German Emperor Otto III around the year 1000. The Ponte Rotto is what is left from the ancient Pons Aemilius, the oldes stone bridge over the Tiber erected around 180 BC. The bridge was partly destroyed during a flood in 1557, re-erected by Pope Gregor XIII and finally pulled down in 1598. In 62 BC the Senatorial road construction office replaced the wooden dfoot-bridge by the Ponte Fabricio.
  • Villa Farnesina, Via della Lungara 230 (on the northern edge of Trastevere), +39 6 6802 7268 (), [1]. M-Sa, 9AM-1PM. Delightful Renaissance house that was built by a rich banker from Siena, Agostino Chigi. In 1577 it was bought by the Farnese family and has since been known as Villa Farnesina. At one time there were plans by Michelangelo to build a bridge over the river to connect the villa with Palazzo Farnese on the other side. You can tour several beautiful rooms that are all decorated with frescoes, including some by Raphael. Particularly entertaining is the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, the former entrance hall, in which nearly every person represented is without clothes. €5.
  • Orto Botanico (Botanical Gardens), Largo Cristina di Svezia, 24 (Northwest edge of Trastevere). Sa 9AM-6:30PM, 5.30PM in Winter. Closed in August. This garden was originally established in 1883. It has over 3,500 species of plants and includes a "Scent-and-Touch" garden for those who are visually impaired.


The Janiculum

The Tempietto
  • Il Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill), (Can be reached by climbing Via Garibaldi from Trastevere. Go right, through the gates, into the Passegiato di Gianicolo in order to reach the viewpoint at Piazza Garibaldi.). This is not, contrary to popular belief, one of the original seven hills that Rome was founded on. It is the second highest after Monte Mario, though, and offers incredible panoramic views of the city as long as the authorities remember to prune the trees on the hillside (if they are too tall you can walk a few meters down the hill for views that are just as good). On the other side of the piazza there is also a nice view of the dome of St. Peter's. The Piazza and the street leading up the hill are dedicated to Giuseppe Garibaldi who led Italian troops against the French here in 1849. There are also several commemorative statues.
  • San Pietro in Montorio, (On the second corner of the windy Via Garibaldi.). This church, which was commissioned by Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, marks the point where, according to tradition, St. Peter was cruxified. Particularly interesting for Irish visitors as it contains the graves of three Gaelic Chiefs who fled Ireland in 1607.
  • The Tempietto, (in the grounds of San Pietro in Montorio. Behind the gate to the right of the entrance to the church.). Designed by Bramante to mark the spot of St. Peter's martyrdom, this is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. There is even a direct copy of it in Paris.
  • Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, (On the left of Via Garibaldi opposite San Pietro in Montorio.). This massive early 17th Century Baroque fountain was built to celebrate the re-opening of an old Roman aqueduct. Water played an important role in this area in Roman times as the grain was milled here using water mills.
The Lighthouse
  • Manfredi Lighthouse, (after Piazza Garibaldi follow the road down the hill in the direction of St. Peter's.). Strange to see a lighthouse on top of a hill. This was built in 1911 and was a gift to the city from Italians living in Argentina. From here you can continue down the hill, past Rome's largest and Italy's most important children's hospital, Bambino Gesu, eventually arriving at the River Tiber close to the Vatican.
  • Villa Pamphili, (Via Garibaldi leads into Via Aurelia Antica at Porta San Pancrazio. The park entrance is a short distance after the beginning of Via Aurelia). A large villa and 180 ha. park that is a major recreation area for Romans, and a popular spot for joggers. One unusual feature of the grounds is the colony of coypus (swamp beavers) around the lake. Natives of South America these ones are descended from some who wisely escaped from a fur farm. There are also colonies by the Tiber.

Do

  • Get lost in Trastevere. The cobbled streets are narrow and winding and random but losing your way will lead you to places you might not otherwise find. Note that the cobblestone streets (locally called sampietrini) are being paved elsewhere in Rome as the vibrations from cars driving over them have been found to lead to cracking in the foundations of many of the monuments and historic sites around the city. The sampietrini are mostly being left alone in Trastevere though.
  • Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere. Beautiful place to hang around and watch people going by, as well as the many buskers usually found in the square. Join the students sitting on the steps of the fountain or, if you can afford it, have a drink or meal at one of the restaurants and bars on two sides of the square.
  • Big Mama, Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18 (a narrow street leading off Via di San Francesco a Ripa.), [2]. Shows normally begin around 10PM but check Press for details. Rome’s original "House of the Blues". Has been going strong for 25 years. Italian and international artists, with blues and jazz concerts.

