Phnom Penh is the capital and largest city of Cambodia. Despite its reputation as a 'rough' city, Phnom Penh is easy to get around and is a great introduction to Cambodia.
For western visitors, even those who have visited other Asian cities, Phnom Penh can be a bit of a shock. It can be very hot and (in the dry season) dusty, its infrastructure is lacking, and it is a very poor city - much poorer than, for example, Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), and Manila. In the past the visitor who could not adjust to rubbish filled streets and large numbers of beggars could give Phnom Penh a miss.
But things are changing. The infrastructure is improving rapidly - fewer power outages, streets are paved, rubbish is collected more frequently - and the city retains much of the beauty that made it a Paris of the east before 1970. Beautiful wide boulevards, fine colonial architecture and a parklike riverfront with cafés and restaurants aplenty help make Phnom Penh a worthwhile destination. Not necessarily for its standard tourist sights, which are few. But as a place to relax, watch the streetlife and absorb local color Phnom Penh rates very high among Asian cities. The beggars are still there, along with a great number of street kids and kids selling tourist paraphernalia, but this is most visible in heavily touristed areas. And generally the touts and kids are less aggressive and persistent than say their Indian or Vietnamese counterparts.
Those who find themselves struggling with Phnom Penh's current state should recall the terrible times the city has been through in recent decades. In 1975 it was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then U.S.-backed government and the Khmer Rouge, and after it fell to the Khmer Rouge, it was completely emptied of civilians and allowed to crumble for the next four years. Most of the already small class of skilled professionals were murdered or driven into exile. The city fell to the Vietnamese Army in 1979, but the new Cambodian government had no money to spend on urban improvement until the peace settlement of 1992.
As Cambodia's economy has recovered a new rich class has arisen in Phnom Penh, and a crop of new hotels and restaurants has opened to accommodate them and the tourist trade; as yet however there's very little in between the extremely rich and the extremely poor. But here too there are changes in the wind; take a trip to the green-domed Sorya mall and you're transported to the consumerist world to which the emerging middle and upper classes aspire.
All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered, although some major thoroughfares have names as well. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north-south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbers run west-east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g. the west side of the Boeung Kak lake).
House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially in a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number in the same street.
International flights: US$25
Domestic flights: US$6
Both must be paid in US dollars cash. In theory, you can pay by credit card, but the option is usually unavailable.
Phnom Penh International Airport (IATA: PNH | ICAO: VDPP) - previously "Pochentong" - is the largest of Cambodia's two international airports (the other is at Siem Reap). There are daily flights from all major regional airports (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Taipei) as well as from Luang Prabang in Laos. Airlines include Bangkok Airways, Lao Aviation, Shanghai Airlines, Thai Airways, Silk Air, Dragon Air, among others. Malaysian low-cost carrier Air Asia has daily flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. The new terminal is a thoroughly pleasant and modern facility, and features a post office, bank (including ATMs), restaurants, duty-free shop, newsstand, tourist help desk, and business center.
The airport is about 11km from the city centre (Sisowath Quay). Taxis from the public taxi stand at the airport cost a flat US$7. Pay the fare at the taxi desk inside the door exiting the terminal, at which point you will be allocated a driver. Alternatively, you will find plenty of drivers immediately outside the exit from the terminal building. For visitors on a budget without a lot of luggage, it's worth catching an official moto for US$2, or walking out to the main road to save even more.
There are bus services to Phnom Penh from Poipet (on the border with Thailand) and from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam (US$8-10, 5-6 hours), as well as from points throughout Cambodia. Two of the largest bus companies, Sorya (formerly Ho Wah Genting) and GST, both arrive and depart from the rather chaotic "station" at the southwest corner of the Central Market. Capitol Tours runs buses throughout Cambodia and onward to Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, where they link up with Vietnam travel giant Sinh Cafe. Advance bookings are advisable, and can also be sorted out by most travel agents and guesthouses for a token fee.
