Detail of the Palais Garnier
The 9th arrondissement of Paris is a diverse, "in between" section of the French capital. The Grands Boulevards area of shopping throughfares and flagship department stores (as well as the original Opera - hence the common name for the district) is to be found in the southern part of the arrondissement (shared with the 2nd and the 8th). By way of contrast, the fading red-light and cheap shopping district of Pigalle is located in the north of the 9th, closely adjoining Montmartre on the hill above in the 18th. In between the two, relatively-speaking, lies a traveller's no-man's-land / terra incognita - though the streets around St Lazare used to be the Impressionists stronghold in Paris.
Major stations are: Opéra (3, 7, 8), Chausette d'Antin La Fayette (7, 9), and Grands Boulevards (8, 9).
As with the other 19 arrondissements of Paris there are a lot of little commemorative plaques scattered around on the houses of the 9th. One example is the site of the first public demonstration of the Lumiere brother's moving picture projection system which is marked by a pair of commemorative plaques at number 14, Bd. des Capucines between rue Scribe and rue Edward VIII.
- Opéra Garnier, place de l'Opéra, . open 10 AM to 4:30 PM daily. The magnificent setting for The Phantom of the Opera, the inside is as opulent as the outside. However, since the opening of the Opera Bastille (12th) in 1989, the Palais Garnier has been reserved mostly for dance performances, particularly ballet. Entry 7€. The cheapest seats for actual performances can go as low as 6€ if you book early..
- Musée Grévin, 10 Boulevard Montmartre, ☎ +33 1 47 70 85 05, . This is a wax museum, primarily of interest to older children.
Museums and Galleries
- Musée Gustave Moreau, 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld (Métro: Trinité), ☎ +33 1 48 74 38 50 (fax: +33 1 48 74 18 71), . Open Wed - Mon 10AM to 12.45PM and 2PM - 5.15PM. The house of the Symbolist painter has now become a museum to his life and work Admission €4 (some reductions on offer).
- Musée Grévin. The Musée Grévin is a waxwork museum in Paris located on the Grands Boulevards on the right bank of the Seine with some 500 characters arranged in scenes from the history of France and modern life.
Admire the skyline from the roofs of Printemps or the Galeries Lafayette. There's also a hot air balloon at Parc André Citroën (south-western Paris). It doesn't operate on windy days, though.
- les Grands Boulevards. Go shopping at the grands magasins (department stores).
- Olympia Hall, 28, boulevard des Capucines, . Concerts for an older crowd. Be sure to tip the usher €2 or so.
Particularly interesting in this area are the covered passageways built in the 19th Century: charming early versions of the shopping mall. There are several in the vicinity of boulevard Haussmann and rue Vivienne, including passage Jouffroy and passage Verdeau, and across the boulevard Haussmann in the 2nd arrondissement , the passage des Panoramas.
The department stores along the boulevard Haussmann are overpriced compared to smaller specialty shops. For a more interesting selection and better quality-price ratio, venture out to the innumerable shopping streets in Paris. Make sure to say bonjour on entering and merci, au revoir on leaving. For more information on common courtesy in Paris, see the main Paris article.
- Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd. Haussmann, . The gourmet section is a Paris institution that takes up an entire floor, featuring (among many other things) several competing vendors of deluxe baguettes, a few hundred types of cheese and an entire aisle devoted to mustard. Depending on your home country you may be eligible for a 10% discount for all goods (you just need to show a flyer that is attached to tourist office Paris maps).
- Printemps, 64 blvd Haussmann, .
If you're in the southern part of the neighborhood, you might also consider arrondissements 2 or 8 - neither are more than a short walking distance. You could also visit the food section of any of the grands magasins, or one of the smaller traiteurs (shops selling prepared food), and pick up the ingredients for a piquenique in the square Louis XVI on boulevard Haussmann and rue Pasquier; square de la Trinité, at the top of rue de la chaussée d'Antan--free concerts in the church at 12:30 most Thursdays; or the square du Montholon on rue de la Fayette between rue Cadet and rue du faubourg Poissonière. Otherwise, here are some good eating options:
- Chartier, 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, (Métro: Grand Boulevard), ☎ +33 1 47 70 86 29, . Since 1896. Menu changes daily, historic building. Nice and cheap food. Plain cooking; don't expect haute cuisine.
- Pizza Marzano (Pizza Express), 30 Boulevard des Italiens (Métro: Opéra), ☎ +33 1 47 70 33 33. open daily 11.30 am - midnight. UK travellers will be familiar with the above-average pizza / pasta menu, speedy table service and very reasonable prices. This outlet has a large al fresco area for the warmer months.