Buy

  • Viale di Trastevere, from the start of this street at Ponte Garibaldi and all the way to the Trastevere Train Station you can find stands selling fresh fruit and vegetables, flowers, clothing, accessories (such as knock-off designer purses and wallets) and a number of other things.
  • Porta Portese, on Sunday mornings hosts a huge flea market. Extends from Porta Portese to Viale di Trastevere.
  • Frengo's music, Via della Lungaretta, 65, +39 6 5833 2402. One of the few CD shops in the center of Rome still run by a music lover instead of a shop assistant in a franchising chain. You can find a nice selection of CDs, DVDs, Console games and Dolby Surround home stereos.

Eat

Isola Tiberina from ponte Garibaldi

Trastevere is the best place in city to get great Italian food at reasonable prices. There are dozens of quality restaurants in this area. A few are listed below; prices for a pizza or pasta dish with some wine or beer and bruschetta are around €12-15 and should not exceed €20 per person, though if you want to spend more you certainly have the option. Restaurants tend to open much earlier here than in other parts of Rome, mainly to cater to tourists as no self-respecting Roman would go out for dinner before 8PM.

  • Ai Bozzi, Piazza G. T. Arquati, 107 00153 Roma (in the heart of Trastevere, off Via della Lungaretta, close to piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere), +39 06.58.16.640, [3]. 12.30-15.30 & 19.00-24.00. Italian restaurant with excellent food and professional service. Traditional dishes as well innovative variations (try the fettuccine with artichokes and guanciale). Pizza is also served in the evening. Lovely outside terrace overlooking the piazza. €20-40 p/p.
  • Augusto, Piazza de' Renzi, 15, +39 6 580 3798. from 8PM. A small osteria in the heart of Trastevere. Authentic non-touristic Roman restaurant serving classic Roman dishes, hand-made desserts and wine. It's a good idea to phone ahead to see if they have room because this small place fills up fast every night, although if you don't mind waiting they'll squeeze you in if they can. They do not take reservations.
  • Fior di luna, Via della Lungaretta, 96, +39 6 6456 1314, [4]. Very good ice cream and made from Fair Trade products by an ice cream artist with a passion for taste.
  • Glass Hostaria, Vicolo del Cinque 58 (Trastevere), +39 6 5833 5903 (, fax: +39 6 5834 9666), [5]. Tu-Sa 8-11PM; closed 21 Jan 21-6 Feb. Uber-modern trattoria. €30-50.
  • Il Conte Tacchia, Vicolo del Bologna 87, +39 6 581 3189. Roman cuisine at dinner.
  • Ivo a Trastevere, via di S. Francesco a Ripa 158 (a short walk from Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere), +39 6 581 7082. Get here early if you want a table without a wait. Very popular pizzeria that attracts lengthy queues of young Romans, so it must be good.
  • La Fraschetta, Via San Francisco a Ripa (close to Viale Trastevere), [6]. Reputed to have the best gnocchi in the city, but it's only offered on Thursday nights. They offer 4 different sauces with gnocchi, and if you like cheese the best bet is gorgonzola. If you want to go on a Thursday, go early because by 9PM, the normal time to arrive at a restaurant in Rome, it will be packed. Opens at 7PM.
  • Osteria dell'Aquila, Via Natale del Grande 52/53 (take the H bus to Trastevere), +39 6 5810924 (fax: +39 6 581 0924). We-Mo. Mediterranean style restaurant. Menu is in Italian and English, and the waiters speak both languages. Open for lunch and dinner. The meals here are excellent and at very good prices. Make sure to try the seafood appetizers.