Many travellers arriving from Thailand break their journey with a detour to Siem Reap, site of the ruins of Angkor. Most buses depart from/to Siem Reap in the early morning, a few more follow around noon; the journey takes about 5 hours. There are also frequent services to Sihanoukville. Basic air-con bus fares start around US$3-4; double-deckers with comfy seats, toilets, drink, food and bus-hostess charge up to US$10.
Ferries connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and usually take 4-5 hours; tickets for foreigners typically cost US$20-30. Many (but not all) of these ferries offer the option of sitting on the roof, which makes for a much more scenic, albeit less comfortable ride than the bus; take sunblock, a hat, and enough water to last you for several hours just in case the boat gets stuck.
Fast boats leave every morning around 8am from Chau Doc in Vietnam's Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. The boats make the return journey the same day and leave Phnom Penh around 1 PM arriving in Chau Doc in the early evening.
There is a very slow, once-weekly passenger train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.
Phnom Penh to Battambang - Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
Battambang to Phnom Penh - Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00
Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape; however other streets and footpaths are often rutted and pot-holed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motos, sleeping people, livestock and building materials. Many smaller streets either lack signage or bear misleading signs, however, Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating the city is not difficult if you know where you're going.
Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) are available for rent, however traffic is chaotic and public transport may be safer for casual visitors.
Motorbike-taxis (motodops/motodups in local parlance) are ubiquitous and will take you anywhere for a small fare. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel (50 US cents). Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger.
Taxis are available at a few locations - most notably outside the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay. Taxis do not have meters, and fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary, due to fluctuating fuel prices; ask hotel/guesthouse staff for assistance (hotels and guesthouses will organise taxis on request).
Tuk-tuks Cambodian-style consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a scenic experience of the city. Their clientele is exclusively tourists, and most drivers speak some English. A innercity trip costs about 2 Dollar.
Cyclos are three-wheeled cycle-rickshaws. Considerably slower then a motodop, and gradually becoming less common in the city, they are still popular with locals and foreigners alike. The nature of the seat lends itself to a quick and easy way to transport all manner of goods from one place to another, even other cyclos and the occasional motorbike as well.
Walking can be a challenge, as cars and motos do not stop for pedestrians. To cross safely, judge gaps in the traffic and proceed with care - give oncoming vehicles ample time to see and avoid you, or try to cross with the brightly coloured and revered monks. There is almost no street lighting off the major boulevards, and walking at night is not recommended.
Sisowath Quay as seen from FCC
Sisowath Quay is an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap, and is fronted by a pleasant park. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is extremely popular with tourists and expat Westerners. The esplanade along the river is equally popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the Royal Palace (or rather, at the river-front park opposite the Palace), and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. See A Stroll on Sisowath Quay for a self-guided tour.
The Royal Palace and the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed 11:00-14:00, when all sensible Cambodians take a nap. Entrance fee is US$6.25 (25000 riel) for both. No extra fee for camera. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts for a token 1000 riel (plus US$1 deposit) at the entrance.
The National Museum (opposite the Royal Palace; admission US$3). Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. Main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in mediation pose. Unfortunately, no photos may be taken. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but alas (?), the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002.
Wat Phnom (admission US$1) is on a hill at the center of a small park near Sisowath Quay, on St. 94. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than what you'll see there today, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you've left unattended. If you like, take a ride on the elephant there. His owner is kind of inventory of Wat Phnom and always nice to tourists.
Independence and Liberation memorials - impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal.
Tuol Sleng Prison
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) (Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-300-698, fax 855-23-210-358)  was a school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields south of Phnom Penh; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs. For a introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's "Voices from S-21" (ISBN 0520222474). Documentary movie "S-21" can be purchased throughout Phnom Penh for $1.50 or $2.00
* The Documentation Center of Cambodia (66 Preah Sihanouk Blvd. P.O. Box 1110 Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-211-875, fax 855-23-210-358)  manages the museum as part of its mission to record the history of the Khmer Rouge and gather evidence, should any Khmer Rouge leaders ever be brought to trial.
