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Difference between revisions of "Paris/18th arrondissement"

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Revision as of 13:39, 26 September 2012

The 18th arrondissement [1] of Paris is probably best known for the hill of Montmartre which was the centre of the Communard uprising of the late nineteenth century, but is also perhaps better known as the centre of the flourishing artist community of the period from around 1907 to 1914. Picasso, Dali, Duchamp, Toulouse-Lautrec, and others from the vibrant early modern period lived and worked here until driven out either by political considerations during the First World War or rising property values thereafter. The 18th is also the home of a thriving ethnic community in the east and *was* a sort of a red-light district along Boulevard de Clichy near Place Pigalle.

Sacre Coeur

Contents

Get in

Many of the hotels of the 18th are within walking distance of Gare du Nord, so if you are arriving from Britain, Belgium, or the Netherlands, consider walking or taking a cab should you arrive at night or with baggage.

By Métro

From other parts of Paris, your best bet is to arrive by Métro. The 18th is primarily served by the Métro 4 and 12 lines from the centre of town, or the 2 from the east and west.

Stations of note

  • Abbesses The station is fairly high up the slope of the hill, and the line is fairly deep underground, so getting up and down is part of the fun either in a seven-story spiral staircase decorated from top to bottom with murals by local amateur painters, or in one of two high-capacity modern elevators. If you have time and good knees the choice is clear.

Lines

Line 2 stops at stations from west to east: Place de Clichy, Blanche, Pigalle, Anvers, and Barbès-Rochechouart.

Line 4 has stops at stations from south to north: Barbès-Rochechouart and Chateau Rouge.

Line 12 has stop at stations from south to north: Pigalle, Abbesses

See

Landmarks

  • Sacré-Cœur (La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre), (Place de Parvis du Sacré Coeur / rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barrre, ''Métro: Abbesses / Anvers'',), [2]. Open daily 6AM - 11PM. This wedding cake-white church rises visibly above the northern parts of Paris. The striking building, with its towers and white onion dome (83 m high), was built in the years between 1875 and 1914 on the birthplace of La Commune, officially as an act of penitence for the sins committed during the civil war in which thousands of Communards were executed, as well as for the bloodshed of the 1870-1871 Franco-Prussian war which followed. A number of prominent businessmen put up the money, and a dizzying combination of architects worked to put together the mock Romano-Byzantine extravaganza. Consecration followed in 1919. The view over Paris from the dome and from the square before it (200 m above sea level) is unsurpassed, apart from that enjoyed at the Eiffel Tower (50 km on a clear day). For the athletic traveller there are stairs from several directions to the top of the hill; otherwise there is also a funicular which runs every few minutes during the daytime from Place St. Pierre. Follow the signs that say "Funiculaire De Montmartre" (more info ). Beware that the guards don't like it if they catch you taking pictures inside and will even yell "No photo!" and chase you down if they see you with a camera. *Be warned: along the lower steps leading up to church, groups of mostly young men gather and reach toward you with a small string, offering to loop it round your finger. Attempts to brush them off will often be met by claims of "No, this is for the church." They will then demand money for the bracelet they make for you, offering it "at a discount" of up to €20. Admission charge; located at the summit of the hill.
  • Cimetière de Montmartre (Montmartre Cemetery), rue de la Barrière Blanch (Métro: Place de Clichy). There are a number of famous occupants, but the real reason to visit this cemetery is to see the ornate tombstones, sculptures, and other sometimes macabre, sometimes touching memorials Parisians have left here for their dead.
  • Le Moulin Rouge, Pl. Blanche (Métro: Blanche), [3]. With two shows a night, this turn-of-the-20th century burlesque palace offers a big production choreographed dance show interspersed with comedians, jugglers, and magicians. The show is more than bilingual, actually playing up the U.S. 4th infantry's involvement in the libération for the sake of the large number of Americans in the audience. If you want to spend more you can have dinner there. It's not cheap: the 9PM show costs €95 and the 11PM show costs 89..
  • Place Pigalle. On the border with the 9th, The sleaze of Blvd. de Clichy between Pl. Pigalle and Pl. Blanche can provide a moment of distraction. Be warned if you are male it is better to do this in the company of a female fellow traveller, as the clubs often send the girls outside to attempt to physically drag passing men off of the street. These strip clubs are big ripoffs. They tempt you with a free drink for €10 entry; once in the girl who starts dancing orders a couple of drinks (Red Bull) and then before you realise you are presented with a bill ranging from €500 to €700 . They have these big bouncers who threaten/manhandle you till you arrive at some settlement with them. The whole of Pigalle is a rip off. PLEASE AVOID. The police know about these places but nothing is done. AVOID PIGALLE CLUBS.
  • Artists' Square, place du Tertre. Numerous artists paint portraits of tourists and also sell their paintings.
Map of the 18th Arrondissement