  • Osteria der Belli, (very close to Piazza Santa Maria). Run by four brothers from Sardinia. Particularly recommended for its seafood dishes.
  • Pizzeria Nick & Tony, Via di San Francesco a Ripa 21. Open everyday. Great little pizzeria run by 2 friendly Neapolitan brothers. You can get a big slice and a huge ice cold beer for €5. The place gets full of locals. That should tell you everything. get there quite early as in the evening they have a few pizzas left, most popular time is around lunch and after school. Also note that the street Via di San Francesco a Ripa has a strange numbering system - odd and even numbers are on the same side of the street so no 21 will be between 20 and 22. €5 for a pizza. (41.8876461386,12.4715269483)
  • Planet Kebab, Via Natale del Grande, 17, +39 6 581 9863. Good Turkish food, from Kebab to Falafel. This place is very clean, and the guys working there are very friendly. They claim to be open every day of the year.
  • Ristorante Asinocotto, Via dei Vascellari 48, +39 6 589 8985, [7]. Lunch Tu-Sa noon-2:30PM, dinner Tu-Su 7:30PM-11:30PM. Home made pasta and the owners also have a farm in Tuscany which provides lots of fresh produce.Their selection of goat cheeses is good. Chef is Giuliano Brenna. They are open both lunch and dinner. Their wine bar has a selection of over 300 wines, spirits, and drinks to choose from. They're open from 8PM-11PM so a perfect place to go for a relaxing after dinner drink before heading to one of the many bars in Trastevere or clubs throughout the city. Appetizers €11-12 , pasta €13-14, main course €16-23, desserts €8.
  • San Calistus, Via San Francesco a Ripa, 9 (Close to Piazza Santa Maria). One of the best pizzerias in all of Rome.
  • Taverna Mercanti, (near the church of Santa Cecilia). On the other side of Viale Trastevere from most of the other restaurants. Hard to find but well worth it for perhaps the best dining experience in Rome. In the summer months you can sit outdoors. Inside it resembles a hugely atmospheric medieval barn. Pizza is the best choice here though there are other options.
  • Tony's, Via della Cinque (near Piazza Trilussa (off the Lungotevere, near the Ponte Sisto)). On a beautiful old Roman laneway with indoor and outdoor seating. One of the best lasagne in the city as well as plenty of pasta, meat and seafood options. Risotto alla pescatora (seafood risotto) is delicious; ask for it if it's not on the menu.
  • Trattoria de Gli Amici, Piazza Sant'Egidio 8, +39 6 580 6033. Closed on Sunday. Open from 7:30PM to 11:30PM. Very interesting place in the heart of Trastevere district. Run by very kind handicapped people, it has nice cuisine.
  • Vincenzo alla Lungaretta, Via della Lungaretta, 170/173, +39 6 580 0345. Out of the way. Great food and great service and a very reasonable price.
  • Vivi Bistrot, Via Vitellia, 102 (In the Villa Pamphili park), +39 6 582 7540, [8]. Suitable for children as well. Useful for arranging a picnic in the park.
  • Enoteca Ferrara, Piazza Trilussa 41. ...
  • Vizi Capitali (Deadly Sins), Via della Renella 94.
  • Sora Lella, Via di Ponte Quattro Capi 16 (on Isola Tiberina), 066861601, [9]. closed Sun, Tue morning and 2 weeks in August. 44 to 58 E.
  • A'Ciaramira, Via Natale del Grande 41, 065881670, [10]. closed Sun, 1 Week in August. 47 to 72 €.
  • Corsetti-Il Galeone, Piazza San Cosimato 27, 065816311, [11]. closed Sun. 47 to 72 €.
  • Sala di Tè Trasté, Via della Lungaretta 76, 065894430. 5PM to 2AM. for tea and cakes