The Killing Fields
The Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek (Entrance fee US$2), about 17km south of Phnom Penh, is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place.
Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump, . Where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over the refuse hoping to find anything of value. A certain type of tourist visits this place - if it's you, make sure you stop by the NGO "Pour sourire un enfant" , which helps the children of this place, and make a donation.
Khmer massage, 3 USD for 1 hour @ Apsara - 13 Ph. 63 (0900-2100hrs, 7 days a week). Tel.: 092 294 024. Beware: although the price had an official quote in English, you may have to bargain to get the real price. Offers the local Khmer massage -- a relaxing form distantly related to Thai massage. The massage environment is extremely cosy and you will even get a free platter of fruit after your massage is over.
Thunder Ranch is a shooting range near Cheoung Ek. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious to the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is probably no longer the case. Prices range from US$30 for an AK-47 to US$200 for a rocket launcher.
As elsewhere in Cambodia, transactions are made in US dollars and in Cambodian riel, and only upmarket places will accept plastic (normally with a 3 percent surcharge). Take lots of low denomination US notes - notes above US$20 can be difficult to change. In place of coins you will get back riel, at a set exchange rate of 4000 to the dollar. There are a number of international ATM machines dispensing US currency around the city, including the Sisowath Quay tourist strip and in Sorya Market. They are working also with international maestro cards
Popular tourist buys include Cambodian silk, local silverware, traditional handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes.
The Art Deco dome of the Central Market
Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei - "New Market") is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. Sorya Mall, currently Phnom Penh's main Western-style mall, is nearby - less colourful that the traditional markets, but it is air-conditioned and contains a range of cheap fast-food outlets as well as a well-stocked supermarket named Lucky Supermarket. If looking for Sorya, go SOUTH of the Central Market. It's on a north-south street on the west side. Asking anyone in the Central Market will be futile, however they DO understand "Sorya".
Russian Market (Cambodian "Psar Toul Tom Poung" - it gained the "Russian Market" moniker following the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s, but many motodops are not familiar with the name) offers the opportunity to buy fake designer clothing, fake swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.
Street 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.
Colours of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Handicrafts from around the country.
Kravan House, #13 St. 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.
Stef's Happy Painting, Sisowath Quay (near St. 178, directly under FCC), . Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions.
Antiques dealers in Phnom Penh are an unscrupulous lot and may sell goods that theoretically should not be exported from Cambodia. See Heritage Watch  for listings of bad apples. For better or worse, however, most of the "antiques" being sold are fake.
Hidden Treasures, #9 Street 148, has antiques, art and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby South-East Asian cultures.
Monument Books,  #111 Norodom Boulevard (near Independence Monument), has a focus on books about and from Cambodia, like Angkor Wat, Khmer Rouge Regime, Cambodia history in many languages. They support cambodian publishers.
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats you won't find elsewhere in the country. Many of these include French-influenced dining as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and modern takes on traditional Cambodian dishes. The standard pizza-banana pancake-fried rice backpacker fare is also always easy to find.
The best area to wander is along the riverfront where everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros can be found. Take great care eating from stalls, however. Peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked should be regarded with suspicion.
Take the cross river ferry to sit on mats and eat cheap hawker food while watching the sunset over the city.
California 2 Cafe and Guesthouse 317 Sisowath on the riverfront is where expats and travellers cross paths. Here information is king. Local free travel guides and magazines are available for tourist. Ice cold beer is the cheapest on the riverfront, and the none of the menu items exceed five dollars. Specialty Baja Fish Tacos. 7AM-ish to 10:30PM.
Jungle Bar and Grill, 273B Sisowath Quay, next to Riverside Bistro, has a varied international menu at very reasonable prices and a great happy hour. Free Internet and a great music selection.
