Patan is a one of the largest cities in Nepal and is located just across the Bagmati river from Kathmandu. Confusingly, it is also known as Lalitpur, both names deriving from the Sanskrit "Lalitapattan". Like its larger neighbor, Patan also boasts a Durbar Square full of temples, statues, and palaces and, in addition, has the must-see attraction of Patan Museum. As a traditional center of handicrafts, Patan is a great place to purchase jewelry, Buddha statues and masks.
A view of Patan's Durbar Square.
- Micro Bus from Ratnapark in Kathmandu (12 rps, 8 rps for students/volunteers with a Nepalese ID card).
- Taxis are a more expensive option 200-350 rps (~3.00-5.00 usd).
- Buses - Catch a blue or green bus on Kathmandu's Ring Road (loops around Kathmandu Valley)for 15 to 20 rps. Tell the cashier/attendent that you want to go to Patan. He'll let you know when you get there. It's only a 15 min walk to Patan Dubar Square from Ring Road.
Note: Nepal Buses & Micro buses are not very good for handicapped people or the faint of heart. The people are very friendly, but the vehicles are very old & rough.
- The city and its sites are best seen on foot.
- Taxis, minibuses, and tuk tuks are widely available.
Durbar Square is the Palace Square of Patan. Approaching the square from the south end you have the palace on your right and a series of temples on your left. (Admission to the area for tourists is R200. You are trusted to pay this at a booth at the south end of Durbar Square or at another entrance to the area further to the north as there is no formal ticket control).
- The Palace was built on the site of a fort that stood until 1734 and served as the residence of the Malla rulers of the then Patan state. It is divided up into a succession of courtyards (or “chowks”). Unfortunately only the last of these on the right (which houses the museum) is open on a regular basis, due to problems with theft of artifacts. Try peering through cracks in the doors to see what you are missing! The first palace building is Sundari Chowk which was constructed in 1647. The three-storey temple on the palace side is the Degutale temple, constructed in 1661 after an earlier one burned down. Mul Chowk was the central part of the old palace and in recent times has suffered much theft of ornamental woodwork.
- The Museum is in Keshab Narayan Chowk. (Admission to the courtyard is free; entrance fee for the museum is R250. Hours 10.30 to 17.30). An excellent and well-presented little museum with descriptions of various artistic techniques.
There is a confusing array of temples and other interesting items on the left-hand side of the square. Again, walking from the south end of the square, you pass:
- Octagonal stone Krishna temple, constructed in 1647.
- A huge bell that dates back to 1737 and is still rung once a year.
- The Shankar Narayan temple, with kneeling stone elephants in front.
- The temple with a statue of Yognarendra on a pillar in front.
- Two smaller temples dedicated to Vishnu, dating back to 1590 and 1652.
- The oldest temple in the complex, dating back to 1566.
- A stone temple to Krishna, considered to be a masterpiece, with some amazing stonework. Note the Garuda on the pillar in front, which has eyes of crystal.
- The Vishwanath temple, with two stone elephants and riders in front.
- The Bhimsen temple, constructed in 1680 but with more recent marble additions.
A view of the stone Krishna Temple with Garuda to the right.
South of Durbar Square
- Mahaboudha Temple, (5-10 minutes walking distance from Durbar Square). This is a a stone temple covered with terracotta tiles, which include 1008 Budha images. It was modelled on a larger temple in Bodhgaya, India and took one family four generations to complete
- Rudravarna Mahavihar (also known as Uku Bahal). A gem of a temple close to Mahaboudha, but much less visited. One of the oldest temples in the Kathmandu Valley with some strange and interesting statues.
- Machchhendranath temple. This is a good illustration of the problems now faced with theft of artifacts. The temple is now surrounded by a strong fence and each statue has its own individual fence. Statues are missing from two stands, suggesting that the temple has already fallen victim. Machchhendranath also gives his name to an annual festival when a 25 meter tall "chariot" is paraded through Patan. If you note all the wires and cables across the streets at levels much lower than 25m. you can realise what a complicated exercise this is. The parade takes place between April and June, with the chariot staying the night at different locations. The end of the parade is supposed to coincide with the onset of the monsoon rains. The wheels of the chariot are over 2m in diameter. For the rest of the year these can be seen in the building next to the Ashok Stupa (see below).