Museums and galleries

  • Espace Dali, 11 rue Poulbot (place du Tertre) (Métro: Anvers, Abbesses, Bus 54, 80, Montmartrobus, Funiculaire - depart from métro Anvers), +33 1 42 64 40 10 (fax: +33 1 42 64 93 17), [4]. Sep-Jun: 10AM-6PM daily; Jul-Aug: 10PM-8PM daily. Guided tours 3PM. A fantastic and undeservedly little-known collection of the great Surrealist artist's often overlooked sculptural works. Those travelers seeking a more authentic experience should be warned that the majority of works here are reproductions, and that this "museum" is more appropriately considered as a for-profit, tourist-oriented homage to the artist rather than a carefully curated collection of original work. To find it, head up to Sacré-Cœur and stand facing it and take a left. Keep your eye out for small Dali signs. Admission €11 adults, €7 seniors 60+, €6 children and students under 26, free for children under 8.

Do

  • Cooking with Class (13), 21 rue custine, [5]. Cooking Class. Hands on French Cooking Classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including; Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre.
  • Môm'artre, 44 rue Joseph de Maistre, +33 1 42 28 82 27, [6]. An arts center intended primarily for kids (Môme means kid) the Môm'artre features workshops for kids and adults, hosted by neighborhood artists.

Buy

  • Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Clignancourt Flea Market), Porte de Clignancourt (Métro: Porte de Clignancourt), [7]. open 7AM - 7PM, Sa, Su, Mo. Widely-acclaimed as the largest flea market in all of Europe, in existence since 1885, this sprawling bazaar is made up of both permanent stalls and temporary stands (over 2,000 of them!), arranged in winding, sometimes chaotic arcades, over 10 miles of walkways, and over 10 differently-themed sub-markets. Everything from fine antiques through to collectible kitsch and brig-a-brac. Big on retro fashion also. Very popular with tourists, making it more difficult here to find a real bargain - but it's always worth looking! Convenient, competitive shipping is available at the market to send your precious finds back home all over the world. Be prepared to bargain!
  • Ouistitipop, 19 rue Ramey (Métro: Chateau Rouge), +33 1 42 58 03 54, [8]. Tu-Sa 10AM to 6PM. New and used kids' clothing, toys, strollers and furniture. They take consignments too.
  • Thibault van der Straete, 30, rue Durantin, 01 42 54 83 32. Clothing boutique featuring designs made of the rare and luxurious alpaca wool. His soft and sumptuous mens and womens designs are a favourite of those who are enchanted with ethno-chic.
  • Spree, 16, rue La Vieuville, 18th, 01 42 23 41 40. Hip and trendy bazaar that features designs and clothes from all around the world. Its large space also hold artist exhibitions.

