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Rio de Janeiro

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South America : Brazil : Southeast : Rio de Janeiro (state) : Rio de Janeiro
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Rio de Janeiro is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — have a look at each of them.
For other places with the same name, see Rio de Janeiro (disambiguation).
File:Brazil - Rio de Janeiro.jpg
Rio de Janeiro, The Marvelous City

Rio de Janeiro is the second largest city in Brazil, on the South Atlantic coast. Rio is famous for its breathtaking landscape, its laidback beach culture and its annual carnival.

The harbor of Rio de Janeiro is comprised of a unique entry from the ocean that makes it appear as the mouth of a river. Additionally, the harbor is surrounded by spectacular geographic features including Sugar Loaf mountain at 395 m (1,296 feet), Corcovado Peak at 704 m (2,310 feet), and the hills of Tijuca at 1,021 m (3,350 feet). These features work together to collectively make the harbor one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World [1]).

Rio de Janeiro will host many of the 2014 FIFA World Cup games, including the final, and the 2016 Summer Olympics and Paralympics, becoming the first South American city to hold either the Summer or Winter Olympics.


Districts

  • Centro including Santa Teresa. The city's financial and business center also has many historic buildings from its early days.
  • Zona Sul (South Zone) including Copacabana and Ipanema. Contains some of the more upscale neighborhoods and many of the major tourist sites.
  • Zona Norte (North Zone). The Maracanã stadium and more.
  • Zona Oeste (West Zone), a rapidly growing suburban area including primarily the districts of Jacarepaguá and Barra da Tijuca, popular for its beaches!

Understand

Sugar Loaf mountain

It is a common mistake to think of Rio as Brazil's capital. It was this until April 21st 1960 when Brasilia became the capital. Beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema, the Christ The Redeemer (Cristo Redentor) statue, the stadium of Maracanã and Sugar Loaf Mountain (Pão de Açúcar) are all well-known sights of what the inhabitants call the "marvelous city" (cidade maravilhosa), and are also among the first images to pop up in travelers´ minds, along with the Carnaval celebration.

Sadly, most people also know Rio for its violence and crime. The drug lords and the slums, or favelas, are the tip of very old social problems. The favelas are areas of poor-quality housing, slums usually located on the city's many mountain slopes, juxtaposed with middle-class neighborhoods.

The South Zone holds most of Rio's landmarks and world-famous beaches, in an area of only 43.87 square km (17 square miles). Many of them are within walking distance of each other (for instance, the Sugar Loaf lies about 5 miles from Copacabana beach). Most hotels and hostels are located in this part of the city, which is compressed between the Tijuca Range (Maciço da Tijuca) and the sea. There are important places in other regions as well, such as Maracanã stadium in the North Zone and the many fascinating buildings in the Center.

If you plan on staying in Rio for more than a couple of days it would be good to invest in a copy of ``How to be a Carioca``(Priscilla Ann Goslin, Livros TwoCan Ltda, R$32). This is an amusing look at the people of Rio and will help you enjoy the city as well as appear less of a `gringo` when you hit the streets.

History

Though modest and small, the Paço was the office of the King of Portugal and Brazil's two Emperors.

Rio was founded in 1565 by the Portuguese as a fortification against French privateers who trafficked wood and goods from Brazil. Piracy played a major role in the city's history, and there are still colonial fortresses to be visited (check below). The Portuguese fought the French for nearly 10 years, both sides having rival native tribes as allies. For the next two centuries it was an unimportant outpost of the Portuguese Empire, until gold, diamonds, and ore were found in Minas Gerais in 1720. Then, as the nearest port, Rio became the port for these minerals and replaced Salvador as the main city in the colony in 1763. When Napoleon invaded Portugal, the Royal Family moved to Brazil and made Rio capital of the Kingdom (so it was the only city outside Europe to be capital of a European country). When Brazil became independent in 1822, it adopted Monarchy as its form of government (with Emperors Pedro I and Pedro II). Many historians and Brazilians from other places say cariocas are nostalgic of the Royal and Imperial times, which is reflected in many place names and shop names. In 2009, the city won their bid to host the games of the XXXI Olympiad in the summer of 2016.This was the fifth bid by the city, whose 1936, 1940, 2004, & 2012 bids lost.

Get in

Rio is one of the country's major transportation hubs, second only to São Paulo.

Distance from some capitals:

By plane

  • International and most domestic flights land at Galeão - Antônio Carlos Jobim International Airport (better known as Galeão International Airport) (IATA: GIG) (ICAO: SBGL), Tel: +55 21 3398-5050 (fax 3393-2288). This airport is 20 km away from the city center and main hotels. While you can sometimes zoom through Immigration and Customs, be prepared for a long wait. Brazilians travel with lots of baggage and long queues can form at Customs, which are usually hopelessly understaffed.
  • Santos Dumont Airport (IATA: SDU) (ICAO: SBRJ), Tel. +55-21-3814-7070 (fax. 2533-2218). Gets flights only from São Paulo and a few other domestic destinations. Located right next to the city center, by the Guanabara bay. Airlines that service Santos Dumont are: GOL [2], Varig [3], TAM [4], OceanAir [5], and Team [6]. Don't rush off without taking a look at the inside of the original terminal building, which is considered a fine example of Brazilian modernist architecture.

An air-conditioned bus service operated by Real[7] departs every 20-30 minutes from 05h30 to 22h00 and runs between both airports, the main bus terminal and further along the beachfront in Botafogo, Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon, and has its terminus at the Alvorada terminal near Barra Shopping in Barra da Tijuca. The full run takes at least 60 minutes, often double that. Single tickets are R$ 6.50. The bus has plenty of luggage space and is comfy. A smaller bus, also by Real [8], same price, runs every 30 minutes directly from Alvorada to Galeão airport along the Linha Amarela in as little as 35 minutes, traffic allowing.

There are two types of taxis. As you leave Customs you will see booths of different companies offering their services. These are considerably more expensive (ex: Galeão - Copacabana R$ 70; Galeão - Ipanema R$80) than the standard yellow taxis that are to be found outside the terminal building but the quality of the cars is generally better. With no traffic, ordinary taxis should cost you about R$40 (July 2009) on the meter to reach Ipanema or Copacabana but the price can go up by R$10 or more if you get stuck in a traffic jam. It is possible to pre-book airport transfers. Rio Airport Transfer [9], allow you to book and pay before you leave home for a similiar price as you would pay at the airport. Money change facilities are limited and high commissions are charged. Slightly better rates can be obtained, illegally, at the taxi booths but they may want you to use their cabs before changing money for you. In any event, don´t change more than you have to as much better rates are available downtown.

From the US, there are non-stop flights to Rio de Janeiro only from Washington, D.C. with United Airlines, Houston with Continental Airlines, Miami with American Airlines, and Atlanta with Delta Airlines. From New York, Dallas, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles, San Francisco and most of the rest of theUSA, you have to make a stop in the aforementioned U.S. cities or in São Paulo to get to Rio.

TACA connects Rio de Janeiro with Lima, with onward connections to Central America or other South American cities.

From Europe, Air France flies twice a day from Paris, British Airways three times a week from London, TAP twice a day from Lisbon and Porto, and Iberia daily from Madrid and Barcelona.

By train

Rio's glorious Central Station, or Central do Brasil, made famous by a movie of the same name, serves mostly local commuter lines (SuperVia [10]), so it's unlikely that you'll arrive through here. It's worth a visit just to see it, though, you can get there either by bus or subway (subway is better; get off on Central station, line 1).

By bus

The long-distance bus depot, Rodoviária Novo Rio[11], is in the North Zone's Santo Cristo neighborhood. Taxis and coach buses can get you to the South Zone in about fifteen minutes; local buses take a bit longer. Frescão air-conditioned coaches can be caught just outside the bus station. The coaches connect the station to the city center and main hotel areas of Copacabana and Ipanema. Bus companies include :

By car

Rio is connected by many roads to neighboring cities and states, but access can be confusing as there are insufficient traffic signs or indications of how to get downtown.

The main interstate highways passing through Rio are:

  • BR-116, which connects the city to the southern region of Brazil. Also known as Rodovia Presidente Dutra
  • BR-101, which leads to the north and northwest, and
  • BR-040, which will take you in the central and western areas.

By boat

Ferries (barcas) connect neighboring Niteroi to Rio de Janeiro and arrive at Praça XV, in the city center.

Get around

The Corcovado mountain (with the Jesus statue on top) can be seen from nearly all of the city.
To get to the Cristo one had to climb hundreds of steps, however it is possible nowadays to use an elevator and escalator.

By taxi

A cab is one of the best ways to move around Rio. All legal cabs are yellow with a blue stripe painted on the sides. Taxis not designed like this are special service cars (to the airport or bus stations) or illegal. Rio taxis are not too expensive on a kilometer basis but distances can be quite considerable. A journey from Zona Sul to the Centro will cost around R$20, for example. The car can usually hold four people. You can ask a cab for a city tour, and arrange a fixed price (may be around US$20). Major taxi companies include Central de Taxi, Ouro Taxi and Yellow Taxi.

After getting into the taxi, check to see if the taximeter has been started (as of December 2008) it charges R$ 4.30 for the minimum ride, called bandeirada). If not, ask the taxi driver to do so. You may be ripped off by some taxi drivers. Avoid the blue, green, and white taxis as they tend to charge considerably more for the same ride.

Be aware that traffic jams in Rio can be terrible at times. A taxi ride from Ipanema to the bus terminal for instance can take an hour and a half if you get seriously stuck, so make sure you have margins in case you really can´t afford to be late.

By car

Traffic within some parts of Rio can be daunting, but a car may be the best way to reach distant beaches like Grumari, and that can be an extra adventure. Avoid rush-hour traffic jams in neighborhoods such as Copacabana, Botafogo, Laranjeiras, and Tijuca, where moms line up their cars to pick up their children after school. Buy a map, and have fun.