North of Durbar Square
A view of the Golden Temple in Patan.
- Golden Temple (Hiranayavarna Makavikar). An enormous number of gold- and silver-covered decorations and some excellent bronze statues make this well worth being the only temple in Patan you have to pay to enter. Construction goes back to the early 1400s, although some pieces pre-date construction. Admission Rs 50.
- Kumbheshwar Temple. One of the two five-story pagoda temples of the Valley. The sunken basin is usually empty but around August is filled for the Kumbheshwar Mela full moon day festival. At this time the temple becomes packed. Sheep roaming the temple are those that have been spared sacrifice.
- Ashok Stupa. Old Patan can be reached by turning left off the main road from Kathmandu after the Himalaya hotel or by continuing on the main road to Pulchowk and then turning left. Immediately after the pedestrian bridge at Pulchowk is the old Buddhist stupa of Ashok. Next to that is the building where the structure of the Machchhendranath chariot is kept when not being used,
Just wander around keeping your eyes open for all the amazing sights!
- Wooden and Metal Handicrafts. There are many metalworking shops near the Durbar Square.
- Traditional Paintings (Thanka)
- Books. Pilgrims Books on the right-hand side of Sahid Sukra Marg as it climbs the hill after crossing the Bagmati river (opposite the Himalaya Hotel) has an amazing selection of books on Nepal and Kathmandu, on Buddhism, Hinduism and many other religions, as well as a good selection of novels in English. Several small rooms of souvenirs too. Search out the oddities, such as a Kama Sutra colouring book, strangely sold next to children's colouring books!
- Books. Saraswati, further up the road from Pilgrims, has more academic books. Ekta, turn left in Jawalakhel chowk, has academic text books, and a good selection of novels.
- Quixote's Cove: the bookshop, Jawalakhel, Tel: 553-6974 . Located next to New Orleans Cafe in Jawalakhel, this bookshop is housed in an old 1930s building and combines a great collection of fiction with a marvelously cosy environment.
- Roadhouse, (Near St.Mary's school). Good pizza, pasta, dessert, ice-cream and coffee.
- New Orleans (The road towards St. Marys). Good coffee, nice garden, live jazz some nights
- Red Dingo, (Near Standard Charter Bank, Jawalakhel). Good western (Australian) food
- Lazy Gringo, (Jawalakhel chowk). Food from the American South-West
- Masala, (The road towards St.Mary's school). One of the best Indian restaurants in Kathmandu
- JaZoo, (Next to NTC-building). Inexpensive Nepali and Chinese food
- Chinatown, (2. floor, next to Stand.Chart.bank, Jawalakhel). Good Chinese food
- Jalan, (Near Summit). Good Thai, and other Asian food
- The Bakery Cafe, (opposite the United Nations building and also in Jawalakhel chowk). Use sign language and point to menu items here as the waiters suffer speaking and hearing impairments. Noodles, MoMo, sandwiches and, on most days, a lunchtime buffet.WiFi.
- Cafe Bliss, Jhamsikhel. Trendy, peaceful restaurant
- Cafe Vespers, Pulchowk (next to New Orleans Cafe). Lovely outdoor seating. Good Pad Thai. Very good pizzas and quite good italian food.
- Higher Ground, (1. floor across the street from Stand.Chart.bank). Peaceful Cafe. Check out second branch in Ekantakuna (near DFID), which sells excellent brown bread and carrot cakes.
- Manny's Eatery & Tapas Bar - good food and ambience. Located inside the "Shaligram Village" in Jawalakhel.
- There's a popular street in Jhamsikhel past the fire brigade which is host to numerous restaurants, popular with expatriats and locals alike. It's informally known as "Jhamel", a take on the more touristy Thamel, but much more chilled out.