La Croisette, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 144, is a French sidewalk café that's open all day.
Setsara Thai Restaurant, #3D Street 278, is a very nice little Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.
Bali Café, 379 Sisowath Quay, has pretty good Indonesian food. Try the Tahu Telur (Fried Tofu with Eggs). Be careful ordering water or you'll get the small plastic bottle of Evian - at US$3!
Cafe Yejj, #170 Street 450, offers sidewalk seating and indoor seating both ground level and second floor. Reasonably-priced pasta, panini, burritos and local (Cambodian food). Particiaptes in breaking the cycle of poverty by training women-at-risk as employees. Service very good. VERY clean bathroom upstairs. Most dishes less than $4.00 Located at the southeast corner of the Russian Market, less than 50 feet east of the corner of Streets 155 & 450. Sit inside if you do not want to be bothered by beggars. (October 2007)
Equinox on Street 278 (near Street 51) has now opened a pretty good restaurant. Pizzas, baguettes, burgers, pastas and some more western specialities on the menu. Great indoor outdoor ambiance. Meat and salads come from a local organization who encourage and teach farmers in organic growing methods.
Friends Restaurant, #215 Street 13 (50m north of the National Museum) is run by and for a non-profit that rehabilitates Cambodia's street children, and does delicious international tapas and main dishes. Closed for renovations as of September 30, 2007. No indication when it will re-open.
Frizz restaurant, #335, Sisowath Quay  has traditional Cambodian cuisine, and also operates the Cambodia Cooking Class.
Garden Center Café, #23 Street 57  is a garden setting café/restaurant that's popular with local ex-pats.
Khmer Surin, #11 Street 57 (south of Sihanouk Boulevard) is a rather romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.
Lazy Gecko, #23B Street 93, Boeung Kak Lake, does a REALLY good hamburger, and a percentage of their profits go to Janine's Childrens Orphanage.
Le Duo, Street 322 (between Monivong and Street 63) has excellent Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pastas and pizzas.
Metro Café, on the corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 148 (opposite Riverside Bistro), is a stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from US$1 and a great steak (about US$12).
Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel) tel 023 990 373; is pleasant and has fun and refreshing Bubble Tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.
Riverside Bistro, #273a Sisowath Quay  occupies an old colonial style building and features comfortable outdoor dining with brilliant views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists and local affluent Khmers. Try Khmer's "root of lotus".
102, 1A, St. 102 (one block south of Le Royal), tel. 023-990-880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations recommended. US$30.
FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club), 363 Sisowath Quay. Modern colonial-style charm, superb views of the river and is a favourite expat hang-out that does particularly good desserts. Their signature cocktails, Tonle Sap Breezer and Burmese Rum Sour (US$4.50 each), are also worth a quaff.
Le Bistrot, #4D, Street 29 - French and Italian in an old villa.
Xiang Palace (Hotel Intercontinental) Chinese - expensive fine dining, dim sum.
Most of the time, Phnom Penh bars and clubs are safe enough and a lot of fun - however, some of the more "hip" places are popular with the notorious local "elite" youth (and their minders) who carry firearms and other weapons, and who are allowed to pass through so-called "security" checks without being searched.
Places to hang out after dark include Street 104, Street 278, and Street 108 around the Street 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses.
Barbados, south of Street 104 near the river, is a hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.
California 2 Cafe and Guesthouse 317 Sisowath on the riverfront is where expats and travellers cross paths. Here information is king. Local free travel guides and magazines are available for tourist. Travelling off the beaten path, Jim the owner or many of his motorcyling enthusiast visitors have covered the country corner to corner. Ice cold beer is the cheapest on the riverfront but it closes at 10:30PM.
DV8 Bar & Guesthouse on Street 148 (near the riverfront) is a popular hostess bar with a good selection of spirits and a pool table on the 2nd floor - great if you're a single guy. Good accommodation on the premises.