Note that Rio has an interesting programme of traffic management. Between 07.00 and 10.00 on weekday mornings the traffic flow of one carriageway on the beachfront roads of Ipanema and Copacabana is reversed, i.e. all traffic on those roads flows in the same direction, towards the city. Note also that on Sundays the carriageway closest to the beach is closed to allow pedestrians, cyclists, skateboarders, skaters and others to exercise.

By bus

Buses are still the cheapest and most convenient way to get around the South Zone (Zona Sul) of the city due to the high number and frequency of lines running through the area. For the adventurous or budget traveler, it is worth asking your hotel or hostel employees how to navigate the system or which routes to take to arrive at specific locations. However, you should be mindful of questionable characters and your belongings. By night buses are more scarce, and most lines will usually not be running by the time the bars and clubs are full. Buses start at R$ 2.20 (as of August 2009), but some buses with air conditioning charge higher fares. The fare is paid in cash to a controller or the driver inside the bus, by passing through a roulette. There are no tickets. Some residents and students have a digital card for free pass. Keep an eye out for pickpockets when the bus is crowded, and don't be surprised if your driver goes a little faster and brakes a little more suddenly than you'd like. Except for minibuses, all buses now have two doors: passengers get in through the front door and get off through the back (it was otherwise until 2001-2002).

The South Zone of Rio is best served by bus, but taxis are cheap.

Bus stops in the South Zone are often equipped with a shelter and a bench, but sometimes, far from tourist areas, they are less obvious and have no signs at all - you might have to ask. As a general rule in most parts of Brazil, buses stop only when you hail them, by extending the arm. If you don't hail and there are no passengers waiting to get off, the bus simply won't stop. The same can be said if you are on the bus wanting to get off at a particular stop. You should know the surroundings or the name of the intersection of the area you are going, or inquire to the employee operating the roulette, so you can signal to the driver that you want to get off, or he may not stop! There are no schedules nor timetables. Usually buses run no less infrequently than every 15 minutes. However, they can run just once an hour or more infrequently late at night or in remote areas of town.

There are 831 bus lines in Rio, but while they cover nearly all of the city, they might seem confusing to visitors, especially foreigners. Many lines differ only a few streets from each other in their itineraries, and some even have variants within the same line. Bus lines with a * or a letter means that this bus has a variant. It means that there may be a bus with the same name, same number, same origin, even same destination but with a complete different route. Lines are numbered according to the general route they serve:

  • beginning with 1 - South Zone/Downtown
  • beginning with 2 - North Zone/Downtown
  • beginning with 3 - West Zone/Downtown
  • beginning with 5 - within South Zone
  • beginning with 6 - North Zone/West Zone
  • beginning with 7 and 9 - from Rio to neighboring cities (Niterói, Duque de Caxias, Nova Iguaçu etc.)
  • beginning with 8 - within West Zone

Most popular lines for tourists are 583 and 584 (from Copacabana and Ipanema to Corcovado railway station), as well as 464 and 435 (from Copacabana to Maracanã). Buses 511 (Ataulfo de Paiva) and 512 (Bartholomeu Mitre) are also popular as they take you to Urca for the station to take the cable car up the Sugar Loaf mountain. Typically bus drivers and controllers won't understand any foreign language. If you can't speak Portuguese at all, use a map. Trying to speak Spanish is usually not particularly useful.

By subway

A detailed scheme of Rio's subway lines with stations and integração (connection) bus lines.
.

The Metrô Rio [17] subway system is very useful for reaching areas from Copacabana to Downtown, although the rest of Zona Sul is not particularly well-served and it closes after midnight (it opens 24x7 during Carnival). It is the only totally safe transport in Rio. The air-conditioned subway is clean, comfortable, and quick, and in 2006 it received bilingual Portuguese-English signs, maps, and a loudspeaker system to make the life of millions of foreign tourists easier (sometimes in a low volume and difficult to understand or they just forget to announce, so pay attention as if you rely only on the speaker you can miss your station). There are two main lines: Line 1 (Orange) has service to Copacabana, the Saara district, and much of Downtown, as well as Tijuca. Line 2 (Green) stops at the zoo, Maracanã stadium, and Rio State University. The two lines intersect at Estácio station.

Since 2003, the Metrô company operates bus lines from some stations to nearby neighborhoods which are not served by the subway system. This is particularly helpful for places uphill such as Gávea, Laranjeiras, Grajaú and Usina. Since the city grew around the Tijuca Range mountains, these neighborhoods will never be served by the subway, but you now can take the integração (connection) minibuses. The company calls it Metrônibus and Metrô na Superfície (literally, Subway on Ground), but actually they are ordinary buses in special routes for subway commuters. You can buy tickets for these - just ask for expresso (pronounced "eysh-PREH-sso", not "express-o") when buying a ticket (price is R$ 3.00 as of June 2007), then keep it after crossing the roulette. When you leave the subway, give the ticket to the bus driver (who shall be waiting in the bus stop just outside of the station). If you buy an ordinary ticket, you won't be able to get this bus for free - then it will cost a regular fee.

Recently the last wagon of each train has been marked women-only with a pink window sticker, in order to avoid potential harassment in crowded trains. Some men, however, are still to get used to this separation (since it is very recent) and many women, who are accustomed to hassle-free everyday travel in Rio's subway, also think the measure is unnecessary. Anyway, if you're a man, avoid getting into trouble with local security staff and stay off the pink-marked wagons. Note that the women only policy for the wagon is valid only in the rush hour.

Rio subway stations

Line 1 (Orange)

  • Praça General Osório (contruction began in February 2007) - to Ipanema Beach
  • Cantagalo (in Copacabana) - to Arpoador and the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon ("Lagoa")
  • Siqueira Campos (in Copacabana) - to Copacabana beach, and coaches to Ipanema, Leblon, and Gávea
  • Cardeal Arcoverde (in Copacabana) - to Copacabana and Leme beach and Rio Sul mall
  • Botafogo (in Botafogo) - to Botafogo beach, Botafogo Praia Shopping mall, and indie/art movie theaters; connection (integração) bus to Urca/Sugar Loaf and Jardim Botânico.
  • Flamengo (in Flamengo) - to Flamengo beach, Guanabara Palace (governor's)
  • Largo do Machado (in Laranjeiras) - connection (integração) bus to Corcovado, where is the Christ, the redeemer statue
  • Catete (in Catete) - to Catete palace (former presidential building, now Museum of the Republic)
  • Glória (in Glória) - to Our Lady of Glory cathedral
  • Cinelândia (in downtown) - to main square downtown, with National Library, City Hall, Municipal Theater (Rio's Opera house), Museum of Modern Art and Odeon movie theater. To Lapa (Bohemian district).
  • Carioca (in downtown) - Santa Teresa tram station, downtown offices
  • Uruguaiana (in downtown) - to popular market
  • Presidente Vargas (in downtown) - to downtown offices
  • Central (in downtown) - to Central do Brasil rail station, Itamaraty Palace (foreign ministry)
  • Praça Onze (in downtown) - to Sambódromo, the samba parade venue during Carnival
  • Estácio (in downtown) - to Line 2
  • Afonso Pena (in Tijuca)
  • São Francisco Xavier (in Tijuca)
  • Saens Peña (in Tijuca) - to Tijuca forest trail (way up!)

Line 2 (Green)

See

Beaches

Copacabana sidewalk
Ipanema and Leblon beaches
  • Ramos (in-bay)
  • Flamengo (in-bay)
  • Botafogo (in-bay)
  • Urca (in-bay)
  • Vermelha (in-bay)
  • Leme (oceanic)
  • Copacabana (oceanic)
  • Arpoador (oceanic)
  • Ipanema (oceanic)
  • Leblon (oceanic)
  • São Conrado (oceanic)
  • Barra da Tijuca (oceanic)
  • Recreio dos Bandeirantes (oceanic)
  • Grumari (oceanic)
  • Abricó (oceanic, nudist beach)

Abricó is the only official nudist beach in the city of Rio de Janeiro,it lies next to Grumari beach. Only accessible by car/taxi. An option is taking the bus numbered S-20 (Recreio) that passes along Copacabana/Ipanema/Leblon, and from the end of the line (ponto final) take a cab.

It is also worth visiting the beaches in Paqueta, particularly:

  • Praia da Moreninha (on the Guanabara Bay, but often not clean enough for swimming)

Cariocas have a unique beach culture, with a code of customs which outlanders (even Brazilians from other cities) can misconstrue easily. Despite what many foreigners may believe, there are no topless beaches. Girls can wear tiny string bikinis (fio dental), but it doesn't mean they're exhibitionists. For most of them, it's highly offensive to stare. Until the 1990s, men and boys wore speedos, but since then wearing bermudas or boardshorts has become more common, although speedos ("sungas" in Portuguese) seem to now be making a comeback. Jammers are less common but still accepted.

Waves in Rio vary from tiny and calm in the Guanabara bay beaches (Paquetá, Ramos, Flamengo, Botafogo, Urca) to high, surf-ideal waves in Recreio. In Leme, Copacabana, Arpoador, Ipanema, and Leblon, there's a popular way of "riding" the waves called pegar jacaré (pe-GAHR zha-kah-REH; literally, "to grab an alligator"). You wait for the wave to come behind you then swim on top of it until it crumbles next to the sand.

Commerce is common in Rio's beaches, with thousands of walking vendors selling everything from sun glasses to fried shrimp to cooling beverages (try mate com limão, a local ice tea mixed with lemonade, or suco de laranja com cenoura, orange and carrot juice). For food, there is also empada (baked flour pastry filled with meat or cheese) and sanduíche natural (cool sandwich with vegetables and mayo). Vendors typically shout out loud what they're selling, but they won't usually bother you unless you call them. All along the beaches there are also permanent vendors who will sell you a beer and also rent you a beach chair and an umbrella for a few Reais.