Map of the 9th Arrondissement
- Pizza Marzano Clichy, 10 Bis Place de Clichy, ☎ +33 1 40 16 52 30. open daily 11 am - 1 am. On the site of an old Paris restaurant, La Champagne, this second "Pizza Express" outlet (they're both in the 9th) is located close to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre
- Au Relais, 7 rue Cadet, ☎ +33 1 45 23 25 22. Downstairs is the local bar with a few tables; most patrons know the two women behind the bar by name. Upstairs is a low-ceilinged dining room. On weekdays they have a 12-euro lunch menu for two courses and a small pitcher of wine. The food is traditional and very good. 12 to 20 Euros.
- Le Roi du Pot-au-Feu, 34, Rue Vignon (Métro: Madeleine or Havre-Caumartin), ☎ +33 1 47 42 37 10. The menu is very short, but the meals are big and good. The best Pot-au-Feu in the world. Very nice, typical Parisian atmosphere. Complete meal + beverage for approx. 35 €.
- Le Café Zéphyr, 12 bd Montmartre (Métro Grands Boulevards), ☎ +33 1 47 70 80 14. A typical brasserie with a fine choice of simple food (salads, etc.).
- I Golosi, 6 rue Grange Batelière (Métro Grands Boulevards), ☎ +33 1 48 24 18 63. In a quiet side street, a good Italian wine bar and shop where you can buy the wines you will have tasted.
- Hotel de Lille, 2 rue du Montholon (Métro: Poissonière), ☎ +33 1 47 70 38 76 (fax: +33 1 48 00 04 55). Hotel de Lille is a cheap, family-run fairly spartan yet charming hotel in the centre of Paris, near the Gare du Nord. The area around this train station, worked by street prostitutes, is not very pleasant at night.
- Perfect Hotel & Hostel, 39 rue Rodier (Métro: Anvers), ☎ +33 1 42 81 18 86 (fax: +33 1 42 85 01 38), . The Perfect advertises bargain rates for backpackers and families.
- Hotel La Tour d'Auvergne, 10, rue de la Tour d'Auvergne (Metro: Anvers, Poissonnière, Cadet), ☎ +33 1 48 78 61 60, . Hotel de la Tour d’Auvergne is a charming house in a street full of surprises. A few steps away from Montmartre, rue des Martyrs, Opéra, and avenue Trudaine. This is a district where you can find authentic places, good restaurants, small cafés and bistros, nice shops and true Parisian atmosphere.
- Hotel Gotty Opera, 11, rue de Trevise (Metro: Grands Boulevards, Cadet), ☎ +33 1 47 70 12 90, . A three-star, just a stone's throw from Folies Bergere in a quiet street, yet close to bistros, supermarkets and in walking distance to major attractions.
- Hotel Langlois (Hotel des Croisés), 63, rue Sant-Lazare (Metro: Porte de la Chapelle), ☎ +33 1 48 74 78 24, . The service is impeccable, and the rooms are gorgeous. The plumbing is also first rate, by any standards. They service a decent breakfast in the morning, but there are also a boulangerie and a bar just down the street.
- Paris Hotel, 23, Rue Henri Monnier (Metro: Pigalle or Saint Georges (both 400m away)), ☎ +33 1 42 85 43 43. This is a nice 3 star, situated near Pigalle. The rooms are of decent quality and the views of the street are charming and typically Parisian (lots of Balcony's and Shutters at the front, and a pleasant garden view at the back.) There's free Wi-Fi in the rooms and a nice breakfast room. The street can get a little noisy at night, but that's typical of the area and probably not enough to keep you awake but you should be aware in cae you happen to be a light sleeper. There is a Renault parking garage round the corner which charged €52 for 72 hours. A good choice if you're after a reasonably quiet clean hotel at a modest rate. A double room with a shower is €85 per night..
- Hotel Jules, 49-51 rue La Fayette, 75009 Paris, France (close to Metro station Le Palletier), ☎ +33 1 42 85 05 44 ([email protected]), . checkin: 1PM; checkout: 11AM. 3 Star hotel located between two bohemian Parisian districts - Gare Saint Lazare and Gare de Nords. Close to Garnier Opera House.
- Hôtel Scribe, 1, rue Scribe, ☎ +33 1 44 71 24 24. Crown jewel in the Sofitel chain, this elegantly redecorated 4 star hotel hasn't lost any of its charm since it was first opened in 1895. All rooms are sound proofed and come with wifi access. The apartments have a separate entrance and they can provide you with a nanny if needed.
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