Elephant Bar, Raffles Le Royal. The classy bar at the classiest hotel in town, with frescos on the ceiling and live piano in the evenings. Try the Femme Fatale, a mix of cognac and champagne dreamed up for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967. Expensive.
Elsewhere on Street 51 is an ex-pat hang-out with platform seating surrounding a small pool, in a French colonial villa. Big party first Friday of every month, when the place is packed.
Equinox on Street 278 (near Street 51) is a cocktail bar featuring paintings by local artist Soumey and photo exhibits by Isabelle Lesser, gaming room with a pool table and the unique bonzini foosball table of Phnom Penh, cool tunes, good food. Increasingly popular with expats.
Golden Vine on street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge. Hostess bar with pole dancing and good food. Sunday roast recommended.
Heart of Darkness has long been the most infamous nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron was shot to death but is now back in business. Some seating is reserved for well-heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local youth, so move if you are asked. While certainly not the safest place in the world, more nights go by without incident than not. A number of expats avoid it now, however. Saturday nights are always packed.
Martini Pub & Disco on Street 95 (one block off Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station) is an infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, food US$2-6, burgers & fries, pizza, Asian dishes, gaming room, disco, outdoor big-screen showing movies or sports. There some copycat Martini bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this is the original. A place for single men and loose ladies.
Monsoon Wine Bar on Street 104 is an intimate, cosy wine bar. Try a glass of wine from the well-chosen international wine list or nibble on something from the small but excellent Pakistani menu. Chilled vibe, cool tunes, friendly service.
OneZeroFour Bar on Street 104 is a popular low-key hostess bar. The bar has a good range of single malt whiskeys.
Pit Stop on Street 51 is a popular hostess bar.
Rubies on Street 240 is a wine bar favoured by young ex-pats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.
Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, #126 Street 130, Phnom Penh  Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Located upstairs on the first floor above street level, Sharky's boasts a large space, huge center bar, outside balcony, and plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah". It's about three 1/2 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market).
Sugar Shack on Sothearos (the street in front of the National Museum and Palace) is a classy little hostess bar featuring a nice selection of wines, champagnes and single malts.
VooDoo Lounge on Street 51 near street 108 is a new bar with a great range of drinks, nice decor, air-con, happy hostesses, and a pool table. Two other hostess bars nearby.
Walkabout on Street 51 has food and good pool tables. Many freelance girls congregate here. Popular after hours bar, also has rooms available. Open 24 hours.
Zanzibar on Street 104 is high energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, that's very popular among expats.
Zapata Bar on Street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge is a stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.
Phnom Penh has a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from budget guesthouses (about US$5-20) through good quality mid-range hotels (US$20-50) to extravagant palaces (with extravagant prices to match).
Boeung Kak Lake, Phnom Penh
Low-cost backpacker accommodation is becoming more abundant by the week. Most is clustered either near the riverfront or at Boeung Kak Lake.
DV8 Guesthouse & Bar, #7 Street 148; tel. 012 620 441 / 012 776 885  is the legendary small boutique guesthouse located just off the riverfront; ground floor bar, second floor pool table. Rooms US$5-25.
King Guesthouse, 141th Street, off Sihanouk Avenue; tel. 012 220 512; has ample rooms available to suit your budget. Provides own daily bus service to and from Ho Chi Minh City.
Number Nine Guesthouse, #9 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake; tel. 012 766 225 / 012 935 813 - well known and popular. Excellent sunsets by the lake. Rooms US$2-4
Number Nine Sister Guesthouse, tel. 012 424 240 - just around the corner from, but not as nice as, the original.
Rory's Guesthouse, #33 Street 178 (facing the Royal Palace and National Museum and 100 meters from the riverfront) tel. 012 425 702  - rooms US$10-30.
Simon's Guesthouse, #11 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake, tel. 012 884 650. Tricky to find but the layout of the rooms (with bathrooms or shared) allows for a nice, cool breeze. Rooms US$2-3.