Along Copacabana and Ipanema-Leblon there are ´´postos´´ (lifeguard watchtowers with toilets and changing facilities). Posto 6 is unaccountably missing, although it is generally considered to be opposite Rua Francisco Sá when Cariocas arrange to meet on the beach. Although beaches are often considered a plural, democratic space, there are still some informal (and not too strict) "social area" divisions. In the South Zone, Copacabana attracts many tourists (foreign and national). Soliciting for prostitution is also present there, even in daylight. Ipanema is the major beach for the middle-class, and specifically the Posto 9 section (watchtower #9) is preferred by left-wing, intellectuals, artists, journalists and similar beach-goers. You can easily walk into a politician or someone famous there. The area close to the Farme de Amoedo street in Ipanema is known to attract the gay crowd of the city that show off openly their sexuality. The beaches in Barra and Recreio (Quebra-Mar, Pepê, Pontal, Prainha) were favored by surfers and hang-gliders until the 1980s, but now they are outnumbered by the middle-class and nouveau riche from the suburbs and also West Zone favela residents, such as now world-famous Cidade de Deus (City of God, made famous in the eponymous film).

There is also Praia de Ramos in the Guanabara Bay, a popular destination. There the Government built an artificial pool on the sand (piscinão). This area is not recommended for foreigners to visit.

Sights

The Maracanã stadium, once the largest on Earth.


  • Corcovado [18] - The train up costs R$45 for a round trip up to Cristo Redentor, and it is definitely worth the view. The queue for the train can get rather long. Try going when the morning coach parties have already passed through, i.e. when most tourists are having their lunch.
  • Pão de Açúcar - The Sugar Loaf mountains (one taller, the other shorter), Brazil's top landmark, with an aerial tramway to the top; a definite must see. A ticket up is R$ 44. The buses number 511, 512, 591 and 592 and the subway buses bring you to the base station. Do not make the mistake of thinking you have seen enough once you have seen the view from Cristo Redentor. Try Sugar Loaf at sunset for a truly mind-blowing experience.
  • Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas - A large lagoon in the middle of South Zone, with great views to Corcovado and Ipanema and Leblon beaches; you can jog or cycle all the way round; there are skating areas and you can hire little peddle-operated boats.
  • Maracanã - The largest football/soccer stadium in South America and once the largest on Earth.
  • Parque Lage - A small park, once a private mansion, where now a school of fine arts works. Contains some interesting plants and wildlife as well as strange concrete structures that will entertain the kids. The park is the beginning of a path up Corcovado, through sub-tropical rain forest.
  • Jardim Botanico - The Botanical Garden, planted up in the 1800s. It is both a park and a scientific laboratory. It contains a huge collection of plants from all over the world, not only tropical ones. If you take the bus note that Jardim Botanico is also the name of a neighborhood so make sure you take the right one to the entrance. The admission is $4. The gardens are well kept and very lush. Not far from the cafe, first you hear swooshing sounds. Look up and you can see small monkeys swinging from tree to tree.[19]
Although located across Guanabara Bay, one of Rio's best views (one that includes both the Christ and the Sugarloaf in your camera frame) can be seen from this Museum in Niteroi, a neighboring city only 15 minutes away from downtown Rio by ferry boat.

Buildings

  • Paço Imperial (1743) - Old Imperial Palace (though impressively modest), colonial architecture (in downtown, next to Praça XV, Fifteen Square).
  • Casa França Brasil (1820) - French cultural center, with gallery and video hall (in downtown, next to CCBB).
  • CCBB - Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (1906) - A cultural center with gallery, movie theater, video room, library and stages; usually hosts the main exhibitions in town (in downtown). An interesting building with old-fashioned elevators/lifts.
  • Candelária Church - Neoclassic cathedral (next to CCBB).
    Inside Candelária cathedral, in downtown.
  • Mosteiro de São Bento (1663) - Saint Benedict's Monastery, colonial architecture (in downtown).
  • Ilha Fiscal Palace (1889) - Located in the Guanabara Bay, next to the Navy Museum
  • Gloria Church (1739). Small but interesting church reached by a funicular. Nice views. (metro: Gloria)
  • Palácio Gustavo Capanema - Former ministry of culture, designed by French architect Le Corbusier; though small, it is regarded as an important pioneering in modern architecture (downtown).
  • Arcos da Lapa (1750) - Lapa Aqueduct, colonial structure that brought water from springs to downtown; now used by the one remaining tram line(in Lapa).
  • Catedral Metropolitana - a modern, cone-shaped cathedral, designed by Oscar Niemeyer (in Lapa).
  • São Francisco da Penitência church (1773) - Colonial church.
  • Teatro Municipal (1909) - City Theater, inspired by the Paris Opéra House (in Cinelândia square).
  • Biblioteca Nacional (1910) - National Library (in Cinelândia square).
  • Câmara Municipal - The City Hall, hosts the city council (in Cinelândia square).
  • Palácio do Catete - The former presidential palace (1893-1960), now hosts a museum of recent history and nice gardens (in Catete).
  • Itamaraty - Former presidential palace (1889-1893) and foreign office; now hosts a museum of South American diplomacy, a library and the UN information offices in Brazil (in Downtown, next to the Central station).
  • Palácio Guanabara - Former palace of the Imperial Princess, now governor's office; eclectic architecture; not open to public (in Laranjeiras).
  • Art Deco. Rio is a major center for the Art Deco style of architecture. Indeed, the statue of Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado is considered a classic example of Art Deco work. There are numerous buildings in Copacabana and elsewhere that employ this style.

Museums

There is no shortage of things to do on a rainy day. In addition to a wide range of museums, Rio has many cultural centers, which are run by banks and other organizations and usually host free exhibitions. Details of what is on can be found in the Segundo Caderno section of the daily O Globo newspaper, which provides more detail in a weekly Friday supplement. Also very useful is the Mapa das Artes Rio de Janeiro, which provides detailed bi-monthly listings as well as detailed maps of the city. This is free and can be picked up at most museums.

Downtown

Aerial view of downtown Rio and surroundings where most historic buildings and museums can be found.
  • Museu Histórico Nacional (National Museum of History) - A museum of Brazilian history stretching from colonial to imperial times; big collection of paintings, but poor in artifacts (downtown).
  • Museu Nacional de Belas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) - Includes large paintings from Academicist and Neoclassical Brazilian artists, as well as many copies of European sculptures (downtown, Cinelândia square).
  • MAM - Museu de Arte Moderna (Museum of Modern Art) - The second most important contemporary art museum in Brazil, after MASP (downtown, next to Santos Dumont airport). Modernist architecture spreading over almost the sea.
  • Museu da Imagem e do Som (Image and Sound Museum) - For researchers about Brazilian film, radio, and broadcasting industry (downtown).
  • Museu Naval (Navy Museum) - Located downtown not far from the ferry terminal.
  • Museu do Carnaval (Museum of Carnival) - History of Brazilian carnival and parades (in downtown, next to the Sambódromo).
  • Museu Chácara do Céu - An important collection of South American modern art (in Santa Tereza).

South Zone

  • Museu da República (Museum of the Republic) - Hosted on the former presidential palace, this museum hosts permanent exhibitions about recent Brazilian history (from 1889 on); one of main features is the room where president Getúlio Vargas shot himself in 1954 (in Catete).
  • Oi Futuro (Formerly Centro Cultural Telemar) - Formerly Museum of Telephone, it now hosts a fine gallery with temporary exhibitions of digital art or art with interactive medias; it is sponsored by the local phone company (in Catete).
  • Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf (International Naïf Art Museum) - In Cosme Velho, next to Corcovado rail station.
  • Museu Carmem Miranda (Carmem Miranda Museum) - About this Brazilian actress and singer (the lady with pineapples-and-bananas hat), the national icon in the 1940s and 50s (in Flamengo).
  • Museu do Índio (Museum of the Indian) - A small museum with a collection of Brazilian Indian (povos indígenas) photographs, paintings, artifacts and other craft (in Botafogo). Very popular with local schoolchildren, but has much for adults as well.
  • Museu Villa-Lobos - A modest collection about Brazil's most important composer (in Botafogo).

North Zone

  • Museu Nacional (National Museum) - Actually, it's the Natural History museum, with dinosaur fossils and lots of mounted tanned animals; go there if you want to see a jaguar without getting into the jungle; it was formerly the Emperor's Palace (in São Cristóvão, just next to the Zoo).
  • Museu do Primeiro Reinado (First Reign Museum) - A museum about the reign of Emperor Pedro I (1822-1831), but with a modest collection (in São Cristóvão).
  • Museu Museu de Astronomia e Ciências Afins (Astronomy Museum) - Also has an observatory (in São Cristóvão).
  • Museu do Trem (Train Museum) - A modest collection of 19th century engines, train cars and streetcars (in Engenho de Dentro).
  • Museu Aeroespacial (Aerospatial Museum) - Located in Campo dos Afonsos (in the suburbs).

West Zone

  • Museu Casa do Pontal - The most important collection of popular arts and crafts (in Recreio dos Bandeirantes).

Parks

Quinta da Boa Vista, a park where Rio's Zoo and The National Museum are located.
Road leading to the Serra dos Órgãos Nat'l Park. This specific mountain is called Dedo de Deus (Portuguese for God's Finger).

In addition to Jardim Botânico and Parque Lage, mentioned above, other parks worth a visit are:

  • Parque do Flamengo, also known as Aterro do Flamengo.
  • Parque Guinle
  • Campo de Santana
  • Quinta da Boa Vista
  • Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos

Do

Carnival

Samba School parade at the Sambodromo during Carnival

Still the greatest reason for visiting Rio seems to be the Carnaval. This highly-advertised party lasts for almost two weeks and it is well known for the escolas de samba (samba schools) that parade in Centro, on a gigantic structure called Sambódromo (Sambadrome). During Carnaval, Rio has much more to offer though, with the blocos de rua, that parade on the streets. There are now hundreds of these street "samba blocks", that parade almost in every neighborhood, especially in Centro and the South Zone, gathering thousands of people. Some are very famous, and there are few cariocas that have not heard of "Carmelitas", "Suvaco de Cristo", "Escravos da Mauá" or "Simpatia É Quase Amor".