- Café Swotha, Swotha Square (North of Durbar Sq, on Swotha Square- From Patan Dhoka, always straight until reaching Swotha Sq. The Café is in front.), ☎ 555 11 84. From far the best place to get tasty and fresh food around. Managed by an energic young french lady, Café Swotha (the café of Traditional Homes-Swotha, boutique B&B) propose a short menu + a revolving blackboard menu that varies everyday according to the season, the local market and the chef's inspiration. Between other things: vegetable Quiches, Quiche Lorraine, home-made pasta and gnocchis, organic salads, panneer and beef burger, grand'ma soups, lasagna. For dessert, they are known to make the best cheese cake in town! 250 rps-800 Rps. (27.674459,85.325770)
There's plenty of choices to have a good drink now in Patan. The popular Jhamsikhel and Jawalakhel areas house good bars with good music.
- Absolute Bar, (Next to Namaste supermarket). One of the best bars in Kathmandu
- Manny's Eatery & Tapas Bar. Located in Jawalakhel in side the "Shaligram Village".
While most tourists stay in hotels in Kathmandu city centre when in the Valley, mainly concentrated in the tourist catchment area of Thamel and it's vicinity, Patan which is just 4km from Thamel is fast becoming an area of preference for those in the know looking for more space and less chaos. Many of the expatriate communities live in the Patan area as the INGO's like the UN, DFID, GTZ are located there. The Swiss and Norwegian Embassies are also located in Patan.
- Cafe de Patan, Patan Durbar Square, Mahapal Mangal Bazaar, Tel:537599, 530208, . A centrally located guesthouse in a traditional Newari house. There are great views over the temples of Durbar square, and the dining room is a very pleasant area of foliage blended with stylish Newari decor. Standard (common bath room) - Single: 700Rs, Double: 900Rs. Deluxe (attached bathroom) - Single: 900Rs. Double 1200Rs.
- Newa Chěn, Kulimha, Kobahal – 9, Patan, . The "Newa Chén" is a well-preserved and restored example of a traditional Newari house in the Kathmandu Valley. Located at Kulimha tole, North of Patan’s Durbar Square, it is built of brick and timber in traditional Malla style around a central courtyard. $20-30 single.
- Sanu's House, Gwarko, Patan, Kathmandu, Nepal (Across Ring Road from the B&B hospital, then 50 meters North-NE), ☎ Tel: 9841485045. Large 5 story house run by friendly/caring Nepali Buddhist family. 15 min walk to Patan Durbar Square. 50 meter walk to bus stop/taxis. 24hr WiFi. Great views from roof & upper floors. Budget singles: 375 nrp (5.25 US) per person, per night includes breakfast. Organic veggie lunch or dinner (100 rupees). http://www.homestaynepal.com
- Traditional Homes-SWOTHA, (Swotha square, 50 meters away North of Patan Durbar Square, opposite to Narayan temple), ☎ +977 1 555 11 84, . A beautifully restored Newari House in the heart of Patan's medieval city centre, with its palace complex, lavish temples, and bustling bazaar. Traditional Homes-SWOTHA has 5 spacious and comfortable rooms with attached bathroom and a beautiful attic suite. Most of the rooms have their private balconies. Upstairs, there is a sunny roof terrace that offers a panoramic view of Patan’s pagoda-strewn roofscape, and beyond it a glimpse of the Himalaya. The staff is nice, the wifi is free and the breakfast is delicious $60-$100.
- Greenwich Village Hotel, (close to the Summit hotel. Taxis may not know either so check before starting your journey.), . A quiet, comfortable NGO-type hotel. Ten minutes walk to main road and 30 mins+ to Durbar Square.
- Himalaya Hotel, (on left-hand side of main road going up the hill to Patan), . is a four star hotel with swimming pool and several other facilities. Mainly Indian and United Nations clientele. Food disappointing. $70-100. Prices quoted on website are ridiculous and can be negotiated.
- Summit Hotel, (to the right of the main road after crossing the Bagmati on the hill in a residential area), . Nice location, good food. Garden wing has small rooms, but the other rooms are good. $20-80 single.
- Shaligram Hotel & Apartments. Directions - past the national zoo on the right hand side before the Embassy of Switzerland. url:http://www.shaligramhotel.com/". Lovely for short or long stays. The Manny's Eatery and Tapas Bar is housed inside and so is the Nirvana Wellness Centre.
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