Eat

Be ready for some climbing in the 18th

Budget

  • Nawab, 174, rue Ordener (Métro: Guy Môquet), +33 1-46-27-85-28, [9]. every day from noon to 2PM and 7PM to 11PM. This Indian and Pakistani restaurant is usually packed especially for lunch so be sure to call ahead and reserve a table. One of the reasons is that if you ask them to spice it up "like in Pakistan" they actually will. €15.
  • Le Surcouf, 36, Avenue de Saint Ouen (Metro: La Fourche), +33 1-46-27-11-85. Very ordinary non-touristy cafe run by family from the Maghreb. "French" food is pricey for what you get, but the couscous dishes are huge, cheap and delicious with a home-cooked feel to them. There's a dog hanging around the bar, very friendly beast, but avoid if allergic or easily scared. €10.

Mid-range

  • le Square Marcadet
  • La Petaudiere, rue Poulbot. Piano bar on rue Poulbot - tasty food, nice ambience and excellent good piano music (prepare some coins for the pianist).
  • Le Buffet, 18 Rue des Trois Freres. unpredictable. Tasty, homey French food. It's a family place, I think. Lunch menu is around €12 (can be had until 8PM), dinner one is 17.
  • Au Grain de Folie, 24 Rue de la Vieuville, +33 1 42 58 15 57. unpredictable. A one-woman operation with some mixed reviews, but apparently when she gets it right it's just about the best dining experience you'll ever have. Booking ahead by 24 hours is suggested.
  • La Taverne de Montmartre, 25 rue Gabrielle, 75018, +33 1 46 06 88 48. Small restaurant with a nice rustic decoration, just bellow the artist's square, place du Tertre. Relaxing place, not overloaded with tourists. Excellent foundue offered by €17 per person (as of October '08), including a salami salad for starters.
  • Le Refuge des Fondues, 17 rue des Trois Frères, 75018, +33 1 42 55 22 65. Fondue restaurant for the young people: menu for €17, including wine served in a baby bottle, appetizers, the foundue itself (cheese or meat), and dessert.
  • Cafe des Deux Moulins, 15 rue Lepic, 75018. A popular destination for those who love the film Le fabuleaux destin d'Amelie Poulain, yet some locals still come here. Interior preserves the movie set. Great for lunch.

Splurge

  • Le Basilic, 33 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, +33 01 46 06 78 43 (fax: +33 01 46 06 39 26), [10]. Very nice atmosphere and service. Great food, and good selection of wines. Starters €7-11€, main courses €15-26€.

Drink

  • Truc Café, 58, rue de Poteau, 101 42 52 64 09. A classic French wine bistro filled with young trendy singles.
  • Just BE, 46 rue Caulaincourt (Métro: Abesses), +33 1 42 55 92 42, [11]. A trendy little bistro with a nice enclosed terrace, the Just BE (named for owners Brigette and Elsa) is a nice place to settle in for a couple of hours to watch people pass by on the lovely tree-lined rue Caulaincourt.
  • Olympic Café, 20 rue Léon (Métro: Chateau Rouge), +33 1 42 52 42 63, [12]. Run as part of the Laboratoire Multi-culturel populaire the Olympic Café is one of the few places in Paris where you can reliably find avant-garde jazz, making it at least spiritually a descendant of the club where the Art Ensemble of Chicago were resident for 5 years or so in the early '70s. In addition to jazz they book music from around the world especially Africa and the Caribbean.
  • Le Divan du Monde, 75 rue des Martyrs (Métro: Pigalle), +33 1 42 52 02 46, [13]. A fairly major venue for indi-rock, hip-hop, and other concerts. The prices are usually pretty good and the size of the venue and decor are great.
  • La Boule Noire, 120 Boulevard Rochechouart (Métro: Pigaille), +33 1 49 25 81 75‎, [14]. A small venue which is decorated to resemble a 20s speakeasy but which none-the-less has hosted a range of musicians from local singers to major arena acts.