Sambodrome at night. Here thousands spend the night dancing, singing and celebrating their favorite samba school (comparable to soccer teams) till dawn.

The rest of the year, samba shows are popular with tourists, and are held at several venues like Plataforma and Scala. These are expensive and not really representative of Brazilian culture, they present a lot of almost naked women and bad musicians, a tourist trap (much like the real thing.) Much more interesting and genuine, though, are the night practice sessions held by the various samba schools in the months leading up to Carnaval. You will find only a small number of tourists here, and you will be served the best caipirinhas of your trip! These go on into the wee hours of the morning, with the fun really only starting at 1-2 A.M. A good cab driver should be able to hook you up, and cabs will be available to take you back when you are samba-ed out. Salgueiro and Mangueira are good choices, as they are two of the larger samba schools, and are located relatively close to the tourist areas in a fairly safe area.

Note that a change is afoot that may make this genuine experience a thing of the past (or more convenient, depending on your viewpoint) for all but the most savvy tourists. The local government built a complex of buildings (Cidade do Samba) where many of the samba schools are moving their practice halls and float-construction facilities from the gritty warehouses typically located in or near their home favelas. One can expect many more tourists, and shows made-up for the tourists as the tourist bureau milks this facility for all it's worth year-round.

Here is a list of some of the samba schools:

  • Mangueira, Rua Visconde de Niterói, 1072, Mangueira, +55(21) 3872-6786 (, fax: +55(21) 2567-4637), [20]. Rehearsals every Saturday, 10PM.
  • Salgueiro, Rua Silva Teles, 104, Andaraí, +55(21) 2238-9258 (), [21]. Rehearsals every Wednesday, 8PM.
  • Acadêmicos da Rocinha [22].
  • Beija-Flor [23].

The newest addition for tourists is the Samba City [24].

Music

Rio was the cradle of three of Brazil most important musical genres: samba, choro, and bossa nova. In recent years, there has been a boom of traditional samba and choro venues. A lot of them are in the downtown district of Lapa. There are good and cheap nightlife options, where you will see some of the best musicians of the country. Any of the city newspapers provide pointers to the best shows.

If you're not such an anthropological type of tourist, you can check out the same papers for tips on other kinds of music. Being a big city, Rio has big and small clubs that play almost every kind of music. The major mainstream clubs mostly play whatever's on the Radio - which is usually whatever's on the USA radios and MTV - but the underground scene has a lot to offer on Rock, E-Music, Rap and such. The best way to find out about those are the flyers handed or left at hostels, cinema and theater lobbies, nightclub lines, etc.

New Year’s Eve celebrations

Rio hosts the country's largest and most popular New Year’s Eve celebrations. The huge fireworks display and music shows attract 2 million people to the sands of Copacabana beach every year. People dress in white for luck and toast the arrival of the new year. It's usual also to have some national and international concerts on the beach for free.

Hang gliding and paragliding

The Hangliding and Paragliding flights have found in Rio de Janeiro, the ideal land for its high hills and favorable wind. Different from other places in the world, in Rio, the sport could be done in urban areas and landing on the beach! These conditions naturally attract many tourists who get the courage to enjoy a flight. And even the most inexperienced person can flight since there´s no training or special gear needed. 2437-4592 to 7817-3526 Sky Center Operator included:

Sky Center [26]

Panoramic flights

If you have the money the following operators give you panoramic flights in helicopters:

  • Cruzeiro Taxi Aéreo [27]
  • Helisight [28]

Favela (Shantytown) tours

The following operators offer tours of Rocinha (Warning: NEVER go on your own). This is often considered an awkward journey by locals, as you will probably go there in a safari like car:

  • Favela Architectour, [29]. Run by community residents and proceeds benefit local NGOs.
  • Paulo Amendoim, ph: +55 (21) 3322-8498, +55 (21) 9747-6860, (email: pauloamendoim@hotmail.com).
  • Marcelo Armstrong ph: +55 (21) 3322-2727, (email: info@favelatour.com.br) [30]
  • Be a Local , ph: +55 (21) 9643-0366 [31]. R$65 for a three hour tour on the weekend (Oct. 2007).
  • Aurélio Rio Guide - Rio de Janeiro Tours, ph: +55 (21) 8370-2135 , [32], (email: [33]). Run by Aurélio, who grew up in the Favela, went to France and speaks English, Frensh, Spanish and Portuguese.

Learn

For tourists there are many interesting things to learn. Why not take a rainy day in town to have samba (the national rhythm) classes or capoeira, a mix of dance and fighting created by the then enslaved African community. Is not as hard as outsiders may think, and it's original and fun. At Casa Rosa Cultural [34], an antique house in Laranjeiras neighborhood, they offer special classes for the beginner tourists.

If you are staying in Brazil for an extended time, major universities offer Portuguese courses for foreigners, usually for a very low price and with high educational standards.

  • Universidade Estadual do Rio de Janeiro[35]
  • Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ) [36] - Offers courses at various levels in Portuguese for Foreigners [37]. R$428 for one semester, or R$214 if you're a regular student at UFRJ.
  • Universidade Federal Fluminense [38] (located in Niterói)
  • Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio de Janeiro (PUC-Rio) [39] - Its courses Portuguese for Foreigners [40] are popular, but a bit pricey at R$1632 per semester for the beginner's levels.
  • Goethe-Institut [41]
  • Instituto Brasil-Estados Unidos [42]
  • Cultura Inglesa [43]
  • Instituto Cervantes [44]
  • Aliança Francesa [45]
  • Instituto Nacional de Matemática Pura e Aplicada (IMPA) [46] - the National Institute for Pure and Applied Mathematics. A center with an international renown for scientific excellence and superb working conditions in Mathematics. You can take any course for free. The summer courses (Jan-Feb) are very popular and there is even the possibility of getting some modest funding for the summer.

Buy

Money

Banks do Money Exchange but only the bigger branches and major currencies. There might be a commission. Better rates can be found at shops with the sign ´´Cambios`´ which base their rates on a semi-official ´´Parallel`` rate, which is slightly higher than the commercial rate and thus better than you will get with a credit card or ATM. These are usually found on the main commercial streets, i.e. Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana, one block from the Copacabana sea front, and Rua Visconde de Pirajá, two blocks from the Ipanema beach. Rates vary, so ask around. The shop offering the best rate today may not offer the best rate tomorrow so if you are changing money more than once ask around again.

  • Moedas Moedas, 7 Setembro 88 (A numismatic shop in a little shopping mall downtown). Changes almost any type of currency. Even unexchangeable Paraguaian Guaranis. The rate can be quite bad for less common currencies. No commission.

Shopping

Colonial buildings next to modern skyscraper in downtown Rio.

When shopping in street commerce, always bargain; this can lower prices considerably. Bargaining in stores and malls, though, is usually impolite. But naturally merchants won't bargain unless you ask, especially if you are clearly a tourist. To tourists, items can easily be overpriced by a factor of 20% especially in highly informal markets such as Saara or on the beach.

  • A typical Brazilian hammock shouldn't be more than R$20-30 but they can sell for up to US$150.
  • A beer on the beach should cost around R$3.00
  • A caipirinha can be had for the same price (around R$3.00-R$4.00) and you get a great show as the ingredients are produced from a cooler and lime slices muddled before your eyes
  • You can get coconut water for R$2.00-3.00
  • For trinkets, your best bet is the "hippie fair" in Praça General Osório in Ipanema every Sunday.
  • For a sterile norte-americano-style shopping experience, head to the malls in Barra da Tijuca.
  • For a cheap price, head to Norte Shopping in Del Castilho (the 456 or the 457 bus can leave you in front of it. Take them at Praça General Osório in Ipanema) or to the Nova América Outlet Shopping in Del Castilho too (take the subway and leave it on Del Castilho Station. It has a passage to the shopping mall).

Great bargains can be had on Brazilian-made clothing, as well as some European imports. Most imported items, however, such as electronics, tend to be insanely expensive due to protective import duties. For example, you will find digital cameras sell for about twice what they sell for in the U.S.

Store managers in Rio often speak some English, as this gains employees an almost-automatic promotion. But "some" can be very little, so it is useful to learn at least some very basic Portuguese. Just knowing basic greetings, numbers, and how to ask directions and prices will get you at least a "B" for effort, and despite finding that store clerks may know more English than you Portuguese, it can still come in handy to know a bit of the language. Don't be afraid to resort to writing numbers, pictures, or resorting to pantomime. Clerks will often tap out prices for you on a calculator. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted in Brazil, with American Express to a significantly lower degree. But beware that many stores will accept either Visa or Mastercard, but not both! If you carry only one, look for the sign in the store window before attempting to buy.

A great choice of gift, since they do not take much space in the suitcase back home, are bikinis, a trademark from Rio for its quality and fashion style.

For local crafts store, a great choice is PÉ DE BOI, [47] in Laranjeiras neighborhood. A lovely store with many great gift ideas. There are two floors, the first one composed of items that are for sale, such as pieces made from wood, ceramic and fiber fit to decorate any living room space. The second floor is where they sometimes have art exhibits, usually related to Brazilian history, culture or customs from various regions that are distinctly scattered throughout the country. If you're looking for a souvenir to take back home, this is the place to go.

Another lovely choice of handcraft is BRASIL & CIA, [48], a store which the biggest concern is to keep the Brazilian identity in all that its sold. They privilege artists who didn’t become any kind of art education and have difficulties to sell their art.


Rio has several malls (shopping centers, just like this, in English), most of them in the South and West Zones. Everything there is normally more expensive than in street shops, but safety and comfort might worth if you don't feel like walking too much.