Top Banana Guesthouse, #2 Street 278  - A very laid back guesthouse with a cozy, sociable atmosphere and friendly staff. Rooms for as low as five dollars a night, and suprisingly good food.
Capitol 3 Guesthouse, #207Eo, Street 107, Sangkat Beng Prolit, 7 Makara, Phnom Penh; tel. 023 211 027. Next to the Capitol Tours office and a terrific value at US$4 per night. Warm, friendly staff and quick laundry service. Five floors of squeaky-clean rooms that are out of the direct sunlight and never seem to get too hot - no elevators, though.
California 2 Guesthouse, 317 Sisowath Quay (on the riverfront, close to Wat Ounalom)  has nice clean rooms with bathroom, air-con, 'fridge, TV. Laundry service. US$15-25 including breakfast.
Golden Gate Hotel, #9 Street 278, Sangkat Beng Keng Kang 1, Khan Chamkarmorn (near the Independence Monument) tel. +855 23 427618,  is a reliable place to stay with a range of hotel rooms, from US$15 for a single in the older block to US$40 or more for a suite in the new block. Clean, safe and comfortable. Great place for long-term stays, with discounted rates. Restaurants, shops and Internet cafés within walking distance.
Paragon Hotel, 219B Sisowath Quay. Riverfront, near lots of good cafés. Rooms have bathroom, air-con, tv, fridge. No breakfast, but close to restaurants that serve breakfast. US$15-30.
The Pavilion, 227, st 19 near the Royal Palace. Colonial building from 1920, lush garden, swimming pool, jacuzzi, free wi-fi, some rooms with private swimming pools. US$ 50-80.
There are a surprising number of 4 and 5 star hotels in Phnom Penh.
Intercontinental Hotel, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. A favourite among visiting dignitaries, but rather out of the way in the southwest corner of the city.
Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd (just south of the French Embassy). Newly renovated with very nicely appointed rooms and suites.
Raffles Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh (off Monivong Blvd), tel. +855 23 981 888, fax. +855 23 981 168, . Phnom Penh's grand old hotel, originally built in 1929 by the French, used as a dry fish store by the Khmer Rouge but given a loving redecoration by the Raffles group in 1999. Walking distance to Wat Phnom and the river, excellent service, wonderful attention to detail and the "Landmark" rooms in the old wing still use bathtubs and even light switches from 1929 (plus broadband Internet and walk-in showers). US$150/300 low/high season.
There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most are in the 1,500 riel/hour bracket (a little under 50 US cents), but provide slow service, suffer occasional power outages and do not run firewalls or anti-virus programs.
Sunny Internet, 178 Street (opp Foreign Correspondents Club), also Sisowath Quay (next to the Riverstreet restaurant). Provides a faster service at US$1/hour and is popular with tourists and expats.
Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets - most five-star hotels (which provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium), and a number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents Club, Fresco Café (under the FCC), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel).
Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. In the old days Phnom Penh was a rather dangerous place. Things have changed a lot but there are still more bad guys with guns than you might find in some other Asian cities. Official figures (almost certainly underestimates) report an average of 50 incidents per month (Cambodians and foreigners), leading to 5 deaths and 10 serious injuries. Most commonly Cambodians are victimised for their cell phones or motorbikes. Violent interactions with tourists are rare. Still, avoid walking at night, try to find a dependable moto driver and don't carry more than necessary. Bag-snatching by thieves on bikes is common so if you must carry a bag, try to keep it on the side facing away from the street. This is a particular problem outside popular ex-pat hang-outs (e.g. Elsewhere) on a weekend night. Some moto-dop drivers may be in league with the thieves. Moto drivers who work the riverside are generally quite reliable. In terms of personal safety the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is not getting robbed by hoods at gunpoint, but rather getting whacked by a motorbike in the chaotic traffic. Exercise common sense in your travels around the city and you should be alright.