Sleep

Budget

  • Hôtel Bonséjour, 11 rue Burq (Metro: Abbesses or Blanche), +33 1 42 54 22 53, [15]. checkout: noon. The hands-down winner in value for price at the low end, the Bonséjour offers 34 spartan but immaculately cleaned rooms on 5 floors. Internet terminals and wifi available. Singles with no shower start at €33, or €66 with a shower. The shared shower downstairs costs €2..
  • Plug-Inn Hostel, 7 rue Aristide Bruant (Métro: Blanche), +33 1 42 58 42 58, [16]. A small and inexpensive but clean and well-located hostel. Free wifi, but the signal is weak in the rooms. Free breakfast.
  • Hotel Sofia, 21 rue de Sofia (Metro: Barbès-Rochechouart), +33 1 42 64 55 37 (, fax: +33 1 46 06 33 30), [17]. checkin: 14:00; checkout: 11:00. The rooms are simple, but look comfortable enough, and the street seems to be a quiet one for Montmartre. As a little bonus, all of the rooms have a shower. Free WiFi internet available. Singles start at €50, plus €3 if you want to watch TV, but you're in Paris, so why would you do that? Breakfast is €7.

Mid-range

  • Adagio Paris Montmartre, Place du Théatre de l’Atelier, +33 1 58 21 55 84, [18]. This "Aparthotel" opens out onto a peaceful interior garden.
  • Hotel des Arts, 5, rue Tholozé (Métro: Blanche), +33 1 46 06 30 52. Consistently getting the highest possible reviews in it's price-range, this well-located hotel was entirely renovated since 2000. The rooms upstairs are said to have fantastic views, but at least one reviewer online warns of being bumped because of over-booking. Singles start at €75..
  • Le Chat Noir, 68 Boulevard De Clichy, +33 1 42 64 15 26, [19]. This former cabaret and now boutique hotel combines the bohemian spirit of Montmartre with a modern and cool aesthetic.
  • Hotel Damremont, 110, rue Damremont 75018 Paris, +33 (0)1 42 64 25 75, [20]. Located close to Butte Montmartre in a quiet residential quarter. From €89..
  • Hotel Eden Montmartre, 90, rue Ordener (Métro: Jules Joffrin), +33 1 42 64 61 63. A basic, but nice two-star, the Eden is on the far side of the hill of Montmartre from the city, and that can be a good thing if you are looking for a more authentic view of Parisiene life. Singles start at €85..
  • Ibis Montmartre, 1 rue Caulaincourt (Métro: Place de Clichy), +33 1 55 30 18 18, [21]. The rooms are a little small, but this offering of the Ibis chain is up to the usual high standard of cleanliness and service. Of course if you need a tooth brush you can find it in the vending machine downstairs. Reception is staffed around the clock for late arrivals. Ibis always prices their offering a few Euro cheaper than the cheapest independent two-star in the area, in this case €72 for a single..
  • Timhotel Montmartre, 11, rue Ravignan (Metro: Abesses), +33 1 42 55 74 79, [22]. This cute, very well kept two-star is closer to a three-star in quality and price, it's just that the rooms are on the small side. Some of the rooms in the upper floors have fantastic views of the city. Singles start at €130..

Splurge

side street
  • Kube Hotel, 1-5 Passage Ruelle Paris, +33(0)1 42 05 2000, [23]. One of the most stylish and atmospheric hotels in all of hotels, the Kube hotel exudes a high tech and luxurious decor. All the rooms come equipped with individual air-conditioning, digital door opening, multifunction computer (DVD, CD, TV screen), cable TV, ADSL Internet connection, deposit box, mini bar, and fully equipped bathroom. As its name might suggest, the rooms feature some sort of cubism design and even the bedside tables look like ice cubes. Go out at night in your very own hotel, with a DJ spinning in the bar nightly, as well as being Paris's first ever ice bar. (48.8864905440121,2.3588204383850097)
  • Terrass Hotel, 12 rue Joseph-de-Maistre (Metro: Place de Clichy), +33 1.46.06.72.85 (, fax: +33 1.44.92.34.30), [24]. Excellent four star hotel in Montmartre with 98 rooms, en-suite bathrooms, air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, good restaurant, business facilities. The roof-top restaurant with fantastic views of Paris is open May to September. €280-410. (48.88661,2.33284)

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