  • Rio Sul - The biggest mall in the South Zone, located just between Copacabana and the Sugar Loaf.
  • Botafogo Praia Shopping - Located in the Botafogo beach area facing the Sugar Loaf and Guanabara Bay; has a nice view and a belvedere on the rooftops; it is sometimes called just "Shopping Botafogo", but don't take it for Rio Sul, which is also located in Botafogo neighborhood.
  • Barra Shopping - The biggest mall in the city and arguably the largest in Latin America.
  • New York City Center - Next to Barra Shopping, has multiplex movie theaters, American-like restaurants including Outback Steakhouse and TGIF.
  • Norte Shopping - The biggest in the North Zone.
  • Nova América Outlet Shopping - Find cheapest stores for clothing and typical Brazilian wear; can be easily reached through Del Castilho subway station (Line 2).

A good shopping guide to Rio you have on Gringo-Rio.com [49], there you will find tips on anything from buying trainers to finding farmers markets.

Eat

In Rio de Janeiro you can probably find something to fit any craving. A good approach to local food is "comida a kilo" - buffet style restaurants where you pay by the weight of the food on your plate. An excellent place to go with your friend or even with your partner is the Fellini restaurant. Located in Leblon, the place has a "pay for what you eat" buffet, with really good and beautiful food. Great for all tastes, it has even Asian food on the menu. More information available online [50].

Don't miss the Brazilian most famous dish, the feijoada (fay-zho-AH-da), made with black beans and pork. It is typically served city-wide on Saturdays. An specialized restaurant that serves nothing but the traditional an authentic Brazilian feijoada, is Casa da Feijoada, in Ipanema. Definitely a must try for any tourist in the wonderful city. Feijoada is a black bean stew filled with big chunks of meat, like sausages, pork and beef. Along with the "feijoada", you also get some colorful side dishes that come with it, such as rice, cassava (which is roasted manioc), collard greens, fried pork rinds, and some orange slices, to sweeten things up a bit. This is bonafide, authentic "Carioca (term used for anything deriving from Rio)" culinary excellence, almost worth the trip alone! Best while sipping down "caipirinia", a drink made from lime juice, sugar and alcohol ("cachaça"), good stuff.

For the hungry, nothing beats a good rodízio (all-you-can-eat service). These are available in numerous types, although the most well-known are the churrascaria, all-you-can-eat grilled meats. Marius [51] has arguably the best churrascaria in town. Porcão [52] has 5 restaurants around Rio, whereas Carretão [53] has a good and cheap(er) rodizio. At various restaurants around town, you can also find rodízio style dining featuring seafood, pizza, or various appetizer-style snacks. The defining element of rodízio is that unlike an all-you-can-eat buffet, the servers continuously bring food to your table of various kinds. In addition, the Monchique Churrascaria is an excellent choice for a rodizio buffet restaurant. As well as it's extensive buffet, waiters constantly come to your tables with wide selections of grilled meats for you to try if you wish. The price is somewhere around R$22 (around $11 or £7) and it is on the main street in the Copacabana area of the city, Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana.


If you like meat but want an alternative to the rodizios, a good place to eat at is Filé de Ouro (Rua Jardim Botânico, 731, Jardim Botânico; phone: 55 (21) 2259-2396; see Google Maps for directions). The place is simple and cozy. During the weekends there are usually big lines, but the steak is delicious. Try "Filé à Oswaldo Aranha", with toasted garlic.

Brazil has the largest population of Japanese outside of Japan, and sushi has become widely popular in Rio too. If you are a sashimi and sushi lover, you will find a great deal of options in Rio de Janeiro. If you are in Ipanema or nearby, a great tip is Benkei [54], that has an "all you can eat" buffet, with high quality products, great environment and staff for nice prices.

As a former ex Portugal colony, Brasil has maintained many influences of this country on its culinary. Therefore you will find great authentic Portuguese restaurants in Rio. A good option, from the localization to the ambiance, and naturally the food, is the CBF Restaurant, in the Tiradentes Square, a lovely area full of antique architecture.

In Leblon, the best choice is the hip and contemporaneous Zuka, [55] where chef Ludmila creates many original recipes. In Ipanema, Zazá Bistrô [56] is a trendy, sexy and exotic place with great South Asian dishes. Good to go as a couple.

Because its huge coast, many Brazilian specialties are in the seafood area. They are very rich in shrimps, lobster, calamaris, shellfish, clams, mollusks and many other tasty fishes. So, once in this land, don't miss the opportunity to order those lovely dishes. An option of restaurant very well known is Azul Marinho [57], in Arpoador, very close to Ipanema.

The highest recommendation for a decently priced superb meal is at Sobrenatural, that has the some of the freshest fish in Rio. Go on Monday, Wendesday or Friday, when they have live samba and chorinho music by renowed artists. It takes place at Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 432 Santa Teresa.

For sophisticated people who enjoy simple life, Via Sete [58] is in the heart of Ipanema, on Garcia D'Ávila. This grill restaurant offers a great bang for the buck: from their veranda you get to people-watch pretty Brazilians. There you can enjoy tasty wraps and sandwiches.

Felice [59] is one of those tasteful places you can just hang out all day and all night: it has a great breakfast, a healthy lunch, varied gourmet ice-cream flavours at the palour, and a hip sunset after hour vibe. St.Tropez inspired dinner menu with a fair cost benefit and a lounge crowd after 11PM.

Travellers with fatter pockets may also splash out a bit at the Dias Ferreira street in Leblon, Rio's up-and-coming restaurant row.

There are many places to get pizza and lots of restaurants also offer pasta. Be warned! Pizza is not at all like Italian pizza, the main difference being that fresh sliced tomatoes are used rather than canned or cooked tomatoes. Brazilian pasta is best avoided; the pasta quality is low, it is always overcooked and the sauces are usually horrendous. Stick to local foods!

Rio is also famous for its pastries and street food, heritage from Portuguese and old European culture. In most cafeterias (lanchonete; lun-sho-NETCH) you can have a pastel (pahs-TELL) or salgado (saw-GAH-do; local pastry) for less than R$2. Typical pastries are coxinha (ko-SHEEN-ya; chicken nugget shaped like a chicken leg), and unique Rio's joelho (zho-EH-lyo; rolled dough filled with ham and cheese). Also try pão de queijo (pawn-deh-KAY-zho; cheese baked dough), typical from Minas Gerais but very common in Rio as well, and tapioca (typical from Bahia), a kind of crepe made out of manioca flour.

For drinking, ask for guaraná (gwa-ra-NAH; soda made from the seed of an Amazon fruit, also available as a strong drink), mate (MAHTCH; sweet ice tea; not like Rio Grande do Sul or Argentina's hot and sour mate), água de coco (ah-gwa-djee-KOH-ku; natural coconut water) or caldo de cana (caw-do-djee-KAH-na; sugarcane juice). There is also a common fruit called açaí (ah-sah-EEH), with a dark-purple pulp out of which are made juices, and ice-creams. Typical cariocas eat it like cream in cups or glasses, mixed with granola, oats or other flakes. The best place for such drinks are one of a number of Rio's open juice bars. Very often, these are located on street corners and have long, curved bars offering you juices from pretty much every fruit you can imagine. The best option is a small chain of juice bars called "Big Bi's". The juices are astounding value alongside their good selection of salgados and sandwiches. Their açaí is one of the best in terms of value and taste and the staff are excellent. On top of all this, if you leave a tip, you get a big "Obrigado" from all the staff. For the best Big Bi's experience, try the Tangerina ao Limão juice along with the famous Bauru sandwich for a total of a mere R$13. Finish it all off with an açaí to go. Perfect. Big Bi's has a few branches dotted around Copacabana and Ipanema, one of which is on the corner of Rua Santa Clara and Rua Barata Ribeiro in Copacabana. If you then cross the road of Rua Barata Ribeiro, you will land at an exquisite ice cream parlour.

There are many specialized "health food" shops that offer an incredible variety of rich meat and vegetable sandwiches, plus an awesome variety of fruit juices, many of them delicious and usually unknown by foreigners. Among them are graviola, fruta do conde, jaca, açaí, guaraná, pitomba, mango, coconut, orange, lemon, papaya, melon, etc. (they make it as you ask and all food is 100% organic and fresh. The meal is often prepared as you wait, so you can ask them to mix whatever fruit you want and create a customized mix if you like). You must try açaí and guaraná, Amazon fruits which are famous to be the strongest energizers and anti-oxidants of the world. They also offer Brazilian snacks (including many Italian and Oriental delicacies), and other simple but delicious things to eat. I never got enough of them! These shops usually are cheap and hang many fruits at the entrance or somewhere visible to display their quality.

Warning: look for clean places, as hygiene can be poor in many street shops.

If your palate is homesick for more familiar tastes, Rio has most of world-class fast food chains (McDonald's, KFC, Domino's, Outback, and a few Subway and Pizza Hut shops) except for Burger King and International House of Pancakes. Bob's and Habib's are the biggest national fast food chains.

Many foods that in other countries are simply picked up in the hands and eaten, are either eaten with knife and fork (such as pizza) or are picked up by wrapping a napkin around the food so that it is not touched with the hands (such as sandwiches). You will undoubtedly notice napkin dispensers on the tables in most restaurants for this purpose.

Drink

Rio de Janeiro is a huge city, so all individual listings should be moved to the appropriate district articles, and this section should contain a brief overview. Please help to move listings if you are familiar with this city.


What

  • Botequim (pronounced 'boo-chi-KEEM') also well known as boteco - These quite unpretentious bars with simple appetizers and lots of ice-cold chope (draft beer) are everywhere and are almost inseparable from the carioca lifestyle. Try Bracarense (85, José Linhares street, Leblon), one of the most traditional.
  • Juice bars - Of particular note for an often hot and muggy city are the refreshing juice bars, found on nearly every corner in the city. Choose from dozens of freshly squeezed fruit juices - mix two or three fruits together or simply try the freshly squeezed orange juice. For a delicious Brazilian special try the açaí, a smoothie made from a deep purple fruit from the Amazon.
  • Caipirinha, a drink made of cachaça (a Brazilian liquor made of sugarcane juice), lime, sugar and ice cubes.