Drink

  • Baccanale, Via della Lungaretta. A small bar with a great range of drinks, friendly staff and a manic display of cocktail making later on in the evening. There are several TV screens showing major sporting events. Probably the best bar in the world considering it's location and stereotypical perfection. The staff are very welcoming to tourists. It is a secret that you'll be lucky to find in the narrow, winding streets of Trastevere.
  • Garbo, Vicolo di Santa Margherita 1a., +39 6 581 6700. This is a very small gay bar located in an area not catering much to those seeking gay nightlife. The décor is fun and the staff are very nice. Drinks are good, but expensive. As it is small it can get crowded. In spite of this it's best to visit Garbo when you've had enough of Coming Out (Via San Giovanni in Laterano, 8 - by the Colosseum) or the more intense Muccassassina (Via del Comercio, 32) and are seeking a more relaxed and casual come down from your night out. They are open later than most of the other gay bars.
  • Shelter, Via dei Vascellari 35, +39 6 588 0862. Another small and relaxed bar. Located right near the Ristorante Asinocotto in a quiet area of Trastevere. Very hospitable staff and they play soft music by candlelight.

Sleep

Budget

  • Bed and Breakfast Interno 9 Rome – Via Enrico Fermi 15. [12]. ☎ +39 338 343 6365, +39 347 344 7399. Bed and breakfast with single and double bedrooms and one apartment to accommodate 4-6 people. Some bedrooms have a shared shower. Breakfast is included. Also available: a well equipped kitchen. Single room: €35-60. Double €60-120. Daily and weekly rates
  • Hotel Cisterna Rome, Viale della Cisterna, 7, +39 6 581 7212 (fax: +39 6 581 0091), [13]. 2 star hotel with 24 hr reception. 20 rooms, All equipped with modern services and private bathrooms. Bookable online. €110-190.
  • Roma Trasteverina B&B – Via Luigi Santini 21. [15]. ☎ +39 320 617 3754 (fax:+39 6 556 5466). Single €40-60, double €80-120, twin and double rooms.
  • B&B Casale Altavilla (Bed & Breakfast with swimming pool), Via del Fontanile Arenato, 4 (Undergound Line A Anagnina-Battistini), +39 06 66030469 (), [16]. Double Room from €80 to €100.
  • Relais Rome Sweet Home Trastevere, Viale Trastevere, 70 (tram 8 get off at Pubblica Istruzione), +39 6 8376 7113 (, fax: +39 6 6979 7730.), [17]. checkin: 11AM; checkout: 10AM. Small hotel with 4 rooms. All equipped with satTV , Wi-Fi and private bathrooms. Online booking. €80-240.
  • Residenza Belli Rome – Via Goffredo Mameli, 47 - 00153 Rome, Italy [18] Telephone +39 06 45428696 • Fax +39 06 99332984. Guest house of Rome with six single, double and triple bedrooms with wi-fi internet, LCD TV, private bath and shower. Double room: 70 euros, breakfast included.
  • Trastevere Feltre1, Largo Bernardino da Feltre 1, 3393355822564, [19]. Small design B&B with 3 rooms. All equipped with satTV and beautiful view. € 50-80.
  • Casali Papareschi Apartments, Via Pietro Blaserna, 101 - 00146 Roma (700m from Trastevere Station - tram 8 or bus 170), +39 06 5586387 (, fax: +39 06 89280229), [20]. checkin: From 3PM; checkout: By noon. 30 apartments built out of a renovated 19th-century farmhouse. Apartments range from studio flats for 1/2 people to two-bedrooms apartments for max 6 people. Private bathroom, equipped kitchenette, free Wi-Fi, SkyTv. Right behind Trastevere Train Station (tram n°8 and bus n°170). Free private parking. Very friendly staff. € 50/90 (studio flat for max 2 people) - 180/250 (2-bedrooms apt for 6 people). (41.867756,12.470459)

Mid-range

  • Guest House Arco dei Tolomei Rome – Via Arco de’ Tolomei. [21]. ☎ +39 6 5832 0819 (fax: +39 6 5834 4804). Minimum stay 3 days and seasonal rates starting from €144 double room. All the rooms of the Arco dei Tolomei come with private bath and shower.
  • Hotel Residence il Villino Rome – Via Nicolò Tommaseo, 16 - 00152 Rome, Italy [22] Telephone + 39 06 5810243 • Fax +39 06 5880254. Three star hotel with single, double, twin, triple e quadruple rooms. Services include private bathroom, shower, free internet, breakfast included and meeting rooms.
  • Hotel Santa Maria, Vicolo del Piede 2, [23]. Gated hotel just off Piazza Santa Maria. Comfortable and has a nice courtyard. €160-230.
  • Hotel Villa della Fonte, Via della Fonte dell'Olio, 8, +39 6 580 3797 (, fax: +39 6 580 3796), [24]. Small hotel, all rooms have a private bath, free Wi-Fi, satelliteTV and A/C. €150-180.
  • Hotel Villa Magnolia, Via delle Fornaci, 439, +39 6 2038 2872 (, fax: +39 6 2838 2873), [25]. Tranquil garden hotel with 5 rooms and 1 apartment, en-suite bathrooms, Wi-Fi, A/C and secure parking. €140-280. (41.89742,12.47025)
  • Hotel Villa Rosa Rome – Via Giovanni Prati, 1 - 00152 Rome, Italy [26]. Telephone +39 06 5810243 • Fax +39 06 5880254. The Villa Rosa Hotel is a three star accommodation with single, twin, double, triple and quadruple rooms. Private bath, shower, satellite TV and internet access among the services available. Double and twin for 100 Euros, breakfast included.
  • WRH Trastevere, Via di San Crisogono, 40, +39 6 580 6344 (, fax: +39 6 9670 8681), [27]. checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. Friendly modern & minimalist guesthouse in the heart of Trastevere €89-109. (41.88786,12.47432)

Splurge

  • Arco dei Tolomei, Via dell'Arco dei Tolomei 27, +39 6 5832 0819 (, fax: +39 6 589 9703), [28]. €190-220.
  • Ripa Hotel, Via degli Orti di Trastevere 3, +39 6 58611 (), [29]. Colourful hotel with 170 modern and stylishly designed rooms and suites, fitness and meeting facilities. €230-540.
  • WRH Trastevere (Trastevere), Via San Crisogono 40, +39 065 806 344 (), [31]. checkin: 1.0PM; checkout: 11.00AM. WRH Trastevere is a bright and charming guesthouse with a modern and minimalist design to it - Price €99-189.

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