Where

  • Kiosks along the boardwalk at Copacabana and Ipanema beach stay open all night.


  • Devassa. Nine locations in Rio (and one in São Paulo), including Leblon (Rua General San Martin 1241, 021-2540-6087) and Jardim Botânico (Av. Lineu de Paula Machado 696, 021-2294-2915). Well-crafted microbrews, a tropical take of English ale styles.


Neighborhoods:

  • Lapa - A good bet for Thursdays, several bars and clubs, but the party is in the street. There you will find people dancing and playing Samba, Choro (soft rhythm with flutes and mandolin), Reggae and Hip Hop, as well as ballroom dancing (gafieira), but no Rock (except for some underground, which doesn't happen often or in the same place, but usually in some less known places of Lapa) or Pop music. While drinks are sold in the bars and clubs, vendors also roam the streets wearing coolers full of beer for even cheaper prices. It can also be a very exciting and packed place on Friday and Saturday nights. Be sure not to bring valuables, as there are a lot of pick-pockets operating in the area. Don't take it for the neighborhood with the same name in São Paulo, which is totally different.

Concerts

  • Canecao. Apart from the really big names, who perform in Maracana or on the beach, the main venue for Brazilian music and visiting stars is Canecao. This is at Av. Wenceslau Brás, 215, close to the tunnel that connects the Sugar Loaf to Copacabana. [60]
  • Bar do Tom, Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Leblon hosts lesser names, mainly performing Brazilian music.
  • Vinicius, Rua Vinicius de Moraes 39. A small bar with nightly Bossa Nova shows.[61]
  • Classical concerts are mainly performed at Sala Cecilia Meireles, Largo da Lapa 47, Lapa. [62]

Samba Clubs

Being in Rio and not going to one of the countless samba live music bars, certainly you've missed a lot on your trip. In Lapa, the nightlife district of Rio, there are many nice bars with great atmosphere where locals go for dancing and meeting people. Most of these bars work with a kind of consumption card, which is handed to you when you enter. Everything you consume is marked on this card, and losing it means you'll have to pay a really high fee of sometimes more than R$200,00! So take good care of it.

Below is a list of some of these clubs:

  • Carioca da Gema - Lapa, Rua Mem de Sá 79 - Mondays through Saturdays. Located in a nice old house from the 1900s, this place always has good samba groups playing. One of the best days is on Monday nights when on stage you can see one of the most powerful voices of samba, the singer Richah, with his group playing old carnaval songs. Fun guaranteed! For more info http://www.barcariocadagema.com.br (in portuguese)
  • Casa Rosa - Larajeiras, Rua Alice 550 - Fridays through Sundays. This place is quite special: back in the 60's, 70's and 80's it used to be a well known exclusive brothel, so that's why it is named Casa Rosa. The big pink eclectic style mansion was closed for several years and after a face-lift restoration now houses the officially known Centro Cultural Casa Rosa. Sundays are the best day to go there, especially because they do a great combination of serving the national dish of Brazil - Feijoada - with samba. There are always nice local musicians, and the atmosphere is laid back and friendly. Get there early since the music starts at 07:00pm and they stop serving the feijoada at around 9:00pm. Dress down. Entrance fees: R$25,00 including Feijoada; if you had already enough of the black beans and don't want to eat it, fee is R$20,00 after 07:00pm and R$10,00 before 07:00pm. For more info http://www.casarosa.com.br (in portuguese)

Clubbing

For those who like to go clubbing, Rio has some good options. You'll be seeing lots of flyers and talk about "raves", but those aren't the same as European ones. Usually Rio's raves are devoted to trance, which is pretty popular, especially with the upper-class youngsters, though some electronic parties do have good djs and live acts from around the world. The night in Rio is pretty much divided between mainstream and underground.

Mainstream would be such "raves" and big electronic festivals, as well a nightclubs like Bombar (Leblon and Barra da Tijuca), Baronetti (Ipanema) and Melt (Leblon) that are devoted to pop, dance and variations of house and trance. Those are not, however, places you go for the music. They are usually packed with "patricinhas" (tanned, long soft-haired girls with gym-built bodies) and specially "pitboys" (upper/middle-class boys, known for having various degrees of martial arts training and a certain tendency for violence). Yes, fights are one of the major problems with the mainstream clubbing scene in Rio. It's also fairly expensive. You'd be expecting to pay between R$30 and R$50 to get in a club (girls pay less, but all those clubs will have an f/m proportion around 1/3) and between R$50 and R$100 for a "rave" or electronic music party being held at spots like the Marina.

  • Melt (pronounced meelch by locals) - Leblon, Rua Rita Ludolf 47A - Thursdays - this 2-story club sports an upscale bar downstairs and a dance club upstairs.
  • Bombar Leblon, good club.

Though with far less options, the underground clubbing scene is more available and interesting than the mainstream. Most of the underground clubs are on Zona Sul and offer different parties for each day of the week. The underground club scene has a more diverse public, from goths to punks also with strong hedonistic tints. It's very gay-friendly and most of the parties and clubs have almost the same m/f proportion. It is also far cheaper than the mainstream clubs, with tickets starting as low as R$5 and not going further up than R$25.

  • Clandestino [63] Copacabana- Rua Barata Ribeiro, 111. A European-style underground club: dark, dungeony and has a basement with a compact dance floor. What´s cool is that every Friday is Black Friday, which is when Brazilians and foreigners get down to hip-hop, Brazilian funk and other types of "black music". A great place to meet people. International beers and mixed drinks. They´ve got rock n´roll parties called Benflogin and also eletronic partiers like LBF and Partiers Angels.
  • Fosfobox, Rua Siqueira Campos, 143 - Copacabana, [64]. "Fosfo" as it's nicknamed by the goers has a strong Saturday rock-oriented party. Young, trendy crowd with djs playing mostly indie rock, discopunk and electro-rock. After 4 am it has a more electronic after-party. Different parties happen on Fridays, but it's usually electronic, with favorite genres being electro, house and minimal. Other nights are usually more electronic also, but has had Rock parties also on Thursdays. On Tuesdays there's a dub/reggaeton party.
  • Casa da Matriz, Botafogo, [65]. Rua Henrique Novaes, 126. An 18th century house turned into a two-floor nightclub. Because the walls of the original structure are all there, it is regarded as small. It has a weekly schedule that never changes. On Fridays there's a Brazilian music party (Brazooka) which is must-go in town. On Saturdays, there's rock on the first floor, with occasional appearances by local and even foreign bands (Paradiso). On Mondays has a very indie and prestigious rock party (Maldita), though never a really crowded one (except on Holidays).
  • Dama de Ferro - Rua Vinicius de Moraes, 288 - Ipanema [66]. Electronic-only club, with two floors. Mostly has electro, minimal and house parties, with well-known DJs from Rio, Brazil and foreigners. A "must" with the electronic-loving gay community. (00), located in Gávea.

Sleep

Sunset at Arpoador, best in Rio

While Rio's fancy hotels are along the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana, there are lots of small and cheap, but clean, hotels around Flamengo and Catete.

The street in front of the strip of tourist hotels in Copacabana can be seedy, due to both garishly-dressed tourists, and a few opportunistic locals ready to take advantage of them. The apart-hotels in Ipanema are a much more pleasant alternative, being both better appointed and in a nicer neighborhood with fewer tourists.

Accommodation in the city center can be convenient for business travellers. The surrounding areas, however, are far from pleasant at night, being nearly deserted and lacking decent restaurants and leisure options. The central Santa Teresa neighbourhood, however, is quite departed from the city centre life and has plenty of pleasant bed and breakfasts and a significant nightlife.

Given Rio's rise as a fashionable destination with creative and fashion people, some hotels that cater to the design-conscious crowd have also been popping up at the most upscale neighborhoods. The city also has a large selection of apart-hotels, which provide apartment-style accommodations with kitchen facilities. Private condominium apartments can also be rented short-term at reasonable rates, and can be found on the Internet. This is probably a preferable means of finding one of these than the notes that will be passed to you by anonymous persons on the street. These apartments generally have a one-week minumum, or two weeks during Carnaval or New Years holidays.

Accommodation in Rio is probably Brazil's most expensive. There is a relative shortage of hotel rooms on the cheaper range and booking in advance is recommended. Moreover, prices for most accommodation can more than triple during New Year's and Carnival. Those are very busy periods and booking well in advance is recommended. Note that most hotels in tourist areas will only sell 4-day packages and charge in advance - even if you want to stay only for a couple of days during those events. Other than those, the busiest month is January - summer holidays in Brazil.

Motels, that you will see mainly on the outskirts of the city, are not motels in the American sense. Rather, they are places you go with your lover for a few hours. One famous motel, overlooking the Sheraton in Leblon, was taken over by the US Secret Service when George Bush Snr stayed at the Sheraton. It is not recorded whether heart-shaped beds, mirrors on the ceiling and on-tap porno movies affected their work!

Budget

If hostel life is more your style, they are easy to find in Rio. The more expensive ones boast locations that are short walking distance to either Ipanema or Copacabana beach. However if you prefer to stay in Lapa, Glória, Catete, and Botafogo, there are many other choices available. Hostelling has become increasingly popular in Brazil, and many of them are located at walking distance from hot spots. Beware, however, not to be taken to any fraudulent scheme - you might end up being robbed. Look for accredited places with Youth Hostelling International and similar franchises.

  • Walk On The Beach Hostel at Rua Dias da Rocha, 85 - +5521.25457500 - Walk on the Beach Hostel is located in a quiet and safe area hidden inside Rio's most exciting spot: Copacabana. The hostel is just a few steps away from shops, restaurants, cafés, buses, metro and the fantastic Copacabana Beach. They provide low-priced rooms and the facilities you need, all in a nice and cozy environment where you can relax at the lounge or party at the bar. ().
  • CabanaCopa Hostel at Travessa Guimarães Natal, 12 - +5521.39889912 - Located 3 blocks from the beach, 1 block from the metro station Arcoverde and next to a beautiful natural park, CabanaCopa is a brand new, unique hostel in Rio de Janeiro. A large colonial house, fully renovated in the safest part of Copacabana, with clean and spacious ensuite dorms, excellent social areas and a friendly and helpful staff. ().
  • Casa Carioka Rio Hostel at Rua Emilio Berla, 180 - +5521.37342235 - Casa Carioka is a hostel for backpackers and travellers in Copacabana, located 4 blocks from the beach and 2 blocks from Cantagalo Metro station. It's run by a fellow backpacker who knows what you need, what you're interested in and where you need to be to get the most out of your time in Rio de Janeiro. Breakfast, kitchen, laundry, WiFi, security lockers and hot showers are all provided. Tours can also be arranged to all the main tourist attractions. Casa Carioka Rio Hostel (Hostel in Rio de Janeiro), Rua Emilio Berla, 180 (Near Cantagalo Metro station), +55 (21) 3734 2235 (), [67]. (,Rio de Janeiro Hostel)
  • Che Lagarto Copacabana [68] at Rua Anita Garibaldi, 87 - +5521.22562776 - Another hostel a mere three blocks from the beach, this branch of Che Lagarto is nearly faultless. The staff are incredible and the atmosphere is "party if you want to"; as opposed to the "party" hostels where you can get no sleep, this place allows you to sleep even when others are partying! The facilities are excellent with good internet, Wi-Fi, a decent bar and an interesting pool table. The dorms are of an excellent standard and get cleaned everyday by possibly the best cleaning team in South America. The private rooms are of an absolutely exceptional standard, but are quite a bit more expensive. Discounts are offered for long stays and also for future stays in any Che Lagarto hostel. Security is good too. But as previously mentioned, the greatest asset is the staff who are so helpful that it is untrue!
  • Stone of a Beach http://www.hostels-rio.com/ Adress: Rua Barata Ribeiro 111 - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro" directions="One block next to Copacabana bech and Cardeal Arco Verde train station " phone="+55 (21) 32 09 03 48" Stone of a Beach is the place to be in Rio. It can arrange any tour or trip you want for you for great prices, has big, airy rooms and great common areas, is staffed with very cool young people, and knows everything that is going on. They have amazing New Year's and Carnaval events, as well as their own cool bar next door where they have live music. Not just another hostel, Stone of a Beach is unique, fun, safe, clean, and your ticket to a great time in Rio de Janeiro!
  • Albergues Rio [69] El Misti Hostel, Praia de Botafogo, 462, casa 9, Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro (Two block west of Botafogo Beach), +55 (21) 22 26 09 91 (), [70].
  • Rio Hostel El Misti Copacabana [71]El Misti Hostel Rio de Janeiro (Rio de Janeiro Hostel), Travessa Frederico Pamplona, 20 (Next of Hospital Sao Lucas), +55 (21) 2547 0800 (), [72]. El Misti Hostel Rio de Janeiro - Hostel & Pousada in Copacabana - Brasil. Free pickup Aeroport, Safe área, Fun, Dorms from $11, Great Breakfast. Te.+55 21 2547 0800 U$11. (,Rio de Janeiro Hostel)

Mid range

  • Rio Apartments, Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50, Loja B - Copacabana, tel. +55 (21) 2522 1259, Amerioca Rio Apartments. Lots of great furnished vacation rental apartments with 24 hour security, hi speed internet, very close to the beach, transportation, and nightlife.
  • Rio Apartments, Rua Praia de Botafogo 462 casa 9 - Copacabana, tel. +55 (21) 22 26 63 68, contato@rioflatrental.com, [73]. Offers a wide range of furnished apartments with 24 hours security and located in areas that provide easy access to local transportation as well as being close to beaches.


  • Santa Teresa is a nice option for accommodation in Rio. Casa 579 [74] is a beautiful mansion house with spectacular views and an amazing roof terrace with 180 degree views to Christ the Redeemer and Sugar Loaf Mountain and just minutes from the famous Santa Teresa Tram. Casa Beleza [75] is another guest house in a charming exotic historic mansion with tropical gardens and swimming pool. Both are typical of the kind of accommodation you will find in Santa Teresa.
  • Rio Apartments - Brazil , Copacabana and Ipanema, [76],[77]. Many apartments for rent in Rio de Janeiro, in Copacabana area and Ipanema. You can find the best solutions, just a few meters from the sea.
  • Aurélio Rio Guide - Rio de Janeiro Apartment Rentals - Copacabana, Ipanema & Leblon, [78], [79]. Offers a wide range of beautiful apartments for rent in Copacabana, Ipanema and leblon, the safest and most famous districts of Rio de Janeiro with 24 hours security and arrange also Tours around the City.

Splurge

Most luxury hotels are in Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon.


  • Porto Bay Rio Internacional, Av. Atlântica, 1500 - Copacabana - Right on Copacabana beach in the spectacular city of Rio de Janeiro, the Porto Bay Rio Internacional Hotel offers the best of two worlds – the magnificent city and a breathtaking view over the beach, right at your feet. (Copacabana Beach), +55 21 2546-8000 (, fax: +55 21 2542-5443), [80]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00.
  • Pestana Rio Atlantica Hotel, Avenida Atlântica 2964 Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro 22070-000 - Brasil, +55 (21) 254 86 332 (, fax: +55 (21) 225 56 410), [81].
  • Copacabana Palace Hotel, Avenida Atlântica, 1702, Copacabana, +55 (21)2548-7070 (, fax: +55 (21)2235-7330), [82].
  • JW Marriott Hotel Rio de Janeiro, Avenida Atlântica, 2600, Copacabana. The newest hotel in Copacabana, the JW Marriott Hotel has deservedly earned popularity in recent years. A favorite among business and leisure travelers alike, Reservations: +55 (21)2545-6500 (fax: +55 (21)2545-6555), [83].
  • Fasano, Avenida Vieira Souto, 80, Ipanema, tel. 21 3202-4000. [84]
  • Hotel Sofitel, Avenida Atlântica, 4240, Copacabana, +55 (21)2525-1232 (, fax: +55 (21)2525-1200), [85].
  • Hotel Marina Palace, Av. Delfim Moreira, 630, Leblon, +55 (21)2172-1001 (fax: +55 (21)2172-1010), [86].
  • Marina all Suites Hotel, Av. Delfim Moreira, 696 Leblon - Rio de Janeiro. The Marina All Suites is the only deluxe boutique hotel in Rio. Top contemporary designers beautifully decorated it. A unique hotel that attracts acclaimed guests of the world of music and cinema. The Restaurant: the hottest spot of the famous and trendy. Here you can mingle with famous Brazilian musicians. The health club and pool on the roof top has fantastic views. Everything at this hotel is aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Location: The hotel is situated in front of the beach of Leblon south end of Ipanema.
  • Caesar Park Hotel, Avenida Vieira Souto, 460, Ipanema, +55 (21)3906-8999, [87].
  • Porto Bay Rio Internacional, Av. Atlântica, 1500 - Copacabana - Right on Copacabana beach in the spectacular city of Rio de Janeiro, the Porto Bay Rio Internacional Hotel offers the best of two worlds – the magnificent city and a breathtaking view over the beach, right at your feet. (Copacabana Beach), +55 21 2546-8000 (, fax: +55 21 2542-5443), [88]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 12:00.

Health

It is strongly recommend that you take out comprehensive travel insurance that will cover any overseas medical costs, before you depart. Confirm that your insurance covers you for the whole time you'll be away and check what circumstances and activities are not included in your policy. Remember, regardless of how healthy and fit you are, if you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel.

Your doctor or travel clinic is the best source of information about preventive measures, immunisations (including booster doses of childhood vaccinations) and disease outbreaks overseas. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides information for travellers and our 'Travelling Well' brochure also provides useful tips for travelling with medicines and staying healthy while overseas.

The standard of private medical facilities in large cities such as Sao Paulo, Campinas, Rio and Curitiba is comparable to First World Countries. Treatment at private clinics and hospitals is very expensive. Doctors and hospitals may expect cash payment prior to providing medical services, including for emergency care.

HIV/AIDS is a significant risk in Brazil as in any country. You should exercise appropriate precautions if engaging in activities that expose you to risk of infection. You can find out more information at the World Health Organization website.

Stay safe

Rio by night: Baía da Guanabara seen from Urca mountain.

It is important to note that while the following information may panic you and also make you question whether to go or not to Rio, most visitors to the city have a great time with no incidents. Still, Rio can be dangerous. As a traveler, even if you don't leave the "Zona Sul" (which include Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, Gávea, Jardim Botânico, Flamengo, Laranjeiras, Botafogo, Urca) or Western Suburbs (Barra, Recreio), you'll still experience a palpable tension over security. In February during the Carnival, there were two consecutive armed robberies on tourist youth hostels with the first being in Zona Sul's Copacabana. Generally, tourists (gringos) and teenagers are considered "easy" targets for criminals. Day-to-day living has also been affected by this for example regular banks all have fortress style security doors and armed security men. Rio can be a dangerous city and it is wise to follow these rules even if they seem over exaggerated. It's better to be safe than sorry. In order to fully enjoy your trip the traveler should pay attention to simple things. Avoid the downtown area, especially Saara, after dark. Although downtown is a relatively safe place during the day, after dark all the people who work there have already gone home. If you are going to a theater or a show, it's all right; but do not wander in those dark streets by night. Go to Ipanema beach, all lighted and policed during the night, though it's not entirely safe for tourists that look obviously like tourists at any time. Never go to Copacabana beach at night, you may get robbed. After midnight, you probably want to stay off Avenue Atlantica in general as there will only be prostitutes and beggars out at those times. Also, avoid Avenue Atlantica in front of the Praça Lido park, 3 blocks NE of the Copacabana Palace Hotel. This is the only block without any businesses, making muggings far more likely. Try walking on the beach side, or even better, detour inland. Sunday is a particular day since most shops are closed and their security guards are absent, this means that the neighbourhood Centro is not safe daytime and also that even the bigger streets in Copacabana are less safe after dark, the beach walk is probably the best option. Should you find yourself being mugged, the normal advice applies: Don't resist or do anything to aggravate the muggers. Try not to stare in their faces, as they might think you are memorizing their appearance. Eyes to the ground is probably your best bet. Let them take anything they want (keep your arms limp). Afterwards, leave the scene quickly but calmly (don't run in panic screaming for the police). If possible, and not more dangerous, don't leave in the same direction that the muggers went.

When in downtown during the rush hour, be aware of pickpockets as in any other big city center. The difference in Rio is that the pickpocket can often be a bit violent: one of them pushing you forward in the bus or to the ground in the street while another one takes your wallet and runs away. It's not that usual or as bad as it sounds, but try to avoid being in real danger by reacting strongly as these guys often operate in armed groups (2-5 people), some unnoticed by you.

Still in the city center (but also in other parts of the city) you will see lots of people called camelôs in small tables or simply on the ground trying to sell all sort of things like cheap small electronic devices, wallets, purses, pirated software, music and films. People do buy some of these stuff as they can be amazingly cheap, but be aware that most of these camelôs are illegally selling on the street and often the police will try to expel them. You may see lots of them packing their goods and quickly running away right before the police arrives. Be aware... this moment can be a chaos !

On weekends, beaches in Rio are watched by helicopters.

In the area around Copacabana beach (and maybe in the city center) the tourist should be aware of a shoe shining scam. The tourist will be approached by a shoeshiner and to his astonishment discover a large, dirty blot on his shoes (which is actually shoe polish or mustard, but looks like quite something else). The tourist is typically shown to a chair and has his shoes or sandals cleaned in the best manner. Only after this service is rendered, the outrageous price of somewhere around R$1000 or more is revealed. At this point, muscular friends of the shoeshiner typically appear to "oversee" the completion of the transaction. If you are approached by a shoe shiner, you should shout or state loudly "NO" and walk quickly past. Swearing in your native tongue could also act as a deterrent. Should you be so unlucky as to have been put in a position where you cannot prevent having your shoes cleaned, it will be of some relief to you that the price can often be haggled down to a level suited to the size of your wallet.

The subway is fairly safe, so it is recommended to use it if you want to go from one place to another. Although you may be used to taking the handy and good trains in Europe or even in North America to go across many places, you won't need to take a train in Rio. If you do, it can be a fairly nice trip to the suburbs or a chaotic journey to a bad neighborhood in a train where people sell all kinds of weird stuff, where everyone will look at you in a way you will feel you are a alien, about to be mugged. Buses on the South Zone are fairly safe as well but in the city center they can be quite crowded. Inside a bus, being mugged is always a threat: smaller in the South and tourist zones, but is a threat. Always remember that Bus 174 movie. It happens more often that you may imagine. So often that they don't even go to the news (only weird and big cases where the police got involved such as this Bus 174 go to the news). In the subway, it is quite unlikely though! One extra point to the subway.

Don't walk around with lots of money in your pocket. ATM's are everywhere (prefer the ones inside shopping centers) and credit/debit cards are widely accepted. But don't walk around without any money: you may need something to give to the bad guys in case you are mugged. Not having money to give a mugger can be dangerous as they may get aggravated and resort to violence. An excellent idea is to buy a "capanga" (literally meaning bodyguard), that is, a small frontal unisex pouch, normally used to carry your wallet, checks, money and car keys.

Avoid wearing jewelry or other signs of wealth (iPods, fancy cell phones/mobiles, digital cameras, ect.) if possible, at any time of the day as these attract attention. Thieves have been known to run past targets and tear off necklaces, rings, and earrings without stopping. Earrings are particularly dangerous as tearing them off often harms the owner.

There are around 700 favelas in the city and most of them can potentially be unsafe in Rio: and there is always one near you (by a couple of miles or just a few yards). These are easily recognized by their expansive brick walls, and are often on a hillside. The slums grew from being impoverished neighborhoods but are now large areas ruled by drug lords. If you want to keep your nice vision of Rio, you don't need to go there. However, some favelas are amazingly huge, and a new experience for some -- there are some travel agencies who take people on tours there. If you want to go, pay one of those agencies. Never, NEVER go to a favela by yourself, or with an unknown guide. The tour operators have "safe-conduct pacts" with the local drug dealers. If you don't have one, you'll be in BIG trouble. You'll most likely be approached by the drug baron's guards and asked what you are doing there (and these guys typically don't speak English). If you don't have a good reason (and you probably don't), the consequences could be dire. Don't count on the police to help you, as they don't like to enter the favela either, except in special circumstances, though most likely they will check if you are carrying any drugs upon leaving the favela.

In Brazil, every state has two police forces: the Civil (Polícia Civil) and Military (Polícia Militar). Only the latter wear uniform (in Rio, it is navy blue). The city of Rio also has an unarmed Civil Guard, dressed in khaki. Policemen can usually be trusted, but corruption in Brazil is still rampant and a few officers may try to extort you or demanding a little bribe. When this happens, it is usually very subtle, and the officer may typically say something about "some for the beer" (cervejinha). If you are not willing, refuse and ask for another officer. Don't ever try to bribe a policeman on your own - most of them are honest and you might end up in jail.

The local emergency dial number is 190.

At night, especially after traffic has died-down you may hear what sounds like fireworks and explosions. This is not as menacing as it sounds, though it is still indicative of somebody up to no good. These are often firecrackers set-off as signals in the favelas. It might mean that a drug shipment has arrived and is in-transit, or that the police are making a raid into the favela. It is a signal to gang operatives who act as lookouts and surrogate police to be extra-vigilant. However, real shoot-outs may occur, especially on weekends. If you are on the street and you hear a shooting, find shelter in the nearest shop or restaurant.

For your safety, cross at the crosswalks - not closer to the corner - and watch for cars regardless of traffic lights.

You will notice that cariocas (Rio residents) avoid stopping at the traffic lights after dark, especially at small roads. This is because the boys selling candies and other goods may be something simply annoying... or some of them may be there to mug/rob you. Therefore, you will also notice that most cariocas drive with all the windows shut and doors locked, despite the usually warm weather. Air conditioner is therefore a must and you will probably not see a single convertible car: it is too expensive for a regular Brazilian citizen and even though one could buy such a car, it is again a sign of wealth, which is to be avoided even by locals.

Carjacking can be a threat too, especially if you are outside the tourist areas and after dark. It is perfectly acceptable (but not exactly legal) not to stop in the traffic lights if there is nobody else on the street and you feel it's okay to go (no other cars). You will even see police doing this. Some major motorways such as Linha Amarela (Yellow Line: connects the west zone(Barra da Tijuca) to the north zone - may be your way to Norte Shopping for example) and Linha Vermelha (Red Line - the main connection from the International Airport) are strongly avoided late at night. Both motorways are surrounded by favelas so carjacking is usual and shoot-outs may occur between rival drug lords or between drug lords and the police. If you rented a car, be aware of all these issues. As a tourist, it may be better not to rent one anyway, as if you get lost and go to a bad neighbourhood (and again, there will always be one near you) you will most likely be in trouble.

If you want to go to a traditional escola de samba (samba school), Mangueira is a good place. This is close to a favela, so you should go with a guide accordingly. If you do have a trustful Brazilian friend that can take you, that's excellent. Ask him/her to take you to Maracanã as well to watch a football (soccer) match! Yet exercise great caution if you go by yourself especially if two of the local Rio teams are playing (Flamengo, Fluminense, Botafogo and Vasco). These matches can be very exciting but also very dangerous especially if between Flamengo and Botafogo or Vasco. If it looks like your team (your team is whoever the fans around you are cheering for) is losing, it is wise to leave the stadium before the match ends. You don't want to be in the middle of a very angry bunch of football fans when they all cram out of the stadium.

Get out

  • Niteroi - The ferry between Rio and Niteroi, a city across the bay, is a pleasant and cheap trip (as of December 2006, R$ 2.10). There are a couple of kinds of boats, ranging from very cheap and slow (called barca) to fairly cheap and fast (called catamarã, catamaran). Niteroi does not have many tourist attractions, but it does have a wonderful unique view of Rio and an intriguing contemporary art museum [89], which looks like a flying saucer jutting out over the sea (designed by famous architect Oscar Niemeyer). Also, it has one of the state's most beautiful beaches, Itacoatiara, which can be reached by the bus numbered 38.
  • Búzios is a small peninsula about three hours east of Rio. It has several beaches, lots of places to stay and an abundance of night clubs.
  • Angra dos Reis and Ilha Grande. Angra is surrounded by 365 islands, the largest being Ilha Grande, a pretty island and former penal colony with beautiful beaches and good hiking. Angra is 2-3 hours from Rio by car and it is a one-hour boat ride from there to Ilha Grande.
  • Paraty - One hour south of Angra, this is a fully-conserved 18th-century colonial town by the ocean, hidden by tall jungle-covered mountains which used to be a hideout for pirates after the Portuguese ships; a must-see for people interested in History and Culture; also good for Rainforest hiking and kayaking.
  • Paqueta -- Though not exactly outside of Rio, because it is an island and can only be reached by a 70 minutes ferry ride, this district of Rio makes an excellent (and inexpensive) day trip.
  • Petrópolis - In the mountains outside Rio. A good place to cool down when Rio becomes too hot.
  • Praia do Abricó [90] The best public naturist beach around Rio, located in Grumari, right after Prainha. Facilities and telephone service are quite limited, so plan ahead.
  • Teresópolis - Another mountain town, near Petrópolis.
Routes through Rio de Janeiro
VitóriaNiterói  N noframe S  MangaratibaSantos


This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!




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